
^ .0 



O N <■ 



OHO' .V ^ **'••* ^^ ^ 










<^. 'o» 






■^ 

-^^ 

•■i^ 























'O • A 





-^0^ 








••'- a'^ 










.V 



^>'. .V -^jm^^r^. ^/. ^^ 



"oK 



vO^_, 




VAO^ 








V'<;^ 








•^0* 







u» \>* 








V* ^'^Z' <^ aP 




^^^ 











AN ARMY OFFICER ON 
LEAVE IN JAPAN 



/T 




N 

Q 

< 

w 

w 

o 

a: 

I 

< 

W 
W 

S 

O 
a: 



AN ARMY OFFICER ON 
LEAVE IN JAPAN 



INCLUDING A SKETCH OF MANILA AND ENVIRONMENT. PHILIPPINE 

INSURRECTION OF 1896-7. DEWEY'S BATTLE OF MANILA BAY 

AND A DESCRIPTION OF FORMOSA 



/ 



BY 



K MERVIN MAUS 

COLONEL UNITED STATES ARMY 



ILLUSTRATED 




CHICAGO 
A. C. McCLURG & CO. 
1911 



^*. 



%^' 
tr 



Copyright 

A. C. McCLURG & CO. 

1911 



Published October, 1911 



Entered at Stationers' Hall, London, England 



PRESS OF THE VAIL COMPANY 
COSHOCTON; U. S. A. 

©CI.A297705 



TO THE MEMORY 
OF MY BELOVED MOTHER AND FATHER 

MARY MALVINA GREER and ISAAC RHODES MAUS 

THIS BOOK IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED 



CONTENTS 

CHAPTER I 

PAGE 

Feom San Francisco to Manila 1 

The lobby of the Palace Hotel — Despatch from Washington 
— Across the lonesome Pacifio — Arrival in Manila — Its 
commercial activity and advantages — Drive through the 
busy Metropolis — Quaint scenes on the street — Our little 
brown brother and wild cousin from the mountains — Ar- 
rival at the Club and introduction to the Major and the 
Judge — TiflSn and the piece-de-resistance. 

CHAPTER II 

COMMEBCIAL OpPOBTUNITIES IN THE PHILIPPINES 8 

The Civil Governor and Commission — An exemplary colo- 
nial government — The wealth of the Islands — Need of 
Capital and Labor — The early site of Manila — The Army 
and Navy Club — The climate of the Philippines — The 
sights of the Walled City — Church of Saint Augustine — 
The Palace of the Archbishop and the Cathedral — College 
of Santo Tomas — Santiago and its dungeon cells — The 
Malecon Driveway and Luneta — The execution of Rizal. 

CHAPTER III 

Rambles Through Old Manila 20 

The new City Hall and Columbian Road — The First Re- 
serve Hospital — Insular Printing Press — Botanical Gar- 
den — Government Refrigerating Plant — Secret Society of 
Santa Cruz — The Shopping District — Bilibid Prison — 
San Lazaro and the lepers — Andres Bonifacio and the Kati- 
punan — Sanitation of Manila — The Governor's Palace — 
The living Cemetery of Pandacan — A modern Joan of Arc. 

CHAPTER IV 

Farewell to Manila 30 

The arrival and departure of the monthly transport — Re- 
turn to the homeland — The Army transport service — State 
Galleons or Naos de Acapulco — The military order of the 

vii 



viii CONTENTS 

PAGE 

Carabao — The farewell wallow — Song to the Carabao — 
The government Dougherty and army mule — The sick pas- 
senger — Farewell to Manila. 

CHAPTER V 

The PiCTimESQUE Environment of Manila Bat and the Na- 
tive Insurrection of 1896-7 40 

The Bay of Manila — The Church of La Loma — Shrine at 
Antipolo — Our Lady of Good Voyage and Peace — Her voy- 
ages to Mexico — Mount Arayat — Alejandrino and the 
Golden Bait — The Insurrection of 1896 — Emilio Aguinaldo 

— Polavieja, Blanco, and Rivera — Nozaleda, the Blood- 
thirsty — Iniquitous land laws — Battle of Imus — Capture 
of the town and death of the Friars — Treaty of Biac-nabato. 

CHAPTER VI 

Dewey's Fight With Montojo, and the Sail Down the Bay 
TO Mariveles 50 

The battle on Manila Bay — The episode between Dewey and 
the German Admiral — English officer's reply to German 
Admiral — The composition of the Spanish fleet — The Amer- 
ican fleet — The first broadside — Dewey's retirement from 
the line of battle and return — The loss of the Spanish trans- 
port Mindanao — Tlie Spanish and American casualties — 
The Island of Corregidor and the village harpists — The loss 
of the Hooker — Arrival at Mariveles. 

CHAPTER VII 

Legend of Mariveles — The Judge as a Ranchman in New 
Mexico 61 

The famous station of Mariveles — Description of the harbor 

— The simple-minded inhabitants — The commodious bar- 
racks built by the Americans — An attractive seaside resort 

— The Spanish Junta — The ceremony of Inspection and the 
silver bait — The legend of Mariveles — The Fraile, Monja, 
and Corregidor — Cholera in Manila — Effect on the Amer- 
ican fleet — Three days' additional quarantine — Acquaint- 
ance with the Judge — His self-supporting cat ranch — Why 
the Judge abandoned his ranch — A high-class typhoon — 
Out in the .China Sea. 

CHAPTER VIII 

The Ship's Passenger List 74 

The Hong Kong chair — Our passenger list — A few of our 
doughty warriors — The stunning blonde from the west — 
The Blinks family — The chic bride and six children, — The 



CONTENTS ix 

PAGE 

young American and his dusky family — The unhappy soul- 
mate — The contented trio — The silent squad below — The 
English idea of burial abroad. 

CHAPTER IX 

A Brief Sketch of Formosa 81 

A pleasant sail up the coast of Luzon — The tragedy of 
Piedras lighthouse — The precipitous cliffs of Formosa — 
The early history of the Island — Its primitive settlers — 
How the Island received its name — Under the control of 
China and Japan — Spanish, Portuguese, and Dutch suprem- 
acy — Under the French — The treaty of Shimonoseki — 
What the Japanese are doing for Formosa — The flora and 
fauna of the Island — The home of the rose and Oolong tea 

— Principal seaport towns. 

CHAPTER X 

Arrival in the Harbor of Nagasaki 89 

The chain of Loochoos — The impatient son of Mars — The 
death of the merchant's wife — Her burial at sea — Approach 
to Nagasaki — The masked batteries along the bluffs — The 
quarantine inspectors — Disappointment of Captain J. — His 
appeal to the heartless sons of Nippon — The following morn- 
ing — Experiences of the sterilizing process — On the bluffs 
behind the station — Arrival in Nagasaki. 

CHAPTER XI 

A Sketch of Nagasaki 97 

Japanese sampan fleet — A Japanese gondolier — The mod- 
ern sampan — Harbor and city of Nagasaki — Japanese cus- 
tom officials — The Island of Deshima and Dutch merchants 

— Nagasaki hotels — The nine provinces of Kyushu — Area 
of Kyushu — First appearance of Jimmu Tenno — Empress 
Jingo Kogo and conquest of Korea — Her son Hachiman, 
the God of War. 

CHAPTER XII 

NOBUNAGA, HiDEYOSHI AND IEYASU ThE PERSECUTION OF 

THE Romanists 104 

Persecutions of the Catholics of Japan — Nobunaga, Hideyo- 
shi and leyasu — The battle of Sekigahara — Battle of 
Osaka — Death of Hideyori — Arrival of Francis Xavier — 
Similarity of Buddhism and Romanism — Establishment of 
Romanism in Japan — Departure of Francis Xavier — Edicts 
of 1587, 1607 and 1614 — Crucifixion of priests — Horrible 
persecutions of Native Christians — Rebellion of Shimabara. 



X CONTENTS 

CHAPTER XIII 

PAGE 

The Beautiful Environment of Nagasaki . 118 

Japanese ricksha-men — The ricksha of the East — Its in- 
vention by an American missionary — The bronze torii and 
horse — The annual religious festival of July — The Moto- 
Kago-Machi and its shops — The fish-market of Nagasaki — 
Coaling steamers — Trip to Moji — The waterfall of Kwan- 
non-no-taki — Peninsula of Shimabara — The blind mas- 
seurs — The disembodied spirits of the gulf — Massacre of 
the 40,000 Christians — Japanese railroads and trains — 
Sleepers and buffets. 

CHAPTER XIV 

Island of Kyushu and the Satsuma Rebellion 128 

Departure for Shimonoseki — Picturesque scenery along the 
line of railway — Arita, the home of beautiful porcelain — 
Takeo and the feudal town of Saga — History and legends 
of Kyushu — The Satsuma rebellion — Saigo Takamori as 
councillor of state — Growing influence of foreigners at 
court — Attack on Kumamoto — The campaign of the rebels 

— Last stand of Saigo — His death by hara-kiri — The little 
cemetery of Kagoshima — Statue of Saigo in Ueno Park, 
Tokio — Scenes farther north — Fukuoka, Hakata, and 
Okura — Arrival at Shimonoseki. 

CHAPTER XV 

The Shimonoseki Affair — Voyage Through the Inland Sea 136 
Arrival at Shimonoseki — The Sanyo Hotel — Shipping point 
for Korea, Manchuria, and China — The Shimonoseki affair 

— Conditions in Japan at the time — Captain David Mc- 
Dougal and the Wyoming — The Dutch frigate Medusa and 
the Tancrede — Bombardment by the allied fleet — The in- 
demnity of $3,000,000 — The return of America's share — 
Battle of Dan-no-ura — Loss of the Taira host — The Inland 
Sea and coast defences. 

CHAPTER XVI 

Origin of the Japanese Race 148 

Arrival at Kobe — Brief visit to the city — Origin of the 
Japanese people — The Kojiki and Nihonji, the Japanese 
bibles — Mythological origin of the people — Izanagi and 
Izamagi, the Japanese Adam and Eve — The sun-goddess 
Amat'^rasu — Her playful little brother — Amaterasu retires 
to her cave of darkness — The Ainos — Malays from Malay- 
sia — The Mongols from China and Korea. 



CONTENTS xi 

CHAPTER XVII 

pagb 
A Bird's-eye View of Yokohama 158 

Arrival in Yokohama — The principal hotels — The cele- 
brated bluffs of Yokohama — The Japanese merchants and 
Chinese tailors — Hunky-dory, the sailor's resort — Yoko- 
hama a fishing village in 1853 — Mr. Richardson and the 
bombardment of Kagoshima — Result of the engagement — 
Indemnity of $500,000 — Escape of Mr. Richardson's mur- 
derer. 

CHAPTER XVIII 

Trip to Kamakuea, and the Great Dai-Butsu 164 

Society of Yokohama — The Britisher in the Orient — His 
love of exercise and clubs — Mrs. Weppner's tribute to the 
Englishman in the Orient — Visit to Kamakura — The an- 
cient capital — Reign of Yoritomo — Murder of Sanetomo — 
Temple of Kwannon — The great Dai-butsu — The Island of 
Enoshima — The Goddess Benten and the Dragon — Glimpse 
of Fuji. 

CHAPTER XIX 

Down the Coast of Sag ami to Yokosuka 172 

Down the coast of Sagami — Treaty Point — Sugita and the 
Plum Blossoms — The Plains of Heaven — The view across 
Yedo Bay — Kanazawa the True and Beautiful — Dyzuki 
Summer Palace of the Crown Prince — Yokosuka, the dock- 
yard of Japan — The tomb of Will Adams — The dinner at 
Kai-yo-ken — The polyglot Army Engineers — Return to Yo- 
kohama. 



CHAPTER XX 

From Yokohama to Tokio by Ricksha 182 

F»om Yokohama to Tokio by ricksha — The old Tokaido 
Highway — The Temple of Kawasaki — The Tokio Race 
Club — The manufacturing section of Tokio — Murray's 
Guide Book — The official guides of Japan — The American 
Embassy — Shiba Park and the Temple of Zojoji — The 
mausolea of the Shoguns — Temple of Benten — The Shrine 
of Tema — The Maple Club and Saint Andrew's Church. 



xii CONTENTS 

CHAPTER XXI 

PAGE 

Sightseeing in Old Yedo 191 

Hibiya, the Park of Recreation — Baseball, Tennis and Foot- 
ball — Kudan Hill and the Patriot's Shrine — Museum of 
Arms — The Emperor's Palace — Simple life of the Mikado 
— The House of Parliament — University and educational 
institutions of Japan — Ueno Park and Public Museum — 
Asakusa Park, the Bowery of Tokio — The Yoshiwara, the 
Palace of Vice — Spring Hill Cemetery and the Forty-seven 
Ronin. 

CHAPTER XXII 

The Story of the Foety-Seven Ronin 202 

The dual government — Lords Kira, Ako and Sama — The 
Royal Envoy from Kioto — Lord Kira's insult — Lord Ako's 
attack — Death of Lord Ako — Petition to the Shogun — The 
Ronin's resolve — Three weary years of waiting — The at- 
tack on Lord Kira's castle and his death — Ceremonies at 
Spring Hill Cemetery — Silence and death of the Ronin. 

CHAPTER XXIII 

iNiK-KO AND Lake Chuzenji 213 

Visit to Nik-ko — Avenue of Cryptomerias leading to the 
tomb — Villages of Hachi-ishi and Iri-machi — Hotels of 
Nik-ko — The Daiya-gawa and the Sacred Bridge — Shodo 
Shonin and the Bridge of Snakes — Choy-o-kwan and the 
Rin-no-ji — The Torii and the Pagoda — The First Court and 
the Monkeys of Nik-ko — The Second Court and the Great 
Bell — The Gate of Yomei-mon and Third Court — The Kara- 
mon Gate and the " Holy of Holies " — The famous Ele- 
phants and sleeping Cat — The tomb of leyasu — Trip to 
Lake Chuzenji — The Fifty Images of Amida — The white- 
robed pilgrims — Scenes along the mountain road — Mount 
Nan-tai-zan and Lake Chuzenji — Yomoto and its copper- 
stained lake — Return to Nik-ko. 

CHAPTER XXIV 

Brief Sketch of Japanese History 227 

Sketch of Japanese history — Largely mythological in char- 
acter — The Ainos and Pit Dwellers — Jimmu Tenno, the 
first Mikado — Emperor Sujin, father of Agriculture — Em- 
press Jingo and her son Ojin — Prince Shotoku and Bud- 
dhism — Feudalism and the Fujiwaras — Kiyomori, Yoshi- 
tomo and Yoritomo — Tokiwa and her son Yoshitsune — 
Yoritomo the first Shogun — Capital at Kamakura. 



CONTENTS xiii 

CHAPTER XXV 

PAGE 

Brief Sketch of Japanese History — Continued .... 238 
Tlie Tairas and Minamotos — Yosliitsune and Munemori — 
The naval engagement of Dan-no-ura — The dual government 

— Death of Yoritomo — Elevation of the Hojo family — 
Defeat of Kublai Khan — Masashige and Nitta Yoshisada — 
The Ashikaga family — The introduction of Nobunaga, 
Hideyoshi, and leyasu — The Tokugawa Dynasty — Arrival 
of Commodore Perry — First treaty with the United States 

— Surrender of Feudalism and the Satsuma Rebellion — 
War with China and acquisition of Formosa. 

CHAPTER XXVI 

The Three Classic Beauties of Japan . 251 

Matsushima and the Sacred Island of Kin-kwa-zan — Ishin- 
o-maki Bay and the Fantastic Archipelago — The tame deer 
of Kin-kwa-zan — Amo-no-Hashidate and the Pine Clad Dune 

— Miyajima, the Sacred Isle of the Inland Sea — The Moun- 
tain District of Hakone — The Odawara Conference — Myan- 
oshita and the Fujiya Hotel — The Maiden's Pass — Go- 
temba and Subashira — Ascent of Fujiyama — The Goddess 
Fuji-sen-gen — The eruptions of Fuji — Trip to Lake Ha- 
kone — The Soga Brethren and Tora Gozen — The Legend of 
the Bowlder on Kama-yama — The Ten Province Pass — 
Ojigoku, the Big Hell — Return to Yokohama. 

CHAPTER XXVII 

The Boxer Trouble op 1900 in China and Naval Engage- 
ments during the Russo-Japanese War of 1904-5 . . 263 
The Boxer Trouble — Murder of the German Minister and 
Japanese Secretary — The Peking Compact — Baron Komura 
and Count Lamsdorflf — The Declaration of War — Departure 
of Togo for Port Arthur — Sinking of the Koreyetz and 
Variag at Chemulpo — The Rendezvous at Elliott Island — 
Night attack of the Flotilla on Port Arthur — Injury to 
the Tzarevitch, Revitsan, and Pallada — Togo's attack the 
following morning — Blockading the harbor — The destruc- 
tion of Rodjestvensky's fleet. 

CHAPTER XXVIII 

Land Engagements of the Japanese Army During the Russo- 
Japanese War 275 

Organization of the Japanese Army — Strength of the Rus- 
sian Army — Battle of the Yalu — Kuroki marches north — 
The Battle of Motienling Pass — Arrival of the Second 



xiv CONTENTS 

PAGE 

Army under General Oku — The Battle of Nan Shan — 
Battles of Tehlisz, Kaiping, Newchwang and Taihihkao — 
Arrival of the Fourth Army under General Nodzu — Bat- 
tles of Fenshuiling and Tomucheng — Siege of Liaoyang and 
retreat of the Russians — Battle of the Slia-ho — The siege 
of Port Arthur under General Nogi — Battle of Mukden — 
Negotiations for peace — Meeting at Portsmouth, New Hamp- 
shire — Terms of the agreement — Conclusion of peace — 
Dissatisfaction in Japan and Russia — Kuropatkin's sum- 
mary of causes leading to Russian reverses — The real 
causes — Japanese casualties during the War. 

CHAPTER XXIX 

Journey from Yokohama to Kioto 287 

The American fleet in Yokohama — The departure for Kioto 

— The old admiral and the native lunch — The Tokaido and 
Nakasendo Highways — Oiso, Kozu, and Gotemba — Mio-no- 
Matsubara and the drama of the Robe of Feathers — Kuno- 
zan and the tomb of leyasu — Nagoya, the Capital of 
Owari — The Old Castle — Atsuta and the Temple of the 
Sacred Sword — The Scto Potteries — The Nagoya Hotel and 
Japanese maids — Gifu and cormorant fishing — Seki-ga- 
hara and head mounds — Arrival in Kioto. 

CHAPTER XXX 

Kioto, the Heart of Old Japan 302 

Arrival in Kioto — Hotels for Tourists — The Old Palace — 
The Nijo Castle — The Nishi and Higashi HongAvanji Tem- 
ples — The Silver and Gold Pavilions — The Katsura Sum- 
mer Palace — The Shimo Gamo Temple — Tai-kyoku-den Pal- 
ace — The Monastery of Chion-in — The famous Dai-butsu — 
The 1000 Image Temple of Kwannon — Shooting the Hodzu 
Rapids — Lake Biwa and the Eight Classic Beauties — The 
Geisha Dance. 

CHAPTER XXXI 

Nara, the Ancient Capital of Dai-Nippon 321 

Departure for Nara — Tea District of Uji — Japan's Ther- 
mopylcTB — The Ancient Capital of Nara and the modern 
city — Yamato, the cradle of Japan — The Mounds and 
Dolmens of its ancient rulers — The avenues and roads of 
the Park — Sacred bands of deer — Temples and museums 

— The Kagura dance — The crumbling temples of the Plain 

— The Horyuji — Osaka, the Chicago of Japan — A modern 
Japanese banquet — The sights of the city — The old Castle 
and Tennoji Temple — Osaka by gaslight. 



CONTENTS XV. 

CHAPTER XXXII 

PAGE 

The Shinto Religion — AsRivAii of the Christian Mission- 
aries 337 

From Osaka to Kobe — Native beef and sak6 — The Shinto 
Religion — Its Gods and Fetichism — Ancestor worship on 
Kudan Hill — Togo's speech to the spirits of his dead sailors 

— Teachings of Shintoism — Early Roman Church in Japan 

— The advent of Protestantism — Doctors Hepburn, Brown, 
and Verbeck — The work of missionaries in the Orient — 
Statistics of Christianity in Japan — Altruism of American 
missionaries in the Orient and Far East. 

CHAPTER XXXIII 

The Arrival and History of Buddhism 351 

Condition of Japan on the arrival of Buddhism — Develop- 
ment of the country under Buddhistic influences — Condition 
of the Philippines during this period — Birth and early life 
of Buddha — His mother — The Renunciation — His life in 
the Wilderness — Enlightenment and Temptation — The 
Four Principles — Cardinals for the guidance of mankind — 
Monasteries and monks — Buddha's moral code — Buddhistic 
creation of the world — Transplantation of Buddhism to 
Japan — Arrival of Confucianism — Riyobu, or mixed Bud- 
dhism. 

CHAPTER XXXIV 

Kobe and Environment — Traits of Japanese Women . . . 361 
The Ancient Capital Hyogo — The sea-port town Kobe — The 
Temple of Ikuta — A christening ceremony — The Sacred 
Dice Box — The Waterfalls of Nunobiki — The environment 
of Kobe — Mr. Wilkinson's lawsuit — Himeji, Okayama, and 
Fukuyama — The kaleidoscope of the Royal Highway — A 
Japanese bride and groom — A few traits of Japanese women 

— Their homes and housekeeping — The five maladies which 
aflfect the female mind in Japan — Stories illustrative of 
their character. 

CHAPTER XXXV 

The Japanese Army and Navy — The Sacred Island of 

Japan — Adios 375 

The great Naval Arsenal at Kure — Plant for guns and ar- 
mor-plate — The Japanese Navy — Preparation of Naval 
Officers — The Naval College on the Island of Etajima — The 
Japanese Army — Reserves, Landwehr, and Landsturm — 
The education and appointment of Army Officers — Compar- 



xvi CONTENTS 

PAGE 

ison with the American Army and Navy — Hiroshima, the 
great military station of Japan — The Methodist Mission 
and College — Hotels and restaurants — Approach to Miya- 
jima — The Sacred Temple and Torii — The Iwaso Hotel 
and nesan attendants — A hero of Port Arthur — The un- 
happy widow — Arrival in Shimonoseki — Farewell to Japan. 

Appendix 393 

With routes and cost of travel from the United States to the 
Orient and Far East. 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

FAGB 

Fujiyama, from the sea-shoee near Dzushi, Japan Frontispiece 

Filipino caeabao cart and driver 10 

Native Filipino cart, Bautista, Pangasinan, Philippines . 11 

Pueblo church, Calasiao, Philippines 16 

Native Filipino house, of the better class, used as army 

hospital during Insurrection 17 

Igorot village, Bontoc Province, Philippines 22 

Igorot band. Province of Benguet, Philippines 23 

Church bell of Balangiga, Samar, Philippines, tolled by 
the parish priest as the signal for the massacre of 

Company C, Ninth Infantry 26 

The Army Club, Camp McKinley, near Manila 27 

Fort Santiago and Anda monument, Manila 27 

American soldiers in the Philippines washing their clothes 
during the days of the Insurrection 32 

Igorot men, Province of Benguet, Philippines 33 

Igorot women. Province of Benguet, Philippines .... 33 
Major-general Arthur MacArthur and staff, at headquar- 
ters of Second Division, Eighth Army Corps, Bautista, 

DURING the Philippine Insurrection 36 

Members first board of health organized for the Philippine 

Islands by the American Government 37 

Archbishop's palace and Augustinian monastery, Walled 

City, Manila 42 

Cathedral and convent op San Fernando, Province Pam- 
PANGA, Philippines, burned during Filipino Insurrection 43 

Filipino cart used as mail wagon during the Insurrection 46 
Filipino house, Calapan, Island of Mindora, Philippines . 46 

xvii 



xviii ILLUSTRATIONS 

PAGE 

Old Oriente Hotel, Manila, now headquarters of Insular 

Constabulary 47 

Church and convent, Binmaley, Philippines 52 

MORO BOYS WAITING TO DIVE FOB COINS, ZaMBOANGO, MINDANAO 53 

Practising for a chicken fight, the national sport of the 

Filipinos 62 

CARABAO team DRAWING TIMBER FROM THE FORESTS OF TARLAC 

Province , . . 63 

Provincial types of Filipinos 68 

Group of native boys, Bautista, Philippines 69 

Filipino mestizo, Manila 76 

Group of Filipino sisters, Bautista, Pangasinan .... 77 
First legal execution in the Philippines under the Amer- 
ican Government, San Carlos, Province of Pangasinan . 84 
Huts of Tagbanuas, Island of Linapacan, Philippines . . 85 
Among the southern islands in the Philippines .... 94 
Stone lanterns and torii, Sacred Island, Japan .... 95 
Famous torii, Sacred Island of Miyajima, Japan .... 95 

View of Fujiyama from Enoshima, Japan 106 

Fujiyama, from shore near Kamakura, Japan 106 

Entrance to Kasuga Temple, Nara, Japan 107 

Cryptomeria road, Nik-ko: trees planted three hundred 

years ago 107 

KORAKUYEN PARK, OkAYAMA, JaPAN 122 

Temple Pagoda, Osaka, Japan 123 

Firing 28 cm. howitzer at Russian fleet, in harbor of Port 

Arthur, Manchuria 132 

Monument to Japanese dead, Port Arthur, Manchuria . .133 

Entrance to the Kasuga Temple, Nara, Japan 144 

Kegon Falls, outlet to Lake Chuzenji, near Nik-ko, Japan . 145 

Japanese artist sketching from nature 160 

Japanese maid preparing dinner 161 

EussiAN DEAD ON 200 ISIetre Hill, Port Arthur, Manchuria . 176 
Explosion of Fort Er-lung-shan, Port Arthur, Manchuria . 177 
Cormorant fishing on the Nagara River, Gipi, Japan . . .198 



ILLUSTRATIONS xix 

PAGE 

Nagota Castle, Province of Owari, Japan 199 

Sacred bridge of Nik-ko, Japan 220 

Temple of Kitano Tenjin, Kyoto 221 

Sacred island of Enoshima, Japan 242 

Kameido Temple of Tenjin, Tokio, Japan 243 

ISTuNOBiKi Falls, Kobe, Japan 264 

Mountain scenery, Miyanoshita, Japan 264 

Government Mint Park, Osaka, Japan 265 

Ikuta Temple, Kobe, Japan 265 

203 Metre Hill, Port Arthur, Manchuria 290 

Removal of the dead from East Kik-wan-shan Fort, Port 

Arthur, Manchuria 291 

" See no evil, speak no evil, hear no evil " 316 

Famous carved monkeys, by Hidari Jingoro, Nik-ko, Japan . 316 
Interior of Temple of Mats, Sacred Island, Japan, decorated 

with wooden rice spoons 317 

Castle at Osaka, Japan 317 

Japanese house maids 338 

Japanese mother teaching her child 339 

Motomachi-dori Street, Kobe, Japan 356 

Street scene, Tokio, Japan 356 

Explosion of Fort Sung-shu-shan, Port Arthur, Manchuria 357 

Japanese woman of the wealthy class 370 

Sacred temple, Miyajima, Japan 371 

Hachiman Temple, Kamakura, Japan 371 

Famous Dai-butsu of Kamakura, Japan 386 

Donjon, wall, and moat. Castle of Osaka, Japan .... 387 



PREFACE 

While on duty in tlie Philippine Islands, during my last 
tour of service, in company with an army officer the 
writer made a journey through Japan, Korea, Manchuria, 
and China. Careful notes were prepared during the trip 
with a view to their publication in the form of an itinerary 
through the countries mentioned. 

Before half of the present volume was completed I dis- 
covered that it would be impossible to encompass under 
one cover all the countries visited, so have reserved an 
account of my visit to Korea, Manchuria, and China for 
future publication, provided sufficient encouragement in 
the circulation of the present work warrants it. 

In order to add to the usefulness of the book, special 
chapters have been inserted relating to the Philippine In- 
surrection of 1896-7, Formosa Island, the origin of the 
Japanese race, the Shinto and Buddhist religions, per- 
secutions of the Romanists during the seventeenth century 
and a historical sketch of 'Japan, including the War with 
China, the Boxer Trouble of 1900, and the Russo-Japan- 
ese War of 1904-5. 

In conclusion I desire to express grateful acknowledg- 
ments for the valuable assistance received from the works 
of the following authors on 'Japan and the Russo-Japanese 
War: Basil H. Chamberlain, David Murray, William 
Elliot Griffis, Lafcadio Hearn, Sir Edward J. Reed, Engel- 
bert Kaempfer, Ernest W. Clement, Arthur Lloyd, Gaston 
Migeon, 0. E. Wood, Thomas Cowen, General Kuropatkin 
and a host of other interesting writers. 

L. M. M. 

CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, 

August, 1911. 



XXI 



AN ARMY OFFICER ON LEAVE 

IN JAPAN 



CHAPTER I 
FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO MANILA 

The Lobby of the Palace Hotel — Despatch from 
Washington — Across the Lonesome Pacific — Ar- 
rival IN Manila — Its Commercial Activity and Ad- 
vantages — Drive through the Busy Metropolis — 
Quaint Scenes on the Street — Our Little Brown 
Brother and Wild Cousin from the Mountains — 
Arrival at the Club and Introduction to the Major 
and the Judge — Tiffin and the Piece-de-resistance. 

I HAD just finished my after-breakfast cigar and was 
awaiting a friend in the lobby of the Palace Hotel, 
San Francisco, one morning last August, when my atten- 
tion was attracted by a telegraph boy who approached me 
with the familiar yellow envelope of the Western Union. 
It contained a despatch from Washington directing me to 
proceed by the first available transportation to Manila, on 
important business connected with the Government, adding 
that full instructions had been forwarded by mail. 

I had occupied an important position in the National 
Bureau of Commerce since its organization, and imme- 
diately concluded from this unexpected order that Congress 
desired more specific information concerning the status of 
trade in the Philippines, and was anxious to learn what 

. 1 [1] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

influence extended commerce might wield in the promo- 
tion of peace among our Oriental neighbors. 

My orders were mandatory and I was to leave with the 
least possible delay. The duties connected with the mis- 
sion would consume at least four months, which barely 
gave me time to return to Washington to submit my re- 
port before the assembling of Congress in December. 

The steamship Ma^ichuria, belonging to the Pacific Mail, 
was to sail in a few days, and after 'phoning for a reserva- 
tion, which I was fortunate enough to secure at that late 
date, I began my hasty preparations for the long voyage 
across the boundless, restless and sun-scorched Pacific. 

Before leaving San Francisco my friends provided me 
with several letters of introduction to civil and military 
officials in Manila, among which were cards to an army 
officer and a member of the Insular Judiciary, whom I 
shall introduce as the Major and the Judge and with 
whom I passed three of the most pleasant and instructive 
months of my life while journeying through interesting 
and quaint Japan, Korea, Manchuria, and China. 

I was especially fortunate in securing the companion- 
ship of these two gentlemen, not only because they were 
charming travelling comrades but on account of their 
knowledge of the countries through which we passed. The 
Major had been on duty with the Chinese Belief Expe- 
dition during the Boxer troubles in 1901, and with Kuroki 's 
army in Korea and Manchuria until the conclusion of peace 
at Portsmouth a year later. 

I will not tire my readers with the details of the tedious 
voyage across the Pacific, which is perhaps the most lone- 
some ocean on the face of the earth, but will tarry long 
enough to say that its name, given it by Magellan, is well 
merited, except that he should have added ''and monoto- 
nous," for during the entire trip we never encountered 
a single ship. We sailed out of the Golden Gate one 
bright morning a few days after the receipt of my orders, 
making the usual stops at Honolulu, Yokohama, and Kobe 

[2] 



FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO MANILA 

before reaching Hong Kong, where I secured passage on 
the steamship Buhy for Manila, which port we reached 
three days later. 

The formalities with the customs officials being over at 
the office of the Captain of the Port, I secured the services 
of a carromato, a jaunty little two-wheeled native cart, 
and proceeded at once to the Army and Navy Club, where 
I was informed that I would most likely find my army 
and judicial friends. 

The visitor for the first time entering the harbor of 
Manila, will be surprised at the commercial bustle and 
activity with which he is surrounded. He will soon ap- 
preciate the fact that this historic sea-port is destined to 
become the great Oriental distributing centre of the world's 
commodities, especially for America's manufactured prod- 
ucts and goods, and perhaps wonder at the death-like 
lethargy which exists in the American mind at home rel- 
ative to the trading opportunities of the Orient. Amer- 
icans have gone to sleep over this question ; they have been 
lulled into a profound hypnotic state which may know 
no awakening until England, Germany, Russia, and Japan 
have irrevocably welded together the links in the chain 
of commercial exclusion to the vast markets which America 
some day will demand. 

The drive from the custom-house to the club in the 
walled city was strange and interesting. Amid the busy 
marts leading up the Calle San Fernando to the Plaza 
Capitan de la Barca stands the picturesque old church and 
convent of Binondo and the famous hostelry, the Oriente, 
now the home of the Insular Constabulary. 

Along this busy street one passes a veritable kaleidoscopic 
stream of heterogeneous humanity and sees for the first 
time his little brown brother attired in stiff shirt-front, 
derby, and patent leathers, and his wild cousin from the 
mountains who passes along smilingly unmindful of his 
scanty breech clout and raiment, which consists otherwise 
simply of the blue canopy of Heaven. Nor will he fail to 

[3] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

note Chinese coolies with toad-stool hats of plaited bam- 
boo strips, swinging along at a shambling dog-trot, car- 
rying suspended across their shoulders baskets laden with 
vegetables, pottery, or piuoche ; opulent Celestials clothed 
in lavender and rose-colored silk, scurrying along in hand- 
some carromatos drawn by spirited ponies from Batangas ; 
skirted Cingalese with their wealth of hair coiffeured a la 
femmc; bare-headed maidens, mestizo and native, arrayed 
in trailing jusi skirts, pi tin Avaists, and velveteen or gold- 
embroidered clienelas' black-gowned and sandalled friars, 
American soldiers in khaki, Europeans of all nationalities, 
and conveyances of every conceivable kind. 

The effect of the picture is enhanced by the large, 
wooden- wheeled carts drawn by carahao, or water-buffalo, 
moving along so slowly that one wonders whether both 
animal and driver were not indulging in the afternoon 
siesta, a daily custom with every one living in the 
tropics. 

After driving through Calle Rosario, the Chinese quarter 
of retail trade, and passing by Clarke's and the Paris- 
Manila, we crossed the Bridge of Spain and found ourselves 
facing the frowning walls of old Manila, the ancient home 
of plot, intrigue, and eternal wrong. 

Leaving the Botanical Garden on the left and passing 
the square containing that insignificant and disgraceful 
monument in commemoration of the great navigator and 
discoverer, Ferdinand Magellan, I passed quickly through 
the Parian gate and shortly found myself at the entrance 
of the Army and NaAy Club. 

This club, which combines the qualities of hotel, casino, 
library, and assembly hall, may be regarded as the centre 
of Manila's social life. It is located in a large, handsome, 
one-story, stuccoed building occupying the larger half of 
the square between Calle Cabildo, Palacio, and Santa 
Potenciana and was originally constructed for Spanish 
engineer officers. The interior space is occupied by a patio 
or garden elaborately ornamented with bordered walks, 

[4] 



FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO MANILA 

flowering shrubs, and plants, handsome palms, and shade 
trees. 

My arrival at the club proved to be well timed indeed, 
for I had reached there at the noon hour, the most popular 
period of the day. Manila is not only the seat of the Civil 
Government, but the headquarters of the Army of the Phil- 
ippines as well, and noon is the hour of tiffin. 

Good fortune had followed me on leaving the Golden 
Gate, had continued across the placid waters of the great 
ocean, and, within an hour after debarkation in Manila 
harbor, had inducted me into the presence of my newly 
made friends, the Major and the P'udge, whom I found 
comfortably seated in a shady nook of the patio discussing 
the cooling virtues of a well-iced glass of King William the 
Fourth and Watson soda. 

*'We are most happy to meet you, Mr. Rhodes," said 
the Major; *'I speak both for the Judge and myself; 
please be seated and join us." 

The Major pressed an electric bell conveniently 
suspended above the table, which was promptly answered 
by a Chinese waiter in immaculate white. **Boy, take 
Mr. Rhodes' order." He added later, **I am glad to see 
that you have ordered the beverage of the tropics, Scotch 
and soda, for our English cousins inform us that red 
whiskey is rank poison out here and I am inclined to be- 
lieve they are half right." 

** During your stay in Manila I hope you will accept 
the hospitality of the club," said the Judge, *^for I am 
sorry to state that the hotels of Manila are far from 
satisfactory. The Oriente, the only comfortable place in 
the city, was sold for constabulary offices a few years ago, 
but I understand the Civil Government intends to appro- 
priate a half million pesos to construct a modern hotel 
which will be leased to some enterprising company." 

"Thank you, gentlemen, for the kind invitation which I 
accept with pleasure," I replied, *'but I am sorry to state 
that I will be unable to spend more than a few days here 

[5] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

as I have orders to make a hasty visit to Japan, China, 
and neighboring countries before returning to the States. 
You are aware, no doubt, that Congress has been investi- 
gating the commercial conditions of the Philippines and 
trade relationship with our neighbors. I must return to 
"Washington early in December with my report. '* 

*'So you are going to visit Japan and China?" asked 
the Major. 

*'Yes, and possibly Korea and Manchuria as well. You 
are aware that there has been considerable agitation in 
Europe and America over the aggressive policy of Japan 
in those two countries, especially with regard to railroad 
control." 

*'That is fortunate indeed," replied the Major, **for 
my friend the Judge and I have arranged a trip through 
those very countries, and expect to sail for Nagasaki on 
the transport leaving the fifteenth, which is next Wednes- 
day. Can you not complete your business in time to ac- 
company us? As an official of the Government you are 
entitled to transportation and, if you decide to go with 
us, it will afford me pleasure to secure a cabin for you. ' ' 

*' Indeed, gentlemen, this proposition is not only agree- 
able but flattering and nothing would afford me greater 
pleasure. I w^ill certainly endeavor to join you." 

*'In any case, Mr. Rhodes, I would advise you to take 
a turn around the city before you leave," remarked the 
Judge, *'and if you find time to do so, it would afford the 
Major and myself pleasure to be your escorts. You will 
find that Manila is filled with both historic interest and 
sad memories." 

Tiffin was now announced, a word in general use for the 
mid-day meal throughout the entire Orient, especially in 
British colonies. One really has to visit the tropics to 
fully enjoy the piece-de-resistance of every bill of fare, 
whether it be breakfast, tiffin, or dinner, which is curry and 
rice. There lives no French chef who can prepare this 
delightful dish with the same consummate skill as the 

[6] 



FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO MANILA 

Oriental, nor is there any land or clime where it is more 
suitable or acceptable than the Far East. 

With the steaming pearly rice and well-seasoned dish of 
curry, comes a many-partitioned platter containing red 
and white chutney, both sweet and sour, grated cocoanut, 
vinegared miniature onions, ground toasted peanuts, 
minced hard-boiled eggs, pickles of various kinds, and a 
dozen other delicate condiments and relishes which add 
zest and seductiveness to the stimulating qualities of this 
prince of all Oriental bills of fare. 

Although less than two years have passed away since my 
return from the Far East, I have travelled through many 
lands and partaken of their national dishes. I have 
feasted to satiety upon the Dutch riz tavel of Java, the 
popular rassulnick of Russia, the spicy goulasch of Hun- 
gary, the far-reaching kraut and Frankfurters of the 
Fatherland, the savory spaghetti of Italy, the much-be- 
I'oved pot-d-feu of La Belle France, the muscle-making 
roast-beef and plum-pudding of Merrie England, the 
piquant chile con came of Mexico, the three-finger poi of 
Hawaii, and the Sunday morning baked-beans and pump- 
kin-pie of Yankeedom, but among them all I have found 
nothing to compare, in the tang of its sapidity, to curry 
and rice, that famous and seductive dish of the Orient. 



[7] 



CHAPTER II 

COMMEECIAL OPPORTUNITIES IN THE PHILIP- 
PINES 

The Civil Governor and Commission — An Exemplary 
Colonial Government — The Wealth op the Islands 

— Need of Capital and Labor — The Early Site op 
Manila — The Army and Navy Club — The Climate 
op the Philippines — The Sights op the Walled City 

— Church op Saint Augustine — The Palace op the 
Archbishop and the Cathedral — College op Santo 
ToMAS — Santiago and its Dungeon Cells — The 
Malecon Driveway and Luneta — The Execution of 

RlZAL. 

nPHE following morning I called on the Civil Governor 
^ whom I found occupied with many important matters 
connected with the islands. The original work of organiz- 
ing the Insular government was entrusted to the Honorable 
William H. Taft, the first civil governor, and the members 
of the Philippine Commission, who have given the world 
a modern lesson in colonial administration which will 
ever remain an honor to our country. All that is neces- 
sary to make the islands bloom like a garden and to be- 
come the most prosperous colony in the world are capital 
and labor. Capital from the United States and labor 
from the millions of industrious and willing hands in the 
Celestial Empire across the China Sea. After a satisfac- 
tory conference with the Governor and Commission I vis- 
ited the Collector of Customs and was enabled to make a 
careful survey of imports and exports, which have pro- 

[8] 



COMMERCIAL OPPORTUNITIES 

duced a revenue more than sufficient to defray the expenses 
of the Insular government, beside paying for the many 
public buildings, roads, system of public instruction, and 
general improvements in progress throughout the archi- 
pelago. By appointment with the President of the Amer- 
ican Chamber of Commerce a meeting of the business men 
was arranged on the second day after my arrival, which 
greatly facilitated the object of my mission in Manila. 

Only a few Americans at home have more than a super- 
ficial knowledge of the conditions in the Philippines, and 
they appear to care less. They are aware that the American 
fleet under Dewey sailed into Manila harbor in May, 1898, 
and ended Spanish domain in the Far East forever; that 
a group of islands occupied by a down-trodden people were 
gathered together under Old Glory, but both the islands 
and the people have remained to them an unknown quan- 
tity even to the present day. 

Little do our very best informed citizens in the home- 
land know that a priceless empire is going a-begging in this 
land of eternal summer, and that to the flag has come, as 
if God-sent, a territory greater in size than that of Great 
Britain and as rich as the fabulous wealth of the Indies. 

Only the magic touch of American enterprise is needed 
to convert those boundless plains into smiling fields of 
golden rice and luxuriant sugar-cane and cocoa-nut or- 
chards of perpetual wealth, and the mountain-sides into 
veritable storehouses of Manila hemp, the praises of which 
have been sung by sailor men for ages untold. Nor should 
we forget the wealth of the primeval forests of mahogany, 
rosewood, ebony, molave and other priceless hardwoods, the 
vast acreage adapted to the growth of aromatic tobacco, 
and the mountain ranges full of precious metals. 

There is no end to the list of valuable products that shall 
come some day from the plains, mountains, and seas of 
our possessions in the East to enrich the marts of the world, 
but come they will, whether through American enterprise 
or that of some envious neighbor who realizes the price- 

[9] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

less pearls neglected through our national ignorance and 
indifference. 

Manila has really made prodigious strides since Amer- 
ican occupanc3% in spite of the inertia of the American 
at home, some administrative restrictions, and a lethargic 
Congress, and within a few more years Old ]\Ianila will 
have become a thing of the past, usurped and crowded out 
by a modern city. 

The meeting with the Chamber of Commerce gave me a 
splendid opportunity to learn of the struggling American 
colony patiently awaiting recognition from home, and of 
laws that would make it possible to develop the islands — 
laws which, up to the present, have been smothered by 
trusts, combines, and bad administrative policy. No won- 
der that sugar plantations had gone into decay, that to- 
bacco fieUls capable of producing a product equal to that 
of the famed Yuelta Abajo of Cuba were lying idle, and 
that poverty and misery brooded over the land. 

The government at home realizes that the growth, pros- 
perity, and happiness of the Philippines must result from 
the product of labor in connection with agricultural in- 
dustries, and yet for years it dared not open its gates to a 
paltry list of cigars and a few thousand tons of sugar lest 
it incur the condemnation of the monopolies and trusts. 

A week had nearly passed since my arrival and, occupied 
as I had been with the affairs of my mission, I had seen lit- 
tle of my friends, the Major and the Judge, and less of the 
famous old city. My work was now finished and I was 
anxious to avail myself of their kind in'sdtation to see 
^[anila, the Pearl of the Orient. 

The transport was to sail in two more days and my 
transportation was secured, although I learned that every 
cabin had been called into requisition by officers and 
families en route to Japan and those returning to the 
homeland. 

Returning to the club after a tiresome day I found my 
friends sitting in their favored spot discussing the early 

[10] 



r 

o 

o 

> 

> 
DO 
> 

O 

o 

> 

73 








X 

< 
< 

< 
H 

H 

< 

pq 

< 

o 

P-H 

w 
> 

< 



COMMERCIAL OPPORTUNITIES 

history of the islands while enjoying the aroma of a 
Reina Victoria made from the tobacco grown in the Caga- 
yan Valley. 

*'You have no doubt noticed, Mr. Rhodes, that Manila 
lies in a low valley and that the surface of the street is 
but a few feet above water," remarked the Judge. 
**Yes," he added, **this entire valley is the result of 
alluvial deposits brought by the Pasig River from the great 
interior lake known as Laguna de Bay, which is not more 
than ten or twelve miles distant from here. 

''We are told by early writers that on the arrival of 
Legaspi in 1564 the entire site of the present city con- 
sisted of mangrove swamps and canals called esteros by 
the Spaniards, a number of which you have noticed in 
driving through the city. 

''Legaspi found two small towns, one on the present 
site of the walled city, known as Manilat and surrounded 
by a bamboo stockade, and the other on the opposite side 
of the river, known as Tondo. Both of these towns were 
ruled by rajahs under a form of government left by the 
early Hindu settlement, although the inhabitants were 
more or less Mohammedan in religious belief at the time. 

"It is a curious fact, Mr. Rhodes, that the Spaniards 
arrived barely in time to prevent the Moslem faith from 
taking root all over the Philippines. The cult had en- 
tered by way of Borneo and had taken entire possession 
of Mindanao, which has remained unchanged during the 
three hundred and fifty years of Spanish domination, in 
spite of every effort made by the Church to Christianize 
the Moros living there. A really curious coincidence con- 
nected with the Moro question at that time is the fact 
that the Spaniards had barely expurgated Moslemism from 
Southern Spain when they came over here, ten thou- 
sand miles away, to fight the infidel on the same religious 
grounds. ' ^ 

"The most tragic and interesting portion of Philippine 
history is connected with the Walled City,'' said the Major, 

[11] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

*'so in beginning our rambles around the city, we might 
start right here. 

*'The club in which we are so comfortably housed," he 
continued, ''was built by the Spanish army engineers and, 
as you see is wonderfully adapted to the climate, with its 
high ceilings and cool tile floors. You will also note the 
pleasant arrangement of the interior of the building and 
the wide and comfortable piazzas adjoining the garden 
within. A little over ten years ago, dinners, balls, and 
receptions took place here just as they do now, the only 
difference being in the composition of the assemblage. 
There is no doubt but that Generals Weyler, Blanco, and 
that insatiable tool of the friars and murderer of Rizal, 
Polavieja, have passed many a pleasant evening in the 
society of Manila *s handsome mestizo women in this de- 
lightful patio, listening to the inspiring strains of 'La 
Paloma' under the bewitching influence of the tropical 
moon." 

"Come, come. Major, you are getting positively sen- 
timental, ' ' said the Judge, ' ' and since the dinner hour has 
arrived, vamonos a comer, for we have a busy day ahead 
of us in the morning." 

Although it was the height of the rainy season the sun 
rose bright and clear the following morning, which greatly 
facilitated our expedition. 

The climate of the Philippines is usually divided into 
three seasons, known as the wet, dry, and dry-and-hot. 
The wet season begins as a rule about the middle or last 
of June and continues until December, the dry until the 
middle of March, and the dry-and-hot from then until the 
rains begin. Both the wet and dry seasons are reasonably 
agreeable, while the dry-and-hot forces those able to leave 
to the mountains of Benguet, or to Japan or China. 

"Come, gentlemen, our automobile is at the door, so 
with your permission we will start," said the Judge. 
"Let us first take a hasty survey of the great religious 
temples erected by the monastic orders, which, as you 

[12] 



COMMERCIAL OPPORTUNITIES 

know, played such an important role in the history of 
these wretched people, all of which are located within the 
walled city. Major, I am going to delegate to you the 
duties of guide, while I play the part of tourist with Mr. 
Rhodes, so please conduct us as expeditiously as possible 
and tell us all you know about this interesting old city. ' ' 

"Very well, gentlemen, if I am to be the guide, I shall 
demand attention at least, but before we start I would 
suggest that we light a Flor de Isabela which, in a measure, 
will conceal a few of the varieties of smells and odors we 
are likely to encounter in our wanderings to-day." 

"Chauffeur, you may halt here," said the Major after 
driving a block up Calle Palacio towards the Ayunta- 
miento. "This large church on the left, together with the 
convent adjoining, belongs to the Order of Saint Augustine 
and is the oldest church in the archipelago. It was built 
in 1590 and is the only church in Manila which has not 
repeatedly been tumbled to the ground by the various 
earthquakes with which Manila has been visited during 
Spanish occupation. Within its ancient walls lies all that 
is mortal of the great Adelantado Miguel de Legaspi and 
his grandson Juan Salcedo, the real conquerors of the 
island and founders of Manila. The order of Saint Au- 
gustine was the first to visit the archipelago ; in fact 
Urdaneta with five Augustinian monks arrived with Le- 
gaspi, hence this order became numerically the strongest 
over here. You will notice the convent which adjoins 
the church on the left. It extends several blocks and is 
said to be capable of sheltering a thousand monks. 

"We will pass down Calle Real toward the gate of 
Santa Lucia and then up the Calle del Arzobispo, upon 
which are located the Jesuit church and the palace of the 
archbishop. The wood carving in the Jesuit church is 
justly celebrated and it is said that nothing equal to it 
can be found in any of the handsome cathedrals of Europe, 
although every vine, leaf, and bunch of grapes was carved 
by native labor. 

[13] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

''The Jesuits came to the islands in 1602 for purely 
educational purposes, but, instead of remaining steadfast 
in the work for which they were so ably fitted, they soon 
longed for the flesh-pots of the land and demanded their 
share of the curacies which became the 'get-rich-quick' 
route to the other and more sordid monastic orders, and 
the bone of contention between them and the native clergy. 
To this great, irritating ulcer may be ascribed three-fourths 
of all the trouble between Spain and the native Filipino, 
and the origin of every insurrection. Poor, benighted, old 
Spain never recognized the situation until Dewey's fleet 
entered the Bay of Manila, but unfortunately then the 
opportunity for reform had forever passed. The great 
wave of opposition to the Order of the Jesuits which passed 
over Prance and Spain in 1760, extended to the Philip- 
pines a few years later, so the Society of Jesus had to go. 
In 1852 they were allowed to return to the Philippines 
and from that date to the present have behaved themselves 
fairly well, devoting their energy to instruction and scien- 
tific research. 

"The handsome palace you see a short distance up the 
street is the residence of the archbishop. It looks quiet 
and peaceful to-day and offers no hint of the turbulent 
scenes which have been enacted there during the three 
centuries and a half of Spanish rule. Archbishops have 
murdered governors and governors imprisoned or deported 
archbishops. The monastic orders at times have revolted 
against both and even set at defiance the king himself. 

"A dozen volumes would be incapable of containing the 
history of intrigue, conspiracy, and murder connected with 
the various incumbents of that holy office since the days 
of Legaspi, so we will pass along to the Plaza McKinley, 
formerly the Plaza of Spain, upon which is located the 
famous Ayuntamiento, the headquarters of Civil Govern- 
ment in the islands. This building at present contains 
the offices of the Civil Governor and Commissioners, be- 
sides several minor bureaus belonging to the government. 

[14] 



COMMERCIAL OPPORTUNITIES 

Formerly the Ayuntamiento was the office of the Spanish 
Governor General and centre of the old regime. 

''The large church on the Plaza, over there, built in 
Byzantine-Roman style, is the cathedral, which, like a 
number of the other churches, has been rebuilt several 
times. Until recently the archbishop celebrated an annual 
service in honor of San Andrew, who was supposed to 
have been responsible for the defeat of Limahong, the 
Chinese invader in 1670. On this occasion the Spanish 
colors were spread upon the aisle for the archbishop and 
a procession of priests to tread upon, as a symbol of the 
supremacy of Church over State. Shortly after the fall 
of Manila two American soldiers ventured into the 
cathedral on such an occasion and were furnished with 
small American flags to throw in the aisle as the pro- 
cession passed by. Greatly to the credit of these men, 
they stuck their flags in their hat bands and left the church, 
saying they would be blanked before they would let. any 
one tread on their flag, although the men were Catholics. 

''At the foot of Calle Santo Thomas, near the wall, you 
will see the famous church of Santo Domingo and on the 
opposite side of the street the college of Santo Tomas and 
the justly celebrated museum which belongs to it. The 
museum contains a rare and valuable collection of sea 
shells, birds, fishes, mammals, and miscellaneous articles 
of native manufacture and origin. Among the collections 
are several exceedingly large skulls exhumed from tumuli 
in the southern islands. No definite information has ever 
been obtained as to the origin of this extinct people, who 
evidently disappeared before the second wave of settlers, 
now composing the present civilized tribes, came to the 
islands. Among the interesting specimens in the museum 
is the mounted skin of a python over thirty feet long. 

"We will now pass through the arsenal grounds and 
visit the old Fortress of Santiago, overlooking the Pasig, 
where scenes of cruelty, torture, and bloodshed were 
enacted which no doubt would compare favorably with the 

[15] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

most cruel incidents of the Spanish Inquisition during the 
]\Iiddle Ages. This old castle, with its dungeon cells, was 
begun in 1591, but not thoroughly completed for many 
years afterwards. Dungeons below the bed of the Pasig 
River with skeletons chained to the walls were found after 
the capture of Manila by the Americans. Some of these 
cells were connected with the river by means of small in- 
takes, which enabled the authorities to dispose of unde- 
sirable and troublesome prisoners with little trouble and 
less notoriety. 

** Thousands of unfortunates have passed through this 
grim old prison, some to give up their lives on the Luneta 
and others to go to distant penal colonies from which they 
would never return. In 1896, during the final uprising, 
over one hundred and twenty-five suspects were crowded 
into a small cell with but one window. The sergeant of 
the guard closed the window during the night, whether 
by accident or design is not known, and the next morning 
over half of the poor wretches were found dead. A veri- 
table Black Hole of Calcutta on the eve of the twentieth 
century. 

*'We will now cross to the Malecon Driveway over the 
bridge connected with the main entrance and notice the 
monument standing on the bank of the Pasig. It was 
erected there by the Spanish government to commemorate 
the valiant Don Simon de Anda for expelling the British 
from the islands in 1764. Our British cousins in Manila 
have not stopped laughing yet over the joke, for the fact 
is the English left of their own free will, after a treaty 
between the French and Spanish governments in 1764. 
If John Bull had elected to do so, I presume that the Eng- 
lish Jack would be floating over Fort Santiago to-day. 

"The Malecon Driveway, which is a beautiful avenue 
leading to the Luneta through rows of royal palms, be- 
longs to the system of roads and parks laid out by the 
Spaniards. You will notice the carefully arranged walks 
with benches which have been provided for the pedestrians. 

[16] 




o 

I— I 

Q 

< 

H 

»— ( 

Cu 

Ol 

O 

>^ 
< 

< 

Q 
w 

Hi 



w 
H 
H 

rr, <-! 
I-H 

W 

H 

O 

w" 

o 

3: 

o 

>-* 
►J 

H 



COMMERCIAL OPPORTUNITIES 

''Before the arrival of the Americans the Malecon 
Driveway extended along the margin of the Bay, while 
now it lies almost half a mile away. It must have been 
a charming place for a drive or promenade during the 
evening hour, before American energy and enterprise 
transformed its environment, and I can imagine no greater 
pleasure than to have watched the brilliant sunsets over 
the Bataan Mountains, while enjoying the balmy breezes 
from the bay and listening to the musical lapping of the 
waves at one's feet. 

''During the process of deepening the harbor quite 300 
acres of land have been reclaimed, which in time will be- 
come valuable and no doubt in the near future will be 
covered with factories, go-downs, wholesale houses, and 
railroad spurs. You can see from here that the Govern- 
ment has already built several large wharves and is going 
ahead with others. The harbor within the breakwater is 
deep enough to float vessels of twenty-six feet draught at 
present and it is the intention to continue the work until 
the largest ships can enter and unload. 

"We will now continue our drive down the Malecon to 
the Luneta which permits a good view of Cavite across the 
bay, seven miles away. You will also have an excellent 
opportunity to note the height of the walls which en- 
circle the city, completed about 1590 and, it is said, built 
entirely by Chinese labor. Originally the walls were sur- 
rounded by a deep moat which on our arrival in 1898 had 
practically become filled up with filth, sewage, and dank 
vegetation. 

"They were finally completed during the administra- 
tion of Governor Dasmarinas and served an excellent pur- 
pose during the days of the Moro pirate and Dutch buc- 
caneer, but now they have become a hindrance to the free 
circulation of air, an obstacle to traffic, and a barrier to 
municipal growth, so they will have to go, although the 
wail of the sentimentalist prevents their demolition at 
present. Already one of the most beautiful gates of the 
2 [17] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

walled city has disappeared and the entrance widened to 
make way for the increased traffic. 

''We have now arrived at the famous Luneta, which 
for ages has been the evening resort of the music-loving 
populace of Manila, as well as the scene of tragedy and 
death. 

''On the corner of the Malecon drive just opposite the 
Luneta you will observe that beautiful and artistic monu- 
ment erected in honor of Legaspi and Fray Urdaneta, 
who were sent by the zealot Philip in 1564 to conquer 
these islands by the cross and sword. To the right in the 
group stands the great Adelantado holding aloft the com- 
mission from his king, while to the left and rear is 
Andres de Urdaneta, friar, soldier, and sailor, with the 
uplifted cross of Christ in the right hand and his loving 
message under the left arm. Each has left his impress 
upon the country, the people, and their history. For 
good or bad, both sword and cross has played its role 
during those three centuries and a half of intellectual re- 
striction, cruel government, and moral abandon. 

"On these hallowed grounds Doctor Jose Rizal, patriot 
and author, freely surrendered his life that his country 
might be liberated from the monastic government which 
for generations had fastened itself upon his people like 
a remorseless vampire. The holy fathers who had wan- 
dered far from the loving precepts of their Master and 
from the basic principle of celibacy among these gentle 
and ignorant natives, were unable to undergo the truth- 
ful but caustic criticism of 'Noli me tangere' and 'Fil- 
ibusterismo,' * so they issued the mandate that Rizal must 
die. 

"After trial by a packed jury and the death sentence 
signed by that miserable tool of the friars, Polavieja, here, 
on this very spot, the great Rizal died surrounded by a 
jeering Spanish crowd and three hundred uncompromising 

* Two novels on Philippine life and conditions, by J. Rizal. 

[ 18 ] 



COMMERCIAL OPPORTUNITIES 

members of the monastic orders, who felt relieved in his 
death. See how peaceful the Luneta looks to-day, how 
tranquil under the fair canopy of a cloudless sky, its 
borders laved by the blue Bay of Manila. My friends, 
were all the innocent blood that has been shed on this 
beautiful Luneta poured out upon it during the evening 
assemblage the hundreds gathered here would have to 
wade through it ankle-deep. 

*'Here the native priests Gomez, Burgos, and Father 
Zamora, eighty-five years old at the time, were shot to 
death because they preached the rights of the Council of 
Trent. Roxas, Abella, and a thousand other illustrious 
Filipinos offered up their lives on this sacred spot that 
their sons and daughters might escape the tyranny of 
Spain, and call these verdant isles 'Patria.' 

''What changes a few years have wrought in the old 
Luneta, and hoAV the scenes have shifted since the days 
of the volunteer army, which came from far across the 
sea to rescue a down-trodden race. Yes, and how many 
of those brave sons of America have I seen, after the strife 
was ended, sitting here on these benches, with saddened 
faces turned toward the setting sun, dreaming of mother, 
sweetheart, home, and loved ones. But we have dwelt long 
enough on these sad memories, gentlemen," concluded the 
Major, "and since it is about the hour of tiffin, I move 
that we proceed to the club, and finish our rambles of 
Old Manila later in the day." 



[19] 



CHAPTER III 

RAMBLES THROUGH OLD MANILA 

The New City Hall and Columbian Road — The First 
Reserve Hospital — Insular Printing Press — Botan- 
ical Garden — Government Refrigerating Plant — 
Secret Society of Santa Cruz — The Shopping Dis- 
trict — BiLiBiD Prison — San Lazaro and the Lepers 
— Andres Bonifacio and the Katipunan — Sanita- 
tion OF Manila — The Governor's Palace — The Liv- 
ing Cemetery of Pandacan — A Modern Joan of Arc. 

VAMONOS, mis amigos/' said the Major after finish- 
ing tiffin, *'let "US return to the Bagumbayan, which 
we left at noon, and continue our rambles through Old 
Manila. 

** Above us on the boulevard you will see the new City 
Hall and, to the right across the fields toward Malate, you 
will observe the progress made on the Columbian Road 
which is destined to become one of the principal drive- 
ways of the city. The city fathers have planted on each 
side rows of the fire tree, which is noted not only for its 
fiery blaze of glory when in bloom, but for its exquisite 
foliage and dense shade as well. Ten or fifteen years hence 
this handsome boulevard, when in bloom, will eclipse any 
avenue of the kind in the world. What a fitting tribute 
such a monument would prove to the distinguished dis- 
coverer of these islands and what a pity it is not to be 
known as 'La Avenida de Magallanes.' 

'* Across the Calle de Concepcion you notice the plant 
of the Civil Government Printing Press, which has always 
been a credit to the United States. 

[20] 



RAMBLES THROUGH OLD MANILA 

''Immediately behind stands the Division Hospital, 
affectionately known during the Philippine Insurrection as 
the Old First Reserve. This building was erected for the 
sick and wounded of the Spanish army, quite on modern 
plans. The construction of this hospital alone will atone, 
I feel sure, for many of the shortcomings of the Dons, 
when we consider it in the light of the. great blessing it has 
proved to thousands of our sick and wounded soldiers. 

''Beyond we pass the Botanical Garden with its zo- 
ological exhibit which stands very high among the gar- 
dens of the East on account of the great variety of trees 
it contains. The Philippines are noted for their variety 
of valuable hardwoods which are destined some day to 
become one of the great sources of wealth of the islands. 
Few Americans realize the number of these trees, some 
of which bear beautiful and fragrant flowers. Veritably 
the primeval forests of the Philippines, during the period 
of bloom, enhanced by the plumage of hundreds of kinds 
of birds within its foliage, may be likened unto a gorgeous 
flower garden. 

"Farther along towards the Pasig, between the Santa 
Cruz and Suspension bridges, you. will note the Refrigera- 
ting Plant built by Uncle Sam in 1899 for the use of the 
boys in khaki and the Civil Government. This plant is 
capable of turning out 5,000 tons of ice daily and re- 
frigerating enough meat and other supplies to last an 
army of 100,000 men a year. The cost was nearly a mil- 
lion gold, but it has paid for itself twice over already, 
though I am not sure it has proved a financial success. 
At the close of the Insurrection, when the army was re- 
duced from 80,000 to less than 20,000, the War Depart- 
ment sold it to the Civil Government at cost. 

"We will now cross the Santa Cruz bridge, which 
consisted merely of piers on the evacuation of the islands 
by Spain. The Americans have done much for Manila in 
the way of public improvement, not the least of which has 
been bridge work. The old Bridge of Spain was widened 

[21] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

twenty feet, as well as the Ayala bridge which was also 
straightened. 

''Notice that old stone house over there on the corner 
opposite the main entrance to the church, for it is said 
that the Cavite uprising in 1872 was the result of a secret 
society organized there. Padre Mariano, the parish priest, 
w^as the president of this society which had for its object 
the creation of a more liberal feeling toward the Filipinos 
in Madrid. 

"The society met in the bottom of a large cistern, the 
upper portion of which was arranged to hold water. The 
proceedings of the society were published in Madrid in a 
periodical known as the Eco de Filipinas and clandestinely 
introduced into the islands and native circulation. But 
with the confessional and other means at hand the society 
did not last long. It is claimed by historians that several 
of the Spanish friars became members of the organization 
and, while apparently genuinely in sympathy with the 
movement, incited to insurrection the troops of Cavite and 
afterwards on investigation involved the three native 
priests, Burgos, Gomez, and Zamora, besides hundreds of 
others who were shot or sent to some penal colony. 

"We will now pass down the principal retail shopping- 
street for the American and European population. Here, 
on the Escolta, are located La Estrella del Norte, the fa- 
mous Spanish jewelry store of Manila, Watson's depot for 
drugs, soda and Scotch, The Extremenia, Paris-Manila, 
and a dozen other celebrated bazaars where the wives of 
officers and officials turn their husbands' money loose with 
great regularity at the end of each month. 

"Old Manila, as you see, has awakened from its siesta 
of nearly four centuries and the energy of the new world 
is felt everywhere along its streets and waterways to-day. 
Electric cars of the most improved model glide rapidly 
along its avenues and boulevards while the surrounding 
harrios of Santa Mesa, Santa Ana, San Juan del Monte, 
and Tondo are brought into the closest relation with the 

[22] 



'.^V:. 




Igorot Village, Bontoc ProvixNce, Philippines 



RAMBLES THROUGH OLD MANILA 

city. Even the far away suburban pueblos of Malabon, 
Caloocan, and Pasig are becoming centres of country 
residences. 

' * Let us drive down Calle Rosario and take a look at our 
queued citizens from the Flowery Kingdom, the Jews of 
the East. You will see them busy in their bazaars selling 
colored prints, muslins, and articles of hardware, and hag- 
gling with their patrons even over a pitiful centavo. Poor, 
miserable wretches, their history, like that of their less 
fortunate Filipino brother, is filled with pages of extor- 
tion, massacre, and banishment. 

''From the very earliest days of Spanish settlement the 
Celestial became marked as a victim for church and state 
because he was frugal, industrious, rich, and a pagan. 
What better reason for applying the thumbscrew to the 
wealthy pagan when the church needed a donation, or an 
interested Chinaman desired as bride a Filipino maiden ? 

"Freedom to engage in business in Manila and marry 
d Christian woman came high to the Chinaman and also 
at times, even the privilege of living. Four times during 
Spanish domination were the Chinese literally swept out 
of existence through ruthless and unprovoked massacre. 
Edicts were issued for the banishment of the remainder 
who did not accept the teaching of the Church. During 
the absence of the Chinese between such periods, gaunt 
famine swept over the land, for there was no one to till 
the soil, so poor John was invited back to wait again the 
culmination of the ire and hatred of the Church and suc- 
ceeding generations. 

"So now, honest, old pig-tailed John, enjoy your pros- 
perity, your fat bank accounts, and your happy homes and 
fear no longer the whim, caprice, or malignancy of creed 
or state. God has placed Old Glory over these islands to 
shelter and protect every man, woman, and child in the 
rightful exercise of freedom in religion, thought, and 
speech. 

"We will now cross the Estero de Meysic, near the old 

[23] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

Oriente Hotel, and drive to the Paseo de Azcarraga, the 
great boulevard upon which is located Bilibid prison, the 
very name of which struck terror to thousands of both 
criminal and innocent people a few years ago of which it 
could have been truthfully said, 'He who enters here 
leaves hope behind.' On the arrival of the Americans, 
hundreds of wretches were found in its cells, who had been 
imprisoned for many years without trial or hearing. 

*'01d men — and women, too — had been there so long 
that they had even forgotten name and family and equally 
had been lost sight of by the loved ones at home ; men who 
had been denounced away up country as filibusters and 
undesirable, because caught in the possession of some lit- 
erature beyond the elementary catechism of their native 
dialects, or because they had neglected to kiss the padre's 
hand on passing that religious autocrat on the street. 
There was no fairness in the land among the hordes of 
officials who filled the ranks of the civil list and monastic 
orders. Truly Justice was blind and Mercy asleep. 

*'In the corner of the Administration Building, over 
there, asleep for all time to come, you will notice that grim 
implement of death, the dreaded garrote, by means of 
which time-honored Spanish instrument of torture, the 
well-founded wails and complaints of hundreds of guile- 
less Filipinos were silenced forever. 

''Let us leave old Bilibid with its sad history and fol- 
low the Calle Cervantes, out past the hospital of San 
Lazaro to the picturesque Church of La Loma which sets 
high on the surrounding hills overlooking Manila and the 
bay. San Lazaro was the home of the lepers until a few 
years ago when they were transferred to the fertile island 
of Culion, with all the care and comforts that a generous 
government could provide. 

"It is said that leprosy was unknown in the islands 
until 1602, when the Great Shogun, leyasu of Japan, 
sent a ship-load to the Philippines on hearing that the 
good friars loved to care for the sick and afflicted. This 

[24] 



RAMBLES THROUGH OLD MANILA 

grim joke will be appreciated by those who know the true 
history which led to this act. About that time the friars 
of the Philippines flocked to Japan to convert the heathen. 
The shogun had no objection to the religious motive of 
the friars, but feared their political tendencies and possible 
governmental control later. He said he had noticed this 
invariable tendency of the Church in other countries where 
its creed had taken root and for this reason, it is said, 
ordered their banishment from the empire. The holy 
fathers protested they came because they loved to care for 
the sick and afflicted. leyasu was far-sighted; the friars 
were returned to the Philippines and with them the ship- 
load of lepers. 

*'We will now drive down to the harrio of Tondo, the 
dirtiest but most populous in the city. Here we will find 
one of the great cocking-mains of the city, centre of a vice 
which has become the curse of the race, the chief barrier 
to its prosperity and general improvement. Most un- 
fortunately this besetting sin was encouraged both by State 
and Church, partly because its revenues brought wealth 
and partly because the slogan with the Government had 
ever been * Amuse the Indian, but keep him poor and 
ignorant. ' 

''Not far from the old Tondo church which you see over 
there towards the bay, stands the house of Andres Boni- 
facio, where the famous Katipunan society originated. 
After the banishment of Rizal to Dapitan, Mindanao, and 
loss of his powerful influence together with the suppression 
of the Liga de los Filipinos^ Bonifacio organized the society 
of the Katipunan, which rapidly extended among thousands 
of natives in the provinces and eventually became a menace 
to the Government. The ritual of the order was copied 
from certain forms of freemasonry, which was more or less 
popular in the islands at the time, together with the Pacto 
de Sangre, the Oath of Blood. The monastic orders were 
instructed by Nozelado, at the time archbishop of the archi- 
pelago, to ferret out the meeting-places of its members 

[25] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

in order that they might be brought to justice. Through 
the confessional Padre Mariano Gil secured information 
from the wife of a member that a meeting was to take place 
that very night at her home. The place was surrounded 
and more than a hundred men captured and taken to 
Fort Santiago. It was a portion of these men who died 
of suffocation that night in the old fortress, of which I 
spoke this morning. The remaining members fled the city 
in every direction and thus began the movement which led 
to the engagement shortly afterwards at San Juan del 
Monte, the battle at Imus under Aguinaldo, and the subse- 
quent treaty of Biac-nabato, where the Insurrectionary 
leaders were paid $400,000 to keep a peace they never 
kept. 

'*I spoke incidentally of the insanitary condition of 
Tondo on the arrival of the Americans. Manila was in a 
highly insanitary condition all over, but this barrio was 
positively filthy. The cleaning process to which Manila 
was subjected and the results which followed will ever 
remain one of the greatest triumphs of American energy 
and enterprise in the Orient. At this time bubonic plague 
was general, smallpox and leprosy commonly observed 
on the streets, and, to cap the climax, Asiatic cholera sud- 
denly leapt across the China Sea from Hong Kong. The 
Board of Health sat night and day for months, sanitary 
inspecting squads were organized, and rigid measures en- 
forced through laws and city ordinances. 

**No one can understand how an epidemic of such ter- 
rible malignancy as that which visited the islands in 1902 
was kept under such wonderful control unless one makes 
a careful study of the work of the Board of Health at the 
time. During previous epidemics as many as 3,000 deaths 
occurred in Manila in a single day. With a larger pop- 
ulation and sanitary conditions equally bad, there was 
never a day when the deaths exceeded thirty or forty dur- 
ing this epidemic. It must be remembered that at this 
time there was no sewer system, the slops were thrown 

[26] 




The Army Club, Camp McKinley, near Manila 




Fort Santl^go and Anda monument, Manila 



RAMBLES THROUGH OLD MANILA 

around the premises of the houses and the natives ate 
with their fingers which frequently were infected. In 
order to obtain results, rigid measures became necessary, 
cleanliness was enforced, modern sanitary methods car- 
ried out. 

*' During previous epidemics church processions to San 
Roque and the sale of amulets were the order of the day. 
The friars were open enemies of the Americans and still 
had sufficient influence with the ignorant and superstitious 
native to make him believe that the Board of Health had 
entered into collusion with the Evil One. There was no 
cooperation and consequently the Board had an uphill 
fight. The native did not mind the visitation of cholera, 
plague or smallpox — why should he? They were pen- 
ances sent by God as punishment for his religious dere- 
lictions and shortcomings, or perhaps because they had 
failed to make more liberal contributions to the church, 
and finally because they had been on friendly relations 
with the heretical Americans who were ostracized from the 
society of all honest and decent Christian people. 

'* Besides the native was a fatalist and was satisfied 
that, do what he would, nothing could stave off the evil 
hour of death. A Filipino, executed a few months ago 
at Bilibid for murder, struck the key-note to this all- 
prevailing belief among the Filipinos when he said, 'It 
was my destiny to destroy. I could not escape from the 
commission of crime. It is in the blood of the Malay and 
was bom in my ancestors who came from the foot of 
the Himalaya Mountains ages ago. God has placed the 
ban on our people and, try as we may, we cannot avert 
what is to be. Do what you will with my poor body in 
the way of punishment, you are only making me atone 
for the sins of my forefathers.' 

''Well, gentlemen, it is getting late and, in order to 
finish our day's itinerary in time for dinner, we must 
hurry along. We have not shown our guest the Governor 's 
Palace, so we will proceed to the Malacanan via the Boule- 

[27] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

vard Iris. This commodious residence of the Spanish 
Governor-general occupies, as you see, large shaded 
grounds and is located on the banks of the Pasig River 
just opposite the village of Pandacan, which was noted 
as a cemetery for the living during the insurrection. 

''You look surprised, Mr. Rhodes; but, like the Queen 
of Sheba, who spoke of King Solomon, the half has not 
been told. Yes, quite a number of natives were bagged 
right here in Manila and buried alive by the insurrectos, 
simply because they had become American sympathizers 
and assisted our government. You can form no idea at 
this peaceful date of the difficulties we had in putting 
down the Insurrection with practically the entire Filipino 
race arrayed against us actively or passively. 

"As we pass over the Ayala Bridge, please observe that 
large rain tree on the island in the Pasig River, upon 
which is built the insane asylum. You will notice that 
the island is connected with this bridge, which is famil- 
iarly known as the Crooked Bridge, because on our arrival 
it made an angle at the juncture of the asylum entrance. 

*'I was about to tell you that during one of the skirm- 
ishes between our troops and the Filipinos, a number of 
our men were shot down on the other side of the bridge 
near the great Germinal Cigar Factory which you see 
over there. The enemy not being visible, our men began 
a search for the point of concealment and finally discoverd 
that the fire proceeded from the top of that large rain 
tree behind the chapel of the asylum. A file of the men 
made a detour by crossing the river a short distance be- 
low, and finally got in rear of the enemy above the island. 
A lanky Tennessean who was with the party brought the 
sharpshooter down from the tree by a lucky shot, when, 
lo and behold! he turned out to be a native woman, a 
veritable 'Joan of Arc of the twentieth century. 

''From my experience with the men and women of the 
Philippine Islands, I am willing to believe that, had the 
women gone into the trenches and the men remained home 

[28] 



RAMBLES THROUGH OLD MANILA 

with the children, the war would have been goin^ on yet. 
Yes, the Filipino women are far superior to the men, for 
they embody all that is good, courageous, and enterprising 
in the race. 

''This poor patriotic woman may have tried to emulate 
unhappy Rizal's widow, a pretty Irish lassie in the 
twenties, who swore vengeance against the Spaniards and 
immediately after the execution of her husband took the 
field with Aguinaldo's army. It is said that, unassisted, 
she killed two Spanish officers at the battle of Imus 
m 1896. 

*'Well, gentlemen, we have reached the cluh and I 
trust that I have acquitted myself with credit as a guide. '* 

''Major, you have done well for an amateur, ^^ replied 
the Judge, ''and I am sure Mr. Rhodes will join me in ex- 
tending our thanks.'' 

"I certainly have enjoyed my trip through Manila 
under the Major's guidance and only regret that I am not 
able to spend an entire week with you both in looking over 
the nooks and crannies of historic Old Manila." 

''I am afraid you will have to postpone further investi- 
gation until you visit the Philippines again, Mr. Rhodes," 
said the Judge, ''for to-morrow, at noon, we sail for the 
Land of the Rising Sun." 



[29] 



CHAPTER IV 

FAREWELL TO MANILA 

The Arrival and Departure of the Monthly Transport 

— Return to the Homeland — The Army Transport 
Service — State Galleons or Naos de Acapulco — 
The Military Order of the Carabao — The Farewell 
Wallow — Song to the Carabao — The Government 
Dougherty and Army Mule — The Sick Passenger 

— Farewell to Manila. 

npHE monthly arrival of an army transport from San 
-■- Francisco, or the departure of one from Manila for 
the homeland, marks one of the most important and ex- 
citing events of military life in the Philippines at the 
present time, since the Insurrection is over and peace 
reigns throughout the islands. Months in advance the 
sailing dates of regiments that will have completed their 
term of tropical service in the Philippines are fixed by 
the War Department, as well as that of the officers and 
enlisted men belonging to the different staff corps who 
likewise have completed theirs. In addition to the above 
a large number of men are ordered home for discharge, 
furlough, and transfer as patients to the General Hospital 
at the Presidio of San Francisco. 

Besides the officers, enlisted men, officers' and soldiers* 
families, and servants, who are entitled to transportation, 
applications are favorably considered, when there are 
extra accommodations, from officers of the navy and the 
marines, members of the civil service, government em- 
ployees, and their families. So one can readily imagine 
the great variety of passengers to be found in the sailing 

[30] 



FAREWELL TO MANILA 

list of an army transport homeward bound from the 
Philippines. 

During the spring and summer months a large number 
of officers and their families visit Japan and are furnished 
transportation as far as Nagasaki, the only Japanese port 
touched by our transports on the homeward trip. 

Those conversant with the early history of the Philippine 
Islands will recall the annual sailing of the State galleons, 
the Naos de Acapulco, which, for two centuries or more, 
were sent home by the colonial government via Mexico, 
laden with officials, soldiers, civil passengers, and articles 
of commerce, which in a way corresponds to our transport 
service of to-day. 

For weeks in advance of the sailing date, officers and 
their families, enlisted men and others, who had secured 
passage, were gathered in Manila from the southern 
islands and distant provinces, preparatory to the day of 
departure. As a result of this influx of strangers the 
hotels and boarding-houses, as well as the homes of hos- 
pitable friends, were tested to their utmost capacity. All 
of the rooms in the Army and Navy Club were doubly 
and trebly occupied, while extra cots filled the halls and 
every unoccupied nook and cranny about the building. 
The many inconveniences entailed by the overcrowding 
were entirely overlooked by the eager travellers, for they 
were going home, back to loved ones and to *' God's own 
country. ' ' 

Army and navy men, and the women as well, are good 
travellers and in the course of their lives become accus- 
tomed to long absences from home and friends and easily 
adapt themselves to the new station, wherever it may be. 
Should you misjudge their desire to return to the home- 
land through your association with them in the Philip- 
pines where everything may appear to be as merry as a 
marriage bell, just mention the fact that orders have been 
received sending them home and watch the effect. Why, 
the most confirmed bridge-whist devotee among the ladies 

[31] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

would throw down a perfect no-trump hand to run home 
and begin packing. 

The incoming and outgoing of an army transport re- 
sults in a regular gala week for Manilaites and a profitable 
financial fiesta for the hotelman and shopkeeper. 

Before 6 a.m. I had been awakened by the noise 
and bustle of my prospective shipmates, who were pre- 
paring for the journey, and found myself in anything 
but an amiable frame of mind, probably for the reason 
that I had retired at 3 a.m. the night before after spend- 
ing an evening with the Carabaos. 

In accordance with a time-honored custom this mili- 
tary order had given a wallow to the departing members 
of the herd. The Carabaos represent a military society 
composed of commissioned officers who were on active 
duty in the Philippines during the Insurrection, which 
officially ended on the fifth of July, 1902. The name Car- 
abac was adopted in honor of the water-buffalo of the 
islands, a beast possessed of great patience and many use- 
ful qualities, for as a draft animal he is the reliance of 
the Far East. Without his patient willingness and en- 
during brawn, few of the army supplies, including the 
necessary rations of the men, would ever have reached 
their destination in the field. In other words, the Carabao 
assumed the duties of the government mule in field trans- 
portation during the Insurrection, and through his honest 
and patient services endeared himself to the army in the 
Philippines. 

Instead of a lodge, the order assembles in a corral, 
and in place of a meeting holds a wallow. Apart from its 
military significance, the society is noted for fun, humor, 
and good fellowship. The presiding officer has the title 
of the Grand Paramount, while the effective officer during 
the wallow is the Bombinero, who has authority, at any 
stage of the proceedings, to call the herd to refreshments. 
Sometimes during the most serious deliberations of the 
Chief of the Herd, Horn Winder, or the Chief of Mud, 

[32] • 




o 

W w 

u :^ 
> £: 

w 

^, 

O 

H 
O 

O 
O 



H 




w 

w 

CQ 

o 

w 
o 

> 

O J 
w 



FAREWELL TO MANILA 

on matters of the utmost importance, the Bombinero may 
call the herd to the trough to slake a thirst which threat- 
ens the lives of its members. A few stanzas of an ode 
to the patron saint of the order, which is always sung 
during a wallow, is reverentially inserted. 

THE CARABAO 

Patron Saint of the Illustrious Order of the Carabao 

Oh! Carabao, Old Carabao, 
Before they e'er could strike a blow 
Invading armies must await 
Upon thy slow and measured gait. 

For who can say that in his hand 
Abides the power at thy command*? 
'T is in thy mighty force to wield 
The fate of armies in the field. 

While many hundred men might fall, 
And Luzon scarce would miss them all, 
Should aught thy laden train betide, 
Disaster follows far and wide. 

Oh! Carabao, Old Carabao, 

Great monarch of the road art thou; 

Thy value rests in merit plain, 

Old toiler through the mud and rain. 

Well bearest thou thy lowly part, 
No weakness knows thy giant heart; 
With thy broad horn a single blow. 
Well could'st thou lay thy master low. 

Yet all thy strength thou bindest still, 
To slave and suffer at his will; 
And steady draw the weary load. 
Till death overtakes thee on the road. 

3 [33] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

Oh! Carabao, Old Carabao, 
Well could we place upon thy brow, 
A laurel wreath for work well done, 
In driving storm and scorching sun. 

In speaking of the question of land transportation in 
the Philippines, I think it only fair to inform the Amer- 
ican people about our superb army transport service, for 
I believe the average American citizen knows as much 
about it as I did before I reached Manila, and that cer- 
tainly was very little. Before the war with Spain we 
had no use for army transports for, with the exception 
of a few companies of infantry on duty in Alaska, our 
troops were stationed in the United States. 

As soon as war was declared, however, the transporta- 
tion of troops and supplies to Cuba became paramount and 
the problem temporarily solved by chartering all manner 
of steam-craft, many of which were scarcely fit for freight- 
ing cattle. By means of poorly equipped ships of this 
class, for which the Government paid outrageously high 
prices, our troops were likewise transported to Porto Rico, 
Honolulu, Guam, and the Philippine Islands. 

After Spain had unloaded her colonies on us and the 
transportation of troops across seas became a permanent 
service, the Government very wisely purchased the entire 
fleet belonging to the Atlantic Transportation Company, 
which owned a number of stanch steamers engaged in 
freighting live-stock to Europe. These vessels were thor- 
oughly overhauled, fitted up, and converted into the most 
up-to-date troop-ships that were ever placed in commission, 
and that is saying a great deal, for it must be remembered 
that England, France, Germany, Holland, Italy, and Rus- 
sia have for many years employed transports for their 
colonial service and were presumed to be experts in their 
construction. 

The newly remodelled ships were christened the Thomas, 
Sheridan, Sherman, Logan, Grant, Buford, Meade, Han- 

[34] 



FAREWELL TO MANILA 

cock, McClellan, Kilpatrick, and Sumner, in honor of 
some of our general officers who distinguished themselves 
during the war between the North and the South. 
Now that the army in the Philippines has been reduced to 
a few thousand men and entirely removed from Cuba, 
it has become necessary to reduce the transport service, 
so that many of them, like their honored namesakes, re- 
main only in the grateful memory of those whose country 
they so gallantly served in time of need. The Thomas, 
Sheridan, Sherman, Logan, and Crook are still on the 
regular schedule to Manila from San Francisco, while the 
KilpaU^ick, Meade, Buford, and Sumner are out of com- 
mission and idly lying at their buoys at San Francisco or 
Newport News, waiting — who knows when ? — for a call to 
the East again. 

I must not forget to mention that the Government has 
very wisely stationed three of our smaller transports in 
Philippine waters, the Warren, Liscum, and Wright, 
where they are performing a most useful purpose in 
transporting army passengers and supplies from Manila 
to the various ports of the archipelago. The larger troop- 
ships are capable of transporting two thousand enlisted 
men, one to one hundred and fifty cabin passengers, be- 
sides five or six thousand tons of supplies. 

During the alteration of the transports the Government 
spared no expense in making them comfortable and sani- 
tary. The men were provided with an excellent system 
of superimposed iron bunks, located in large squad rooms 
between well ventilated decks. Each bunk is provided 
with a good cotton mattress, sheets, and pillows, so that 
the men are insured most excellent sleeping arrangements 
on the long voyages, which in some instances have taken 
two months. Each ship has likewise been provided with 
an abundance of shower baths and modern closets fitted 
up in apartments with tiled floors and marble wainscoting. 

The ice-plants and cold-storage rooms were constructed 
with a view to the transportation of beef and other per- 

[35] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

ishable supplies necessary for the troops serving in the 
tropics, so that the men are thus enabled to enjoy the best 
food en route. 

A well-regulated, modern hospital occupies the most 
comfortable portion of the ship for those needing its serv- 
ices en route to the islands, or for the accommodation of 
our brave and faithful men wounded in hostile action, or 
who have contracted tropical diseases through exposure in 
camp and field. 

Nothing has been omitted by our generous Government 
to lighten the burden of the officers and men who are sup- 
porting Old Glory in the Far East, and every one who 
was fortunate enough to have been a passenger on the 
Thomas when she made her maiden trip to Manila in the 
Fall of 1899, will remember with the greatest pleasure 
how the eyes of our English cousins were opened when 
they inspected her while lying at Gibraltar. 

The quartermaster who had superintended her altera- 
tion was in charge at the time, and no doubt keenly en- 
joyed the manifest surprise on the faces of the English 
general and staff, as he showed them about the ship. 
"When they had reached his well-appointed offices, fur- 
nished in polished mahogany, with handsome desks, dis- 
appearing typewriting machines, electric fans, and a well- 
stocked ice-box, the contents of which were generously 
passed around by the courteous host, they unconditionally 
surrendered and freely acknowledged that Uncle Sam had 
far outclassed all other nations in army troop-ships. 

This magnificent fleet is under the direct control of the 
quartermaster's department of the army, although navi- 
gated by a civil service sailing-master and crew. The 
quartermaster, who is detailed by the War Department, 
has entire charge of everything connected with the ship, 
except its navigation, and particularly looks after the ship- 
ping of the troops and passengers, assignment of cabins, 
care and preparation of the food, and the cleanliness and 
sanitation of the ship. 

[36] 



O 





w 

X 
H 

> 
Q 

12; 
< 

l-H 
W 



Ph 

w 

H 

O 

Q 
W 



H 
w 

w 
> 
o 

SO 



H 

<^ 

w 

O 

Q 

< 

o 

1/5 



C/5 
Pi 

M 



FAREWELL TO MANILA 

I have travelled across the Atlantic several times on the 
best-equipped transatlantic liners, over the China, East 
Indian, and Arabian seas, on first-class English and 
French steamers and am prepared to state that for solid 
comfort, pleasure, and security in the way of ocean travel, 
nothing excels our army transport service, so let us take 
off our hats to good old Uncle Sam and the transport 
quartermaster. 

Breakfast at the club was finally over and the race for 
the steamer, which was to sail at noon, began. Every 
conceivable class of wheel transportation was on hand out- 
side the club, from an unassuming carromato to the lordly 
touring-car of one of Manila's merchant princes or a mem- 
ber of the Civil Commission. In fact the collection of 
vehicles surrounding the club reminded the visitor of a 
district fair in the Orient. Prominently conspicuous 
among them were a number of time-honored Dougherties 
and escort wagons, which were ordered out for the use of 
the officers and families returning home. 

It was my good fortune to drive to the wharf in an old- 
fashioned government Dougherty, behind four of the snap- 
piest mules I have ever seen. The drive through the 
walled city out through the Postigo gate and down the 
Malecon to the wharf was of only a few moments' dura- 
tion, but that brief period, short as it was, will never be 
effaced from my memory. 

Any one who has failed to travel in a Dougherty wagon 
has never enjoyed one of the real pleasures of life and one 
of the genuine refinements of wheel transportation. He 
has missed something which has left a hiatus in his life 
and a blank that can never be filled until he finds himself 
at last safely seated in one of these classical army chariots, 
behind four snappy, faithful, and patriotic government 
mules, such as for generations have been the friend of the 
army at frontier posts and his ally in conducting cam- 
paigns against the hostile Indian from Canada to the Mex- 
ican border. 

[37] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

On my arrival at the wharf in company with my friends, 
the Judge and the Major, I found half of Manila there 
to bid their friends adieu and wish them a ho7i voyage. 
It was indeed a remarkable assemblage which met my 
gaze, one not easily forgotten. Leaning over the rail on 
the main deck were to be seen the bronzed but happy faces 
of hundreds of the young veterans, who had finished their 
tour and were going home to mothers, sweethearts, and 
loved ones. Above, on the hurricane deck, were the wives 
and families of the officers and their friends who came to 
say farewell. A few young Filipino boys who were re- 
turning with officers to whom they had become attached 
while serving as muchachos were among the crowd. Here 
and there among the happy faces one could easily detect 
the tear-stained eye of those who were only waiting to bid 
some loved one good-bye. 

Sitting apart from the others, I noticed the pale and 
sickly face of a woman who, too, was going home, although 
she appeared to be on the eve of departing to that eternal 
home from which no traveller returns. I asked the Major 
whether he considered it safe for her to undertake the 
long journey. *'I think it very doubtful," he replied, 
** whether she lives until the ship reaches Japan, but she 
wanted to go and the commanding general ordered her to 
be taken aboard in spite of the unfavorable report of the 
medical officers. You may not be aware of the fact," 
continued the Major, ''that during the early occupancy 
of the Islands, there was a regular stampede among the 
sick to go home and, through the sympathy of the surgeons, 
many were allowed to go, who were really unable to stand 
the trip and consequently died at sea. Since then a med- 
ical board has been organized to report upon all sick who 
are recommended for the States. 

''The commanding general would listen to no arguments 
against her going and even ordered that an army female 
nurse should accompany her when he was told that it was 
impossible for her to go alone. She is the wife of an 

[38] 



FAREWELL TO MANILA 

unsuccessful American merchant, who was unable to pay 
her passage on a liner and had doubtless worked upon 
the sympathies of the kind-hearted general. I greatly 
fear, Mr. Rhodes,'* continued the Major, ''that her dreams 
of meeting friends at home and of restoration to health 
will never be realized, for it is my honest opinion before 
the ship reaches the Golden Gate the good woman's soul 
will already have passed to its Maker." 

Five minutes before twelve the visiting friends of the 
passengers were requested to leave the ship and on the 
stroke of the hour ''let go the hawsers" was ordered and 
the stanch old ship glided quietly but gracefully out into 
the harbor amidst the shouts of farewell and best wishes 
from the crowd left behind on the wharf. 



[39] 



CHAPTER V 

THE PICTURESQUE ENVIRONMENT OF MANILA 

BAY AND THE NATIVE INSURRECTION 

OF 1896-7 

The Bay of Manila — The Church of La Loma — 
Shrine at Antipolo — Our Lady of Good Voyage and 
Peace — Her Voyages to Mexico — Mount Arayat — 
Alejandrino and the Golden Bait — The Insurrec- 
tion OP 1896 — Emilio Aguinaldo — Polavieja, Blan- 
co, AND Rivera — Nozaleda the Bloodthirsty — 
Iniquitous Land Laws — Battle of Imus — Capture 
OF the Town and Death of the Friars — Treaty of 

BlAC-NABATO. 

COME, Major," said the Judge, ''let us move forward 
on the upper deck with Mr. Rhodes and point 
out to him the interesting points along the coast en route 
to Mariveles." 

The day was clear and balmy and the sun shining as 
brightly as on a June day in Arizona, although we were 
in the midst of the rainy season. 

''I presume, Major, that this kind of weather must be 
very unusual at this season of the year, or perhaps the 
weather clerk has taken compassion on me, since I am a ten- 
derfoot in the tropics." 

''Not at all," replied the Major, "we have scarcely 
had any rainfall since the middle of August and a ter- 
rible wail has gone up all over Luzon among the rice 
growers who claim that the drouth will destroy the rice 
crop. I have been on duty in the islands, off and on, since 

[40] 



PICTURESQUE ENVIRONMENT 

the American invasion and have frequently observed ex- 
tended dry periods during the rainy season. The natives 
say, however, that this condition has only existed since 
the coming of the Yankees who, they claim, have changed 
everything, including the climate. I do not think any 
change has really occurred, since I have learned that, not 
unfrequently, there were failures in the rice crop from 
the same cause during Spanish domination. On account 
of these protracted dry periods during the wet season the 
government is working on plans to install an irrigation 
system throughout the islands." 

Our transport, which had but recently come out of the 
docks in San Francisco, was in excellent sailing trim and 
within a short ten minutes after leaving the wharf had 
passed through the breakwater and was slowly steaming 
towards Corregidor. 

The Bay of Manila, at the head of which lies the capital 
city, extends thirty miles inland from the China Sea, from 
which it is separated by Corregidor Island, the Friale, the 
Monja and several other rocky projections which afford 
excellent opportunity for fortifications and mines in case 
of war. 

The bay is almost as wide as it is long, so that it prac- 
tically forms an inland sea surrounded by picturesque 
mountains, fertile plains, and populous pueblos. 

Behind Manila to the north and west arises a succession 
of high, rolling hills, crowned by the beautiful church of 
La Loma, which stands up so conspicuously that, during 
the early days of the Insurrection, it became a target for 
the United States gunboats and even now bears many 
scars of shot and shell. 

At that time the Insurrectionary army had extended its 
lines from La Loma Church around to Caloocan on the 
right and Pasay on the left, which was only a few miles 
from Manila. 

Away back beyond Santa Mesa loom up the Caraballo 
Mountains, a spur of the Cordilleras of the archipelago, 

[41] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

on which is located the famous town of Antipolo and the 
holy shrine of * ' Our Lady of Good Voyage and Peace. ' ' 

There are a large number of wonderful shrines through- 
out the Philippines, but this is by far the most popular 
and miraculous of them all. The image, which is made 
of brass, was brought from Mexico in a State galleon by 
Governor Juan Niiio de Tabora, in the year 1626, and 
during the voyage calmed a tempest which imperilled the 
safety of the ship. On arrival in Manila it was received 
with salvos of artillery, ringing of bells, and extensive 
street processions. 

The governor built the original church for her at Anti- 
polo and it is stated in the church chronicles that during 
its construction the Virgin was seen quite frequently to 
ascend from the altar to the flowery branches of a neigh- 
boring tree called by natives Antipolo, from which she is 
commonly known as the ''Virgin of Antipolo." 

During the year 1639 the Chinese living in Manila rebelled 
against the Spanish authorities and attacked the sanctuary 
in which reposed this Holy Virgin, believing that she was 
their protectress, and cast her into the flames. When all 
else was reduced to ashes, she arose from the flames intact, 
resplendent in her beautiful hair, lace, ribbons, and other 
adornments, without a blemish. 

She was again sent to sea and made half a dozen voyages 
to Mexico and back, calming tempests and keeping off 
Dutch and English buccaneers. She made her final trip 
from Mexico in 1672 and was then conveyed joyously to 
her resting-place in the church at Antipolo. 

It is stated by the church chronicles that on her return 
along the road back to her mountain home ''there was 
not a flower which did not greet her by opening its bud, 
not a mountain stream which remained silent, whilst the 
breezes and the rivulets poured forth their silent murmur- 
ing of ecstasy." 

In spite of her wonderful power, however, a native his- 
torian states that the village of Antipolo and its neigh- 

[42] 



PICTURESQUE ENVIRONMENT 

borliood is the centre of brigandage, the resort of murder- 
ous highwaymen, and the focus of crime. However that 
may be, we know that thousands of the devout make a 
pilgrimage to Antipolo every year during the month of 
May and that the net receipts for one season to the Augus- 
tinian friars who guard the shrine were 300,000 pesos, which 
after all is not a bad business considering the drouth. 

Off to the north can easily be seen the symmetrical peak 
of Mount Arayat, miles away up in the province of Pam- 
panga, which the simple-minded natives still believe to be 
the original mount upon which the ark rested. Why should 
they not believe this to be the scene of that beautiful 
Biblical legend, which has permeated all peoples, whether 
through holy writ or tribal tradition? 

The good fathers, who had been the shepherds of their 
souls for three centuries and more did not disillusion them 
of their simple faith, but rather encouraged the idea and, 
through their financial cooperation and labor, caused a 
road with the twelve stations of the cross to be constructed 
up the mountain side, to the summit, upon which stands a 
handsome little church. 

Away up on the rough sides of Mount Arayat, Alejan- 
drino, a formidable insurgent general, held sway as 
late as the Summer of 1901. Although our troops were 
located all around the mountain sides, Alejandrino would 
swoop down upon the peaceful natives, procure what beef 
and rice were necessary for his troops, then return to his 
mountain aerie. General Funston and a number of officers 
tried in vain to capture him, but finally the Government 
threw out a golden bait, a three-thousand-dollar govern- 
ment position, which happily ended the war in Pampanga 
as far as Alejandrino was concerned. 

Along the coast line of the bay on the left as we ap- 
proach Cavite and beginning at the outskirts of Manila 
were plainly visible the spires of a number of churches 
which belong to the towns of Pasay, Paranaque, Las Piiias, 
Bacoor, Binacayan, Cavite Viejo, and Novalita, all of 

[43] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

which look quite picturesque peeping out from the dense 
groves of the royal cocoanut palms. 

''All of these pueblos you see over there," remarked 
the Major, ''are in the Province of Cavite, the home of Ag- 
uinaldo, and were deeply concerned in the Insurrection of 
1896. The Filipino people had been unhappy for many 
years and had exhibited their feelings on numerous occa- 
sions by small uprisings. Ever since the Insurrection of 
1872, as a result of which many innocent Filipinos were 
shot and hundreds imprisoned or banished to penal colo- 
nies, the spirit of the natives has constantly been in a state 
of unrest. There is no doubt but that for centuries the 
Filipinos have been a down-trodden race, deprived of per- 
sonal liberty, freedom of speech and press, and opportunity 
to elevate themselves through education and participation 
in political and local affairs. 

"While the natives did not object to Spanish govern- 
ment, they resented most bitterly the many deprivations 
to which they were subjected and endeavored by every 
fair and honest measure to secure a modicum of recogni- 
tion by colonial authority, which was practically a friar 
government. You may remember, Mr. Rhodes, that after 
the discovery of the Katipunans in Tondo by Padre Mari- 
ano Gil, the authorities made a raid on the lodge that very 
night and captured over three hundred of its members, 
the remainder fleeing to the country and opening hostili- 
ties without delay. 

' ' Several months before this outbreak the Katipunan so- 
ciety sent a delegation to Japan with a petition signed by 
5,000 members, praying the Mikado to annex the islands 
to his domain. The petition was returned through the 
Spanish governor-general, thus disclosing the names of the 
disaffected natives, many of whom were noted Filipinos 
and well known to the authorities. 

"The first battle occurred at Caloocan, which is only a 
few miles north of Manila, on August 26, 1896, in which 
3,000 native insurrectos were engaged. This was followed 

[44] 



PICTURESQUE ENVIRONMENT 

four days later by the battle of San Juan del Monte, which 
barrio adjoins Manila, west of Santa Mesa. 

"The native troops were poorly armed during both of 
these battles, having only a few guns and those of an in- 
ferior kind, while the Spanish soldiers were armed with 
Mausers. About 180 natives were killed in this engage- 
ment and a large number taken prisoners. The leaders 
were shot and the captives thrown in Bilibid or Santiago, 
which practically amounted to a death sentence at that 
time. 

*'It was during this period that Emilio Aguinaldo ap- 
peared on the political and sanguinary arena. He held the 
highly lucrative position of a country school-teacher at 
about twelve dollars per month, when he delivered his fa- 
mous proclamation at Silang, a pueblo at the base of Sungay 
Mountains in Cavite Province, which can be plainly seen 
as one looks across over Bacoor. The warmth and fervor 
of this address, which really reads like an eighth grade 
schoolboy's oration, drew the gente to him by the thousands 
and began an Insurrection which practically ended at the 
fall of Manila in August, 1898. The insurgents took pos- 
session of all the towns along the coast which I mentioned 
a few moments ago and held them until the arrival of Gen- 
eral Polavieja, four months later. 

**At the beginning of this uprising, General Blanco was 
governor-general, and even though he was a Spaniard, no 
one can deny the fact that he was a liberal-minded and 
generous-hearted soldier and statesman. Nozelado was the 
archbishop of the Philippines at the time and, whether de- 
servedly or not, had been given the name of the 'Blood- 
thirsty.' Pie advocated a termination of the Insurrection 
by fire, sword, and the wholesale execution of the insur- 
rectos. He never was in sympathy with Blanco's peaceful 
policy and succeeded in having him supplanted by Pola- 
vieja, who was known as the chosen Messiah of the friars, 
and publicly announced in the Madrid papers as the ' Gen- 
eral Cristiano.' It was Polavieja who convened that in- 

[45] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

famous court martial which sentenced Jose Rizal, the dis- 
tinguished Filipino statesman and patriot, to be executed 
and signed the death warrant. 

''Blanco thoroughly understood the Filipino people, ap- 
preciated the conditions which drove them to rebellion, and 
wanted to help them. He knew full well that, with merely 
a handful of European troops, it was worse than useless 
to institute a campaign against them and advised waiting 
until the arrival of more soldiers from Spain. But this 
did not suit the sanguinary archbishop, so Blanco had to 
go. 

' * In the meanwhile the insurrectos, now under the gener- 
alship of Aguinaldo, proceeded to capture the neighboring 
towns along the bay and fortify them. Imus, which lies 
four miles beyond Bacoor, was captured and held for many 
months. This town lies in a fertile plain of rich rice lands, 
several hundred thousand acres of which were owned by 
the Augustinian friars. How they managed to get pos- 
session of this valuable tract no one seems to know. It is 
a well-known fact, however, that the monks had no title to 
the land, even when it was sold to the Government several 
years ago. 

''The majority of the population of Imus were tenants 
of the Church, even of the very lot upon which their huts 
were built and for which they had to pay rent. The peo- 
ple were always poor and lived, as it were, from hand to 
mouth. When the crop was harvested, their debts paid, 
and the Church had taken its tithe for the use of the land, 
the poor native farmer found himself in debt, a condition 
from which he never emerged. 

"The Spanish laws made a debtor the slave of the cred- 
itor, even to the extent of being jailed. Moreover, the 
children became responsible for the debts of their father 
or grandfather and thus for generations Philippine fam- 
ilies were in bondage to the owners of the land upon which 
they lived. Practically the entire population of Imus, 
about twenty thousand, were tenants of the Church as 

[46] 




a; 

H 
a: 

< 

c 

Q 
< 



O '^ 
. < 

z' o 



S 



PICTURESQUE ENVIRONMENT 

small planters, and hence were doubly slaves. Church 
ownership of lands had for many years been a subject 
of much dissatisfaction among the natives and one of the 
causes of the frequent uprisings. 

*'The capture of Imus and the repudiation of the land 
tax was the cause of great rejoicing among the Imusites 
and they celebrated their victory in a most barbarous and 
cruel manner. 

''The Augustinians had built a large stone residence in 
the town for the use of the administrator of the estate and 
his assistants. The estate house was located in a ten-acre 
compound surrounded by a high stone wall which prac- 
tically made the place a fortress. Within the compound 
were located the granaries and go-downs in which was 
stored the grain belonging to the order. 

**As soon as the Insurrection had fairly started in Cav- 
ite Province all of the friars in the neighboring pueblos 
made their way to Imus for protection. Fifteen friars 
assembled there and were captured when Imus fell into 
the hands of the insurrectos, and it is with great regret 
I have to state that all of them, except one, were put to 
death. That poor fellow, a specially large and fat friar, 
escaped during the fight and wandered for days in the jun- 
gle. When he was rescued by the Spaniards he had become 
a raving maniac. One of the priests was cut to pieces, 
another was saturated with petroleum and set on fire, while 
a third was roasted over a spit, a bamboo pole having 
been run through his body to accomplish the purpose. 

*'It is a blot on the escutcheon of the insurrectos that 
they so cruelly and barbarously treated their prisoners 
of war. It may, however, be said in their defence that 
the three friars in question, while in power, had been mer- 
ciless in their dealings with natives and had had a number 
of them killed or expatriated, so that after all it simply 
was reciprocity. 

**The Insurrection dragged on for many weary months, 
although by this time the Spanish army had been recruited 

[47] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

up to 28,000 men. Poor old Polavieja, who at the onset 
had made such an energetic attack on the insurgents, be- 
came quite ill after the execution of Rizal and imagined 
he saw his ghost. The condition of the old fellow became 
pitiable finally and he begged the central government in 
Madrid to let him go home. So in April, 1897, he left 
for Spain and was relieved by General Primo de Rivera, 
who on arrival issued a proclamation of amnesty to all who 
would lay down their arms within a prescribed period. 

** Through the goodly services of Don Pedro A. Paterno, 
an influential and wealthy Filipino, overtures were made 
to Aguinaldo and his generals to make a treaty. The 
stipulations were for the Filipinos to deliver up all arms 
and ammunition and to agree to an armistice for three 
years, to evacuate all positions held by them and to con- 
spire no more. For acceding to these demands Rivera 
promised to pay the natives $700,000 for the losses they 
had sustained, and $1,000,000 besides as an honorarium; he 
promised that the friars should be expelled and the re- 
ligious orders secularized; that the Filipinos should be 
granted representation in Madrid and equality with the 
Spaniards, besides many reforms and a number of other 
minor provisions included in the treaty relative to taxes, 
schools, etc. It is said that this treaty was made in good 
faith by Aguinaldo and that a payment of $400,000 was 
deposited to his credit in Hong Kong. Aguinaldo and a 
number of the leaders went to China immediately after 
the treaty and the Insurrection was called off. Rivera left 
shortly afterwards for Spain where he was received with 
open arms and publicly congratulated by the crown. 

''This famous arbitration was known as the treaty of 
Biac-nabato, but it was never recognized by the Spanish 
Government. It is even said that Rivera denied that he 
had acceded to many of the stipulations which the treaty 
contained. 

"While the insurgents were occupying the pueblos along 
the Cavite coast Admiral Montojo would occasionally 

[48] 



PICTURESQUE ENVIRONMENT 

throw shells into their camp from his battleships lying in 
the bay. 

''Senor Topacio, a highly respectable Filipino now liv- 
ing in Imus, who participated in the uprising, informed 
me that the shells fell frequently into the rice paddies but 
rarely exploded. These were collected by the insurgents 
who extracted the powder, of which they stood in great 
need and by which they were enabled to continue the revo- 
lution. When they found their powder supply getting 
low, they would raise gaudy-colored flags along the shore 
which had the same effect upon the Spaniards that a red 
flag has on an infuriated bull, stimulating them to re- 
newed firing and more powder in consequence for the m- 
surrectos. 

''After the treaty of Biac-nabato, Rivera reported that 
hostilities were over and with Montojo and others awarded 
medals and praises for the splendid work of their army. 
In spite of Rivera's report, however, there were more hos- 
tile troops in the field when he left for Spain than ever 
before. ' ' 

By the time the Major had finished his account of the 
native Insurrection, our good old transport had cleared 
the breakwater and was slowly steaming down the bay, 
with the town of Cavite in our teeth, seven miles ahead, 
and numerous church spires appearing on our port along 
the palm-fringed shores of the famous insurrecto province 
of Old Cavite. 

''And now, gentlemen, as it is a quarter to one and a mon- 
itor within suggests the tiffin hour, let us go below. ' ' 



[49] 



CHAPTER VI 

DEWEY'S FIGHT WITH MONTOJO, AND THE SAIL 
DOWN THE BAY TO MARIYELES 

The Battle on Manila Bay — The Episode between 
Dewey and the German Admiral — English Officer ^s 
Reply to German Admiral — The Composition of the 
Spanish Fleet — The American Fleet — The First 
Broadside — Dewey's Retirement from the Line of 
Battle and Return — The Loss of the Spanish 
Transport Mindanao — The Spanish and American 
Casualties — The Island of Corregidor and the Vil- 
lage Harpists — ^The Loss of the Hooker — Arrival 
AT Mariveles. 

YOU must not forget, Major," said the Judge, after 
finishing tiffin and again reaching the upper deck, 
"that you have been appointed official guide for our 
party and should keep us posted on all matters of in- 
terest. ' ' 

Our transport had just reached a point opposite the 
town of Cavite and was floating over the historic spot 
where Dewey ended Spanish supremacy in the Far East 
forever. 

**You kindly gave us the details of the native uprising 
of 1896 this forenoon and now I would like very much to 
hear the particulars of Dewey's great sea fight." 

*'Yes, tell us about it. Major," urged the Judge, ''the 
circumstances must still be fresh in your memory, as you 
came over with the first relief expedition shortly after- 
wards. ' ' 

** Thank you, gentlemen," replied the Major, ''for the 

[50] 



DEWEY'S FIGHT WITH MONTOJO 

confidence you manifest in my historical knowledge. The 
events connected with that dreadful tragedy were thor- 
oughly imprinted on my memory after making an examina- 
tion of the wrecks of Montojo's once proud fleet which 
were not removed for months after my arrival. 

** Although the Spaniards were kept informed of 
Dewey's movements they did not realize that he would 
have the temerity to attack them in their stronghold. Be- 
sides, men-of-war belonging to England, France, Germany, 
and Japan were in the harbor at the time and the Span- 
iards believed that the combined nations would prevent 
hostile action on the part of the United States. They did 
not imagine that the four great nations represented in the 
bay would allow Dewey to begin hostile action under any 
circumstances. Perhaps they had gotten this erroneous 
impression from the German admiral who appeared any- 
thing but friendly to the Americans. 

* ' You have probably heard of Dewey 's reply, when asked 
by a German officer what he would do in case they refused 
to allow the Americans to inspect their ship during the 
blockade, in accordance with the custom of war. When 
Dewey told him that he would open fire on them at once, 
the German admiral reported the matter to the English 
admiral and asked him what he would do in case Dewey 
carried out his threat. 

** *Only Dewey and I know,' replied the gallant English 
sailor. 

*' Indeed before the arrival of Dewey, General Augusti, 
the governor-general, spoke most contemptuously of the 
Americans as soldiers, sailors, and gentlemen, and berated 
them as the social scum and excrescence of the earth. He 
furthermore advised the people to put their faith in Span- 
ish chivalry and the grace of God, which would never de- 
sert the faithful for a mob of heretics. 

''Nozelado, the Bloodthirsty, also assured his flock that 
four mighty Spanish battle-ships were en route to the Phil- 
ippines at that very time, had passed Singapore and, with 

[51] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

the mighty Montojo, would literally make hash of the 
American crew and kindling-wood of Dewey's battleships, 
if he dared enter Manila Bay. Besides, he told them that 
recently he had received direct information from the Al- 
mighty that the Spanish fleet would gain a great victory 
over the heretical Americans. 

' ' This statement regarding the four battle-ships en route 
to the Philippines was entirely erroneous for the reason 
that Spain had no such vessels beyond those already ac- 
counted for elsewhere. As to the omen from above, you, 
gentlemen, may draw your own conclusions. 

"In spite of these assurances of Spanish prowess and of 
the kindly oversight which the Lord was giving his pre- 
cious flock, many of the Spanish families, as well as other 
foreigners living in Manila, stampeded and left the city in 
undue haste. All of them who could muster sufficient 
money took passage for Hong Kong, although the trans- 
portation companies had cornered the market, as it were, 
on tickets and raised their prices three or fourfold. Kef- 
ugees offered any price to get away, while the poor Chi- 
nese, as usual, were robbed right and left. It is said that 
5,000 of them went back to China before Dewey arrived. 

"War being declared, the American fleet left Mir Bay 
on April 27, 1898, and put into Subig Bay, expecting to 
find the Spanish armada there. Montojo was not there, 
nor had the Spaniards sufficient foresight to plant the 
mouth of the harbor with torpedoes, which could have 
been easily done. However, they had mounted a few six- 
inch guns on Corregidor Island, at Punta Gorda, Punta 
Larisi, the Fraile and Caballo rocks. 

"When Dewey entered the Boca Chica and passed Cor- 
regidor Island, which he did about three o'clock in the 
morning, he found the lights out and everybody apparently 
asleep. It is recorded, however, that a single shot from 
the Fraile was fired after he had gotten well past the 
island. Without attempting to reply, he continued his 
course towards Manila, although all of the lights up the 

[52] 



n 

X 

n 

X 

> 
D 

n 

o 
z 
< 

m 
H 
W 

> 

r 




DEWEY'S FIGHT WITH MONTOJO 

bay had likewise been extinguished. Dewey must have 
experienced rather uncomfortable sensations as he con- 
tinued his course in the darkness with nothing to steer by. 
At dawn he had gotten well abreast of Cavite, where he 
found the Spanish fleet drawn up in line of battle, a few 
hundred yards from the shore under the protection of the 
forts at Point Sangley and Canacao. 

''When the Spaniards learned that the Americans had 
actually started for Manila, they at once changed the color 
of their ships from white to dark gray, the color generally 
employed by all warships during action. The Spanish 
fleet consisted of the Don Antonio de JJlloa, 1,200 tons, 
Isla de Luzon, 1,048 tons, Isla de Cuba, 1,048 tons, Reina 
Cristina, 3,500 tons, Don Juan d'Austria, 1,130 tons, 
Yelasco, 1,152 tons, and the Castilla, 3,260 tons, and was 
arranged in the order given from east to west. You will 
observe that the flagship, the Beina Cristma, occupied the 
centre of the line, immediately under the guns of Point 
Sangley. 

' ' The American fleet took a position immediately opposite 
the Spaniards, a couple of miles distant, in the following 
order: Olympia, 5,800 tons, Baltimore, 4,600 tons, Raleigh, 
3,200 tons, Boston, 3,000 tons. Concord, 1,700 tons, and the 
Petrel, 892 tons. So you see that the American fleet, 
which aggregated 19,992 in tonnage, was almost double 
that of the Spaniards, which amounted to 12,338. 

''Moreover, the American fleet was armed with 67 big 
guns, while the Spanish fleet had only 31, and they far in- 
ferior in every respect. With such odds in favor of the 
Americans no one could have failed to guess the outcome 
except a people so long steeped in the legends of the super- 
human, in national egotism, and conceit. 

"Dewey took his position about 5:40 a.m., and at once 
threw a broadside into the forts at Point Sangley and Ca- 
iiacao with the intention of silencing them. They were 
armed with a number of six-inch Hontario guns and re- 
plied quite lively for a few moments, damaging the Con- 

[53] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

cord and the Boston, which temporarily withdrew from the 
line to make repairs. 

*'The battle was now on in earnest and the Don Antonio 
de JJlloa opened up a broadside on the Olympia, which 
fortunately went wide of its mark, while at the same time 
the drums beat and the crew shouted, ' ' Long live the King 
and Queen of Spain." The incident might strongly sug- 
gest a combat between a bantam rooster and a full sized 
fighting-cock. 

**At this time the Don Juan d' Austria, which occupied 
the centre of the line, another bantam ship, advanced to- 
wards the Olympia and fired a broadside, but was driven 
back amidst a shower of shell with many casualties. The 
Reina Cristina then advanced toward the Olympia with 
full speed, intending to ram her, but likewise had to retreat 
with her decks strewn with the dead and the dying. By 
7:30 A.M. she was in flames and the Admiral was trans- 
ferred to the Isla de Cuba. Imagine poor old Montojo at 
this critical moment, his flagship in flames, himself trans- 
ferred to a little boat of only 1,048 tons, and all hope prac- 
tically gone. The captain of the Rcina Cristina was mor- 
tally wounded during the attempt to ram the Olympia but 
continued to command his ship until the moment of death. 
There is no doubt but that the Spaniards are game and 
are the last to show the white feather. 

*'By 8:00 A.M. all of the Spanish ships were so badly 
crippled that they could scarcely return the American fire. 
About this time Dewey signalled his fleet to retire to a dis- 
tance of several miles to the rear in order to replenish am- 
munition from his transports, which accompanied the fleet 
but were lying behind the English and German men-of-war, 
some distance from the firing line. 

''Before Dewey returned to renew action, which was 
about 10 A.M., the small gunboats Lezo, Duero, Manila, 
Velasco, and Argos, steamed up and ran ashore near Cavite 
with a view to their destruction. 

''The American fleet again opened fire on the two re- 

[54] 



DEWEY'S FIGHT WITH MONTOJO 

maining opposing ships, the Velasco and Isla de Luzon. 
The Beina Cristina and Castilla had burned to the water's 
edge and sunk, while the Don Juan d^ Austria was blown 
up and the UUoa destroyed by a shell. All hope now 
having disappeared, Montojo ordered his two remaining 
vessels to beach themselves on the shore near Bacoor, which 
they did, and thus ended Montojo 's fiery controversy with 
Dewey in the Bay of Manila, on May 1, 1898. 

** After disposing of the fleet, Admiral Dewey directed 
his fire on Fort Cavite and the Arsenal which, however, 
were unable to reply as they had no guns. In a short time 
Colonel Lastoa of the Spanish army hoisted a flag of truce 
and requested an armistice long enough to remove the 
women and children, which Dewey approved on the condi- 
tion that the guns at Fort Santiago and the Manila shore 
would cease firing. This was agreed upon by General 
Augusti, although it was learned afterwards that most of 
the guns mounted at Manila were a hundred years old and 
worthless. It is said that, on account of their condition 
and the hopelessness of defending Manila, the artillery col- 
onel in command committed suicide. 

**A large Spanish transport, named the Isla de Min- 
danao, which was lying in Cavite Bay during the engage- 
ment, ran ashore near Las Pinas and was burned by the 
Americans because she was armed, which appeared unnec- 
essary and utterly unwarranted. It turned out subse- 
quently that she contained a valuable cargo of general 
supplies worth a million of dollars, which would have 
proved very useful after the arrival of our troops. Be- 
sides, a vessel of that size and value would have yielded 
a handsome sum in the way of prize money for the officers 
and sailors. 

** Finally the entire peninsula of Cavite with the town 
and arsenal were surrendered to the Americans, as well as 
Corregidor and neighboring islands. The command down 
there consisted of about 100 men and they were allowed 
to go on parole to Manila by way of Niac, a small town just 

[55] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

across the bay from Corregidor. The Spanish fleet lost in 
killed and wounded about 400 officers and men out of a to- 
tal of 1,000 men, while the Americans escaped altogether. 
After Dewey took possession of Cavite a procession of priests 
and nuns implored him to spare the lives of the prisoners, 
they having been taught and still believing, that the Ameri- 
cans were a bloodthirsty set and practically savages as far 
as the customs of war were concerned. 

"About two weeks after the engagement a small Span- 
ish gunboat, the Callao, came steaming into the bay from 
the Southern islands, entirely ignorant of the preceding 
events. This was about the only vessel our Government 
acquired as a result of the fight. 

"From that time until the American volunteers arrived 
in Manila Bay, several months later, matters remained in 
statu quo, the Americans holding Cavite and the Spaniards 
Manila. August 13 the Americans entered Manila, after 
a slight show of resistance on the part of the Spaniards, 
presumably so arranged to save their faces." Thus ended 
the Major's recital. 

The sail down the bay was certainly charming but neces- 
sarily short as the distance to Mariveles, where we were to 
anchor for the night, is but thirty miles. Ahead of us all 
the way down and plainly visible, stood the island of Cor- 
regidor which divides the entrance of the bay into the Boca 
Grande and Boca Chica, flanked on the left by the Friale, 
and on the right by the Caballo and the Monja, the three 
latter being nothing more than bold and precipitous rocks. 

Over towards Mariveles loomed up in majestic grandeur 
the dark blue mountains of Bataan, beyond which range I 
had witnessed, from the Luneta, sunsets unsurpassed in 
color and beauty anywhere in the world, even by the famous 
skies of the Bay of Naples which have been the subject of 
poetry and song since the days of Virgil. 

The island of Corregidor is very irregular in formation 
and covers an area of several square miles, the main body 
consisting of a high plateau at least four hundred feet 

[56] 



DEWEY'S FIGHT WITH MONTOJO 

above the sea. Exposed to the China Sea on the east the 
sides of the island are sheer and steep, formed as it were 
by nature for the mighty fortress which now encircles its 
crest. At the foot of the island, facing Manila, is located 
the wharf, the old Spanish marine barracks, a picturesque 
Catholic church, and a small fishing village, containing five 
or six hundred inhabitants. 

** During the Spanish regime,'^ said the Major, *' there 
lived on the island a number of prominent Filipino fam- 
ilies, who were admitted to the society of the Spanish of- 
ficials. Their daughters were educated in the convents of 
Manila, and, singularly enough, nearly all of them became 
accomplished performers on the harp. The American Gov- 
ernment established a large convalescent army hospital on 
the grounds of the marine barracks, and one of the pleas- 
ant diversions of the young American officers, sent there 
for convalescence, was to visit the homes of the young 
senoritas who were always obliging enough to play and 
sing for them. 

*'I remember distinctly that while on a visit of inspec- 
tion there I made the rounds with several of the young offi- 
cers and was escorted to the homes of four or five of these 
young damsels, all of whom played and sang with consid- 
erable skill. They were refined, good-natured, well-man- 
nered young women and might be called pretty, for they 
had regular features, graceful forms, and bright attractive 
eyes. 

** Although more than a decade has passed since then, 
I can distinctly recall, Conchita, Alejandrina, Doris, Man- 
uelita and petite Josefina, all of whom cheerfully obliged 
us with their repertoire, but each concluded by asking in 
broken Spanish and English which one I thought the best 
performer. 

** Doris, a very pretty girl of about seventeen years but 
with a darker skin than her friends, was asked by a young 
officer whether she could play and sing a song bearing her 
own name, which is, I believe, a very familiar love song in 

[57] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

the States. Doris feigned perfect ignorance of the piece 
and asked the young officer to sing it, which he was un- 
able to do but whistled the air. The sly little minx had 
enjoyed herself immensely at the expense of the young lieu- 
tenant, for a few moments later, she played and sang the 
song exquisitely. 

** Things have changed very much at Corregidor since 
those halcyon days when hundreds of our young soldiers 
and officers went there for rest and recuperation. No 
doubt many of them still retain, in fondest recollection, 
memories of the bright-eyed senoritas and the little musical 
coterie, always so willing to entertain the sick Americanos. 
As the work progressed on the fortifications, laborers and 
convicts from Bilibid were taken to the island in large 
numbers, so the simple villagers had to take homes on the 
neighboring shore of Cavite, where no doubt from the 
palm-lined beach, some of the little harpists have watched 
the great white army transports gliding down the bay and 
out to sea with their soldier lovers returning home." 

"In a little nipa cottage, on Cavite's palm-fringed shore. 
Sits a sweet Tagalog maiden, as she sat in days of yore, 
Wlien she listened to my story, 'neath the golden mango tree. 
As I quite forgot my family and she sang 'Porque' to me. 

"With her tiny feet in slippers, and her shoulders brown and 

bare, 
And the sheen so bright and glossy on her splendid raven hair. 
When her dark eyes gayly dancing and her pearly teeth so white, 
As so roguishly she answered 'me no sabe-yes-all-right.' 

"When the mist was on the rice fields, and the shadows coming 

slow. 
She would get her golden harplet, and would sing so soft and low. 
With her arms around my shoulders, and her cheek pressed up 

to mine. 
So we watched the transports sailing, sailing down Cavite line. 

[58] 



DEWEY'S FIGHT WITH MONTOJO 

"Ship me somewhere west of Frisco, where the golden sunset dies, 
And the languid, limpid love-light lies in Oriental eyes. 
For I hear Conehita calling, and the church bells chiming on. 
Come ye back, ye Yankee soldiers, come ye back to old Luzon." 

*' To-day Corregidor has become the Gibraltar of the Far 
East and is fairly bristling with heavy guns. The Govern- 
ment has already spent millions of dollars on the fortifica- 
tions there and intends to make it impossible for the 
strongest hostile fleet to pass into the bay. 

''The entrance to the right of Corregidor, coming from 
the China Sea, is called the Boca Grande or the Great 
Mouth, while the opposite entrance is known as the Boca 
Chica or Small Mouth. It was through the Small Mouth, 
which, is less than two miles wide from island to mainland, 
that Dewey entered that eventful night in May. 

*'You will notice the partially submerged hull of a ves- 
sel lying between the Caballo rocks and the mainland of 
Corregidor. That is all that is left of the poor old Hooker 
whose skeleton has been bleaching in the tropical sun for 
more than ten years past. One mast still points aloft as if 
asking Heaven to mete out a just vengeance upon the 
demons who wrecked her there. The Hooker was the fa- 
mous steamship Panama, which, formerly belonged to the 
Compaiiia Transatlantica of Barcelona and had the dis- 
tinction of being the first Spanish, vessel captured by the 
United States Government in the war against Spain. She 
had very foolishly left her port in Spain only a few days 
before the declaration of war and became an easy prey to 
an American revenue cutter which was cruising near the 
harbor of Havana at the time. The Fanama was then es- 
corted into Key West and turned over to the army as a 
transport, and had the honor of conveying General Fitz 
Hugh Lee and staff to Havana in the Fall of 1898. She 
was finally transferred to the signal corps of the army, 
fitted out at a considerable expense as a cable ship and or- 
dered to Manila, to lay cables between the southern islands 
and Manila. 

[59] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

**The channel between the Caballo rocks and Corregidor 
had never been used for the navigation of ships; in fact, 
it was impossible to steer a sea-going vessel safely through 
that narrow rock-lined strip of water. Any one ac- 
quainted with navigation in Manila Bay might believe the 
accident to have resulted simply from ignorance or error 
in judgment, but within a reasonably short period an ugly 
rumor went the rounds that the vessel had been intention- 
ally wrecked. 

"The Oriental Cable Company at the time had a 
monopoly on cable news in the Far East and, it was said, 
feared competition from the United States which was re- 
ported as on the eve of laying a new line via Guam, Mid- 
way, and Honolulu to San Francisco with the Hooker. 
The story was told that the officials of the company had 
secured the appointment of one of the navigating officers 
of the Hooker and had paid him a handsome sum to de- 
stroy the ship. An investigation was ordered and held in 
Manila, but as far as I ever heard nothing is known 
beyond the fact that nearly all of the officers aboard were 
drunk at the time the attempt was made to steer the ship 
between the rocks. The captain was suspended, one or 
two of the officers discharged, and the Government was left 
to pocket the loss which amounted to over $1,000,000. 

*' Besides the financial loss the important work of laying 
the inter-island cable, which was so necessary during the 
insurrection, had to be delayed until the Burnside was 
fitted out, which postponed the work several years. '* 

By the time the Major had finished the story of the un- 
fortunate Hooker our ship had entered the harbor of 
Mariveles and was slowly steaming toward the buoy where 
we were to pass the night, and submit to the scrutiny of 
the quarantine officers the following day. 



[60] 



CE AFTER VII 

LEGEND OP MARIVELES — THE JUDGE AS A 
RANCHMAN IN NEW MEXICO 

The Famous Station of Mariveles — Description of 
THE Harbor — The Simple-Minded Inhabitants — 
The Commodious Barracks Built by the Americans 
— An Attractive Seaside Resort — The Spanish 
Junta — The Ceremony of Inspection and the Silver 
Bait — The Legend of Mariveles — The Fraile, 
Monja and Corregidor — Cholera in Manila — Effect 
ON THE American Fleet — Three Days' Additional 
Quarantine — Acquaintance with the Judge — His 
Self-Supporting Cat Ranch — Why the Judge 
Abandoned His Ranch — A High-Class Typhoon — 
Out in the China Sea. 

FEW travellers who visit Manila fail to pass at least 
one night at the famous quarantine station of 
Mariveles which is so beautifully located at the head of 
the snug land-locked harbor, across the channel of Boca 
Chica, opposite Corregidor. I was charmed with the 
beauty and restfulness of the little harbor, the picturesque- 
ness of its mountain sides, and the wonderful coloring of 
the foliage. The impressionable stranger would believe 
that he had at last found the land of perpetual Spring and 
the sans-souci for earthly troubles. However, I have been 
told by those who are familiar with the entire archipelago 
that the attractiveness of this lovely spot is excelled in 
magnificence and sublimity a thousand-fold among the 
islands of the South, which indeed compare favorably with 
the grandeur and beauty of Japan's famous Inland Sea. 

[61] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

Enclosing the harbor on all sides, except its narrow 
inlet, are high mountain ranges and peaks whose sides are 
covered with dense primeval forests of hard and valuable 
woods, clothed in every shade of green from light yellow 
to a dark purple. Here and there dotted along the moun- 
tain sides, after the fashion of a crazy quilt, are to be seen 
light green open spaces, cleared of timber through the pa- 
tient labor of the natives and sown to mountain rice. At 
the foot of the hills, in crescentic form and partially rest- 
ing on the playa of the bay, lies the peaceful village of 
Mariveles, inhabited by a simple-minded fisher people, who 
appear perfectly happy in their little world which to them 
reaches no farther than the mountain boundaries of the 
narrow harbor and the island of Corregidor, plainly visible 
four miles away. 

For a century and a half Mariveles, which was formerly 
known as Camaya, has been used as a quarantine station 
for ships passing in and out of the Bay of Manila. Since 
American occupancy comfortable barracks, sufficiently 
large to accommodate an entire regiment, have been con- 
structed by our Government, with an ample sterilizing 
plant and abundance of shower-baths. For the accommo- 
dation of officers and their families a handsome building 
has been erected, containing numerous cool and airy rooms, 
wide halls, and broad piazzas. The barracks of the men 
and officers' quarters are located in a beautiful park with 
green lawns and stately shade trees, thus giving the sta- 
tion the appearance of an attractive seashore resort. 

Quaint stories are still afloat in the cafes on the Escolta 
of the fabulous fortunes made by the quarantine officials 
during Spanish domination and the bonus paid the cen- 
tral government for appointment on the board. Sailing- 
masters entering the port understood the peccant custom 
and had to resort to diplomacy and bribe to protect them- 
selves from an indefinite delay in quarantine, which was 
liable to last a month. 

During my recent sojourn in Manila, a member of an 

[621 



LEGEND OF MARIVELES 

old English firm engaged in the hemp trade told me of an 
experience one of their sailing-masters had at Mariveles a 
few months previous to American occupation. 

"The ship had entered the port direct from England 
after a passage of forty days from Liverpool, with no 
stops en route except at Port Said and Aden for coal. 
A messenger came aboard early the following morning 
and announced that the jiuita which consisted of five 
officials, would visit the ship at noon to make the usual 
inspection. The captain, who had had previous expe- 
rience at Mariveles, prepared a bountiful luncheon for 
the board in his private cabin and saw that there was an 
abundance of wine, cognac, and Havana cigars on hand. 
In addition he left in the centre of the table a sack con- 
taining three hundred Mexican dollars. 

*' Promptly at twelve the dignitaries appeared and after 
the usual greeting and volley of questions concerning the 
health of the crew and passengers and the ports through 
which the ship had passed were ushered into the captain's 
cabin and left to their mature deliberations. At 3 p.m. 
they emerged and informed him that they had made a 
careful study of the situation and were sorry to announce 
that it would be necessary to detain the ship and pas- 
sengers two weeks at least, if not longer, unless he could 
provide more sufficient proof that there was no infection 
lurking within the ship or amongst the crew. 

*'In bidding the captain adios, which was done with all 
the accustomed grace and urbanity of the Spanish cahal- 
leros, they informed him that the following day at the 
same hour they would make another inspection. 

**The same elaborate preparations were made for the 
next day, except that an additional hundred pesos were 
added to the sack. After another series of questioning 
and further consultation the secretary of the junta in- 
formed the captain that the case did not seem quite as 
serious as appeared at first, but it looked as though it 
might prove necessary to detain the ship at least a week. 

[63] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

However, he added on leaving, that their conclusions were 
not final and that they would come again at noon on the 
following day to settle definitely the length of quaran- 
tine. 

''Again the lunch was spread in the captain's cabin, 
with the usual entrees of wine, cognac, and cigars, but 
the sack of money had now grown to the handsome sum of 
five hundred fat and attractive Mexican dollars which ap- 
peared to meet with the entire approval of the august 
body, for after they emerged from the hospitable door 
of the captain's cabin the third time, they uncompro- 
misingly agreed that Manila and her inhabitants would 
be perfectly safe in allowing the ship to proceed without 
further delay. 

*'0n arrival in Manila the captain furnished me with 
an account of the entire transaction, adding that on the 
departure of the board from his cabin he found pinned 
to the empty sack a card with the words ^ Adios y venga 
otra vez,* leaving him in doubt as to whether the 'fare- 
well and come again' referred to his ship or the money 
which the sack contained." 

My friend assured me that similar experiences were 
quite common to sailing-masters entering the port and 
that the sum exacted depended upon the size of the ship 
and the financial standing of the owner. He also added 
that a portion of the bribe-money went into a kind of 
"jack pot," which was divided among the governor-gen- 
eral, archbishop, and other important officials of the cen- 
tral government in Manila. 

I had finished breakfast and, together with the Judge 
and the Major, was sitting on the upper deck enjoying 
the quiet beauty of the scenery and the fragrance of a 
Flor de Isabela, when the latter asked me whether I had 
ever heard the legend of Mariveles and how it had ac- 
quired its name. "No, Major, I have not, but would like 
very much to hear it now, especially as the village with 
its church spire, is in full view." 

[64] 



LEGEND OF MARIVELES 

''Well," continued the Major, ''among the officials sent 
out from Spain to Manila during the very early days of 
the colony was a member of the supreme bench, whose 
daughter, Alicia, created a great sensation by her great 
beauty and charm of manner. The young senorita had 
scarcely reached the age of sixteen on her arrival, so con- 
tinued her studies in the Convent of Santa Clara for sev- 
eral years afterwards. 

"The convent had been but recently established and the 
mother-superior sought most vigorously for recruits to 
fill the vacancies among the novitiates. Her eyes had 
frequently dwelt upon the face of the beautiful Alicia who 
would make such an attractive addition to the ranks of 
the sisterhood, not only on account of her well-known 
piety, but because of the prestige which the convent would 
gain through such an influential member. Alicia was grad- 
uated two years later and, greatly to the sorrow of her 
distinguished parents, took the veil on arriving at the 
age of eighteen, and the name of Sister Maria. 

"Several years of quiet and undisturbed convent life 
passed away, during which time the fair sister, again and 
again, poured out her soul in thankfulness to the Holy 
Virgin for rescuing her from the trials and temptations 
of the wicked world from which she had escaped. 

"Unfortunately for the youthful and beautiful little 
sister, at the end of her two years' novitiate. Padre Veles, 
a handsome young Franciscan friar, was installed as con- 
fessor to the convent. It was not long afterwards that 
the mother-superior and sisters noticed that the holy 
father was confessing Sister Maria oftener than appeared 
necessary for such a stainless creature and, besides, de- 
voted much more time to her than to the confession of 
the others. 

"The embers of a deep and passionate nature started 
the consuming fire of love in the heart of the young padre, 
which effaced for all time his resolutions for the con- 
secrated life of the Church. Maria also fell deeply in 
5 [65] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

love with the handsome young cura, dreamed of him as 
she slept in her narrow, cheerless cell, and saw his face 
constantly while perusing her holy missal. 

^' Padre Veles was of noble birth and had taken holy 
orders at the earnest solicitations and prayers of his 
zealous parents and sailed for the Philippines a few years 
after the departure of Sister Maria, little knowing the 
fate in store for him away out in the unknown East. 

*' Romantic and impressionable by nature, he recipro- 
cated with all the ardor of a Spanish cavalier the love of 
the fair Maria, and with the true courage of a nobleman 
confessed his passion to the archbishop and governor-gen- 
eral, and asked release for himself and sister Maria from 
the bonds of the monastic order and cloister. But the 
archbishop declined to grant the request of the young 
priest and would in no wise countenance the prayer of 
Sister Maria. 

* * ' 'T is but a passing fancy, ' ' * said the archbishop, 
** * which time will efface and a few years later each will 
thank me for the stand I have taken in the matter.* 

*' Little did the all-powerful prelate realize that by his 
refusal to acquiesce in the request of the lovers a tragedy 
would be enacted which for ages to come would be re- 
corded in poetry and song, would be heralded for untold 
generations throughout the domains of Cupid, and, like 
the story of Heloise and Abelard, go ringing down the 
aisles of time as another instance of unrequited love. 

''A few weeks later Padre Veles was sent to a parish in 
a distant province where he was placed under the closest 
observation of the curate of the pueblo. And poor Sister 
Maria, ah, well! she was burdened with penances and 
never allowed to leave the convent walls. But as the 
days and weeks glided on she remained hopelessly sub- 
merged in the delirious sea of passionate love, with but 
one thought, and that to escape and join her lover. 

**The young padre was more fortunate and, with an 
increasing freedom as the weeks went on, formed the 

[66] 



LEGEND OF MARIVELES 

friendship of a wealthy sugar-planter to whom he con- 
fided his love. 

** 'My son,' replied the generous-hearted planter, 'abide 
your time in patience, for as sure as the moon is the 
queen of the night within a little while you will join the 
fair Maria, never more to part. "When the next State 
galleon sails for Mexico, which occurs ten days from now, 
I will take you with me in disguise as one of my attend- 
ants, and arrange for the escape of Sister Maria, who will 
accompany us as my seilora's maid. Remember, my son, 
I have powerful friends in Manila and, besides, the power 
of gold is strong.' 

"Through the carefully arranged plans of the sugar- 
planter. Sister Maria was secretly rescued from the con- 
vent a few nights before the sailing of the galleon and 
removed to Camaya, which was the original name of Mari- 
veles. Padre Veles also appeared there in company with 
his friend a few hours later, when the lovers were quickly 
married by a native priest who was secured for the oc- 
casion. 

''Shortly after the escape and flight of Sister Maria 
parties were sent out in every direction for her apprehen- 
sion, among them one headed by one of the corregidors 
(alderman) of Manila, who sailed down to Camaya, hoping 
to prevent her escape to Mexico on the galleon which was 
to sail the following day. In spite of their disguise the 
lovers were discovered by the heartless and obdurate cor- 
regidor, who, deaf to their passionate appeals, started 
back with them to Manila. 

"Shortly after he had left the little harbor a severe 
typhoon arose which swamped the prahu and the entire 
party was drowned. The typhoon was accompanied by a 
severe volcanic eruption at the entrance of the bay, which 
materially changed the character of the adjoining shores 
and harbor. Curiously enough those two large rocks, 
which you noticed in Boca Grande and Chica, now known 
as the Fraile and Monja, suddenly arose from the water, 

[67] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

as well as the large island of Corregidor. The rocks were 
named the Fraile and Monja after the padre and his 
bride, and the large island, Corregidor, after the cruel- 
hearted alderman. The little town of Camaya was also 
changed to Mariveles in memory of the unfortunate 
lovers. ' ' 

''That is a very interesting version of the legend, 
Major," remarked the Judge, ''but I have heard a hap- 
pier termination of the episode. The incident has been 
recorded by several church historians; one of them states 
that the lovers reached the open sea by means of a small 
sailboat and eventually drifted south to Mindoro which, 
as you know, remained a terra incognita until of recent 
years. The white tribe found in the central portion of 
that island by J. Savage Landor is believed to have re- 
sulted from that union." 

While the Judge and the Major were discussing the 
real facts connected with the legend the transport sur- 
geon arrived and informed us that a second-class pas- 
senger had been seized with cholera during, the night. 
The report was unfortunately too true and the case was 
of such a malignant character that little hope was en- 
tertained for the recovery of the patient. 

The young man came over with the first military expe- 
dition after Dewey's fight and at the conclusion of peace 
determined to settle in the islands and enter trade. He 
had been quite successful in his enterprises and was re- 
turning for a visit to the States. Poor fellow! with a 
mortality rate of eighty per cent there was little chance 
of his realizing his fond dreams of meeting once more the 
loved ones at home after the lapse of so many weary years 
of hope deferred. 

They removed him at once to the infectious ward. 
Whether his next move would be to the quiet little grave- 
yard on the mountain-side was a question which required 
but a few hours to decide. 

The quarantine officers ordered the troops ashore in 

[68] 




Provincial types of Filipinos 




Group of native boys, Bautista, Philippines 



LEGEND OF MARIVELES 

order to fumigate and disinfect the ship and informed 
us that a delay of three days in quarantine would be 
necessary before sailing. A number of the officers and 
their families also went ashore and took apartments in 
the quarantine station during the temporary imprison- 
ment. 

*'I knew there was a tremendous amount of infection 
in Manila," said the Judge, "but had no idea it was so 
widespread. As usual the health authorities have con- 
cealed the facts for fear it would change the programme 
of the American fleet which is expected in a few weeks. ' ^ 

**Yes," said the Major, ''there is a report from Manila 
that forty new cases occurred in the city yesterday, which 
beats the record of any one day during the epidemic 
in 1902." 

''If they acknowledge forty cases," added the Judge, 
"just add twenty more, for, as a rule, at least one-third 
are withheld. I feel sorry for the unfortunate town, with 
its expenditure of 100,000 pesos which were raised among 
the merchant class with the expectations that they were 
casting their bread upon the waters with a string tied 
to it. Under the circumstances I am sure the Admiral 
will not allow the men to go ashore, hence all the prepara- 
tions will be in vain." 

"The quarantine officers have added an additional three 
days to our stay here," said the Major, "so that if noth- 
ing further occurs we will leave next Monday. ' ' 

"Come, Major, let us take a stroll," I said, "and give 
the Judge an hour's siesta before dinner; he looks as 
though he needed a little rest." 

The sky was slightly overcast and the breeze strong 
from the bay during our walk through the village which 
was scarcely a quarter of a mile from the station. 

"You have known the Judge a long time, Major, have 
you not?" I asked. 

"Yes, I have known him ever since I was a small boy; 
I believe it was some time during the early seventies, 

[69 1 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

when travelling with my father along the eastern border 
of northern New Mexico, that we spent the night at his 
ranch. He had been a post-trader years before at old 
Fort Union and, after its abandonment, he decided to go 
into cattle raising. 

**He was doing well enough and leading a happy and 
contented life away out there on the fringe of civiliza- 
tion, until the arrival of a singular character from the 
East who convinced him that there were vast fortunes 
in cat-skins, since beaver and other valuable fur-bearing 
animals had become extinct and seal skins so expensive. 

**The stranger assured the Judge besides, that a prop- 
erly run cat-ranch was entirely self-supporting, and con- 
sequently the sales from the skins would be pure velvet. 

*' 'How can that be?' asked the Judge, who was not 
altogether visionary. 

** 'You know,' said the stranger, 'that cats, rats, and 
other small fur-bearing animals thrive splendidly in this 
climate and that your land is especially adapted to rais- 
ing them. All you have to do after the construction of 
the necessary buildings, is to secure a variety of felines 
and rodents, and the trick is as plain as the nose on your 
face. From the very start, the ranch becomes self-sup- 
porting, since cats naturally live on rats, and the rodents 
reciprocate by subsisting on the flayed cats.' 

"The Judge told my father that the ranch had pros- 
pered far beyond his most sanguine expectations and 
proved a veritable gold mine; that within six months 
after they had gotten fairly started the ranch was cov- 
ered with the most gorgeous colored cats he had ever seen. 
You know that cats are rapid breeders, he added, and that 
he was receiving orders from furriers all over the East 
and even from Paris and Vienna. In fact he said he had 
sold a set of the Blue Persians to the Queen of Graustark 
who intended to have a cloak made of them." 

"The story is indeed interesting. Major, but sounds 
strikingly, if you will pardon me, on the order of one of 

[70] 



LEGEND OF MARIVELES 

Baron Miinchhausen's vagaries. But please tell me why 
he gave up such a lucrative business to enter law." 

''Of course every business has its ups and downs," said 
the Major. ** Several years later I met the Judge at 
Tombstone, Arizona, where he was practising law and 
asked him why he had discontinued his ranch. 

** *My friend,' replied the Judge, 'before answering 
your question, I will have to submit one to you. Have 
you ever reflected seriously on the term "old cat" as ap- 
plied to women? If you have not, let me inform you at 
once. It is because both women and cats are affected 
with fickleness and perversity beyond human understand- 
ing. I had done everything in the world to make the 
mother cats happy, providing them with handsome mates 
and comfortable homes. The atmosphere of peace and 
happiness which surrounded my feline colony would have 
done credit to a Quaker neighborhood, during the first six 
months of its existence. Unfortunately, a young ocelot 
buck visited the colony one bright morning and fairly 
hypnotized every female cat on the ranch. You know the 
ocelot is a prize-winner for beauty among the wild cat 
tribe along the Mexican border. An hour after the dis- 
covery of his presence one of the attendants chased him 
away but alas! too late. That night every tabby on the 
place left her happy home and soul-mate to follow the 
stranger from the hills, and never returned. Of course 
it was impossible to continue the business with the toms 
alone, so I had to sell out and leave.' " 

When I awakened from a refreshing sleep the follow- 
ing morning, I found the fifth typhoon signal up and a 
report from Manila that a severe haguio was driving up 
from the southwest. The wind was already blowing in 
fitful gusts and the rain falling in heavy sheets. 

Fortunately we were well protected behind the lee of 
the high mountain-sides and knew little of v/hat was going 
on in the China Sea and up the Bay of Manila. 

The approaching equinox, which was only a few days 

[71] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

off, was of itself a sufficient reason to insure a high-class 
typhoon, and every one expected a record-breaker, espe- 
cially since the weather had been so quiet during the past 
month. By eleven o'clock a message came down from 
Manila that a regular hurricane was expected and to make 
everything as tight as possible. 

Towards evening the storm had somewhat abated, and it 
was subsequently learned that the centre of the haguio 
had swept around the southern coast of Batangas, and that 
we had merely felt its northern edge. 

Five days had passed since we had entered quarantine 
and, without further bad luck we would begin our jour- 
ney for Japan on IMonday, which was only two days off. 
The ex-volunteer, the first taken sick, was, greatly to the 
surprise of the quarantine officers, doing very well and 
would probably recover, while the poor sailor, whose at- 
tack appeared light in the beginning, had grown rapidly 
worse and within a few hours had passed over the Great 
Divide. 

The next morning at 7 a.m., when my faithful attend- 
ant opened the shutters, a flood of sun-light fit for the 
gods entered my bedroom. The typhoon had gone and 
left nothing behind to remind us of it but a disturbed 
ocean and a few lashing waves. 

I am quite sure the Major was a happy man that beau- 
tiful, peaceful Sunday morning, for he had candidly con- 
fessed, as the storm approached, that he experienced pain- 
ful visions of mal-de-mcr, en route to Nagasaki, being a 
poor sailor, and expected to go on light diet during the 
entire voyage across the China Sea. 

Shall I ever forget that beautiful IMondaj^ morning, as 
the sun cleared the mountain tops and the word passed 
around that we were to sail at 9 a.m.? The hurry and 
bustle was pleasing to us all as from the deck above we 
watched the crew and men tolled off to undergo the final 
inspection on the dock. 

A little later the vibration of the brave old ship warned 

[72] 



LEGEND OF MARIVELES 

us that the powerful machinery was in motion and in a 
few moments we were gliding down the little harbor of 
Mariveles, around the Pulo Munti and out into the China 
Sea. 

Our transport had but recently left the dock at the 
Union AVorks, San Francisco, and was in fine sailing trim. 
It seemed but a little while, as we stood upon the aft deck, 
before nothing remained to the vision of the three tragic 
figures in the legend of Mariveles but a faint outline of 
the grim old island of Corregidor with her bristling bat- 
teries of twelve-inch guns. 

Although the two lonely rocks on the right and left of 
the ancient alderman had gradually melted away in the 
distance, the posted visitor who leaves the Bay of Manila 
could not fail to carry away sad recollections of the un- 
fortunate young priest and nun who died with unrequited 
love three centuries ago. 



[73] 



CHAPTER Yin 
THE SHIP'S PASSENGER LIST 

The Hong Kong Chair — Our Passenger List — A Few 
OP Our Doughty Warriors — The Stunning Blonde 
FROM THE West — The Blinks Family — The Chic 
Bride and Six Children — The Young American and 
His Dusky Family — The Unhappy Soul-Mate — The 
Contented Trio — The Silent Squad Below — The 
English Idea of Burial Abroad. 

BEFORE leaving Manila my army friends had induced 
me to purchase one of those comfortable bamboo 
steamer-chairs made by the Chinese and known as the Hong 
Kong chair. Although the voyage was to last but four 
days the purchase proved to be an excellent investment. 

With the Hong Kong chair, travel at sea is made easy, 
and more than that, it becomes a positive luxury. It ef- 
faces time and distance and by its hypnotic influence, lulls 
the seasick traveller into the enchanted land of Sans- 
Souci. 

My friends, it is a wonderful institution, a multum in 
parvo and the need of every family. With it alone house- 
keeping is made easy and further furniture unnecessary. 
It is so cunningly arranged that the good housewife can 
use it for a serving-table, a bookcase, a couch, a rostrum 
from which to administer Caudle lectures to her husband, 
a crib, a playhouse for the children, a place where the 
cook can entertain her gentlemen friends, and a dozen 
other useful purposes. 

The architect of this wonderful invention had woven a 
circular opening into the broad arm of the chair, which 

[74] 



THE SHIP'S PASSENGER LIST 

the Major said was intended for a glass of Scotch and soda. 
Renewed admiration seized my soul when I realized the 
thoughtfulness of honest old pig-tailed John. 

*'By the way, Major, you promised to tell me something 
of our fellow-passengers a few days ago, but as you know, 
on account of the unsettled condition of things at Mari- 
veles, I saw very little of any one but yourself and the 
Judge. ' ' 

**Yes, that is true, Mr. Rhodes. We have a number 
of delightful people aboard, whom I would like you to 
know. Before you meet them, however, I will tell you 
something of them. You have no doubt noticed that there 
are several senior officers on the ship, in fact we have al- 
most enough rank aboard to sink the vessel. 

*'Well, in accordance with a well established army cus- 
tom we will begin with the senior in rank, who happens 
to be Colonel A., whom you see talking with that stylish 
woman in pale lavender. The dear old fellow is going 
home to retire after an honorable service of forty years. 
He is a gallant soldier and a courtly gentleman of the old 
school. A man of sterling qualities and one whom the 
active list can ill afford to lose. 

** Standing near the rail with field-glass is Colonel B., 
who is my beau-ideal of a soldier, a Chevalier Bayard, 
sans peur et sans reproche. Like Colonel A. he has an 
excellent record as an Indian fighter, and wears a Medal 
of Honor for exceptional bravery during an Apache en- 
gagement. He knew every mountain-pass and water- 
hole in Arizona and, it is said, while a young lieutenant 
frequently rode forty miles in an evening to attend a 
Mexican haile and back to the post afterwards before sun- 
rise. 

**The handsome woman speaking to him is his wife. 
She is the daughter of a distinguished officer and was a 
noted army belle. 

*'0n the opposite side of the deck is Colonel C, who is 
going to Japan for the purpose of recuperation. The 

[75] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

Colonel is a fine type of the old army, the embodiment of 
honesty and devotion to duty. The elder lady with him 
is his wife and the younger his daughter. 

''That distinguished-looking officer sitting to the right 
is Colonel D., who is as courtly and agreeable as hand- 
some. He has been in the service forty years and has an 
excellent record as an artillerist. I am very fond of the 
Colonel and you will find him as modest as he is charm- 
ing. 

"Next in order comes bluff old Major E., a bold 
sahreur and as gallant a knight as ever sat a horse. The 
petite piece of femininity by his side is Madame who is as 
delightful as her husband is cordial. 

''The next officer in rank is Major F., of the miscel- 
laneous staff. He imagines that when Napoleon's star set, 
his arose, and wonders why the War Department fails to 
recognize it. His handsome wife really believes him to 
be a military wonder and loves to dwell upon his sol- 
dierly qualities. I understand he seriously contemplates 
retiring, in which case he would no doubt return to his 
native village and become the oracle and Fourth of July 
orator of the place. 

"I must not forget to mention Miss G., a stunning 
blonde from the West, who came down to Manila just to 
say, ah, there! for she only remained a few days and is 
now en route home. I can tell you honestly, Mr. Rhodes, 
that she would prove a treasure to any man lucky enough 
to win her. She can pack her clothes in my trunk any 
day she wants to. " 

The Major discontinued his descriptions long enough to 
take a deep draft from his glass of Scotch and soda. 

"Where did I leave off?" he continued; "oh, yes, with 
Miss G. What a pity men have n 't sense enough to know 
a good thing when they see it ! 

"Then there is Captain H. and his wife, who are off to 
Japan for a good time. Old Blinks comes of Scotch 
parentage and consequently swears by Scotch, but prefers 

[76] 




Filipino mestizo, Manila 



THE SHIP'S PASSENGER LIST 

King William the Fourth. Although several generations 
removed he has a burr in speaking that sets one's teeth on 
edge. Yes, and Mrs. Blinks is all right, too, and so is 
little Blinks who is a worthy scion of a noble sire. 

*'Well, let me see, who next? Yes, there is Captain J., 
who is an excellent soldier and has a very attractive wife 
awaiting him in Japan where she has been on a visit for 
the past three months with the wife of Captain K., the 
ship's paymaster who is also a splendid fellow. 

''Then there is Lieutenant L. and his wife, both of 
whom are from old Virginia and, curiously enough, are 
proud of the fact ! She is rather petite, graceful, a blonde 
and, more than that, is intelligent, vivacious and pretty, 
and speaks with a deliciously broad Southern accent. She 
is pleasant to talk to, doesn't appropriate her neighbor's 
property, nor abuse her husband's confidence. The lieu- 
tenant is a fine young soldier, and is taking her up to 
Japan, I feel sure, to show her to the Mikado. 

''You see that handsome chic blonde in pale lavender 
with whom Colonel A. is talking? Although she has six 
children she is still a bride and, what is more, has n 't seen 
her husband since the day of their marriage which oc- 
curred over three years ago. She was a widow, of course, 
and her husband is connected with the diplomatic service 
in Tokio. As you see she is not only handsome, but stylish 
and when she appears on deck in a ravishing display of 
lingerie, silken petticoats, and hose to match, it is enough, 
my friend, to make an octogenarian sit up and take 
notice ! 

' ' To-day she 's a dream in lavender ; to-morrow it may 
be the daintiest shade of apple-green and the next day, 
quien sabe? You may rest assured, however, that the old 
man has to go down deep into his wallet to decorate his 
lady-love. 

"Standing there alone and looking over the stern of the 
vessel you observe that sickly looking young man. He 
comes from a distinguished army family which has been 

[77] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

known to the country for generations. He has a position 
in the Civil Government, but returns home on account of 
ilhiess. Unfortunately he married a Filipino woman and 
has two children, all of whom are aboard but rarely leave 
their stateroom. She is very dark, uneducated, and 
homely. Why he married her and what his aristocratic 
parents are going to say when he presents his dusky bride 
and pickaninnies I am at a loss to imagine. Better had 
he hung a mill-stone about his neck than made such an 
alliance. 

*'I must not forget that dapper little lieutenant you see 
playing cribbage with the little light-haired maiden with 
the soft brown eyes. You wouldn't imagine it, but she 
is his wife, although she looks like a sixteen-year-old school- 
miss. It seems to me that, whenever I get on board a 
transport, I always meet that couple. 

**Well, Mr. Rhodes, you begin to show symptoms of 
nervous prostration, but I would fail to perform my duty 
should I neglect to mention the dejected looking blonde in 
the sailor-hat you see sitting near the entrance to the 
saloon, who, I understand, is the wife of a civil engineer 
emploj^ed on the coast fortifications. She was seen quite 
frequently at the Army and Navy Club during the past 
Spring and Summer with a gay young army officer. Her 
husband's work kept him closely confined at Subig Bay, 
so madame, to escape the ennui of a lonesome and isolated 
station, made bi-weekly trips to the metropolis. Of course 
the affair terminated in a scandal and, although the young 
officer would have completed his tour of service within a 
few months, he was sent away from Manila. 

** Brace up, Mr. Rhodes; I have nothing left to descant 
upon, except the quiet-looking trio leaning over the rail 
and looking toward Subig Bay which we are now passing. 
That faded little blonde with pale blue eyes, and the young 
man on her right, have been regularly messing at the club 
for several weeks past and as they appeared to be stran- 
gers in Manila were naturally taken for man and wife. 

[78] 



THE SHIP'S PASSENGER LIST 

She appeared so demure and modest in the dining-room, 
that the army ladies suspected her of being a village bride, 
and when they saw the devoted couple on the streets, in 
the cafes and on the Luneta every evening, never doubted 
longer the question of marriage. 

** Several weeks later number two, whom you see on her 
left, appeared and turned out to be the real husband. He 
had suddenly received orders from Washington to proceed 
home, so came unexpectedly to Manila, picked up the little 
ingenue, and here they are." 

*'What about her friend, the young lieutenant, Major, 
and how did it happen that he came also ? ' ' 

*'Why, my friend," rei)lied the Major, ''have you not 
lived long enough to know that 'love will always find a 
way'? The little scoundrel, who hails somewhere from 
the mountains of Tennessee, suddenly discovered that he 
was suffering from Filipinitis, a recent disease in the Phil- 
ippines, and worked the surgeon for a six months' sick- 
leave. As you observe, she 's happy, the lieutenant is 
beaming with joy, and the husband appears perfectly con- 
tented, so what 's the difference where ignorance is bliss?" 
"One moment. Major," said the Judge, "there is the 
silent squad below, before whom we should all uncover, 
the mute heroes who will never cross the seas again." 

* ' Yes, that is true, Mr. Rhodes ; down between decks lie 
a dozen or more of our young soldiers wrapped in the 
drapery of death. Some of them came over a few years 
ago, others quite recently, little dreaming that they were 
to end their earthly careers in the Philippines, and that 
so soon." 

"Is it possible that all of those who die in service in the 
Philippines are returned to the United States for inter- 
ment?" 

" Yes," said the Major, "and many of the civilian dead 
as well. It 's a great mistake, however, and should be dis- 
continued at once. The American people are the most sen- 
timental and hysterical people in the world. Shortly after 

[79] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

the Insurrection a few maudlin countrj^-editors wrote 
articles about the brave boys who had sacrificed their lives 
for the country and were buried in the distant Philippines, 
far away from loving mother, father, and home. The mat- 
ter was taken up generally by the press and the Govern- 
ment was forced to disinter hundreds of the dead and re- 
turn them to the United States for burial. 

**Any one acquainted with army life knows that quite a 
number of the men died under an assumed name, in which 
case there was no possible way to restore such dead to 
their families. It is an open secret that many of our dead 
soldiers were transported home and interred in the wrong 
family cemetery. Our English cousins have the correct 
idea in regard to the burial of their soldiers and country- 
men who die abroad. It matters not where they are, when 
the final summons comes they are interred where they die. 
In every seaport town, from Hong Kong to Port Said and 
clear across India, from Kurachi to Chi tty gong, you will 
find the well-cared-for cemeteries of the English colonist 
and the graves of their beloved dead." 



[80] 



CHAPTER IX 

A BRIEF SKETCH OF FORMOSA 

A Pleasant Sail Up the Coast of Luzon — The Tragedy 
OF Piedras Lighthouse — The Precipitous Cliffs of 
Formosa — The Early History of the Island — Its 
Primitive Settlers — How the Island Received Its 
Name — Under the Control of China and Japan — 
Spanish, Portuguese, and Dutch Supremacy — Under 
the French — The Treaty of Shimonoseki — What 
the Japanese are Doing for Formosa — The Flora 
AND Fauna of the Island — The Home of the Rose 
and Oolong Tea — Principal Seaport Towns. 

^jPHE sea was calm and quiet and the sky sufficiently 
-*- overcast to make sailing pleasant on entering the 
China Sea. The course, after leaving Corregidor, lies a 
few miles off the coast of Luzon as far north as Cape 
Bojeador, which marks the southern entrance to the Gulf 
of Lingayan. So all day long we steamed along the beau- 
tiful and picturesque shores of Bataan and Zambales, until 
10 o'clock that night, when we lost sight of the Piedras 
lighthouse whose blinking rays could be seen full twenty 
miles out to sea. 

Cholera had been very prevalent along the northern coast 
of Pangasinan and Zambales during the past Summer and 
just before I left Manila the report of a tragedy, which 
occurred in the keeper's family at Piedras lighthouse, was 
published in the newspapers. 

The keeper at the time was a native with a wife and six 
children, all of whom lived in the lighthouse, which is quite 
isolated and some miles away on the rocky promontory. 
6 [ 81 ] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

It was observed that the lamp was not lighted one night 
during the height of the epidemic, resulting in an investi- 
gation by the local inspector. 

On his arrival he found every member of the family 
dead from the terrible scourge, except an infant ten months 
old which was found nursing at its dead mother's breast. 

The second night at 10 p.m. we caught a glimpse of the 
Garambi lighthouse on the extreme southern point of 
Formosa, four hundred mi^es, as the crow flies, north of 
Manila. 

The following day until noon we passed within a few 
miles of the island and, as we gazed upon the precipitous 
cliffs of the western coast falling sheer six thousand feet 
to the sea below, we wondered how the little Japs were get- 
ting on with the wild, savage tribes which occupy the moun- 
tain ranges of the island. 

** Formosa, Mr. Ehodes," said the Major, **has belonged 
to more nations than any other colony in the East and his- 
torically is of more interest even than the Philippines. 

**I had the pleasure of spending several weeks there 
some years ago and enjoyed my visit intensely. I would 
advise every one who visits the Far East to go there if 
possible. I think it was during the early Summer of 1901 
that I was passing down the coast of China and had 
stopped off to spend a few days in Amoy. About the time 
I arrived there one of our naval cruisers was going down 
to Kelung, the principal northern port of the island, and 
I was invited by the captain in command to make the 
trip. 

''Formosa, as you know, lies but a short distance south- 
west of the lower coast of China and is less than a day's 
sail from Amoy. At the time of my visit Viscount Kodama 
was governor-general of the colony and Baron Shimpei 
Goto his executive, which made a strong combination. 

** During my visit there I went as far south as Takow 
which is on the southeast coast and the terminus of the 
railroad from Kelung. This road, although begun by the 

[82] 



A BRIEF SKETCH OF FORMOSA 

Chinese, was finished by the Japanese and is two hundred 
and thirty miles long. 

**As this appears to be an opportune moment with little 
else to occupy us, I would be glad to give you a brief ac- 
count of Formosa if it would prove agreeable," continued 
the Major. 

**I certainly would like to hear all about this famous 
island, so please give us the details in full," I replied. 

**Well," continued the Major, *'very little was defi- 
nitely known of Formosa, until the arrival of the Portu- 
guese about the beginning of the sixteenth century, 
although it is said that the Chinese Emperor Yang, about 
600 A.D., sent an exploratory expedition there under the 
command of an officer of the imperial guard, who was 
unable to communicate with the natives so returned to 
China with a few captives. The Chinese sailors who got 
within range of the island returned with all kinds of 
fabulous reports about this mysterious country and the 
fierce savages with which it was inhabited. 

** Until the twelfth century the islanders had nothing 
whatever to do with their neighbors on the northwest, the 
Japanese, or those on the northeast, the Chinese. How- 
ever it is reported in the Chinese chronicles that about 
that time a large party of these savages sailed to the coast 
of Fokien, led by a great chief, attacked the inhabitants, 
and carried away all the metal they could lay their hands 
on. 

** During the years 1403-1424 Emperor Chung Ho of 
China, who claimed suzerainty over the island at the time, 
paid a visit to the various sections of his empire, includ- 
ing Loochoon, by which name the colony was known then 
to the Chinese, but was badly treated by the natives who 
ran off to the hills instead of giving handsome presents 
as was the case with his other subjects. On his return to 
China it is said he sent a ship-load of small bells which 
he ordered the heads of families to wear around their necks, 
as was the custom with dogs. 

[83] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

* * Very little, indeed, is known of its early history, so like 
that of the Philippines, previous to the advent of the 
Spaniards; it melts away into tradition and the dim vista 
of the past, leaving the historian to pure conjecture, or con- 
clusions derived from ethnological study, or facts recorded 
by the Portuguese, Spanish, and Dutch, who visited the 
island about the beginning of the seventeenth century. 

''The primitive settlers of the island are presumed to 
have been the negritos, into whom was engrafted the Malay 
blood from the successive waves of emigrants who fol- 
lowed the warm currents from the Southern islands. The 
savage tribes have many of the characteristics of the head- 
hunters of Bontoc, Luzon and the Dyaks of Borneo, who 
originally came from Java, Sumatra, and the islands of 
Polynesia centuries ago and retain to the present day many 
cruel, fierce, and barbarous customs. About 1722 the 
savages had all gone up into the mountains, leaving the 
fertile plains of the eastern portion of the island in the 
hands of the Chinese farmers with whom they were hav- 
ing frequent contentions. In order to stop these erup- 
tions the Chinese governor built an embankment down the 
island to separate the savages from the peaceful settlers. 
Since Japanese occupancy they have extended a line of 
block houses along the embankment and established sen- 
tries about every half mile. 

"From the beginning of the sixteenth century, the fer- 
tile plains on the eastern side of the island were overrun 
by Chinese emigrants, especially from Amoy and vicinity, 
who have gradually driven the savage tribes back to the 
mountainous districts. 

"The name of Formosa was given the island by the 
Portuguese who, on sailing for the first time along the 
eastern coast with the green-clad mountain-peaks piercing 
the clouds above, cascades glittering like silver ribbons in 
the tropical sunlight, and terraced plains waving with 
feathery bamboo, exclaimed, ^Ilha formosa, illia formosa' 
(beautiful island, beautiful island). 

[84] 



A BRIEF SKETCH OF FORMOSA 

''So to-day the population of the island consists of a 
little more than 3,000,000 souls, 2,800,000 of whom are 
Chinese or Chinese half-breeds, 100,000 savages, 90,000 
Japanese or Japanese mestizos, the remainder being 
Europeans. 

''For many centuries Formosa was controlled by Jap- 
anese or Chinese pirates who made their headquarters at 
Kelung, the northern port of the island. The Portuguese 
made a settlement on the island about 1590, but were 
driven away by the Dutch while trying to displace them 
from Macao. The Spaniards then took possession and in 
turn were expelled by the Dutch who held the island from 
1626 to 1662, when they were driven out by Koxinga, a 
celebrated Chinese pirate who was living at Amoy and 
was at enmity with the Tartar kings who had expelled the 
Mings. Koxinga established himself on the island in 1662 
as king and reigned until 1683, when he died and his gov- 
ernment reverted again to the Chinese. 

"From that time until 1895 the island has been under 
control of China, with the exception of three occasions 
when the islanders organized a kingdom and appointed 
kings. In 1874 the Japanese invaded the island to avenge 
the murder of some of their people and left again after 
the payment of a suitable indemnity. In 1884 the French 
government took up arms against China over the Tonkin 
boundary question and for eight months the tricolor floated 
over Kelung as well as the Pescadores. If Admiral 
Courbet had not died of cholera at the time Formosa might 
even now be French territory as well as Tonkin. 

"The island was finally turned over to Japan in 1895 
as a result of the Chinese treaty at Shimonoseki, though 
she had first to overcome the natives who had established 
a republic in the meanwhile. The area of Formosa, in- 
cluding the Pescadores, amounts to 15,000 square miles 
and is about as large as Vermont and Connecticut com- 
bined. 

"Before Japan acquired Formosa she had for a long 

[85] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

time cast wistful eyes upon the Philippines, the Pearl of 
the Orient, and no doubt, while watching the various in- 
surrections there, was dreaming of the day when the flag 
of the Kising Sun would float over Fort Santiago in the 
walled city of Manila. 

*'The distance from Formosa to Manila is only one day's 
sail, which will make it easy to convey an army of 100,000 
men from one of the southern ports to Manila whenever 
the ambitious little Japs desire to take the islands. I un- 
derstand that a standing army of from twenty to thirty 
thousand men is kept there in constant readiness. 

''Lying as it does between Japan and the Philippines, 
Formosa enjoys both a tropical and temperate climate, 
with an annual wet season, which occurs during the winter 
months. Kelung, the principal seaport on the north, has 
the record of the fourth wettest place in the world, with 
a downpour during the year of one hundred and fifty- 
eight inches, while Cherraponzee, India, stands at the head 
with six hundred and eighteen inches and Port Said at the 
foot with two inches. So you see, as far as rains are con- 
cerned, it can be truthfully said that during the winter 
months in Formosa, they are 'going some.' The surface 
of Formosa, like that of many islands of the Philippines, 
is very mountainous, especially its central and western 
half, while the eastern third is level, undulating, and very 
fertile. 

"Since 9'apanese ownership the island has undergone 
many wonderful changes in the construction of wagon- 
roads and railways, telegraph lines, telephones, public 
schools, courts of law, governmental and local administra- 
tion, and development of natural resources. Immediately 
on the acquisition of Formosa the Japanese installed the 
public school system, which took the place of the numerous 
small Chinese schools in which were taught simply the 
ideas of Mencius and Confucius. Thousands of the native 
children to-day, however, are receiving a liberal Western 
education. 

[86] 



A BRIEF SKETCH OF FORMOSA 

** There is no doubt but that the Japs are a wonderful 
people, and especially fitted for the colonization of the 
Malay races of the East. 

*'The island produces practically all of the camphor 
supply of the world and is the home of that most deli- 
cious and aromatic of all teas, the Oolong. There is a 
legend among the natives that a planter found a black 
serpent wound around a small plant on his plantation in 
a curious manner, which so excited his interest that, after 
killing the snake, he took a few of the leaves of the plant 
home and steeped them in boiling water. Greatly to his 
surprise he discovered the fragrant Oolong tea, which de- 
rived its name from the serpent which is as black as a 
crow. Besides camphor and tea, the island produces rice, 
sugar, coal, oil, gold, salt, sulphur, hardwood, and many 
varieties of vegetables and native fruits. The govern- 
ment has a monopoly on the camphor, salt, and opium 
trade which produces a large revenue. 

**The island contains also a number of wild animals, 
such as the tiger, bear, wild-boar, monkey, wild-cat and 
goat-antelope, besides a number of large snakes and ven- 
omous serpents. 

*' Formosa is noted for the number of its sweet flowers 
and fragrant shrubs. It is the native home of the queen 
of all flowers, the rose, and produces the sweetest jasmine 
in the world. It is said that the approach of a native 
maiden can be detected at a distance on the darkest night 
by the perfume of the sprig of jasmine she wears in her 
hair, and it is also said that a variety of tube rose grows 
on the island whose scent disappears altogether during the 
day but is given off strongly during the night. 

''The Formosans are very fond of ducks, and it is a 
common sight in travelling through the island to see 
flocks of many hundreds of them being driven through the 
country by attendants, with long poles, wandering around 
for food in the manner of sheep herds on the western 
plains. 

[87] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

'^Taihoku, a town of 6,000 inhabitants on the north, is 
the seat of government. Tainan, with 50,000 people on 
the southeast coast, is the largest city on the island. 
Kelung, on the north, and Arriping and Takow, on the 
southeast coasts, are the principal seaport towns.'* 



[88] 



CE AFTER X 

ARRIVAL IN THE HARBOR OF NAGASAKI 

The Chain of Loochoos — The Impatient Son op Mars 
— The Death op the Merchant 's Wipe — Her Burial 
AT Sea — Approach to Nagasaki — The Masked Bat- 
teries ALONG THE BlUPPS ThE QUARANTINE INSPECT- 
ORS — Disappointment op Captain J. — His Appeal 
TO the Heartless Sons of Nippon — The Following 
Morning — Experiences of the Sterilizing Process — 
On the Bluffs behind the Station — Arrival in 
Nagasaki. 

LONG before the last golden ray of the setting sun 
had disappeared below the western horizon, Formosa 
had faded away into the southern seas and while the 
gallant old ship was bravely ploughing her way to the 
north, the passengers again settled down to the tranquil 
life of a quiet sea. 

Sixty miles north of Formosa we passed the rocky island 
of Hoo Pin Su, while to the east, lying fifty miles away, 
began the chain of the Loochoo islands which for many 
centuries have belonged to Japan, and were the initial 
point where Saint Francis Xavier began his missionary 
work with the Japanese in 1545. 

We had now been out from Mariveles sixty hours, had 
reeled off seven hundred and fifty miles of the one thou- 
sand two hundred and fifty from Corregidor to Nagasaki 
and expected to reach port about three o'clock on the 
second afternoon. During the past twenty-four hours 
we had made three hundred and thirty-seven knots, a most 
excellent record for a government transport limited to 

[89] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

twelve knots per hour. The extra number of knots gained 
however was not due to extra coal used, but to the swift 
current of the Black Stream, which sweeps along the steep 
western coast of Formosa from the warm waters of the 
southern seas. 

Everybody was anxious to reach Japan, yet every one 
was satisfied with our speed except Captain J., who was 
getting excited at the prospect of meeting his little Dolly 
Varden in Nagasaki and the cold bottle and hot bird that 
was to follow at the hotel that night. 

Although the ship had taken up an Atlantic liner gait, 
this impatient son of Mars growled because she did not 
go faster, and had made frequent trips to the cabin of 
the chief engineer to learn why he couldn't add a few 
extra pounds of steam. 

The captain was a handsome man and fond of dress and 
during the past few days had been busy in removing 
imaginary spots from the suit he was going to don on 
meeting her. The ship's quartermaster said nothing but 
just laid low, while the young, motherful bride moved 
about the deck in an exquisite confection of old-gold and 
rose, followed by a train of admirers. 

**Just think of it, Mr. Rhodes," she said, **I have been 
married to my dear husband over three years and have n 't 
seen him since the wedding. A diplomatic complication 
arose between the United States and Japan unexpectedly, 
so he had to leave me a few hours after the ceremony. 
Oh! I am just crazy to see him, so I can really get ac- 
quainted with the dear man," and lifting her exquisite 
gown just high enough to show the daintiest little slip- 
pered foot encased in silken hose to match her rose- 
colored skirt, she wandered off to the aft deck of the ship 
in company with a handsome young blade of a lieutenant. 

I had finished breakfast the following morning after 
passing Formosa and sat in my comfortable steamer chair 
watching the encircling rings from a Reina Victoria, 
dreaming of old Manila with its romances and hazy past, 

[90] 



ARRIVAL IN THE HARBOR OF NAGASAKI 

when my reveries were disturbed by the transport sur- 
geon, who informed us of the death of the unfortunate 
merchant's wife previously mentioned. 

''I am not surprised," said the Major, <'and in fact 
have expected it ever since we left Manila. This is the 
second death, and I wonder who will be the third, for I 
have frequently observed in army circles, that they usually 
occur in cycles of three." 

''Let. us hope," added the Judge, 'Hhat no more will 
occur before we reach Nagasaki." 

''Curiously enough," continued the surgeon, "the poor 
woman, whose mind was perfectly clear until the end, re- 
quested to be buried at sea and after sunset. I am satis- 
fied now that she had no idea of ever reaching home when 
she left Mariveles, for she requested me, on two previous 
occasions, to see that her body was buried at sea in case 
she did not survive the journey. The quartermaster has 
concluded to comply with her last request, so has ar- 
ranged for the burial at eight o'clock to-night." 

"Well, she was a brave little woman," observed the 
Major, "and I pity her from the bottom of my heart. 
But why do you suppose she wanted to be buried after 
sunset ? ' ' 

"She was a woman of very deep religious convictions,'' 
said the Judge, "and, besides, sentimentally inclined. No 
doubt she was aware that she was dying when she came 
aboard and considered the appropriateness of burial after 
the day was spent." 

The body was neatly and securely enclosed in a white 
canvas case the foot of which was weighted with two 
heavy iron grate bars. The ceremony took place amid- 
ships at the appointed hour, the body resting on a small 
gang-plank, which was poised over the ship 's side. 

The funeral service of the Episcopal church was read 
by the first officer of the ship, and at the final words, 
"Earth to earth, dust to dust, ashes to ashes," the flag, 
which she had followed across the distant seas, was re- 

[91] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

moved and the silent little figure in white, under the star- 
lit canopy of Heaven, glided down into the placid waters 
of the China Sea now tinted by the brilliant coloring of 
a glorious tropical sunset. 

With bowed heads the sad party watched the eddying 
circles of the disturbed water for a few moments when 
the bell sounded **go ahead" and the ship moved off, 
leaving our dead asleep forever in the maternal bosom of 
the mighty deep. 

On the second morning following my brief conversa- 
tion with the diplomat's wife, small islands appeared over 
our starboard bow and we were thus admonished that we 
were approaching the land of the Rising Sun. By ten 
o'clock larger islands appeared and by noon we were 
within thirty miles of Nagasaki and safely anchored in 
the harbor at 3 p.m., the hour the sailing-master told us 
we were to arrive, after leaving our anchorage in Mari- 
veles. 

As we passed through the outer bay at Nagasaki the 
practised military observer could detect evidences of 
masked batteries on the prominent hills along the shore, 
lying in wait for their victims like great lurking Bengal 
tigers. Whose fleet will it be, I wonder? The Japanese 
have strongly fortified all of their important seaports 
and have hidden the batteries so cunningly that only those 
informed on the subject would imagine that the beautiful 
and picturesque hills surrounding those harbors were 
fairly bristling with heavy guns and mortar batteries. 

Shortly after casting anchor the Japanese quarantine 
boat arrived and our troubles really began. Glittering in 
gold lace and braid five little Japanese clambered up the 
ship's side with all the confidence of conquering heroes. 
They were told of our experience with cholera at Mari- 
veles, a fact they had already learned through their con- 
sul at Manila, and sentenced us to four days' quarantine 
in the bay to be followed by a course of fumigation. 

**Very sorry, Captain, we cannot allow any of the pas- 

[92] 



ARRIVAL IN THE HARBOR OF NAGASAKI 

sengers to land until then," said the spokesman of the 
Mikado. 

"But, your excellency," interrupted the ship's surgeon, 
''you know that cholera has an incubation period of only 
five days, and an entire week has passed since our last 
case; besides, we were thoroughly disinfected before leav- 
ing Mariveles." 

''Honored surgeon, are you not aware that His Imperial 
Majesty reposes entire confidence in his abject servants, 
and do you not know that, were a few of the lurking germs 
within your noble ship to get loose on our sacred shores, 
— click, and off would roll our heads?" 

The matter was growing serious, for but a short distance 
away, the quartermaster's launch was rapidly approaching, 
with three anxious passengers, the happy bridegroom and 
the two expectant wives. Yes, there was the great diplo- 
mat from the court of the Mikado, armed with Japanese 
dolls and boxes of French bon-bons for the youthful mem- 
bers of his family and an exquisite bouquet of violets for 
his lady love. And the handsome wives of the two sons 
of Mars, yes, they were there too, their faces beaming with 
love and their lips covered with undelivered kisses. 

My friend Captain J., arrayed in his spotless suit, one 
of Ah Sing's choicest productions, stood there gasping 
and dazed. Then breaking out into the vernacular of his 
ancestors from the old sod, feebly lisped to the head in- 
spector, "Oh, me darlint, just take me wad and turn me 
loose, I ain't got much money but a good excuse. Och! 
your excellency, only think of the cold bottle and hot 
bird!" 

** Mighty and honored son of a great and illustrious 
nation, consider but for a moment what would become of 
me should I allow you to go ashore and scatter your hon- 
ored germs of cholera among our abject people! ParUeu! 
I can feel the sharp blade of the hara-kiri knife as it cuts 
its way through my unworthy intestines ! Mighty sons of 
Mars, I am sorry, I am sorry !''^ 

[93] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

**0h, miglity son of a mighty race, cast your eyes but 
a moment on that innocent angel-face of me darlint in 
the boat below, and then tell me I can go. You '11 break 
me heart, cruel man ; besides, only think of the cold bottle 
and the hot bird awaiting me at the hotel to-night. ' ' 

*'Eenowned son of the West, I will go now and confer 
with the little Tycoon and let you have an ultimatum in 
the early morning. I am sorry, very sorry for you, but 
forget it, yes, forget it.'* 

* * Och, you murderin ' devils ! Do you mane to till me I 
can't go, you hyena-faced, black-hearted gutter-bum! 
Oh, Holy Mother, let me die, come, take your little 
Willie!" 

The inspectors left us gazing, like the Children of Israel 
of old on the promised land which the Lord only knew 
when we were to enter. 

The unhappy trio in the launch returned to Nagasaki 
shortly after the inspectors had left, wondering why Koch 
had ever discovered the cholera bacillus at all if the knowl- 
edge was going to upset the world in this manner. 

And Captain J., — well, he went to his stateroom and 
when I saw him ten minutes later he had his feet in a hot 
mustard bath, an ice-bag on his head, and a bottle of King 
William and soda by his side. 

At 9 :30 the following morning the representative of 
the little Tycoon with his four assistants arrived and an- 
nounced that he had decided to disinfect the ship and pas- 
sengers during the day and allow us to go ashore in the 
afternoon. Very soon thereafter a number of barges ap- 
peared for the removal of the men to the quarantine sta- 
tion, and later others for the officers and remaining first- 
class passengers. 

The arrangements of the station had been carefully and 
scientifically planned and would reflect credit on any 
Western nation; in fact it was far ahead of our estab- 
lishment at Mariveles. The clothes of every one were 
placed in separate woven-wire baskets, ticketed and passed 

[94] 




Stone lanterns and torii, Sacred Island, Japan 




Famous Torii, Sacred island of Miyajima, Japan 



ARRIVAL IN THE HARBOR OF NAGASAKI 

through the sterilizers, while the passengers were pro- 
vided with freshly laundered kimonos and slippers, and 
ushered into individual bath-rooms which were well pro- 
vided with soap and towels. Private apartments with 
bath-rooms were also provided for the ladies and within 
a short half-hour the entire party had passed through the 
establishment and were to be seen happily sunning them- 
selves on the lawn and rocks in the rear. 

Immediately behind the quarantine station the surface, 
which rises fifty or sixty feet in height, has been pro- 
vided with pleasant walks and comfortable seats located 
in attractive corners from which fine views of the city can 
be obtained. Together with the 'Judge and the Major, I 
ascended the little hill to the casino which stands on the 
crest of the bluff, and there a scene of domestic felicity 
and happiness greeted my vision which I feel should be 
presented to my readers. 

The anxious diplomat had evidently conferred with the 
quarantine inspectors the night before, for there, in 
ecstatic bliss, he was lovingly holding the hand of his 
winsome bride, in the bosom of his ready-made family of 
six. Not far distant, in Ah Singes spotless best, sat Cap- 
tain J., dead to all the world save the little peek-a-boo by 
his side, even unmindful of his sad disappointment of the 
night before, and the loss of the cold bottle and the very 
hot bird. 

And the ship's paymaster, well, he was too busy count- 
ing out one thousand silver plunks to the Japanese officials 
to think of his troubles, for the entertainment at the 
quarantine station had cost Uncle Sam just that sum. 
Japan is poor and needs the money in order to get ready 
for her next war, which will be with — well, with whom — 
quien sdhe? 

The journey from Mariveles to Nagasaki was over, the 
cholera a past incident, so you, my gentle reader, may 
rest assured that we, who were en route to Japan, did not 
linger long on the brave old ship which so gallantly and 

[95] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

comfortably had brought us over. Shortly after our re- 
turn to the transport, those of us en route to Japan bade 
our friends for the States adieu and, securing sampans, 
hurried away for the shores of the Rising Sun. 



[96] 



CHAPTEB XI 

A SKETCH OF NAGASAKI 

Japanese Sampan Fleet — A Japanese Gondolier — 
The Modern Sampan — Harbor and City of Nagasaki 
— Japanese Custom Officials — The Island of Des- 
HiMA and Dutch Merchants — Nagasaki Hotels — 
The Nine Provinces op Kyushu — Area of Kyushu — 
First Appearance of Jimmu Tenno — Empress Jingo 
KoGO and Conquest of Korea — Her Son Hachiman, 
the God of War. 

SURROUNDED by a fleet of shouting Japanese sam- 
pan men, vociferously engaged in a fierce rivalry for 
the passenger trade of the ship, we finally succeeded in 
landing our trunks and valises in a commodious two- 
man sampan and were swiftly sculled across the lovely 
land-locked harbor of Nagasaki to the central quay of the 
city opposite the custom house, through which we had to 
pass before entering the sacred domain of historic Nippon. 

The sampans of Japan and China have for ages been as 
celebrated in the Orient as the gondolas in the Queen City 
of the Adriatic, and while the sampan men are scarcely 
as picturesque as the gondoliers from an aesthetic point 
of view, they are much more so from an artistic stand- 
point. 

The modern sampan of the Orient is comfortable, com- 
modious, and safe in the roughest seas. Originally con- 
structed of three single planks, as its name implies, this 
little craft has gradually developed into a veritable house- 
boat in which a party of from six to ten can be com- 
fortably housed and transported. Many of the larger 
7 [97] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

ones are fully forty feet long and provided with a charm- 
ing little cabin amidship, which affords ample shelter for 
the passenger during hot, cold, or rainy weather. 

They are propelled from the rear and sides by from 
one to three scullers who, standing erect, force the boat 
along quite as rapidly as the ordinary crew of Western 
oarsmen. The sampan men of southern Japan are very 
dark, compactly built, and remind one strikingly of the 
Malay pirates of Moroland. In a scanty dress of loin 
cloth and Heavenly smile, their magnificent muscular de- 
velopment and compactness, together with their copper- 
colored flesh, suggest very strongly bronze statues endowed 
with life and motion. 

Nagasaki, which is situated on the southern shore of the 
island of Kyushu, possesses one of the best and deepest 
harbors in the world, and from a standpoint of beauty 
and picturesqueness is excelled by none in the Far East. 
For three miles it winds through a narrow inlet, not ex- 
ceeding a quarter of a mile in width at its entrance, and 
is bordered by smiling shores indented here and there with 
small bays, over which, far above, tower picturesque and 
abruptly rising bluffs. The mouth of the harbor is 
guarded by four small islands, while at the farther end 
of the bay rise abruptly from the sea the Tarpeian Rocks 
from which hundreds of Catholic Christians were thrown 
during the dark and bloody reign of the early Tokugawa 
shoguns. 

At the foot of the encircling hills and in crescentic shape 
along the narrow step of land lies the city of Nagasaki 
with a population of more than 150,000 souls, now one of 
the busiest marts of the empire. Constantly to be seen 
in this port are the ships of all nations, conspicuous 
among which floated the Stars and Stripes a few years 
ago when Uncle Sam's magnificent fleet of transports was 
kept busy in carrying the boys in khaki to our possessions 
in the Far East. 

[98] 



A SKETCH OF NAGASAKI 

Along the western shore of the harbor and now almost 
in the centre of the town lies the famous island of 
Deshima, upon which was located for two centuries and a 
half the prison, trading-post, and factories of the Dutch, 
the only European power, which during the time, had 
access to the Hermit Nation. The island is now joined 
to the mainland by a causeway and is covered with native 
shops and factories. 

Away along the northern shore under the frowning 
cliffs is still marked the fatal spot where the last Portu- 
guese ship was burned to the water's edge and sunk in 
1638, because she entered the harbor after the fearful 
edict against all foreigners and native converts to Chris- 
tianity was issued. Twelve miles below the mouth of the 
harbor is situated the island of Tadashima, which has 
proven a veritable gold mine to the Japanese government, 
on account of its wealth of bituminous coal, which has 
largely supplied the shipping of the East. 

Along the hillsides and peeping out from the semi- 
tropical growth and flowering shrubbery are to be seen 
the many fantastically shaped temples and handsome 
miniature villas of the city. On the crest of the hills, 
back behind the town, stand the crumbling ruins of the 
old castle of the lords of the province, from which coign 
of vantage can be obtained an exquisite view of the har- 
bor below, filled with large and small craft, the larger 
ones idly swinging with the tide at anchor, while the 
myriads of smaller ones, like busy ants, are traversing the 
channel in every direction. 

Farther up and still beyond the hill-tops on the plains, 
are to be seen numerous cemeteries in many of which re- 
pose the ashes of hundreds of unfortunates who were put 
to death because they abandoned the faith of their fathers 
and joined what was called by the native inquisition the 
** Corrupt Sect." Still further beyond, the visitor passes 
through the smiling fields of the prosperous farmer who 

199] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

finds a ready market for his produce in the thriving, bus- 
tling town below, filled with thousands of well-stocked shops 
and thriving merchants. 

Presented to the Daimio Nagasaki Kotaro, from whom 
it derived its name, by the great warrior and king-maker 
Yoritomo in the twelfth century, Nagasaki was a place of 
no importance until given to the Portuguese in the six- 
teenth century, when it attracted hundreds of foreigners 
and thousands of native Christians and bloomed out into 
a trading-port of great renown. 

The Jesuit fathers, who had drifted across seas before 
the middle of the sixteenth century with the Portuguese 
traders, found Japan a fertile field for proselytism in con- 
nection with the alluring bait of Western trade, which was 
ardently desired by the daimios at that time. So with 
little difficulty an arrangement was made between the rul- 
ing princes and the Jesuit priests to transfer the district 
around the harbor, then known as Fukae-no-ura, to the 
Portuguese, who laid out the present town of Nagasaki 
which within a short time developed into a prosperous and 
populous city. 

The anchorage of the transport was but a short distance 
from the wharf, so in less than half an hour after leaving 
our ship we stood before the custom-house officials to un- 
dergo the usual inspection, which in our case proved very 
superficial indeed. The Japanese government imposes an 
import duty on many articles of commerce, among which 
are tobacco, liquor, cameras, bicycles, guns and other neces- 
sary travelling essentials carried by the thousands of for- 
eign travellers who are now pouring into her dominions. 
Japan is very considerate of the visiting foreigners and 
exercises a reasonable policy with regard to many articles, 
which could be held up for duty were she as inflexible as 
our own customs officials are at home. 

''Well, gentlemen," said the Judge, '*it is now nearly 
5 'clock and, I fear, too late to see much of the city to-day, 
so I suggest we proceed to a hotel and attend to our corre- 

[100] 



A SKETCH OF NAGASAKI 

spondence which, I feel sure, will keep us busy until bed- 
time. ' ' 

'*A very good proposition," said the Major, *' provided 
we can find a suitable hotel." 

**I am sorry," replied the Judge, 'Hhat the Hotel 
Nagasaki, which you see a short distance beyond on the 
Bund, has closed, so we shall have to accept one of 
the smaller hostelries, the Bellevue, Hotel de Francia, or the 
Cliff House." 

*'If you will leave the choice to me," added the Major, 
**I will select the Cliff House, which name sounds good 
to me, and, besides, carries with it a train of pleasant 
memories of my services at the Golden Gate. ' * 

*'Muy hien, cahalleros/' replied the Judge, drifting 
back into the vernacular of the land we had recently left, 
*'out of deference to the Major it shall be the Cliff House, 
which bears a very good reputation, I understand. The 
Nagasaki was running during my last visit here and did 
a thriving business during the days of the Philippine In- 
surrection. ' ' 

"We found the Cliff House entirely satisfactory, with 
comfortable rooms, excellent food, bath-rooms and an ac- 
commodating Japanese host. Several of our fellow- 
travellers who had gone to the Hotel de Francia and the 
Bellevue, later on submitted equally flattering reports with 
correspondingly reasonable rates. We had finished our 
breakfast the following morning and were enjoying a view 
of the beautiful harbor from the piazza of the hotel, when 
it was decided to lay out the campaign for the day. 

** Although we have reached the land of the Rising Sun, 
Major, don 't imagine that your commission as official guide 
has expired," said the Judge. 

"My duties as guide will not be very onerous here in 
Nagasaki, I feel sure," replied the Major, **for beyond 
a few temples, the shopping district and the picturesque 
surroundings, there is little else to be seen. Nagasaki at 
present contains a population of over 150,000 souls, and 

[101] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

is well provided with banks, clubs, churches, shops, and 
theatres, but its principal attractions are confined to its 
beautiful environment which contains many attractive re- 
sorts. 

*' Nagasaki, as you know, Mr. Rhodes," said the Major, 
** is the capital of the island of Kyushu and for centuries 
was practically independent of the remaining portion of 
the empire. Owing to its distance from the national cap- 
ital and lack of communication, Kyushu was for cen- 
turies almost regarded as a penal colony to which 
refractory and bumptious daimios were sent. It was on 
account of its distance from the headquarters of the cen- 
tral government that the ruling princes of the island be- 
came so powerful and ultimately a menace to the empire. 

''The island of Kyushu derives its name from its nine 
provinces and is the most southerly of the four large 
islands comprising the empire. In fact it contains 8,000 
square miles and is as large as Vermont and New Hamp- 
shire combined. It played a prominent part in the ear- 
liest history of Japan and is wrapped in the mystery of 
national legend. It was upon this island that the great 
'Jimmu Tenno, the conqueror and first Mikado, descended 
from the skies to succeed the Shinto gods who had ruled 
the land from the celestial regions until his birth. He is 
believed to have descended from the sun-goddess Ama- 
terasu, and is considered the progenitor of the present rul- 
ing house which is regarded by the Japanese as semi- 
divine. 

*'It was also from the sacred soil of Kjoishu that the 
Empress Jingo Kogo, who ruled the country from 201-265 
A.D., sailed with a gallant fleet to make the conquest of 
Korea and, during her three years' residence there, car- 
ried in her womb her son Ojin, now known as Hachiman, 
the great God of "War. It was also upon this island that 
the Portuguese made their first settlement in the Far 
East which led to the establishment of the Roman 

[102] 



A SKETCH OF NAGASAKI 

Catholic faith, with the terrible sequence of wretchedness 
and cruel misery following its eradication." 

**No one visiting Japan should leave the country with- 
out a knowledge of this interesting episode which is one 
of the darkest pages in the history of Japan," said the 
Judge, "and I suggest that the Major give us the details, 
while we finish cigars." 



[103] 



CHAPTER XII 

NOBUNAGA, HIDEYOSHI, AND lEYASU. THE 
PERSECUTION OF THE ROMANISTS 

Persecutions of the Catholkis o^ Japan — Nobunaga, 

HiDEYOSHI, AND IeYASU -i— ThE BaTTLE OF SeKIGAHARA 

— Battle of Osaka — Death of Hideyori — Arrival 
OF Francis Xavier — Similarity of Buddhism and 
Romanism — Establishment of Romanism in Japan — 
Departure of Francis Xavier — Edicts of 1587, 1607, 
and 1614 — Crucifixion of Priests — Horrible Perse- 
cutions OF Native Christians — Rebellion of Shima- 

BARA. 

THE circumstances connected with the tragedy," said 
th(^ Major, *'are so deeply interwoven with the lives 
of three of Japan's greatest rulers, Nobunaga, Hideyoshi, 
and leyasu, that a thorough understanding of the situa- 
tion necessitates an outline of their histories. 

**Ota Nobunaga, who was of noble birth, was born in 
1534 in the Province of Owari and reached the age of 
manhood at a critical period in the history of the country, 
a time when strong men were needed to support a weak 
and decadent government, then in the hands of effeminate 
and licentious rulers. The ruling shogun, Ashikaga Yoshi- 
fusa, was a boy of eleven years, while the Mikado Go- 
nara, an imbecile weakling, was utterly powerless to wield 
any influence whatever against the mighty feudal lords, 
who defied royal authority. 

*' Nobunaga rapidly developed into a warrior of re- 
markable skill and ability, and by the time he had arrived 
at the age of thirty-four, had assumed complete control of 

[104] 



NOBUNAGA, HIDEYOSHI, lEYASU 

the royal forces and become the de facto head of the gov- 
ernment. Although, he controlled Japan with absolute 
power for twenty years he never attained the position of 
shogun, but was known as the regent. His mantle of 
authority fell upon the shoulders of one of his most skil- 
ful generals, Hideyoshi, in 1582, in which year he com- 
mitted hara-Jdri while hopelessly surrounded by a large 
insurrectionary army in the temple of Honnoji in Kioto. 
It was during the reign of Nobunaga that Catholicism 
made such prodigious strides in Japan ; indeed it was said 
that in 1567 in Nagasaki * there was hardly a person who 
was not a Christian.' 

*' Hideyoshi, who is commonly known in Japanese his- 
tory as Taikosama, a title of exalted rank, without ques- 
tion may be regarded as the ''Napoleon of Japan." Of 
low parentage and so exceedingly ugly that he was called 
''Monkey Face," he worked his way up to the greatest 
power through sheer force and genius and, at an early age, 
became Nobunaga 's most powerful and trusted lieutenant. 
After the death of his patron he assumed the reins of gov- 
ernment, consolidated the empire which at this time was 
disrupted through many contending factions and finally 
became the implacable enemy of the Roman missionaries, 
who had become so strong at the time as to defy the govern- 
ment. 

" Hideyoshi 's great dream was to conquer China and be- 
come emperor of the East. As an initiatory step to this 
visionary undertaking, he sent a large army across the 
channel from Shimonoseki to subdue Korea in 1592. The 
war was continued many years with varying successes and 
reverses, during which time Japan partially held the 
peninsula. The Chinese came to the assistance of the Kore- 
ans, and undertook to settle the controversy by arbitration. 
They sent an embassy to Hideyoshi, loaded with rich pres- 
ents and a letter of investiture as Emperor of Japan, in- 
stead of 'Ming Emperor,' to which exalted position he 
aspired. War was continued, and while Korea was still 

[105] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

filled with Japanese troops, Hideyoshi died in 1598, it is 
said of anxiety from the thought of the great sufferings 
his troops were enduring in the 'Land of the Morning 
Calm. ' It was during this period that a number of Korean 
potters were introduced into Japan, which marks the era of 
Japanese ceramic art. 

*'0n the death of Hideyoshi the control of the country 
was delegated to a council of five which was dominated by 
the great Tokugawa leyasu, the first of the shoguns of 
that line who were destined to rule Japan, until the Res- 
toration of the Mikado in 1868, two hundred and fifty 
years later. 

*' leyasu Tokugawa, who was by birth a minor daimio, 
was born in the Province of Mikawa and became one of 
the greatest generals and rulers of Japan. Having been 
educated in camp and field under two of the most cele- 
brated and skilful warriors that Japan has ever produced, 
Nobunaga and Hideyoshi, he learned his lessons well and, 
shortly after the death of the latter, had little difficulty 
in assuming the reins of government. During his shogun- 
ate the capital of the ruling shogun was moved to Yedo 
(Tokio), at that time an unimportant fishing village. 

**At his death Hideyoshi left a son named Hideyori, five 
years old, whom he intended as his successor to the shogun- 
ate, and had requested leyasu on his death-bed to see that 
the boy was appointed on arriving at the proper age. Very 
shortly after his death the governors composing the council 
of five, which he had appointed to run the government, be- 
gan to quarrel among themselves and to form factions. 
Jealousy against leyasu very soon manifested itself and 
in a short while developed into war. Mitsunari, a mem- 
ber of the council who was a Christian convert, charged le- 
yasu with infidelity to the request of the dying Taiko rel- 
ative to the appointment of the young man, Hideyori, to 
the office of shogun. 

''In view of the position that leyasu had taken against 
the propaganda of the Catholic Church, which now began 

[106] 




View of Fujiyama from Enoshima, Japan 




Fujiyama, from shore near Kamakura, Japan 



NOBUNAGA, HIDEYOSHI, lEYASU 

to control matters political, the Jesuit priests threw all of 
their influence with Mitsunari and thus forever burnt the 
bridges between the Catholic Church and the favorable 
consideration of the powerful Tokugawa shoguns. With- 
out delay Mitsunari sent an urgent letter to all of his 
friends among the feudal lords charging leyasu with vari- 
ous misdeeds and crimes, and ambition to declare himself 
dictator and assume the reins of government, and on this 
pretext succeeded in raising an army of 128,000 men. 

''leyasu, meanwhile, raised an army of 75,000 men and 
rapidly marched to a small village named Sekigahara, 
where he met the opposing forces. The battle which oc- 
curred there is known as one of the bloodiest in the annals 
of Japanese history and was won by leyasu, although 
with greatly reduced numbers, on account of his superior 
military skill and generalship. The loss of life on both 
sides was very great; the confederated army under Mit- 
sunari, it is said, lost over 40,000 in killed alone. In ac- 
cordance with the custom of war at the time, the heads of 
the vanquished foes were cut off and buried in moimds 
called Kubi-zuka, which can be seen to-day by any one 
who goes over the grounds of this sanguinary battlefield. 
On account of its location it is known as the battle of the 
* Plain of the Barrier,' and it settled most definitely the 
policy of the country for the next two hundred and fifty 
years. 

*'For a number of years thereafter dissenting elements 
arose throughout the country among the adherents of Hid- 
eyori, who had now grown, in 1614, to a youth of nineteen 
years and was receiving the strong support of the Catho- 
lic missionaries and native converts. leyasu saw very 
plainly that, in order to secure a stable form of govern- 
ment, it would become necessary for him to do away with 
the heir apparent, especially as he had discovered a plot, 
through the Spanish friars, who had now entered the coun- 
try through the Philippines, to reduce Japan to the sub- 
jection of Spain under a Christian viceroy 

[107] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

"In view of this conspiracy, in which, it was believed 
that Hideyori was implicated, leyasu set out for Osaka 
with an army of 70,000 men and assaulted the castle there 
in which the young man and his mother were residing. 
The siege which was conducted without the help of artillery 
lasted a long time, but finally the enemy was induced to 
leave the fortifications. The battle occurred on the third 
of June, 1615, and was most sanguinary in character. It 
resulted in the complete overthrow of Hideyori and his 
forces and the destruction of the castle by fire. Diligent 
search was made afterwards for the young prince, but it 
is believed that he committed hara-kiri on learning the 
results of the battle and was consumed in the flames. 

"Now having described the three principal ruling spirits 
of Japan, from the introduction of Catholicism into that 
country, until the issue of the edict for its banishment in 
1616, it will prove interesting to note the various steps in 
the growth of that religion in Japan. 

"Toward the end of the fifteenth century Bartholomew 
Diaz, a Portuguese navigator, had rounded the Cape of 
Good Hope and discovered the long-dreamed-of sea-route 
to India, which ended for all time the supremacy of Ven- 
ice as the terminus of the caravan trading-route to the East. 
Historians tell us that when the news of Diaz's successful 
voyage reached Venice, * bells were rung, men wept in the 
street, and even the bravest were silent.' Others followed 
the sea-tracks of Diaz, but sailing further down the coast 
of India through the straits of Singapore, finally reached 
the coast of China, where later the Portuguese established 
the colony of Macao, the one at present remaining Eastern 
colony of that once daring and courageous race of navi- 
gators. 

"In 1542 Mendez Pinto, a Portuguese trader and navi- 
gator, sailed into the port of Kagoshima, which is the cap- 
ital of the Province of Satsuma on the southern coast of 
Kyushu and was very kindly received by the ruling daimio. 
Before leaving he presented the prince with several 

[108] 



NOBUNAGA, HIDEYOSHI, lEYASU 

harquebuses and some powder and showed him how they 
were used. During his delay at Kagoshima, which lasted 
several months, he noted that the iron-workers of the prince 
had made six hundred guns from the samples he had given 
them and on his return a few years later learned that over 
300,000 of them were delivered to the troops in the island. 
When Pinto finally sailed away he took with him two Jap- 
anese who had become proselytes to the Catholic Church 
through the ship 's chaplain, and left them at the colony of 
Goa where the Jesuit fathers had established a theological 
college. 

** These two natives were instructed in the Christian 
religion and given the names of Paulo de Santa Fe and 
Juan. It was through the information gleaned from these 
two natives that Saint Francis Xavier, who at the time was 
at Goa, decided to evangelize Japan. He returned with 
Pinto in 1549 and landed at Kagoshima, where the first 
Catholic mission was established in Japan. Had Francis 
Xavier been able to foresee the cruel punishment and ter- 
rible fate which was meted out in consequence of the change 
in faith to the simple-minded natives, and the internecine 
strife which was brought about by the contending factions 
of the new religion, he might have thought it better a thou- 
sand times had he never set his foot on Japanese soil. 

**In addition to the two Japanese converts. Saint Francis 
Xavier was accompanied on his journey by two Jesuit 
priests, Cosme de Torres and Jean Ferdinand. The Prince 
of Satsuma received the strangers in a very friendly way 
and accorded them permission to preach, so that within a 
reasonably short time a numerous Catholic congregation 
was established in Kagoshima. 

''The similarity of the forms of the Buddhist and 
Catholic religions is so great, that it was but a short step 
from the pagan to the Christian religion, hence the na- 
tives saw no reason why they should not make the change, 
especially as they had become tired of the arrogance and 
exactions of the Buddhist priests. Each had monasteries 

[109] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

and monks, cloisters and nuns, liturgies and prayers in a 
strange language, relics and reliquaries, rosaries, holy-water 
and incense, sacred images, consecrated church-bells and 
intoned services, altars with flowers and lighted candles, 
shrines and miracle-working saints to which pilgrimages 
were made, priests with vestments and offerings, eloquent 
preachers and great congregations, hermits and penitents, 
penances, abstinence, fasting, celibacy, and intercessory 
prayers for the dead. Indeed the forms and ceremonies 
of the two religions so realistically correspond that the co- 
incidence seems more than accidental and it would natu- 
rally suggest that the Koman Church had practically ap- 
propriated them from its older competitor. 

** Besides the orthodox religions of Buddha and Shinto, 
the holy fathers found on their arrival sects which corre- 
spond to the Protestant faith, with priests who were per- 
mitted to marry and who discouraged penances, pilgrim- 
ages, fasting, ascetic diet, the use of amulets and relics, 
and commending rather a trust in Buddha, praying to him 
directly without priestly intercession, and the desire to 
live a pure and righteous life. These liberal sects were 
zealous in building churches, teaching, and practising a 
religion devoid of ritual. So strongly did these sects cor- 
respond to the simple Protestant faith that the rigid Bud- 
dhists said they outdid the Christians, 

''After interesting the Princess of Satsuma with the pic- 
ture of the Holy Virgin and Child Jesus and translating the 
creed of the Christian faith into Japanese, Xavier sailed 
around to the western side of the island and established 
himself at Hirado where he was cordially received. From 
this point the following year he sailed to Yamaguichi in 
the Province of Nagato, where it is said he endeavored to 
secure permission to establish a church and monastery and 
to preach "the Law of Buddha," but was refused by the 
daimio, who understood the intended deception and, more- 
over, did not take kindly to the new religion. From Yam- 

[110] 



NOBUNAGA, HIDEYOSHI, lEYASU 

aguichi Xavier travelled to Kioto preaching in the various 
villages and towns en route. 

** Owing to the political disturbances and unsettled con- 
dition of the country at the time, he was not received 
favorably in the sacred capital, so after a short delay he re- 
turned to Kyushu and finally sailed for China in Novem- 
ber, 1551, having passed two years and three months in 
Japan. Although he had sown the seeds of Catholicism 
widely in Kyushu he never returned to Japan to witness 
its triumph, for on the way to the island of Sancian he 
was taken ill and died on the second of December, 1552. 
His body was taken to Malacca, but finally was removed to 
the cathedral in Goa. 

** After the departure of Saint Francis, Father Kosme 
kept up the work in Kagoshima and the neighboring prov- 
inces, receiving additional priests and lay brothers during 
the following years from Portugal and Goa. During No- 
bunaga's supremacy and the early part of Hideyoshi's rule 
the work of conversion proceeded with great rapidity, es- 
pecially in the island of Kyushu. The converts were by 
no means confined to the lower classes, for the Jesuit fa- 
thers made it a point to secure the cooperation of the noble 
families and ruling daimios, and in this manner coerced 
the common people. 

*'The powerful Princes of Omura, Chikusen, and Higo 
accepted the cross and became such zealous followers that 
they destroyed the Buddhist temples and idols in their 
provinces and directed their subjects to accept Christianity 
or leave the domain. The acquisition of trade with Europe 
was greatly desired by the Japanese at this time and proved 
a tremendous lever toward the acceptance of the Jesuits, 
who worked hand in glove with the traders. 

''On the accession of Nobunaga to the rulership, he at 
once waged war against the powerful orders of the Buddhist 
priests, who at this time were insolent beyond endurance 
and actually controlled the policy of the government. 

[Ill] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

Like the Catholic countries in feudal Europe during the 
same period, the entire empire was overrun with monas- 
teries and tonsured monks. Nobunaga decided to break 
their power, so in 1571 he burned the temples of Hieizan, 
three thousand in number, slaughtered the majority of the 
monks and banished the remainder. 

"The action of the Buddhist priests in siding with his 
enemies led Nobunaga to favor the establishment of Chris- 
tian churches and thus in a manner play into the hands of 
the Jesuit priests, who carried on an uninterrupted cam- 
paign of proselytism all over the land. The Jesuit fathers 
entirely misunderstood the reason for Nobunaga 's friendly 
attitude toward their religion, for it is an historical fact 
that he remained until the day of his death loyal to the 
faith of his ancestors and is now worshipped as a Shinto 
god, although he always remained friendly to the Jesuits. 

*' During his life the Catholic Church reached its greatest 
supremacy in Japan and, according to Professor Chamber- 
lain of the University at Tokio, had enrolled 600,000 con- 
verts among its members. They had established churches 
in Kioto, Osaka, Kamagawa, and Sendai, and had gained 
a footing in all but eight provinces of the Empire. Ky- 
ushu was entirely Romanized by this time and it is said that 
the converts there alone numbered over 200,000. So strong 
had the new religion become that leyasu had to exercise 
the greatest diplomacy and policy to avoid trouble with the 
powerful princes and daimios who had become converted 
to the new faith. 

** Nagasaki had now become a Christian town and had 
attracted traders from all parts of the world. The gov- 
ernor of Manila wrote a letter to Hideyoshi requesting 
authority to trade and despatched with the embassy four 
Spanish Franciscan friars. At once a bitter feeling arose 
between the Jesuits and Franciscans on account of the in- 
vasion of the latter, who declared, however, that they came 
as ambassadors and not as priests. Pope Gregory the 
Eighth, hearing of the trouble, issued a brief in 1585, de- 

[112] 



NOBUNAGA, HIDEYOSHI, lEYASU 

daring Japan Jesuit territory, which was very distasteful 
to the Spanish monastic orders. Notwithstanding the 
Pope's dictum, Franciscan monks from Manila established 
themselves in Kioto and Nagasaki. 

*'In order to intensify the feeling against the Spanish 
monks a report reached the ears of Hideyoshi, which it is 
said came from a Portuguese sea-captain, to the effect that 
the policy of the King of Spain was first to send out priests 
to convert the natives, then to despatch troops who would 
join the native Christians and make an easy conquest of the 
country. It is recorded in history that one of the court 
physicians had informed Hideyoshi that he had observed 
that the Jesuits were converting the nobles on the pretext 
of saving their souls but that it was simply a device to get 
ultimate possession of the country. Hideyoshi is said to 
have laughed at this remark, but changed his mind when 
he visited Kyushu and found that so many of the nobles 
had become converts and that from 130 to 140 foreign 
priests had entered the country. 

* ' He had now become suspicious of all the foreigners and 
claimed that the opposition experienced among the various 
factions arose from the plots and intrigues of the Catholic 
priesthood. Thereupon he issued an edict in 1587 com- 
manding all religious teachers on pain of death to leave 
the country within twenty days. He allowed the Portu- 
guese merchants however, to continue their trade, but for- 
bade them, on pain of confiscation of both ship and cargo, 
to introduce more priests. The order was disobeyed by a 
number of the fathers, so in order to show them that he was 
in earnest he had six Franciscan friars and three Jesuit 
priests arrested in Osaka and Kioto and taken to Nagasaki 
where they were publicly crucified. 

"On the death of Hideyoshi in 1598, the Catholics 
espoused the cause of Hideyori, in opposition to leyasu, 
who had now assumed control and apparently forgotten 
the edict of 1587 and had become very active again. le- 
yasu in a public document, in 1607, called attention 
S [ 113 ] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

to the previous edict on the subject and directed governors 
of provinces to put it into immediate execution. 

* ' In spite of the frequency of executions during the years 
that followed, large numbers of the priesthood still re- 
mained in the country until 1614, when leyasu became 
very much excited over the subject and issued his edict of 
that year the provisions of which were drastic and severe 
in the extreme. 

**It was now ordered that not only all of the priests 
should be sent out of the country, but that all European 
traders, except the Dutch, should go as well ; that all Chris- 
tian churches should be levelled to the ground and all na- 
tive converts be required to recant under penalty of death. 
He required that all foreigners in the country proceed at 
once to Nagasaki for embarkation and that the native con- 
verts proceed to Tsugara, the northern extremity of the 
mainland. From this time until the arrival of Commo- 
dore Perry in 1853 the country remained sealed to the 
world and, with the exception of the Dutch at Nagasaki, no 
foreigner was allowed to enter it. 

**In order to enforce the edict in Kyushu which was the 
centre of Catholicism, he sent an army of 10,000 men there 
under the leadership of zealous anti-Christians. On Octo- 
ber 25 of that year all of the Jesuit fathers except 
eighteen and nine lay brothers together with 300 Euro- 
peans, left for China. From now on the persecutions 
which followed beggared description. 

**A special council of Christian inquiry was organized 
to hunt down native converts, who were subjected to every 
possible kind of torture greatly resembling the Spanish In- 
quisition. The tortures imposed were far more cruel than 
death itself. Crucifixion, drowning, and strangling were 
merciful compared to some of the methods of punishment. 
They were executed in a most barbarous manner in the 
sight of one another, hurled from the tops of precipices, 
buried alive, torn asunder with oxen, tied up in rice bags 
and set afire, left to starve to death in cages exposed to the 

[114] 



NOBUNAGA, HIDEYOSHI, lEYASU 

public gaze. In some cases spikes were driven under the 
nails of the fingers and toes. One of the most horrible pun- 
ishments of this Japanese inquisition was known as the 
* Torments of the Fosse.' The victim was enclosed in a 
covering with nothing exposed save one hand and fas- 
tened by both feet with a rope which was drawn up over a 
post provided with a cross piece. The body, head down- 
wards, then swung in the pit and remained in that position 
for eight or ten days until death occurred. The suffering 
was excruciating as the victim swung in the fosse, blood 
exuding from mouth and nose with a terrible pressure on 
the brain. Should he recant, a motion was made by the 
free hand. It is said that all of these punishments were 
unknown to Japan before the priests from Portugal and 
Spain found their way there. 

^* Until the missionaries arrived in Japan the natives 
were happy, contented, and lived a peaceful life, worship- 
ping in any way they pleased. leyasu the shogun loved 
peace and was a patron of art. He established schools to 
encourage literature both in Fushimi and Kioto, and en- 
couraged trade in a most liberal manner. leyasu died in 
1616 but his son, lemitsu, carried out his father's pro- 
gramme with cruel thoroughness. Rewards were offered 
for the discovery of Christians and finally every person was 
required to stamp on a copper plate containing an image 
of the Saviour. 

**The persecutions dragged along from year to year un- 
til 1637 when the famous revolt of the Christians at Shim- 
abara occurred among the natives in the Province of Ar- 
ima, in part due to the misgovernment of the daimio. It 
is said that 40,000 Christians gathered at the deserted cas- 
tle of Hara and defied the shogun. This is known as the 
Rebellion of Shimabara and an army of 160,000 was re- 
quired before the revolt was put down. An order was re- 
ceived from Tokio to put every one to death, which was 
done, regardless of whether it was man, woman, or child. 
The frightful termination of the rebellion was apparently 

[115] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

the death-blow to Christianity in the country, although 
constant watchfulness against the 'Corrupted Sect,' as 
the Christians were called, was enjoined by the authorities 
until after the Restoration in 1868. 

' ' We are told that the name of Christ for centuries after- 
wards became a term of reproach and would blanch the 
cheek, bate the breath, and smite one with the fear of an 
earthquake when mentioned. Throughout the entire em- 
pire in every city, town, village or hamlet, by the road- 
side, ferry or mountain-pass stood notice-boards on which 
were prohibitions against crimes, which would disturb so- 
ciety, but to them all was there no penalty affixed so severe 
as that for being a Christian. The very sight of the cross 
startled ever and anon the simple peasant, added increased 
maledictions to the curse of the Buddhist priest, made the 
judge to shake his head and the mother to hush the crying 
of her fretful child by conjuring with the name of Christ. 

*'And yet in spite of uninterrupted alertness on the part 
of the authorities, accompanied by the severest punishment 
for the slightest infraction of the iron-clad rules, Chris- 
tianity withstood every test and lasted in secrecy until dis- 
covered in the villages around Nagasaki as late as 1865. 
So deeply imbued with the new cult had some of the fam- 
ilies become that both father and mother forbade their 
tiny children to recant, preferring to have them accom- 
pany them to the funeral pyre, although they were so ig- 
norant of the Christian principles as to know little more 
than the name of the Holy Virgin and the Child. ' ' 

''A very remarkable episode. Major," said the Judge as 
the former finished his story of the persecutions of Chris- 
tianity in Japan. *'But you know that wherever the Ro- 
man Church has been planted personal liberty has been re- 
strained, education restricted, and civilization retarded. 
Yes, and more than that, for the history of every country 
which she has controlled is filled with pages of crime, con- 
spiracy, insurrection, murder, and war. Look at France, 
Italy, Mexico, Cuba, Spanish America, and poor old de- 

[116] 



NOBUNAGA, HIDEYOSHI, lEYASU 

graded, bigoted, priest-ridden Spain herself, the head- 
quarters for centuries of this self-consuming cult. I sin- 
cerely believe, Mr. Rhodes, that had Catholicism never got- 
ten a foothold in the Philippines the natives there would 
have been as far advanced along the lines of civilization as 
pagan Japan is to-day." 

**Do you believe Christianity retards the civilization of 
a pagan nation, Judge? " asked the Major. 

'*By no means," replied the Judge. *'I believe that 
modem Christianity has done more for civilization in the 
Orient than every other factor combined, but when I say 
Christianity, I refer to the principles enunciated by Christ 
on Calvary and not to the dogmas conceived by ambitious 
and unscrupulous men in order to acquire wealth and to 
gain control over men and governments." 



[117] 



CHAPTER XIII 

THE BEAUTIFUL ENVIKONMENT OF 
NAGASAKI 

Japanese Ricksha-Men — The Ricksha of the East — • 
Its Invention by an American Missionary — The 
Bronze Torii and Horse — The Annual Religious 
Festival of July — The Moto-Kago-Machi and Its 
Shops — The Fish-market of Nagasaki — Coaling 
Steamers — Trip to Moji — The "Waterfall of Kw^an- 

NON-NO-TAKI PENINSULA OF ShIMABARA ThE BlIND 

Masseurs — The Disembodied Spirits of the Gulf — 
Massacre of the 40,000 Christians — Japanese Rail- 
roads AND Trains — Sleepers and Buffets. 

BY the time the Major had finished his account of the 
persecutions of Catholicism in Japan, it was quite 
10 o'clock. 

' ' If we wish to see anything of the Southern Capital and 
its environment," exclaimed the Judge, "we had better 
start now, as we remain but two days in Nagasaki. ' ' 

** That is true, my friend," replied the Major, **so let 
us go below at once and secure our rickshas." 

Lined up below in front of the hotel were a dozen or 
more smiling and solicitous ricksha-men, bowing, scraping, 
and blowing through their teeth for a job, patient little 
sturdy human horses in their dark blue cotton blouses, 
knee breeches, and straw sandals, their heads surmounted 
by mushroom-shaped hats of woven split bamboo. Hour 
after hour are these willing little creatures able to jog 
along at a lively gait, cheerful with it all in spite of the 

[118] 



ENVIRONMENT OF NAGASAKI 

heavy well-fed foreigners they are compelled to draw in 
order to eke out a precarious living at ten cents an hour. 

The tiny two-wheeled carts with regular buggy covers 
appear like baby-carriages, and require a certain amount 
of art to mount. The sensations one experiences at first 
are more or less droll and usually evoke considerable mirth. 
All over the East, from Japan to the Straits Settlements, 
as a matter of every-day fact, one encounters the busy 
jinricksha-men darting down long courses, across cities, 
through parks, and waiting patiently before temples or 
other places of entertainment, with the devotion of a dog, 
for the small pittance they finally receive when the day 
is done. They become very useful to the traveller in many 
ways, for they not only transport him from place to place, 
but his trunks, valises, and packs as well. Long trips 
through the country can be made in these strong little car- 
riages, the ricksha-man not only acting as the propelling 
force, but as guide and interpreter as well. Over good 
roads they are able to make ten miles an hour with ease. 

A ricksha-man in rainy weather is a sight worth seeing 
indeed, for in lieu of rubber, their rain-coats are made of 
long grass and straw in the shape of a short cloak drawn 
closely around the neck, while they wear a skirt of the 
same material and likewise a conically pointed grass hat 
which hangs down over the ears. The tout-ensemhle is 
ludicrous in the extreme and reminds one of a straw 
scarecrow. The jinricksha, which means in Chinese a-one- 
man-power-carriage, is said to have been the invention of 
an American missionary more than forty years ago and has 
become so generally used, that it is scattered from Tokio 
through Korea, Manchuria, China, and India to Singa- 
pore. An enterprising American concluded he would in- 
troduce them into the Philippines and ordered a hundred 
for Manila, but our little brown brother said '^no quiero/' 
so the scheme **died in the horning.'' 

As the Major stated, there are few points of interest to 
visit in Nagasaki aside from the few temples, the shops, and 

[119] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

the docks and engine works. The principal temple, the 
0-suwa, is known as the ''Bronze Horse Temple" and be- 
longs to the Shinto faith. It is located high up on the 
hillside and is reached by a long and tiresome stairway, 
at the foot of which stands the largest bronze torii in 
Japan. The bronze horse stands in the temple court sur- 
rounded by handsome camphor trees from which an ex- 
quisite view of the harbor is obtained. The original 
temple which stood on this site was destroyed during the 
seventeenth century and replaced by a Catholic church, 
which in turn was destroyed and supplanted by the pres- 
ent building. 

Nagasaki has been noted for its religious festivals and 
still celebrates with great pomp and ceremony the festival 
to the gods of 0-suwa and to the spirits of the dead who 
are supposed to visit the scenes of their earthly careers 
on the thirteenth to the fifteenth of each July. The shop- 
ping district is to the visitor possibly the most interesting 
locality in Nagasaki. It extends fully a mile and a half 
along the central part of the town and especially along the 
Moto-Kago-Machi. 

Many beautiful articles of art are exposed for sale in 
the attractive little shops, such as fans, cloisonne, Ijacquer, 
ivory carvings, embroideries, bronzes, brasses, porcelain, 
screens, tortoise-shell combs, silks, toys, and a hundred 
other useful and ornamental articles. One of the special- 
ties of Nagasaki is the tortoise-shell comb which is carved 
to perfection by workmen who have inherited the art from 
their ancestors. Besides the many beautiful combs, some 
of which are as rich as dark mahogany while others are as 
bright as taify, are card-cases, buckles, hair ornaments, 
fans and a hundred other articles made of tortoise, which 
are of equal finish and perfection in workmanship. 

The fish-market here is one of the best in the world, 
and in variety Nagasaki stands second to none. Across 
the bay are located the ship-docks and engine works. The 
docks are sufficiently large to receive the largest sea-going 

[120] 



ENVIRONMENT OF NAGASAKI 

vessels and have proved a great blessing to the shipping 
that enters the port there. Quite recently the Government 
has turned out several vessels of over six thousand tons' 
burden. 

One of the most interesting sights in the harbor occurs 
during the coaling of steamers which is practically per- 
formed by women. There are no wharfs in the harbor, so 
everything is loaded or unloaded from lighters or cas- 
coes. The amount of coal to be loaded is sent out on 
scows accompanied by hundreds of women who pass the 
coal along in small baskets containing from forty to fifty 
pounds. The women range themselves along the side of 
the ship on ladders and pass the baskets so rapidly from 
below upwards that the baskets almost appear as though 
attached to a revolving strap worked by machinery. On 
the backs of some of these little stevedores can be seen the 
babe, its little head wobbling about with every motion of its 
mother, while sound asleep and apparently dead to the 
noisy crowd around. So swiftly can a ship be coaled in 
this way that the Empress received over two thousand 
tons in less than three hours and a quarter quite recently. 

The afternoon was pleasantly passed in making the trip 
over the hills to the little village of Moji, which lies on 
the Gulf of Obama, five miles away. In order to make the 
trip it was necessary to employ two men for each ricksha, 
for the trail leads over the hills, at an elevation of fifteen 
hundred feet above the sea at its highest point, and in some 
places is quite steep. 

The beauty of the scenery well repays one for the 
fatigue of the trip which is attractive and interesting the 
entire distance. On the crest of the road one finds a 
charming little hamlet, where refreshing soft-drinks, sake 
and beer, can be obtained, as well as the universal beverage 
of the country, freshly made green tea, which is frequently 
drunk; also sponge cake and peppermint creams, two of 
the noted confections sold in the tea-houses of Japan. In 
order to catch the American eye as well as to advertise 

[121] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

their liquid wares, huge announcements, with the pictures 
of many of our prominent generals and admirals, were 
posted on the walls, bearing conspicuously in large let- 
ters the words, *' Drink Dewey Tansan, Miles Sake, and 
MacArthur Beer/' 

Moji lies in an inlet of the Obama Bay and commands 
a fine view of the sea. The little village is supplied with 
several semi-foreign inns where an excellent fish dinner 
can be secured for a moderate price. A small steamer 
runs from this point to the town of Obama across the bay, 
which makes a delightful outing at almost any season of 
the year, for the climate of Nagasaki is very comfortable 
in the winter and almost semi-tropical in summer. 

There are a number of pleasant outings in the vicinity 
of Nagasaki which would repay the traveller, who is not 
pressed for time and is in quest of interesting places out- 
side of the beaten tracks. Only five miles north of the 
city and but a few minutes from the Michino-o station, are 
located the popular saline springs of Urakami-Onsen, which 
can be reached either by train, ricksha, or on foot. 

To the east of Nagasaki lies the celebrated waterfall of 
Kwannon-no-taki, ten miles away and practicable for 
rickshas all the way by taking the road which passes 
through the village of Himitoge. The falls may be reached 
on foot in an hour and a quarter by taking the trail to 
the village of Yamagami. The little temple built there in 
1730 is dedicated to Kwannon, the goddess of mercy, who 
is so variously represented in the many temples of the 
Empire. The Sanjusan-gendo Temple of Kioto contains 
33,333 images of this celebrated goddess, one of which 
possesses 1,000 hands. The cascade shoots over the rugged 
cliffs into a pool fifty feet below, which is surrounded by 
planted terraces of cherry trees, maples, and camellias, and 
presents a most gorgeous and striking scene of beauty 
during the flowering season with the picturesque back- 
ground of the hills beyond. 

Four miles to the south of Nagasaki rises the cone of 

[122] 




Waterfall in Korakuyen Park, Okayama^ Japan 




Temple Pagoda, Osaka, Japan 



ENVIRONMENT OF NAGASAKI 

Sarutazama from whose lofty peak, 1,500 feet above the 
sea, can be obtained a glorious panorama of both land and 
sea. The crown of the mountain is known as *'The Vir- 
gin, ' ' and it competes in a measure with the famous Jung- 
frau of the Swiss. 

Before leaving Nagasaki every one should visit the his- 
toric Peninsula of Shimabara which lies to the northeast 
and is connected with the mainland by a narrow, moun- 
tainous isthmus. In going there the traveller can take the 
railroad to the town of Isahaya, or make the journey on 
foot or in ricksha across country from Nagasaki, via Himi- 
toge, Yamagani, and the hamlet of Koba, which presents a 
landscape of fine perspective and surpassing beauty. In 
any case, after leaving Isahaya the journey down the 
shore of the peninsula must be made in ricksha or afoot, 
for from that point the railroad proceeds north to Moji, 
the northern seaport of the island. 

The Peninsula of Shimabara is without doubt one of the 
most beautiful and picturesque sections of enchanting 
'Japan and possesses a historic and legendary interest equal 
to its physical beauty. Like a vast portion of the em- 
pire it consists of rugged and magnificent mountain ranges, 
smiling valleys with sparkling streams, and an artistic 
landscape, dotted with towns, hamlets, and feudal castles. 

There are many celebrated health-resorts in the penin- 
sula containing thermal springs of more than local repu- 
tation, some of which attract patronage from remote sec- 
tions of the empire and even from the Chinese coast. 
Obama, on the eastern shore, consists almost entirely of 
hotels and inns and has become quite famous as a health- 
resort on account of its noted chalybeate springs which 
possess great virtue for rheumatic complaints. 

From time immemorial in Japan the profession of mas- 
sage has been delegated to the blind and no doubt almost 
every traveller in the country has heard, at some time dur- 
ing the evening hours, the doleful whistle of the blind 
masseur as he wends his way home after the day's work 

[123] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

is done. An imperial edict centuries ago prohibited any 
but the blind from belonging to the guild, so that at many 
of the popular bathing-resorts blindness is feigned by a 
few, in order to practise the art. 

The story is told of a prominent American society woman 
of Manila who visited Obama a few years ago, and during 
her sojourn there employed a masseur apparently hope- 
lessly blind. She remained in his care for several weeks 
and was surprised at his wonderful accuracy in finishing 
the seance exactly at the end of the prescribed hour. In 
consideration of his total loss of vision the patient had no 
hesitancy in divesting herself of surplus raiment during 
the massage, but was very considerably surprised on one 
occasion, in looking behind her suddenly, to find her amma 
sen gazing at the face of his watch, by which means he 
had ascertained the duration of the treatment. 

From Obama a path leads off to Kojigoku which lies at 
the foot of the three chief peaks of the Unzendake range, the 
highest point of which is Fugen-dake, 5,000 feet above 
the sea, from which point a magnificent view of the prov- 
inces of Higo and Satsuma can be obtained. In the neigh- 
borhood of Kojigoku are many geysers ejecting water from 
two to five feet in the air. Fanciful names have been 
given to some of them on account of the peculiar sounds 
they emit, as, for instance, Dai Kyokwan, or the ''Loud 
Wailing," the Chuto Jigoku, or the ''Second Hell." It 
was into some of these boiling geysers that the Christians 
were thrown by the court of inquiry established by leyasu 
in 1616. Along the coast of the peninsula are the towns 
of Kuchinotsu, Arima, and Shimabara, the latter two 
places being castle towns and intimately associated with 
the horrors of the Christian persecutions. 

On the waters of the Gulf of Shimabara, twice during the 
year, from midnight to early dawn, appear thousands 
of pale red globes moving about on the surface of the 
waters like so many uncanny spirits and lighting up the 
coast for miles around. It will be remembered that it was 

[124] 



ENVIRONMENT OF NAGASAKI 

in the old castle walls of Arima, a few miles from Shim- 
abara, that the dreadful massacre of the 40,000 Christians 
occurred in 1638, and the simple natives firmly believe to 
this day that the singular lights seen on the bay are the 
spirits of the disembodied dead who return bi-annually to 
the scenes of their martyrdom. 

Our visit to Nagasaki was over and we felt well repaid 
for the two days passed there and in its charming envir- 
onment. The trip to Moji had been a great success and 
our appetites, provoked by the fatigue and excitement of 
the journey, discouraging enough to our courteous host. 

''You have evidently enjoyed your visit to Nagasaki, 
Mr. Rhodes," said the Judge, as we sat on the piazza dur- 
ing the evening enjoying our cigars, "and I am sorry we 
cannot stay longer. We have a long journey ahead of us 
and a short time to make it, so must leave to-morrow. ' ' 

"Yes," said the Major, "three months to travel through 
'Japan, Korea, Manchuria, and China and to return to 
Manila besides." 

"Less than three months, my dear Major," said the 
Qfudge, "for we have already dawdled a week of our 
precious time away since leaving Manila, thanks to the 
cholera. " . 

"Well, gentlemen," said the Major, "we will have to 
arrange our campaign to meet the conditions, so I propose 
that we spend one month in Japan, ten days in Korea, ten 
days in Manchuria, and one month in China, which will 
still leave us four days from Hong Kong to Manila, quite 
enough time to get home without a court-martial." 

"The division of time suggested by the Major," said the 
Judge, "seems reasonable and I vote we accept it. The 
next question of importance is the method of transporta- 
tion to Yokohama, whether it shall be by water or rail. ' ' 

"Quite important," said the Major. "There are four 
excellent steamship lines that touch here from Hong Kong 
and Shanghai for Yokohama, the Toyo Kisen Kaisha, Nord- 
deutcher Lloyd, Nippon Yusen Kaisha, and the Messa- 

[ 125 ] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

geries Maritimes, all of which touch Shimonoseki and Kobe 
en route. Then there is the Imperial railway which runs 
from here to Hok-kaido on the north coast and passes 
through all of the principal cities en route." 

**From what point do we sail for Korea?'' I asked. 

**From Shimonoseki," said the Judge. 

*'Well, gentlemen," I replied, ** suppose we go north by 
steamer, and return by rail from Yokohama to Shimono- 
seki, which will give us an opportunity to see the interior 
points of interest and the wonders of the Inland Sea as 
well." 

It was therefore settled that we leave in the morning, 
going by rail as far north as Shimonoseki, which important 
seaport lies at the entrance of the Inland Sea, across the 
strait opposite Moji. All of the 5,000 miles of railway 
now extending through Japan belong to the national gov- 
ernment, except four hundred miles. Originally built by 
private companies, seventeen lines were purchased by the 
government through the Railway Nationalization Law. 
The State Lines extend from Nagasaki on the south to 
Hok-kaido on the north, a distance of 1,700 miles, which 
virtually traverses the entire empire, except the Island of 
Yezo which lies across the Tsugara Strait in the extreme 
north. Besides the State line, the country is penetrated 
by many branch roads which connect the principal inland 
towns and seaports with the main north and south line. 

Japanese railroads, which are patterned after the Amer- 
ican system, are well constructed, excellently run, and, 
on the whole, exceedingly satisfactory. The mileage, 
first-class, amounts to less than two cents per mile, while 
the second-class is almost equally comfortable at about 
one and a third cents per mile. The rate of speed is 
not equal to American express trains but, on the other 
hand, accidents are practically unknown. The employees, 
from the conductor to the fireman, are uniformed and all 
of the railway stations are plainly marked in English. 

The sleepers are built also on the American plan and 

[126] 



ENVIRONMENT OF NAGASAKI 

many of the passenger coaches are provided with buffets 
and separate compartments in which excellent food can be 
secured at very reasonable figures. The following articles, 
with buffet prices, demonstrate the fact that as late as 
1908, the cost of travelling in Japan was still within the 
range of the poor man : — soup 12 cents, fish 15 cents, beef- 
steak 15 cents, roast-beef 20 cents, beef cutlets 20 cents, 
roast chicken 20 cents, ham and eggs 20 cents, omelet 15 
cents, curry and rice 15 cents, bread 5 cents, tea or coffee 5 
cents, cake or fruit 3 cents, while sake, whiskey, brandy, 
vermouth, beer, and mineral waters ranged from 7 to 10 
cents. 



[127] 



CHAPTER XIV 

ISLAND OF KYUSHU AND THE SATSUMA 
REBELLION 

Departure for Shimonoseki — Picturesque Scenery 

ALONG THE LiNE OF RAILWAY ArITA, THE HOME OP 

Beautiful Porcelain — Takeo and the Feudal Town 
OF Saga — History and Legends of Kyushu — The 
Satsuma Rebellion — Saigo Takamori as Councillor 
OF State — Growing Influence of Foreigners at 
Court — Attack on Kumamoto — The Campaign of 
THE Rebels — Last Stand of Saigo — His Death by 
Hara-kiri — The Little Cemetery of Kagoshima — 
Statue of Saigo in Ueno Park, Tokio — Scenes 
Farther North — Fukuoka, Hakata, and Okura — 
Arrival at Shimonoseki. 

ON arrival at the depot the following morning we 
found many of our fellow transport-passengers there, 
but missed the charming bride with the silken lingerie and 
the disappointed son of Mars who had been tricked out 
of his cold bottle and hot bird, that eventful night in 
Nagasaki Bay, by the little band of his Imperial Majesty's 
quarantine inspectors. 

The train left at 9 :30 a.m., and although we did not 
reach Shimonoseki until 7 p.m. that evening the journey 
was very pleasant and interesting. The day was bright 
and glorious and the rich fields of rice on each side of the 
road, now turning yellow, reminded one of the golden 
wheat fields of North Dakota just before the harvest time. 
After leaving Nagasaki, the road-bed follows along 
a pretty valley which appeared entirely in crop, 

[ 128 ] 



ISLAND OF KYUSHU 

as well as the sides of the hills as far up as their tops, 
which were terraced by walls of solid masonry. The pa- 
tient labor expended in the masonry of agricultural ter- 
racing and on bridges, rivers, and inland streams as well 
as the shores of the Inland Sea, fairly dazes the foreign 
visitor. During our entire journey scarcely a modest 
brook was seen whose banks were not securely confmed by 
walls of superb and compact granite masonry. In passing 
along the shores of the Bay of Omura, an excellent view 
of its surface, its pine-clad islets, and background of 
rugged mountain ranges was obtained. The scenery was 
enhanced a thousand-fold by the sky lines on the crest of 
hill and mountain planted in fantastic trees as if by 
design. 

Fifty miles north we reached the town of Arita, made 
celebrated centuries ago by its beautiful porcelain, which 
industry was started by Daimio Nabeshima about 1592. 
It was during the war against Korea, which Hideyoshi 
was waging, that large numbers of Korean potters were sent 
as captives to Japan, and this marks the beginning of the 
ceramic art in this country. The manufacture of porce- 
lain soon became fashionable all over the empire under 
the patronage of the leading daimios, and hence the fa- 
mous potteries of Satsuma, Owari, Kaga, Hizen, Seto, 
Hirado, Hakata, and many others, each of which has a 
specialty of its own. 

From Arita on to Moji many interesting and historical 
points are passed which would well repay a visit by the 
traveller, with an abundance of leisure, and a desire to 
become better acquainted with Old Nippon and its won- 
derful people. Takeo, farther along, is noted for its hot 
springs and oysters, the latter, obtained from the sea-coast 
near by, being very large in size and exceedingly succulent. 

Beyond Takeo we passed the old castle town of Saga, 

once the seat of the Nabeshima family, the powerful feudal 

lords of Hizen. Little of the old castle remains beyond 

a few crumbling walls, to mark the stronghold of this 

9 [ 129 ] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

once famous family. The chief feature of the town is the 
Shim-baba Park, which contains shrines dedicated to 
the ancestors of the Nabeshimas. Farther on we reach the 
town of Tosu, the junction of the railroad which when 
completed will extend south as far as the town of Kago- 
shima. Our journey to this point had been delightful and 
we had but arrived at the junction of the southern road 
when the Major proposed lunch in the buffet car. 

*'I am sorry to leave Kyushu without having an oppor- 
tunity to become better acquainted with the island," I 
remarked to my friends. 

**You could spend six months here, I am sure, and still 
find sections of the island worth visiting, ' ' said the Judge. 

* ' The history and legends of Kyushu, ' ' added the Major, 
**are as interesting and rich as the landscape is pictur- 
esque and beautiful. The feudal lords in this section of 
the empire had become very powerful from the beginning 
of the Tokugawa dynasty and bitterly fought the inno- 
vations from Europe after the restoration in 1868. One 
of the saddest pages in the history of dying feudalism is 
connected with the powerful Satsuma family of Kagoshima, 
and is known as the Satsuma Rebellion. If you are not 
familiar with the story, Mr. Rhodes, I will be happy to 
give you the details, because I feel that no one should visit 
Japan without being acquainted with this remarkable page 
of Japanese history. 

''During the twenty-five years following the treaties 
made with the various European powers after Commo- 
dore Perry's visit in 1853, which had opened the Hermit 
Nation to the world, a strong reactionary party among the 
natives arose, opposing the policy of Europeanization 
which was rapidly progressing. Many of the old cus- 
toms were beginning to disappear under the new regime 
and the infiuence of the foreign embassies which had be- 
come established in the capital city. 

''Among the leaders of this party was the powerful 
Lord of Satsuma, whose entire clan had become irrecon- 

[130] 



ISLAND OF KYUSHU 

cilable to the state toward which matters were tending. 
They saw that with the new liberal form of government 
innovations from Europe were gradually creeping in, and 
that within a few years the samurai and the power of the 
daimios would disappear. 

**This rebellion, which records the last struggle and 
death of the feudal system, was due to that intrepid spirit 
and wonderful soldier-statesman, Saigo Takamori, who 
had rendered the most signal service during the restora- 
tion of the Imperial Government in the revolution of 
1867-68. Saigo did not approve, however, of the rapid 
Europeanization of his country which had swiftly fol- 
lowed the Restoration and the abandonment of the time- 
honored customs and traditions of his people, did not want 
foreign embassies established in the country, or the 
Christian religion permitted. He cordially hated all for- 
eigners and considered them little less than barbarians. 
Supported by a strong army, himself a man of unusual size 
and handsome appearance, besides possessing a strong mag- 
netic personality and being the idol of the samurai, Saigo 
was a foe of no mean importance. 

"The Mikado recognized his growing opposition and at- 
tempted in every way to conciliate him. He was invited 
to Tokio and given the high position of Sangi, Councillor 
of State, but owing to the many changes resulting from 
foreign innovation he left the capital and returned to 
Satsuma. He now established military schools through- 
out the various provinces of Kyushu, in which the art of 
war and the principles of Bushido were taught. 

''In spite of the liberal tendency of the national gov- 
ernment at Tokio, Satsuma and its lords remained as 
feudal as ever and chafed under the growing strength 
and influence of the foreigners at court. Prince Saburo, 
accompanied by a hundred of his samurai dressed in the 
old war costume, left Kagoshima for Tokio to remonstrate 
with the Mikado against the changes which were taking 
place, but was horrified on his arrival there to find that the 

[131] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

ancient custom of wearing two swords had also been abro- 
gated by an Imperial order. 

''For centuries past the samurai had regarded the privi- 
lege of wearing the swords of their ancestors as a divine 
right. It is said that the haughty feudal lord sadly left 
Tokio with his retainers carrying their swords in cotton 
sacks, instead of proudly thrust into their girdles as of 
yore, and that the sight was pitiful and humiliating in the 
extreme. 

''The tension under such circumstances could not last 
long, for all of Kyushu was afire with discontent. Dressed 
in their ancient costumes and armor and armed with 
swords and halberds, about two hundred of the samurai 
fell upon the garrison of Kumamoto and slew about three 
hundred of the Imperial troops. This trouble was tempo- 
rarily patched up, but the following January the govern- 
ment began quietly to remove the powder and other 
munitions of war stored in the arsenal at Kagoshima. To 
this the Satsuma men strongly objected and began them- 
selves to appropriate the stores. 

"Admiral Kawamura, who was a Satsuma man and a 
relation of Saigo, and Prince Saburo were sent to Kago- 
shima to adjust the difficulty with the rulers of the island. 
Things were apparently going along smoothly enough 
when five boat-loads of armed samurai rowed out to the 
Admiral's ship with hostile intentions, which ended fur- 
ther negotiations. 

"Without delay, Saigo now assembled an army of 
14,000 men and began to march to Tokio, expecting an in- 
crease of 100,000 men by the time of his arrival there. 
Unfortunately he delayed at Kumamoto to reduce the com- 
mand at that point, which was securely intrenched in the 
castle of the town. This move cost him the success of the 
uprising, inasmuch as the delay there enabled the govern- 
ment to transfer a large opposing army to Kyushu to meet 
Saigo 's forces. Battle after battle was fought through- 

[132] 




»5 

X 

< 

H 
Oi 
O 
Ph 

Q 
< 
w 

Q 

W 
oi 

W 

< 

Oh 
< 

o 

H 
H 

o 



ISLAND OF KYUSHU 

out the island, terminating as a rule in favor of the Im- 
perial forces. 

^'In spite of Saigo's superior generalship he was forced 
south. It is said that in making his escape he exe- 
cuted his retreat in a most masterly manner. Losing town 
after town he was forced to Nobeaka, which was finally 
taken from him and from which, with a few hundred of 
his most faithful and tried samurai, he cut his way out and 
disappeared among the mist-covered hills of the coast. 
The remainder of his army surrendered to the Imperial 
troops and the rebellion was for a while considered at 
an end. 

*'But not so, for Saigo with his unusual force and per- 
sonal magnetism had gathered around him another army 
and marched rapidly towards Kagoshima, his ancient cap- 
ital, which immediately fell into his power again. Ad- 
miral Kawamura assembled his fleet there shortly after- 
wards, and with fresh troops the rebels were forced to the 
summit of a hill, called Shiroyama, which dominated a 
large portion of the town. 

** Finally, surrounded by an Imperial army of 15,000 
men and reduced to a fighting force of 500 samurai, Saigo 
determined to sell his life as dearly as possible by fight- 
ing until the last man fell. Again and again he was re- 
quested to surrender by the friendly foe which realized 
the hopelessness of his cause. Seeing there was no pos- 
sible means of suspending further hostilities, the heavy 
guns of the fleet were turned on the devoted band of 
the new Thermopylae, and amidst shot and shell, assisted 
by the musketry of the Imperial troops, within a few hours 
all were killed except a mere handful who were taken 
prisoners. 

''Saigo fell mortally wounded and, though in a dying 
condition, sought the assistance of one of his lieutenants, 
Hemmi Jinroda, who performed the friendly oflice of re- 
moving his head, after he had voluntarily submitted to 

[133] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

the time-honored custom of hara-kiri. The dead were re- 
moved to the town below and afterwards to the cemetery 
where Saigo now lies surrounded by his devoted band 
of samurai, who freely sacrificed their lives out of love 
for their distinguished leader and the principles of Old 
Japan. Should the traveller who visits Kagoshima go to 
the little cemetery there, he will find the temple lamp 
brightly burning to Saigo 's sacred memory and many of 
the humble natives bowed in reverential prayer before 
his tomb. He is still loved to-day by the masses and 
looked upon by the thousands who yearly visit his grave 
as one of Japan's greatest heroes. Although a rebel, 
Saigo 's reputation has never suffered in public esteem and 
even the Imperial Court respects his memory. The ban 
of degradation was removed in 1890 and the dead com- 
mander-in-chief reinstated posthumously in all his honors. 
A handsome statue has since been erected to Saigo by the 
nation and placed in a conspicuous place in the Ueno 
Park of Tokio.'' 

The treatment of this eminent rebel by his country con- 
trasts strongly with that accorded the great Southern pa- 
triot and soldier, Robert E. Lee, whose bust was denied a 
niche in Statuary Hall by the sentiment of the nation 's un- 
reconstructed citizens, although like Saigo, he spent the 
best part of his life in the service of his country. 

By the time the Major had concluded his story of the 
Satsuma Rebellion, we had reached Dazaifu, the old cap- 
ital of Kyushu and the former seat of the governor-gen- 
eral. Before and during the Middle Ages it was con- 
sidered a post of political exile and was usually given to 
men of high rank who were persona non grata at the 
shogun's court. Here was built the great Shinto temple 
dedicated to Ten j en, copies of which were constructed else- 
where in the empire. 

Farther up the road lies Fukuoka, formerly a castle 
town and the seat of the Kuroda family, the lords of 
Chikusen. The castle is now occupied by national troops. 

[134] 



ISLAND OF KYUSHU 

The cemetery contains the tombs of the old family with 
square shafts over the graves of the males and round 
shafts over the females, marked in old Chinese characters. 
The Kurodas were one of the most powerful families in the 
empire and became early converts to Catholicism. The 
present daimio has become a marquis under the new 
regime, and his son, who is a graduate of Oxford, is a 
prominent anti-foreigner and ant i- Christian. 

Hakata, which is the port town to Fukuoka, is noted for 
its silk fabrics. Some of the patterns made there repre- 
sent frost crystals, or moonlit scenes on water ruffled by 
breezes. Quite recently they have been manufacturing a 
beautiful fabric of interwoven pictures. Besides the silk 
industry, Fukuoka is noted for the manufacture of a 
faience which is an excellent imitation of the celebrated 
Chinese Yao-pien-yao. This ware possesses an exquisite 
lustrous glaze of the flamhe type, a rich transparent brown 
passing into claret color, with flecks or streaks of white 
and clouds of iron dust. Between Hakata and Moji there 
is no place of sufficient importance to warrant a stop-over, 
except at Okura, at which point the Japanese Government 
has established important iron-works on the model of the 
Krupp establishment in Germany. 

Moji, the end of the route on the northern border of 
Kyushu, has grown to be a town of considerable impor- 
tance since its establishment as the terminus of the Na- 
gasaki railway in 1891 and, on account of its sheltered 
position, possesses a secure and safe harbor. 

Our train arrived on time and shortly afterwards we 
were transferred to a comfortable launch belonging to 
the railway system and conveyed to Shimonoseki, one mile 
across the channel, the western gate of the famous Inland 
Sea. 



[135] 



CHAPTER XV 

THE SHIMONOSEKI AFFAIR — VOYAGE THROUGH 
THE INLAND SEA 

Arrival at Shimonoseki — The Sanyo Hotel — Shipping 
Point for Korea, Manchuria, and China — The Shi- 
monoseki Affair — Conditions in Japan at the Time 
— Captain David McDougal and the "Wyoming" — 
The Dutch Frigate *' Medusa" and the ''Tancrede" — 
Bombardment by the Allied Fleet — The Indemnity 
OF $3,000,000 — The Return of America's Share — 
Battle of Dan-no-ura — Loss of the Taira Host — 
The Inland Sea and Coast Defences. 

^T^HE crimson glow of the early twilight was deepening 
J- into the purple shades of night when we landed on 
the wharf at Shimonoseki and a few minutes later were 
wheeled away to the Sanyo Hotel, located but a few 
hundred yards distant. This excellent and commodious 
hostelry belongs to the Imperial railroad system and is con- 
structed of concrete. The rooms are large and airy, fur- 
nished with modern European furniture and provided with 
excellent bathing facilities. Under the American plan the 
Sanyo compares very favorably with railroad hotels in the 
large cities of the United States. 

In completing the railroad to Moji and Shimonoseki a 
few years ago the government saw the necessity of con- 
structing a suitable hotel at this important point, which 
is situated at the western entrance to the Inland Sea and 
is the port of departure for vessels leaving for the seaport 
towns along the coast of Korea, Manchuria, and China 

[136] 



THE SHIMONOSEKI AFFAIR 

and is, besides, a place of embarkation, either by rail or 
water, for travellers from Nagasaki, Kagoshima, and in- 
tervening points on both branches of the Kyushu railroad 
system. 

We were sorry indeed that we were able to spend but a 
single day and night in the Gate City of the West, as 
Shimonoseki is sometimes called. On arrival at the hotel 
that evening we learned that the Tennu Maru, of the 
Toyo Kisen Kaisha, was due from Hong Kong the fol- 
lowing morning en route to Yokohama, so decided to re- 
verse our plans by going north via the Inland Sea and 
returning by rail. ^'This arrangement," said the Judge, 
"would enable us to pay our respects to Northern Japan 
before the weather became chilly and disagreeable, as it 
frequently does early in October in the vicinity of Nik-ko 
and Matsushima. " 

Although Shimonoseki is a town of no special interest 
and possesses but one long street which runs parallel to 
the strait, its strong batteries, concealed by the heavy 
undergrowth located in the high and rugged hills in the 
background, make it one of the most strongly fortified 
harbors on the coast. It was here that Li Hung Chang 
in 1895, at that time Premier of China, signed the treaty 
of peace with Japan, by which Formosa was ceded to the 
Mikado's realm and 300,000,000 taels paid as an indemnity 
for injuries sustained during the Chino-Japanese War. 

Shimonoseki lies within the Province of Shoshu, the 
domain of that once powerful lord, the Daimio of Shoshu, 
who not only defied the forces of the shogun in 1863, but 
the fleets of the allied nations as well. 

''The Shimonoseki Affair, as it is historically known, 
Mr. Ehodes," said the Major, ''fills a very interesting 
page in Japanese history, and it would afford me pleas- 
ure to give you the details if you would like to hear 
them." 

"My knowledge is very imperfect on this point, ^lajor, " 
I replied, "so please let us hear the story." 

[ 137 ] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

**Well, " said the Major, ''before relating the incident, 
and in order to fully appreciate the situation, you should 
know something of the conditions which existed in Japan 
during those stormy and unsettled days of national 
excitement. 

*'0n the arrival of Commodore Perry in July, 1853, 
Japan was awakened from a profound slumber of two 
centuries and a half, a condition of somnolency which had 
existed ever since the great Tokugawa shogun in 1616 had 
sealed the country to the outside world. 

"In connection with the story of the eradication of 
Catholicism during the early part of the seventeenth cen- 
tury and throughout the eighteenth, which was sum- 
marized in a previous conversation, you will remember 
that a bitter and intense feeling had been fostered in the 
hearts of the Japanese people against foreigners. This 
feeling arose after the fearful edict of leyasu in 1616 
and burned fiercely until the very day they were forced 
by American bluff to open their country to the civilized 
nations of the world. 

* * The invasion of the Barbarians, as the Americans were 
called, and the treaty which had been exacted from the 
Yedo government on July 27, 1854, provoked an inter- 
necine war, which spread from Kjaishu on the south to 
Hakadote on the north. The anti-foreign feeling had 
grown so strong, as a result of the treaty, that the lives 
of Europeans and Americans were not safe from the 
frenzied mob even on the streets of Tokio, under the 
shadow of the powerful shogun 's castle and the protec- 
tion of his armed samurai. The anti-shogun party in 
Kioto had withheld, as long as possible, the Mikado's sig- 
nature to the final treaty in 1858 and the country was in 
the throes of an approaching civil war, which seemed 
inevitable. 

''The progress of the civilized world demanded that 
Japan, the hermit nation, should remove the barriers 
which had throttled the national growth of the Japanese 

[138] 



THE SHIMONOSEKI AFFAIR 

people for centuries and stood in the way of commerce 
and trade with the Orient. And when the doors were 
opened the powerful opposing daimios were paralyzed with 
dismay in discovering the futility of arraying their feudal 
warriors, armed with bow, spear, and matchlock, against 
the modern arms of the Western world and the frowning 
guns of Perry's fleet. The ink had scarcely dried on the 
treaty parchment before a succession of outrages and 
murders occurred in Tokio which appalled the foreign resi- 
dents with fear. Civil war soon followed the olive branch 
which Perry had carried across the great Pacific, and 
swords flashed from red and white scabbards throughout 
the country. 

''Many of the samurai detached themselves from the 
service of their legal lords and became ronin in order to 
enter conspiracies against the foreigners without involving 
the heads of their clans. Native sympathizers were not 
spared, and that incomparable statesman and friend of 
the Liberal party, the great Premier Li Kamon-no-kami, 
was assassinated in March, 1860. In 'January, 1861, the 
secretary of the American embassy was attacked and 
mortally wounded, and a few months later several mem- 
bers of the British legation guard were killed. A year 
later Colonel Neale of the British legation was attacked, 
and murders among attaches of foreign legations became 
so common that the shogun found it necessary to furnish 
them with guards. 

''Two great political parties had now sprung into ex- 
istence, the Liberals, who advocated the treaty and the 
admission of the foreigners, and the Conservatives, whose 
tocsin was 'Japan for the Japanese' and who were anxious 
to return to the traditions of their forefathers. In ad- 
dition to these two strong national parties there was a 
third, which was inimical to the dual government and hence 
opposed to the shogun. 

"Among the anti-shogun men were the powerful daimios 
of Satsuma, Shoshu, Hizen, and Tosa, who controlled im- 

[139] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

mense independent armies of samurai and were abundantly 
able at any time to defy the combined forces of the shogun 
and Mikado. The Lord of Shoshu, who was also violently 
anti-foreign in his feelings and controlled the western gate 
to the Inland Sea, determined that he would no longer 
suffer the ships of the foreign devils to pass through the 
strait, and in addition to a number of strong batteries 
which he planted overlooking the town of Shimonoseki, 
stationed two armed ships of war in the harbor. 

''About this time, on June 25, 1863, a small American 
trading vessel, the Pembroke, while quietly passing 
through the strait to sea from Yokohama, was fired upon 
by Lord Shoshu 's batteries, but fortunately escaped unin- 
jured. A few days later a French despatch boat met with 
a similar attack, but was not so fortunate as the Pem- 
broke. This was followed, on July 11, by an attack on the 
Dutch frigate Medusa and, finally, on the twentieth, by an 
attack on the French gunboat, the Tancrede. 

''Fortunately for the honor of the United States, the 
American sloop-of-war Wyoming, which was lying at Yoko- 
hama at the time, hastened to Shimonoseki and, single- 
handed, administered a severe rebuke to the rebellious 
lord. Under a cloudless sky Captain David McDougal, in 
command, entered the harbor and pushed up to within a 
few hundred yards of the daimio's warships, "both of 
which he destroyed, besides killing over a hundred of the 
enemy. On leaving the harbor he demolished several of 
the forts on the hills and, save for a few hits and several 
killed, escaped uninjured. Four days later the French 
gunboat Tancrede, accompanied by the frigate Semiramis, 
with a force of 250 men, shelled the fortifications, and after 
landing captured one five-gun battery, besides killing a 
number of the enemy's men. 

"In spite of these two severe administrations of disci- 
pline, Lord Shoshu continued to fortify the strait and pre- 
vented foreign vessels from passing through for more than 

[ 140 ] 



THE SHIMONOSEKI AFFAIR 

a year. As both the shogun and Mikado were unable to 
call the refractory chief to terms, the allied forces in 
Japanese waters decided to do so, and consequently with 
a fleet of seventeen ships, armed with 208 guns and manned 
by 7,590 men, sailed into the strait of Shimonoseki, Sep- 
tember 5, 1864, and opened fire on the shore batteries. 

**The fight continued two days, at the end of which 
time the allied fleet had demolished all of the forts and 
captured Shoshu and his remaining forces. The fleet con- 
sisted of nine British men-of-war, three French, four 
Dutch, and one American, the latter being a chartered 
steamer armed with a single Parrott gun. As a conclusion 
to the affair the nations involved demanded an indemnity 
of $3,000,000, which was finally paid in half million dol- 
lar installments. It is to the credit of the United States 
to add that our government in 1883, in response to a 
widely extended public opinion, refunded their share, 
which amounted to $785,000. The daimio of Shoshu had 
learned this well-needed lesson and, like the daimio of Sat- 
suma who had been severely punished on account of the 
Eichardson Affair, from this time on, saw the folly of re- 
sisting the armament of the Western world.'' 

**The story is highly entertaining, Major," I observed, 
"but I would like to know the motive which influenced the 
American public to desire a restitution of the indemnity. ' ' 

''In the first place," replied the Major, ''the American 
people, who first and last believe in fair play, felt the 
demand to be rather harsh and unjust for the reason that 
the Yedo government had made ample apology for the 
conduct of the rebellious daimio, and besides, on account 
of the unsettled state of the country which resulted from 
Commodore Perry's demands, was unable to control his 
actions; and in the second place, the Americans have al- 
ways shown themselves to be the most generous foe in 
the world. This was exemplified especially during the 
Spanish- American War, particularly when we turned over 

[141] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

to the enemy a most princely sum for the privilege of 
administering a good sound trouncing, which they richly 
deserved. ' ' 

''That is true," added the Judge, ''and I believe that 
the Americans approach nearer to practising that divine 
injunction, 'Love your enemies,' than any other nation on 
the face of the globe." 

"While we are discussing sea battles, Mr. Rhodes," said 
the Major, "I should not fail to mention the greatest 
naval engagement in the annals of the Japanese Empire, 
which occurred near the village of Dan-no-ura, but a few 
miles below Shimonoseki and plainly visible from here. 
An obelisk which marks the stage of this terrible carnage 
stands upon one of the lonely wave-swept rocks near the 
shore and the simple-minded fisher people in returning 
from the catch during the twilight hours often imagine 
that they can plainly see the Taira hosts rising from the 
sea. 

"For a century or more before this memorable affair 
occurred, which was in 1185, two powerful feudal families, 
the Tairas and Minamotos, who as regents controlled the 
dynasty for centuries, occupied all of the official offices at 
court and the governorships of the provinces and had, be- 
sides, furnished the Mikados and royal princes with wives 
from their families. 

"A few years before the appointment of Yoritomo to 
the shogunate, which was in 1192, quarrels and disagree- 
ments, no doubt prompted by jealousy, arose and led to 
the war of the 'red and white flags,' which colors marked 
the banners of the Tairas and Minamotos. The death of the 
tyrant Kiyomori hastened the conflict and transmitted 
the leadership of the Taira clan to his son Munemori. 

"In a great battle at Kioto, a short time after the death 
of Kiyomori, Yoshinaka, the leader of the Minamoto forces, 
administered an overwhelming defeat upon the Taira 
legions, as a result of which Munemori, with the reigning 
Mikado and imperial court, crossed over the Inland Sea 

[142] 



THE SHIMONOSEKI AFFAIR 

to the island of Shikoku, where the capital was temporarily 
established. 

* ' Yoshitsune, the half brother of Yoritomo, was de- 
spatched to follow the fugitive court. Having received 
information of the movements of the Minamotos, Mune- 
mori embarked with his army and the Imperial Court in 
his fleet of 500 junks and sailed west over the Inland Sea 
with the Island of Kyushu as a distal point, hoping in 
that wilderness of uninhabited valleys and mountains, to 
find a refuge for his fleeing hosts. 

**Yoshitsune followed with a large army, which was em- 
barked in 700 junks, and overtook Munemori just as he 
was entering the strait of Shimonoseki. At that early 
date fire-arms formed no part of the armament of the 
samurai, so the battle was fought with spear, sword, bow, 
and arrow, and it is said that at its conclusion the sea for 
miles around was stained a crimson hue. 

''The Tairas were encumbered with many women and 
children, so Munemori 's hosts fell easy victims to the 
well-trained warriors of Yoshitsune. The dowager-em- 
press, widow of Kiyomori and grandmother of the young 
Mikado, seeing that the day was lost plunged into the sea 
with the child Mikado in arms and both were drowned. 
With few exceptions all who escaped the sword were 
drowned, and thus perished the last of the Tairas, who for 
centuries past had represented the chivalry of feudal 
Japan. 

"Historians state that a remnant of Munemori 's band 
escaped to the shores of Kyushu, which as you know are 
only a few hundred yards away, and made their way to 
the mountain fastnesses of Higo Province. Singular as it 
may seem, a small tribe which exhibits a peculiar aversion 
to strangers has been foimd in the mountains of that 
province, bearing a striking resemblance to the once pow- 
erful Taira clan. 

** Japan, as you will find out later, Mr. Rhodes," con- 
tinued the Major, '*is a land of romance and stands un- 

[143] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

paralleled among the nations of the world in feats of mili- 
tary valor. The warlike spirit and fighting qualities of 
the Japanese people were little known to the world at 
large before that great contest in which the Kussian Bear 
was so completely muzzled by the pygmies of Dai-Nippon. ' * 

We had passed a very comfortable night and a pleasant 
day in the Gate City of the West, and felt somewhat loath 
to leave as the great mail steamer came puffing into the 
harbor for an hour's halt and exchange of mail. When 
we clambered aboard at 2 p.m. we regretted deeply that 
we had to lose so many quaint touches of scenery and 
beautiful vistas, which would be closed from view during 
the hours of night. 

To see the Inland Sea properly one should do the trip 
in a private yacht, or, in lieu thereof, a hired native boat, 
which will answer the purpose quite as well. With few 
exceptions the entire path from Shimonoseki to Kobe, a 
distance of 250 miles, is strewn with fantastic islands, 
convulsive looking rocks, and quaint bits of landscape 
decorated with feudal castle towns. 

The globe-trotter who has sailed along the classical 
shores of the Mediterranean under the blue skies of Italy, 
penetrated the labyrinthine channels of the South Sea 
archipelago and the mazy passage among the Thousand 
Islands of the Saint Lawrence, will uncompromisingly 
place the palm-leaf wreath upon the fair brow of the In- 
land Sea which affords the most picturesque and beauti- 
ful sea voyage in the wide, wide world. 

This notable sea, which is known as the Japanese Med- 
iterranean, is bordered on the north by the main island 
of Nippon, on the south by Kyushu and Shikoku. Its 
western outlet, the strait of Shimonoseki, narrows down 
to a mile in width, while the contracted channels of Naruto 
and Akashi on the east, which stand guard between the 
island of Shikoku and Awaji on the south and the main- 
land and Awaji on the north, with the exception of the 
wide channel of Bungo between Kyushu and Shikoku, 

[144] 



H 

> 

z 

n 

w 

H 
O 

H 
W 

> 

c 

> 

H 

w 
> 

JO 

> 





Kegon Falls, outlet to Lake Chuzenji, near 

NiK-KO, Japan 



THE SHIMONOSEKI AFFAIR 

render the Inland Sea quite secure against military 
invasion. 

Nature has divided the sea into five large basins which 
are separated from one another by a maze of islands, islets, 
and rocks. While these miniature archipelagoes add 
greatly to the beauty of the journey, they increase very 
materially the difficulties of the navigator. 

Very shortly after leaving Shimonoseki on going east 
the ship passes out of the narrow strait and glides into the 
Suwo Basin, which appears somewhat like a land-locked 
lake, and terminates at the first group of islands fifty 
miles away, the dividing line between it and the lyo Basin. 
The beauty and grandeur of the Inland Sea begins at this 
point, and with few interruptions, continues on to Kobe 
two hundred miles away. It would prove an endless task 
to undertake a description of this enchanting sea which 
has proved a greater factor in moulding the artistic genius 
of the people than the wonders and beauties of the famous 
Sendai. 

From the moment of leaving the Suwo Basin we enter 
a group of fantastic islands, indented by uneven and 
jagged shores and crowned with overhanging hills and 
mountain peaks. Far up their sloping sides, which are 
covered with the intensest green verdure, may be seen the 
picturesque hamlets of the natives and the zigzag road 
descending to the sea. Along the shores for miles stretch 
chains of gray-roofed "vdllages, artistic sea-walls in well- 
executed masonry, groves of pines whose crazy, fantastic 
branches, extending in every direction, remind the tourist 
of the frenzied motions of an excited maniac. 

The panorama changes momentarily as we glide along, 
and now we pass a solitary peak, upon whose summit stand 
the crumbling walls of an ancient castle, the former strong- 
hold of a once powerful daimio, which instantly recalls 
to memory some similar scene overlooking the beloved 
Rhine of the Fatherland. Ever and anon an active vol- 
cano looms up in the distance, whose lurid flames cast 
10 [ 145 ] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

golden shadows at night, for miles around over moun- 
tain, valley, and dale, and light the mariner's course 
through the ever-changing field of islet and rock. 

Along the hillsides are temples soaring high above the 
gray roofs of the villages below, or peeping out from 
densely wooded slopes upon the mountain, while beyond, 
sometimes extending to the sky-line above, are golden 
fields of waving rice. At the foot of many of the gently 
sloping hills are monstrous torii, forming entrances to 
avenues of stone or bronze lanterns, leading to nearby 
temples, or marking the tomb of some feudal lord of 
old. 

Across the bosom of the waters, gliding in every direc- 
tion, thousands of sampans, junks, and trading sloops are 
seen engaged in the fishing industry of the neighboring 
islands, or the local commerce of the Inland Sea. 

From start to finish the scene is filled with life and 
sparkles with brilliant and harmonious color of every 
shade. In the Spring-time the delicate pink and white of 
the cherry and hawthorn blossoms along the mountain- 
sides make a glorious contrast with the verdure of the 
trees and turf, and form a superb setting to the pale 
green sea, streaked here and there in shallow places. Let 
him who loves the gorgeous scarlet and golden yellow of 
the momiji or maple and the rich shades of sepia and 
brown hasten to artistic Nippon during the early days of 
Fall. 

And thus we sail on and on, through the ever-changing 
groups of islet, rock, and crag, the stage rearranging itself 
as we pass by, the panorama varying with continued in- 
terest from sunrise to sunset. It matters not whether it 
be in the glare of the mid-day sun, or under the gentle rays 
of a harvest moon, during the blush of pristine Spring, 
or the tinge of the early Fall, or even when hoary Winter 
shakes his icicled head, the Inland Sea stands as a peer far 
above all other earthly competitors in the realm of natural 
beauty and picturesque scenery. 

[146] 



THE SHIMONOSEKI AFFAIR 

And what has Japan done to protect her interests, the 
thriving cities, important seaport towns, and rich terrain 
within the boundaries of the famous land-locked Inland 
Sea? Alive to the importance of this national problem, 
she has spent millions of the country 's unearned dividends 
to keep out an invading fleet in case of war. 

All of the straits, except the Bungo Channel, have been 
rendered impassable by the most powerful forts. A last 
barrier has been erected between the north coast of Shi- 
koku and the south coast of Nippon, as the main island is 
commonly called. They have organized defensively the 
passages of Geiyo and Kaiyo which are commanded by the 
heights of Kure, passages which are notoriously difficult 
to enter on account of their winding courses. 

The principal fortified points of the Inland Sea are the 
Shimonoseki-Kokura-Moji group of forts in the strait, at 
Kure, which is the largest and most important military 
post in Japan, at Hiroshima and Ujina, a point of embarka- 
tion for troops, and finally at Kobe and Osaka. 



[147] 



CE AFTER XVI 

ORIGIN OF THE JAPANESE RACE 

Arrival at Kobe — Brief Visit to the City — Origin of 
THE Japanese People — The Ko jiki and Nihon ji, the 
Japanese Bibles — Mythological Origin of the Peo- 
ple IZANAGI and IzAMAGI, THE JAPANESE AdAM AND 

Eve — The Sun-Goddess Amaterasu — Her Playful 
Little Brother — Amaterasu Retires to Her Cave of 
Darkness — The Ainos — Malays from Malaysia — 
— The Mongols from China and Korea. 

WE left Shimonoseki at 2 p.m. on the date of embar- 
kation, and promptly at noon the following day en- 
tered the harbor of Kobe, which was founded in 1868 and 
is the most important commercial port in Japan. It is a 
favorite city in the empire on account of the dryness and 
purity of its climate and proximity to Osaka, Nara, and 
Kioto, the heart of old Japan. 

The steamer remained until 6 p.m., when we continued 
our journey to Yokohama where we were billed to arrive 
the following afternoon. The few hours we had passed in 
Kobe enabled us to visit the shopping district only, leav- 
ing a thorough inspection of the city for our return from 
the North, when in all probability, we would remain sev- 
eral days. 

My brief visit of three days to Japan had materially 
increased an already existing admiration for these re- 
markable people, who, mushroom-like, had sprung up in a 
generation from comparative obscurity to be one of the 
most advanced and progressive nations in the world. Who 

[148] 



ORIGIN OF THE JAPANESE RACE 

were they and from whence did they spring, were ques- 
tions which had been revolving in my brain ever since my 
arrival at Nagasaki, so I had fully made up my mind to 
have the problem solved if possible. 

The opportune moment arrived after reembarkation and 
while enjoying a choice Havana with my friends the Judge 
and Major on completion of a ship's dinner which would 
have reflected credit on Delmonico or the most favored 
cafe on the Boulevard des Capucines. 

"From what I have already seen and heard," I re- 
marked, addressing the Judge, ''I am decidedly mystified 
over the origin of this remarkable race." 

''There has been very considerable discussion among 
ethnologists in regard to this question," replied the Judge, 
' * and as far as I can learn it has never been definitely set- 
tled. I have given the matter considerable study and will 
be glad to impart what information I have acquired." 
After lighting a fresh cigar he continued with the follow- 
ing story : 

* ' The origin of the Japanese people is veiled in the deep- 
est mystery of the past and beyond the legend and tradi- 
tion which have floated down the aisles of unrecorded 
time, there is nothing upon which a historical reckoning 
can be actually based. 

''It is true that the Japanese have settled the question 
for themselves by declaring they have descended from a 
race of gods and to this day believe that the Mikado rep- 
resents an unbroken line of successors from Jimmu Tenno, 
who dates from the year 660 B.C. and is presumed to be of 
divine origin. 

"In support of this theory they present the Kojiki and 
Nihongi, two sacred books written respectively in 711 and 
720 A.D., which contain the history of the creation of the 
islands forming the empire, the origin of their inhabitants, 
which of course is entirely mythological, and a chrono- 
logical table of its rulers down to the eighth century. 

' ' The art of reading and writing was first introduced into 

[149] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

eJapan in 284 a.d. from Korea through the Buddhist priests, 
but was not generally known to the people before the fifth 
century. For this very important reason it becomes evi- 
dent that the knowledge of preceding events among the 
Japanese, as among the Grecians, was passed down from 
mouth to mouth. 

** About the year 673 a.d. the Emperor Temmu, who de- 
termined to preserve the true traditions of his forefathers 
and country, ordered a careful examination of all records 
then in existence. It is said that these were eventually 
committed to memory by an officer of the court possessed 
of a prodigious memory, and eventually resulted in the 
compilation known as the Kojiki. Before this book wa^ 
finished the Emperor died, but it was carried on to com- 
pletion under the direction of the Empress Gemmyo in the 
year 711 a.d. 

*'Nine years later, during the reign of the Empress 
Gensho, the Nihongi was completed. The Kojiki deals 
largely with the early history of Japan, its mythology, and 
the genealogies of its emperors, while the Nihongi treats 
largely of its mythology. The study of these books, made 
possible by the translation of Professor B. H. Chamberlain 
of the University of Tokio, is interesting beyond meas- 
ure, but is of no historical value. 

**In order to support Shintoism, which was the natural 
religion of the country and consisted mainly of ancestor 
worship of the Mikados, it became necessary to support the 
theory of their divinity and descent from Amaterasu, the 
sun-goddess of the celestial plane. The mythological idea 
of the genesis of the people of Dai-Nippon satisfies the van- 
ity of the Japanese people and possibly after all may be as 
rational as the creation of the world, as portrayed in the 
first four chapters of the Hebrew Bible, with which it in a 
great measure corresponds. It is said that the statements 
contained in the Kojiki and Nihongi are complicated and 
contradictory and the question remains whether the most 
profound Japanese scholar can unravel the mystery. 

[150] 



ORIGIN OF THE JAPANESE RACE 

** These two books, which are regarded as the Japanese 
Bible, state that in the beginning there was infinite space 
and neither heaven, nor earth, nor sun, nor moon nor any- 
thing else existed but one god, who was the lord of the 
central plane of heaven, and no one else. 

**Next on the scene appear two other gods, known as 
the Lofty and Divine Producers, who were followed in 
turn by other celestial gods, the last pair being Izanagi and 
Izamagi who are recorded as the Japanese Adam and Eve. 
The lives of these gods extended over unlimited geons of 
time; some of them are said to have lived over 800,000 
years. These men, who were gods, correspond to the pre- 
adamite race of god-men alluded to in the first four chap- 
ters of Genesis, who were created in the image of God but 
who, it is thought, reproduced their progeny in a manner 
far beyond human understanding, unless it were possible 
that they were endowed with dual sexuality. Thus far the 
mythological creation of the world and human race as enun- 
ciated in the Kojiki, corresponds to the Mosaic creation of 
the Hebrews. 

''Until the appearance of Izanagi and Izamagi, the Jap- 
anese Adam and Eve, according to their mythology, man 
was also created in a fabulous manner and without the co- 
operation of woman. Izanagi unlike Adam, who fell into 
a profound sleep and produced Eve, dived into the ocean 
and while arising from the water plucked his daughter 
Amaterasu, the sun-goddess, from his left eye, Susa-no-o, a 
son, the god of the moon, from his right eye, and a sec- 
ond son, a tempestuous god, from his nose. 

** Although Izamagi, his wife, had died and gone to 
Hades according to the Kojiki, Izanagi continued giving 
birth to children and it is recorded that he was blessed with 
more than a hundred. Up to and including the creation 
of Izanagi they were divine, but from that period on they 
became semi-divine and changed their base from the celes- 
tial plane above to the islands below by means of a floating 
bridge, upon which they descended. 

[151] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

''Amaterasu, the sun-goddess, who ruled in the sun, was 
finally given part control of the earth in connection with 
two other gods, the Lofty and Divine Producers. During 
one of her visits to earth, she became the subject of an 
amusing story, which displays one of the most constant 
qualities of the female character. 

"Her brother Susa-no-o, who was mischievous, as little 
brothers usually are, played such an outrageous joke on 
his sister that she retired from the world into a cave and 
left it in utter darkness. She had been quietly spinning 
in her cabin, probably working for some missionary soci- 
ety, when Susa-no-o stealthily climbed on the roof of her 
residence and dropped down over her head the freshly 
skinned hide of a piebald horse. This was too much for the 
fair goddess, so she quietly left her playthings and im- 
mured herself in the cave. 

"The intense darkness of the world became the sole 
topic of conversation among the thousands of gods, who im- 
mediately assembled to discuss the matter and to devise 
means to restore the presence of the Amaterasu. They 
finally decided to hold a musical orgie, and thus through 
song and dance to woo the dazzling goddess from her cave 
of darkness. The entertainment, which was held in front 
of the cave, was celebrated with wild dance and joyous 
song by Izume, dressed in fancy costume, while the gods 
joined in with loud laughter and hand-clapping. This 
proved too much for the curiosity of Amaterasu, who 
quietly stepped to the door, and before she was aware, 
peeped into a large mirror which intentionally was held 
up before her by one of the gods and in which she saw 
her beautiful features reflected. At the same moment an- 
other god possessing immense strength, stepped behind 
her with a rice-straw rope, which he threw across the door, 
thus preventing her return. To this day a straw rope sur- 
rounds all Shinto temples, which is supposed to ward off 
evil spirits. 

"From the kingdom of the sun Amaterasu finally sent 

[152] 



ORIGIN OF THE JAPANESE RACE 

her grandson Ninigi, whom she appointed sovereign of Ja- 
pan and his descendants forever. Before leaving his 
grandmother's kingdom he was presented with the sacred 
mirror, sacred sword, and the sacred stone. The sacred 
mirror has ever remained under the protection of a high- 
priestess at the sacred shrine of Ise, the sacred sword in the 
temple of Atsula near Nagoya, while the sacred stone has 
ever been kept by the Mikado. 

' ' Ninigi-no-Mikoto, with the sacred emblems and accom- 
panied by a host of gods, is said to have descended from 
heaven upon Mount Kirishima in the Province of Satsuma, 
from which point the conquest of Japan was made by his 
grandson, Jimmu Tenno, in 660 B.C., the first historic em- 
peror of Nippon, all previous ones being Shinto gods. 
Starting from the Island of Kyushu, Jimmu rowed up 
through the Inland Sea with his band of warriors, over- 
coming and subjugating the savages he encountered. 

"After a miraculous career he died, a hundred and thir- 
ty-seven years old, and was buried at Kashiwabara in the 
Province of Yamato, where he had finally established his 
capital. The date accepted as that of his accession to the 
throne, February 11, has been made a public holiday in 
Japan and was chosen for the promulgation of the new 
constitution in 1888. The story of Jimmu is no doubt 
mythological, but probably echoes through the lapse of cen- 
turies the tradition of an invasion by some mighty war- 
rior, possibly from Korea or China. 

''While no one knows with certainty the origin of the 
Japanese, there is every reason to believe the race to be a 
composite, a Mongolian and Malay blend, built up from 
Aino ancestry. The origin of this curious offshoot of hu- 
manity, which is almost white in color, belongs to the great 
Aryan race, but is clothed in the purest conjecture. They 
have lived probably three thousand years in Japan since 
their exodus from their native land and are now regarded 
as Japan 's primitive settlers, although the Ainos themselves 
give an account of a race of dwarfs who occupied the land 

[ 153 ] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

on their arrival and lived in holes in the ground. The 
Ainos, who no doubt at one time were very numerous and 
occupied nearly all of the mainland, have become reduced 
to a few thousands, through wars and other prejudicial 
conditions, and are now relegated to the lower half of Sag- 
halin and the Island of Yezo. The original home of the 
Aino, like that of the present evoluted race, can only be 
determined by conjecture or linguistic and ethnological 
study. 

*'The Japanese language is isolated from all others and 
stands alone in the linguistic family, unless allied with 
that of the Loochooans. Philologists have traced resem- 
blances between the [Tapanese and the roots of a language 
spoken in the ancient Turano-African Empire which 
wrought many changes in the human race on its dissolu- 
tion. Others have classed it with a language spoken by 
the Tunguses, a roving band occupying the eastern portion 
of Siberia in the valley of Amoor. 

"Dr. Kaemper, who spent two years in Japan during 
the early part of the seventeenth century, believes the Ainos 
came from Babylon at the time of the confusion and found 
their way through Persia, along the shore of the Caspian 
and by the banks of the Oxus to its source, crossed China, 
descended the Amoor, and followed south through Korea, 
from which they passed over to Japan. Mr. Griffis, who 
spent many years in Japan, believes the Japanese, Man- 
chus, and Koreans congeners. There is no doubt but that 
they are very much mixed now, whatever may have been 
their original race. While the relationship of languages 
has a great bearing on races, it must not be forgotten that 
a primitive dialect can become completely effaced in the 
course of time by a different race of greater potentiality. 

**The Ainos, who during their early history occupied 
nearly all of the mainland as far south as the Island of 
Kyushu, were followed by waifs and strays who drifted 
from the Malay Islands of the South Seas, with the warm 

[154] 



ORIGIN OF THE JAPANESE RACE 

waters of the Black Current which flows north along the 
coast of Luzon, Formosa, and the Loochoos, and guided by 
the volcanic lights on each side of their course, reached 
the southern extremity of Japan, and ultimately found 
their way as far north as Yedo. There is every reason to 
conclude that the wave of emigration from Malaysia, which 
reached Japan, was contemporary with the early settle- 
ment of the Philippines and Formosa, or followed very 
shortly in its wake. The average physique of the Japanese 
corresponds more closely to that of the Malay to-day than 
to that of the Chinese or Korean. 

''Besides, their food, customs of living, and architecture 
mark with great accuracy the resemblance of the Japa- 
nese, Filipinos, and natives of the Celebes. They live prin- 
cipally on rice and fish, dress in cotton texture, wear bam- 
boo or grass hats, and occupy houses built on posts, light 
and frail in structure, and with ideas prevalent in tropical 
climates. Any one acquainted with the Malayan features 
would not fail to note many points of resemblance between 
the Japanese and the races of the South Seas. Certainly 
in few respects do the architectural ideas of the Chinese or 
Koreans agree with those of the Japanese, or their ideas of 
domestic economy. 

* ' It is true that from the third and fourth centuries vast 
hordes of Chinese and Koreans began to invade Japan 
from the southern coast of China and the peninsula of 
Korea, bringing with them the Chinese and Korean civili- 
zations and the religion of Buddha. They brought rich 
treasures in the way of learning, the arts and sciences, 
painting, the manufacture of porcelain, and a different 
system of government. So many and great were the 
changes made in the early days of Japanese history, that 
a few centuries later it was generally believed that the 
Japanese were of Mongolian origin. 

*' Owing to the great foreign influences exerted over the 
Japanese civilization about this period, the primitive names 

[155] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

of rivers, mounteins, streams and other natural features 
of the country were plastered over with Chinese ideograms 
and thus in a manner the early traces of the Ainos were ob- 
literated. Chinese influence also created many features 
of resemblance between the Japanese language and their 
own, although the Aino spoke a dialect entirely of Aryan 
origin. There is little doubt, therefore, that the original 
blend of Malay and Aino was greatly influenced by the 
great wave of emigration proceeding from China and 
Korea before and after the Christian Era and that the 
Japanese race has become composite through the infusion 
of Malay-Mongolian blood. Receptive to a degree, the 
Japanese have absorbed also the most advanced ideas of the 
Western world and thus, within a half century from com- 
parative obscurity and national ignorance, have become the 
advance-guard of civilization in the Orient." 

"I have been informed," said the Major, ''that the 
mixture of Aino blood with the Mala^^ and Mongolian is 
not very enduring and that the offspring do not survive 
long." 

''Yes," replied the Judge, "that has been stated as a 
fact by several foreign observers who have studied the 
Japanese racial question. They declare that miscegenation 
with the darker races creates a progeny which rarely sur- 
vives after the fourth generation. "Whether they are cor- 
rect or not I am unable to say, but the fact remains that 
the Japanese are composite, a blend of Malay-Mongolian 
with the primitive people of the islands whoever they may 
have been." 

"The case of the present race of Dai-Nippon," I re- 
marked, "like that of the Insular Empire of Great Brit- 
ain, has greatly changed since the beginning of the Chris- 
tian Era." 

"An excellent comparison, Mr. Rhodes," replied the 
Major, "for there is no doubt but that the invasion of the 
Romans, Norsemen, Saxons, and Normans has about as 

[156] 



ORIGIN OF THE JAPANESE RACE 

completely obliterated the cave-dwellers of Great Britain 
as the Malays and Mongolians have the pit-dwellers of 
Nippon. ' ' 

"Well, gentlemen," continued the Judge, "it is well 
past six bells, and as there are other days, I will say huenas 
noches y duerme Men/* 



[157] 



CHAPTER XVII 

A BIRD'S EYE VIEW OF YOKOHAMA 

Arrival in Yokohama — The Principal Hotels — The 
Celebrated Bluffs op Yokohama — The Japanese 
Merchants and Chinese Tailors — Hunky-dory, the 
Sailors' Resort — Yokohama a Fishing Village in 
1853 — Mr. Richardson and the Bombardment of Ka- 
goshima — Result of the Engagement — Indemnity op 
$500,000 — Escape op Mr. Richardson 's Murderer. 

IT was half past three the afternoon of the following 
day when we dropped anchor in the- Bay of Tokio, for- 
merly known as Yedo, and proceeded at once to the Grand 
Hotel, which is located on the Bund and commands a fine 
view of the harbor. The first glimpse of Yokohama is dis- 
appointing to the traveller, who makes his initial landing 
in Japan, in finding a large metropolitan city which from 
its architectural appearance might just as well be located 
in England or America. 

He is greeted by wide and well-paved streets, tall and 
handsome commercial buildings, large and commodious ho- 
tels, and sidewalks fairly crowded with a European clien- 
tele. The reason for this apparently anomalous condition 
is easily understood, when we remember that Yokohama 
was almost entirely constructed by Europeans and Ameri- 
cans. It is true, nevertheless, that a large native town has 
sprung up outside the foreign settlement, though some dis- 
tance back from the Bund. 

Although Yokohama rates third in population its name 
stands first in the eye of the American people, and it is far 
more widely known over the world than any other Japa- 

£158] 



A BIRD'S EYE VIEW OF YOKOHAMA 

nese city. This notoriety is partly due to the fact that it is 
not only the first port in the empire reached by the traveller 
after crossing the Pacific Ocean, but was the first treaty 
port in Japan settled by foreigners. 

Owing to its recent foundation, 1858, this famous sea- 
port town possesses few sights properly so called, affording 
interest to the globe-trotter, although located but a few 
miles from Kamakura, the ancient capital, and Tokio, the 
seat of the present government. On account of its being 
the gate city of the East, many handsome and commodious 
hotels have been erected in Yokohama which make it an 
agreeable stopping-place for the tourist who desires to visit 
Tokio and the many other interesting points reached 
within an hour by rail or ricksha. 

Among the most famous of these hostelries may be men- 
tioned the Grand, the Oriental Palace, and the Club, all of 
which are located on the Bund and afford excellent accom- 
modations in the way of rooms, food, and baths. Besides 
the three prominent hotels first mentioned, there are a num- 
ber of very good, less expensive ones, among which may be 
mentioned the Pleasanton, Phoenix, and Bluff. 

The Grand has had a famous reputation for many years 
and is still very popular with the travelling public who 
are not compelled to keep tab on their pocketbook. It is 
very pleasantly located on the Bund from which one can 
secure a fine view of the harbor. The busy throng con- 
stantly passing along the Bund, the great ships lying at an- 
chor in the offing and listlessly swinging with the tide, 
together with the hundreds of busy sampans gliding back 
and forth, lend a lively interest to the ever-changing 
panorama. 

Away up beyond the central part of the town tower the 
Bluffs, upon which are located the residences of the for- 
eign population. These beautiful heights command a su- 
perb view of the bay with its irregular shores and pic- 
turesque villages and the sacred mountain of Fujiyama 
forty miles away. To reach the Bluffs one may follow the 

[159] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

well-graded winding road which finally becomes its prin- 
cipal avenue, or the famous one hundred stone steps, which 
lead to its summit. Residence on the Bluffs is delight- 
fully cool during the hottest day in summer and there is 
no necessity of leaving for the mountain resorts. The city 
is especially noted for its handsome homes, villas, and gar- 
dens, fine curio-shops and tailor establishments. 

While the subtle Japanese curio-merchant understands 
so well the art of quadrupling and quintupling the price 
of his wares for the newly arrived tenderfoot in quest of 
bronze, lacquer, carved ivory, or embroidery, he will find 
honest, old, pigtailed John, who has monopolized the tailor 
business, producing suits of clothes almost as faultless as 
the best tailors on Fifth Avenue and for one-fourth of the 
cost. 

Think of a perfectly fitting evening-dress suit of the best 
English worsted lined with exquisite satin for twenty-five 
dollars, a natty travelling suit of cheviot, tweed, or home- 
spun for twelve dollars, and an overcoat of the finest beaver 
for twenty! And yet with the greatest care in workman- 
ship and material this is all they ask. The only trouble is 
that one wants to buy a dozen suits and usually compro- 
mises by taking half as many. 

One really should take a trip to the seaport towns of the 
Orient and Far East to study the business methods and 
celerity of the Chinaman, who is known as the Jew of the 
East. It matters not whether your ship stops for only 
three hours at Singapore, Hong Kong, Shanghai, or Yoko- 
hama, he will take your measure while you wait and hand 
over to you a fairly well-made suit in the marvellous space 
of three hours, yes, and if you so order, a dozen suits within 
the same time. I believe he cuts them out with a buzz-saw 
and puts them together by means of a harnessed typhoon. 
Don't worry, my friend, about Manchuria and the Chink. 
Only wait a few years until they thoroughly awaken from 
their siesta of twenty centuries and watch what happens. 

While on the subject of tailors I should not fail to men- 

[160] 



> 
> 
to 

en 

> 

H 

C/3 
CO 

;^ 

H 

n 

o 
to 

JO 

O 
> 

c 

to 




A BIRD'S EYE VIEW OF YOKOHAMA 

tion the wonderful creations the Yokohama tailors are able 
to produce for the ladies at the same rate of cost. Hand- 
some silk-lined, tailor-made suits for twenty and twenty- 
five dollars and most elegant embroidered cloaks of the 
heaviest pongee for the same price ! My better judgment 
warns me, however, that I should say nothing more of these 
bargains, for I have friends in the Philippines who have 
aspiring wives. 

Among the curiously named streets in the native town 
is one labelled Honcho-Dori, which was corrupted into 
*' Hunky-dory " by our sailors with whom the street was a 
favorite resort, hence the origin of this colloquialism com- 
monly used by many American people to-day. 

** Yokohama, '^ said the Major, "was but an insignificant 
fishing village when Commodore Perry anchored off the 
coast of Yedo Bay that eventful day in July, 1853, and it 
contained a population of but a few hundred poor fisher 
people. Had the little town of Kanagawa, which lies a 
few miles further up the bay and is located on the stately 
Tokaido, the royal highway from Kioto to Yedo, been se- 
lected as the treaty port, Yokohama to-day would have sim- 
ply been a suburb, but the shogun and his court decided 
wisely and well to locate the Foreign Concession where it 
is at present, instead of on the Tokaido where the proces- 
sions of the powerful daimios with their armed retainers 
were constantly passing and daily collision with the hated 
foreigner imminent. It must be borne in mind that for 
two centuries and a half a spirit of bitter animosity had 
prevailed in the hearts of the Japanese people against the 
barbarous Westerners on account of the generations of 
cruel torture and misery which had followed the visitation 
of Francis Xavier and the Jesuit fathers who had planted 
the standard of Catholicism in the country in the seven- 
teenth century. 

**The Buddhist priests and government officials had 
spread broadcast throughout the land the most prejudicial 
and malignant statements regarding the barbarians of the 
11 [ 161 ] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

"West, until the very word of 'Khristian' would * still the 
cry and bate the breath of the most peevish and fitful 
child.' It is little wonder then that on the approach of 
Perry 's fleet the conflagration of national hatred broke out 
afresh and surged throughout the empire like the leaping 
flames of a prairie fire fanned by the strong winds from 
the plains. 

''Mention has already been made of many of the out- 
rages perpetrated against the foreigners shortly after the 
ratification of the treaty, but I believe none illustrate more 
graphically the spirit of animosity than the unprovoked 
and vicious attack made against an Englislnnan named 
Richardson and his party, by the samurai of Lord Saburo 
during the Summer of 1862. 

"Lord Saburo, the uncle and guardian of the young 
daimio of Satsuma, had visited Yedo for the purpose of 
advising with the shogun regarding the unsettled and 
threatening condition of the country and, at the same time, 
to proffer the assistance of his army which was considered 
one of the most powerful in the empire. On his return 
and while travelling along the Tokaido with his train of no- 
bles, samurai, retainers, luggage, and pack-horses, he met, 
near the village of Kawasaki, Mr. C. L. Richardson and 
party, intending to visit the temple there. 

* * It was the etiquette of the country for every one to dis- 
mount and stand aside during the passage of a daimio 's 
train on the Tokaido and to bow to the daimio 's norimono, 
or sedan chair, as he passed. Mr. Richardson was evi- 
dently unaware of this custom and as he was about to pass 
the daimio 's norimono without dismounting, a samurai 
rushed out and with his two-handed sword almost cleft 
him in twain with a single blow. The remaining two gen- 
tlemen and a lady escaped after having received several 
sword cuts and being otherwise roughly handled. 

''When news, of the incident reached Tokio excite- 
ment reached fever heat and the guards around the em- 
bassies were doubled. The English demanded at once an 

[162] 



A BIRD'S EYE VIEW OF YOKOHAMA 

indemnity of $500,000 from the central government and 
$125,000 from the Prince of Satsuma. The shogun apolo- 
gized and willingly paid the $500,000, but was powerless 
to deal with the mighty Prince of Satsiima, who had con- 
trol of an immense army and three war-ships, and besides 
was partly able to dictate the policy of the government. 

** After several months of fruitless effort to secure any 
consideration at the hands of the obdurate prince, the Eng- 
lish Government decided to take the matter in its own 
hands. On the twelfth of the following August, Admiral 
Kufer sailed away from Yokohama with seven British men- 
of-war and shortly afterwards appeared off the port of 
Kagoshima and repeated his demands which were indig- 
nantly refused by the irate prince. Without further delay 
the admiral opened fire on the forts, which lined the shores 
of the city, and the town itself, which is said to have con- 
tained 180,000 people. 

**As a result of the engagement the three armed steamers 
were captured and destroyed, the forts dismantled, and al- 
most the entire town burned. In order to escape further 
reprisal the indemnity was finally paid but the samurai who 
committed the foul murder was never surrendered. Dur- 
ing the engagement the English lost in killed and wounded 
two officers and sixty-three men. The result of the bom- 
bardment convinced Lord Saburo that the Western arma- 
ments of war and equipment were superior to the Japa- 
nese and it was not long after this that the first company of 
Japanese students was sent to England, and orders given 
to purchase cannon and warships from that country. ' ' 



[163] 



CHAPTER XVIII 

TRIP TO KAMAKURA AND THE GREAT DAI- 

BUTSU 

Society of Yokohama — The Britisher in the Orient — 
His Love of Exercise and Clubs — Mrs. Weppner's 
Tribute to the Englishman in the Orient — Visit to 
Kamakura — The Ancient Capital — Reign of Yori- 
TOMO — Murder of Sanetomo — Temple of Kwannon 

— The Great Dai-butsu — The Island of Enoshima 

— The Goddess Benten and the Dragon — Glimpse 
OF Fuji. 

TWO very pleasant days had passed since our arrival 
in Yokohama during which time we had about ex- 
hausted its sights. Apart from the hotels, clubs, and 
shopping district there is little in Yokohama to interest 
the traveller in search of Japanese life and environment. 
The foreign residents have made themselves fairly comfort- 
able with fine homes, good clubs, tennis courts, golf links, 
and race courses. They have Protestant and Roman 
churches, newspapers printed in English and theatres in 
which entertainments are given by English, Australian, 
or European troupes of a moderately good quality. 

Society has not crystallized as yet among the foreign ele- 
ment, and social gatherings in which both sexes meet are 
rare. The foreign contingent remain in Yokohama prin- 
cipally for business reasons and for the accumulation of 
wealth. Those who are ambitious for social distinction 
gratify their desires by joining the gay diplomatic world 
at Tokio, which is only a short twenty miles away. 

[164] 



TRIP TO KAMAKURA 

The Britisher living in the Orient loves his home, his ten- 
nis court, golf links, horse-back ride, cold bath and club — 
and I may add his pipe and his flowing bowl. It matters 
not what part of the Orient or the Far East you visit, you 
will find the stalwart Britisher with his business integrity, 
his hospitality, and his club. He still lives in the mediaeval 
day of the "West and imagines because his father did 
so, he must also dispose of so many cases of Watson, Bu- 
chanan, or Dewar. I have met him in the treaty ports 
of Japan, along the seacoast towns of China, in Hong Kong, 
Manila, Singapore and from Karachi to Chittygong, and 
have always found his setting to be the same. A com- 
fortable club, a well-filled cellar, and a jolly set of good 
fellows. 

Should the stage be removed to Manila, it would be 
^'mwchacho, take the orders, and muy pronto, do you 
mind, " or ' ' I say, old chappie, let 's have another on hemp 
which has gone up several points since yesterday and an- 
other on copra, which is out of sight to-day." You may 
enter every seaport town in the East, or visit any inland 
city of commercial importance throughout India and there 
in his club, after the labors of the day are over, you will 
find your English cousin, and it 's *'boy, here," and it 's 
*'boy, there," and it 's ''boy, boy," everywhere. 

I scarcely think it fair that Mrs. Margaretha Weppner 
should say, in the North Star and Southern Cross: "It is 
well understood that the life of the European in Japan is, 
after all, a wretched one. The senses and the animal ap- 
petites are abundantly provided for, but the mind and the 
soul are left totally destitute. There are clubs, it is true, 
but at the time of my stay in Yokohama, they were mere 
gastronomical resorts. The pure-minded men of the is- 
land live at home where they can enjoy just as much com- 
fort as in the clubs and are rarely seen in them except when 
dramatic companies, comedians, whistlers, or such people 
visit the land. 

"I had occasion to remark during my stay in Yokohama 

[165] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

that the perennial monotony of the place and the sensual 
life led there have reduced many of them to a state bor- 
dering on imbecility. It was difficult to believe that the 
drivelling trash which they talked could have its origin 
in the head at all. The eyes of such men are dull and they 
have a kind of idiotic stare. They see and hear only what 
attracts the stomach and senses. It is useless moralizing 
on the subject, but I cannot refrain from adding that the 
impression produced upon a healthy mind by this porten- 
tous abasement is very disheartening." 

It was after the dinner hour, and we were enjoying our 
cigars in the lobby of the hotel while listening to strains 
of most excellent music played by a Portuguese string 
band. And let me say that the lobby of the Grand is al- 
ways interesting, for here are constantly to be found dis- 
tinguished and interesting people from all parts of the 
world. 

* * We have expended our full limit of time on Yokohama, 
Mr. Khodes, ' ' said the Judge, * * and must start north if we 
intend to carry out our schedule on time." 

* ' Before leaving, however, we should visit Kamakura, the 
ancient capital of the shogunate," remarked the Major, 
* * which lies but an hour by rail from here. ' ' 

**By no means should we fail to go there," added the 
Judge, ''for it is not only the most charming outing from 
here, but the most interesting from a historical point of 
view. Fortunately the weather is clear, and should we 
have a bright day to-morrow, we may be fortunate enough 
to get a glimpse of sacred Fujiyama." 

We were lucky indeed on the day of our visit to Kama- 
kura and Enoshima, for on rising the following morning 
the sun was shining as brightly as the Polar Star and the 
sky unflecked by a single cloud. On emerging from the 
train at Kamakura we found ourselves in a low valley of 
bamboo, pine, and majestic cypress trees and saw on the 
site of that once famous and populous city small hamlets 

[166] 



TRIP TO KAMAKURA 

and straggling clusters of humble cottages, where once 
stood the magnificent palaces of powerful nobles and gor- 
geous temples of Buddhist priests. 

With closed eyes one can mentally revert to the daily 
scenes of that once gay metropolis, the clanking arms of 
the mailed and helmeted samurai returning from a victori- 
ous campaign against the savage Ainos of the North, the 
proud and haughty daimio receiving the thundered ap- 
plause from the populace as he passes by in norimono 
surrounded by his bodyguard, and from across the distant 
hills the tinkling of a thousand temple bells from a hundred 
wooded slopes and shaded dells, warning the people of the 
hour of prayer. 

''Kamakura,'* said the Major, '* which had been nothing 
more than a simple fishing village up to 1192, was selected 
in that year by the great Shogun Yoritomo for his capital, 
and became the metropolis of Japan and headquarters of 
the actual government. It is true at this time Kioto was 
the city of the Imperial residence and the capital of the 
sacred Mikado, but it will be remembered that his was but 
the shadow of a government and his prerogative confined 
to the appointment of court officials, Buddhist prelates, and 
the regulation of court etiquette. The real authority was 
vested in the hands of the mighty shogun who made laws 
for the country, imposed taxes, appointed governors and 
even deposed and appointed Mikados when he found it to 
his interest to do so. The brilliant capital established here 
by Yoritomo, the magnificent palaces, gilded temples, and 
great Dai-butsu, dimmed by reflected light the glory of the 
sacred capital at Kioto and started a wave of prosperity 
and growth which continued until its barricades contained 
a million souls. 

*' After the death of that great warrior and statesman 
Yoritomo, in 1198, in consequence of a fall from his horse, 
the power of the shogunate was transferred to the powerful 
family of Hojos who, as regents, controlled the government 

[167] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

until 1333, in which year they were defeated by the cele- 
brated general Nitta in a great battle fought at Kamakura, 
during which the city was almost destroyed by fire. 

''Kamakura was repeatedly sacked, destroyed, and re- 
built until 1603, when Yedo was selected as his capital by 
that famous warrior and shogun, leyasu, the founder of 
the Tokugawa line. From this time on Kamakura began 
to dwindle away and the brilliant capital of four centuries 
gradually returned a few generations later to the unim- 
portant fishing village from which it had originally 
emerged. Yet its site remains wrapt in the grandeur of its 
former greatness. Occupying a commanding position on 
a hill reached by an avenue of pines leading all the way 
from the sea, stands the Temple of Hachiman which was 
built in the twelfth century. It is not only a shrine but a 
museum as well, for in the adjoining rooms may be seen 
many warlike relics of mediaeval days, among which are 
the banner borne by leyasu at the battle of Sekigahara, 
his helmet, armor, and sword. 

''On the side of the entrance stands the celebrated icho 
tree which is twenty feet in diameter and said to be over 
a thousand years old. If this old tree could speak, what 
a tragedy it could unfold in the recital of the murder of 
the young Shogun Sanetomo who was assassinated by his 
own nephew, the high priest, as he descended the stone 
steps in front of the temple! Sanetomo was the son of 
Yoritomo and had a foreboding that he was to be killed. 
On the morning that the deed was committed he plucked a 
hair from his head and gave it to the attendant, saying, 
*Keep this in memory of me.' 

"On an eminence commanding a beautiful view of the 
seashore stands the Temple of Kwannon, the great Goddess 
of Mercy. Her statue is made of brown lacquer, stands 
over thirty feet high, and is closed in from the public gaze 
by a pair of folding doors. Owing to the poor method of 
illumination, which at present is accomplished by means 
of a few candles, it is difficult to secure a good view of 

[168] 



TRIP TO KAMAKURA 

the goddess's face. Some day, perhaps, when the enterprise 
of the West takes full possession of the East, electricity- 
will be utilized to show off the face of this popular 
divinity. 

* ' The solitary relic of grandeur of this once famous cap- 
ital, the colossal figure of the great Dai-butsu, which 
stands alone among the works of art of the Japanese people, 
sits upon his throne in a sequestered garden sheltered by 
wooded hills, great pines, and noble cryptomerias. This 
magnificent statue of bronze was cast in 1252 by Ono 
Garoeman upon the initiative of Yoritomo, who conceived 
the idea of locating a colossal figure of Buddha at his own 
capital after seeing the one at Nara. 

*'The Dai-butsu was originally sheltered under a tem- 
ple roof fifty yards square supported by eighty-three 
massive w^ooden pillars. The building was twice destroyed 
by fire and tidal wave, the last time in 1494, since which 
period it has never been rebuilt. So now, exposed to the 
fierce storms of winter and heavy rains of summer, the 
great Buddha, in defiance of the elements, sits upon a 
throne of stone in all its grandeur, unhampered and sur- 
rounded by nought save the blue canopy of heaven above 
and the majestic cryptomerias in the rear which form its 
noble background. No other statue in all Japan so truly 
symbolizes the central idea of Buddhism, the spiritual 
peace which comes of perpetual knowledge and the subju- 
gation of the passions." 

The following descriptive poem on Kamakura, written 
by Basho, gives an excellent poetic idea of that once famous 
capital : 

City of dream-land, ruined and sad. 
Once home of a people joyous and glad. 
All that is left, "a tale that is told," 
Temples dismantled and monuments cold. 

Ashes to ashes, dust unto dust, 
Glory departed, swords turned to rust. 
[169] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

Weeds, all that is left of hearts brave and gay, 
Who erst to the battle went marching away. 

Citadel perished, towns fallen away 
Fortress and temple doomed to decay, 
Courtier and warrior in panoply bright, 
Passed like a shadowy dream of the night. 

Oh, Buddha Eternal ! Thus come we and go, 
Fleeting is matter, "Sho-gy-o mu-jo." * 
Such were thy words, what waxeth must wane. 
After calm there is storm, after sunshine the rain. 
Naught is a permanence, glory but show 
That leads to destruction, "Zesh-o mep-po." f 

The first glimpse one gets of the great Dai-butsu is some- 
what disappointing and one should really return several 
times to appreciate the divinity and majesty of the figure. 
Unfortunately the little pine-clad garden and rough back- 
ground of hills do not set off to advantage the solemnity 
and mystic grandeur of this great work of mediaeval art. 
Were it located on some magnificent plain, ocean strand, 
or mountain ledge, the effect would be altogether different. 

Insensible to the passage of time during our visit to the 
great Buddha, the hour for return had arrived, especially 
as we were to visit the famous peninsula of Enoshima, 
which is located down the coast near the mouth of the 
Sakaigawa River. To reach this celebrated spot from Kam- 
akura the traveller should take the electric train to the vil- 
lage of Katase skirting the shore and passing the beach 
where the Hojos in 1265 beheaded the ambassadors of Kub- 
lai Khan, sent to demand the submission of Japan to the 
great Tartar Conqueror. 

On arrival at the station the trip across the sand-dune 
to the mystic island consumes but a few minutes and leads 
the visitor through a street of restaurants, shops, and curio- 

* Means, "All phenomena are impermanent." 

f "They are subject to the law of origination and perishing." 

[170] 



TRIP TO KAMAKURA 

booths in which can be secured an assortment of corals, 
shells, and marine curiosities. 

The Island of Enoshima has been noted in the legend of 
Japan for ages as the home of the child-devouring dragon. 
According to the mythological account the Goddess Benten 
appeared about the sixth century and married the dragon, 
which put an end to his ravages. The simple natives to 
this day show the visitor the cave at the foot of its pre- 
cipitous sides, in which the fearful monster lived. 

The island has become a popular resort for the natives 
of Tokio and Yokohama, and contains a number of excel- 
lent native inns which are located along its sides and sum- 
mit. The view of Fujiyama and the sea obtained from the 
crest of the island on a clear day would of itself alone well 
repay for the journey there. 

The shadows were beginning to lengthen as we descended 
the zigzag avenue of the famous Dragon Island, and cross- 
ing the sand-dune a few minutes later, we caught the train 
to Fuji war a and returned to Yokohama via the Tokaida 
railway. 



[171] 



CHAPTER XIX 

DOWN THE COAST OF SAGAMI TO YOKOSUKA 

Down the Coast op Sagami — Treaty Point — Sugita 
AND THE Plum Blossoms — The Plains of Heaven — 
The View across Yedo Bay — Kanazawa the True 
and Beautiful — Dyzuki Summer Palace of the 
Crown Prince — Yokosuka, the Dockyard of Japan 
— The Tomb of "Will Adams — The Dinner at Kai- 
Yo-KEN — The Polyglot Army Engineers — Return 
to Yokohama. 

ALTHOUGH the distance from Yokohama to Tokio 
was but a short fifty minutes by rail and the attrac- 
tions of the Mikado 's metropolis very tempting to the tour- 
ist, we decided to postpone our visit there until we had 
made an excursion down the east coast of the peninsula of 
Sagami to the great dock-yard town of Yokosuka, and pos- 
sibly as far south as Misaki which is located on the toe 
of the peninsula and contains the Marine Biological 
Laboratory. 

The favorite route to Yokosuka is by means of ricksha, 
though the journey may be more expeditiously made by 
taking the Ofuna Branch Railway which terminates at the 
dock-yard town. An outing by ricksha is far preferable to 
rail, not only on account of the superior beauty of the ma- 
rine and pastoral scenery en route, but because of the halts 
which the traveller is enabled to make in the interesting 
places passed. 

A short distance below Yokohama we reach Treaty Point 
where Commodore Perry convinced the shogun in July, 

[172] 



SAGAMI TO YOKOSUKA 

1854, that the open door would be of great benefit to 
the sealed empire of Japan and of mutual interest to the 
United States. From this point the road skirts along the 
shore of Mississippi Bay, where the fleet lay anchored dur- 
ing the New Era of the Orient, and follows along to the lit- 
tle coast village of Sugita, famous for its plum blossoms in. 
season and Japanese inns. 

Farther along we pass Tomioka, which lies about two 
miles and a half below, and is noted for its excellent sea- 
bathing. The road now inclines upward along indented 
shores, wooded slopes, and bold cliffs until we reach No- 
kendo on the crest of the hill, where a scene of such rare 
beauty bursts upon the vision that the natives, centuries 
ago, called it the Plains of Heaven. Near here can be seen 
the noted pine tree, Fude-sute-matsu, which marks the spot 
where the Japanese artist in olden times in despair flung 
away his brush and easel and killed himself because he was 
unable to reproduce the glories of the scene. The magnifi- 
cent view which greets the eye from the summit beggars 
description and evokes a feeling of deep sympathy for the 
unfortunate artist who destroyed himself because he was 
unable to transfer to canvas the spirit of the enchanting 
picture. The prospect was superb and of itself alone well 
worth the journey from Yokohama. 

Across golden valleys of waving rice lie the blue waters 
of Yedo's famous bay, while miles beyond can be seen the 
indented shores, sand plains, and purple, serrated hills 
of the peninsula of Boshu. Quietly nestling within the 
land-locked inlet far below, which is bounded by the ma- 
jestic promontory of Kwannon-Saki, lies a verdant group 
of isles among which are two named after Perry and Web- 
ster, heroes who until the end of time will be associated 
with the rise of this modern Roman Empire of the East. 

Descending the hill to the inlet of Matsura we reach the 
village of Kanazawa which attracts many visitors during 
the season to admire the wonderful peony garden, some of 
the plants of which are said to be more than three hundred 

[173] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

years old. While Kanazawa lies but twelve miles distant 
from Yokohama as the crow flies, it is rarely visited by the 
foreign tourist. The natural beauty of its environment 
and quiet pleasure of village life, should make it popular 
with the foreign travelling public were its beauties only 
known. Nature has decorated modest Kanazawa with a 
lavish hand and this modest little village will ever remain 
a favorite with the traveller in quest of the true and the 
beautiful. 

Full many a gem of purest ray serene, 
The dark, unf athomed eaves of ocean bear, 

Full many a flower is bom to blush unseen, 
And waste its sweetness on the desert air. 

From Kanazawa we leave the eastern shore of the penin- 
sula and over hill and dale continue the journey to Dyzuki, 
which lies between the Of una railway and the shore of 
Sagami Bay. This flourishing village is not only a popu- 
lar seaside resort, but the summer residence of the Crown 
Prince, Japanese noblemen, and many wealthy foreign res- 
idents. At this point we dismiss our rickshas and continue 
the journey to Yokosuka by rail, a distance of six miles far- 
ther down the eastern coast. 

The thriving town of Yokosuka is the site of the oldest 
and largest government dockyard in the empire and has 
produced many of Japan's most famous battleships and 
cruisers. The yards are safely located within a land-locked 
bay and are strongly fortified against sea attack. It is 
the oldest of the five national dockyards and contains three 
dry docks, one of which is 502 feet long, 94 feet wide, and 
28 feet deep, large enough to accommodate the largest bat- 
tleship belonging to the navy. 

In order to visit the yard strangers are required to se- 
cure permits from the local naval authorities, but it is rare 
even then for the visitor to secure permission to inspect a 
vessel under construction on the ways. Since the date of 
its location, which was some time during the early sixties, 

[174] 



SAGAMI TO YOKOSUKA 

the village has grown to be a place of considerable im- 
portance and covers the surrounding hills, which have 
been cleared of their woods to accommodate the increased 
growth. A half mile below the town lies the Torpedo Sta- 
tion of Naga-ura, which is connected to Yokosuka by an ar- 
tificial waterway. 

The remaining national dockyards are located at Kure, 
in the Inland Sea, Sasebo, on the Island of Kyushu, Mai- 
zuru, in the Province of Tango on the Sea of Japan, and 
Muroran, in Yezo. On account of its central location and 
security against foreign invasion, Kure is the coming dock- 
yard of the empire and will be provided with dry 
docks large enough to accommodate the most formidable 
dreadnaughts. 

Four miles farther down the coast lies the village of 
Uraga, built on both sides of a narrow harbor and afford- 
ing a most beautiful view of the harbor and bay from the 
hills above. Uraga is chiefly noted for being the port in 
which Commodore Perry first landed, when he presented 
the credentials from President Fillmore on July 8, 1853. 
The spot of landing was marked by a stone monument in 
1901. 

The stranger who goes to Yokosuka should by no means 
neglect a visit to the tomb of poor Will Adams, the English 
pilot, who lies buried on a high hill overlooking the bay not 
far from the railroad station. In the hope of amassing a 
fortune in trade among the spice islands of the East, fabu- 
lous stories of which had drifted back to Europe through 
Portuguese and Spanish sailors, he bade farewell to wife, 
loved ones at home, and the shores of fair Albion in 1558, 
and after battling for two years over unknown seas, was 
driven to the unfriendly shores of Kyushu. 

Japan was sealed to the world at this time and the for- 
eigner who had the temerity to venture upon her forbidden 
shores, in accordance with laws of the country, was sub- 
jected to horrible persecution followed by cruel death. 
Adams was sent as a captive to Yedo, before the great Sho- 

[175] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

gun leyasu who had but recently usurped the throne and 
established his capital there. Fortunately for Will Adams, 
he understood the art of shipbuilding and, besides, was an 
able and honest man. The wise shogun realized the value 
of the Englishman's services and instead of carrying out 
the sentence of death, remitted it to labor in his service 
and life imprisonment in the country. 

Adams was charged with shipbuilding and in the course 
of his career produced a number of large vessels, some of 
which were utilized by the shogun as warships, or in trade 
with the neighboring countries. lie also became very use- 
ful to the government as diplomatic agent in Yedo where 
his services were needed during the yearly visits of the 
Dutch Embassy from Nagasaki, which came at the bidding 
of the shogun to make report and bring the annual gifts. 
On account of his valiant services and upright character, 
Adams succeeded in winning the friendship and admira- 
tion of the shogun and was granted an estate containing 
a hundred vassals with a patent of nobility. He was also 
given a Japanese wife, whom he unwillingly accepted, al- 
though he realized that he would never be permitted to re- 
turn to England, or see his loved ones at home again. 

After a strenuous service of over twenty years, in 1620, 
poor "Will Adams died, and lies buried with his Japanese 
wife on a high hill formerly belonging to his own estate, 
overlooking the dockyard of Yokosuka, where he spent the 
remainder of his busy life, trying to forget his sad exile 
in a foreign land and perpetual banishment from home and 
loved ones. The many letters he left are published in the 
^'Memorials of Japan,'' and are well worth reading, as 
they contain a description of the country at the time it 
was swarming with Catholic friars and before the energy 
of the people had been palsied by the seclusion of two and 
a half centuries. 

*'Come, gentlemen," said the Major, after reaching the 
town again, *'we will now visit the Kaiyoken, the little 
Japanese restaurant at the foot of the wharf, where I feel 

[176] 




Pi 
X 

H 
Pi 

< 

H 
Pi 

O 

PH 

< 

in 
6 

W. 
C 

fa 
o 

;? 
o 

HH 

o 

Cu 



SAGAMI TO YOKOSUKA 

sure we will be able to obtain a very fair native 
dinner. ' ' 

The invitation to dine was hailed with delight, both by 
the Judge and myself, since we had left Yokohama shortly 
after sunrise and were as hungry as young coyotes. As we 
were nearing the restaurant the host and entire house- 
hold, who no doubt saw us approaching, came out to greet 
us and we were fairly overcome with welcoming salutations 
and profound bows, until ushered into the little salle-d 
manger and comfortably seated a la Japonaise, on spotless 
rush mats, by the side of the daintiest little lacquered 
tables imaginable, not more than six inches high. Save an 
exquisite vase filled with trailing wistaria resting on a deli- 
cate stand, a hand-painted kakemono of white chrysanthe- 
mums hanging on the opposite wall, and the mats and 
tables previously mentioned, the room was empty. 

Furniture in the Japanese household, according to the 
European idea is conspicuous for its absence. The bed 
consists of a large quilted rug, called a futon, which is hid- 
den from sight during the day in a cupboard or clothes- 
press, while carpets, curtains, chairs, tables, and other arti- 
cles of furniture used by Americans and Europeans, only 
exist in the homes of a few of the nobles or diplomats, and 
then purely out of deference to the Western barbarians, 
who enter these homes as guests. Likewise the stove or fire- 
place finds no place in the home of the native, even among 
the well-to-do classes. The hihachi, which is frequently 
ornate and made of bronze or brass, with a small shovel of 
charcoal, provides heat for the family, even in Tokio where 
the climate in winter equals, as a rule, that of New York, 
in rigor. One thing, however, exists in abundance in ev- 
ery household, whether it be the home of the noble or peas- 
ant, of the rich or the poor, of the country boor or city 
patrician, and that is exemplary and spotless cleanliness. 

Before entering the door of the little restaurant we were 
politely invited to sit upon the stoop and have our shoes 
replaced by sandals, which service was performed by the 
12 [ 177 ] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

smiling little nesans, while the host occupied the interval 
in making obsequious genuflexions and uttering abject apol- 
ogies for disturbing our honorable feet. vain-glori- 
ous sons and daughters of the great Western republic, 
with all of your boasted civilization, wealth, and blandish- 
ments, hasten to Dai-Nippon and drink from this fount of 
good-breeding, where urbanity and innate refinement are 
the heritance of every one and universal politeness the con- 
trolling national asset! 

The courtesies of the moment were over and, a Bios gra- 
ciaSy our host and staff appeared on their errand of mercy, 
for, streaming in from behind sliding doors, came trooping 
processions of lovely little nesans, waddling along in knock- 
kneed fashion, like so many gayly decorated mandarin 
ducks, each one bearing aloft bowls of steaming sake and 
trays of succulent food. There have been occasions in my 
life when my very soul went forth in profound sympathy 
to the author of that inspiring lyric, the * * Clink of the Ice 
in the Pitcher,'' for who could have touched the soul of 
man so deeply as one who had felt the pangs of a burning 
thirst ! 

God bless that ancient daimio, who ages ago conjured 
into life the divine and satisfying beverage sake! Come, 
hasten, fair daughter of Nippon, with that saving cup ere 
W' e die ! Ah ! one, two, three of those flowing bowls and the 
miracle is wrought. Languor, fatigue, and weariness have 
folded their tents and silently stolen away, while the crim- 
son current of life, with renewed vigor, once more flows 
through flagging artery and sluggish vein. 

Looking back through the dim vista of many months, 
I can not recall the entire detail of that delicious menu. 
I remember, however, there were bowls of savory soup 
made from seaweed, portions of boiled fish as white as the 
crest of Fuji in midwinter, slices of vinegared fish with 
youthful Irish potatoes, curries of rice garnished with a 
half dozen Oriental condiments, delicately fried egg-plant, 
salads of prawn, rings of the squid which is a delicacy 

[178] 



SAGAMI TO YOKOSUKA 

in Oriental waters, bowls of pearly rice, transparent jellies, 
preserved ginger, fragrant tea from the fields around Kioto 
and an appetite fit for the gods. The dinner was over, 
our hunger gone, as we sat listening to the weird songs of 
geisha girls, which were accompanied by the thrumming 
of the samisen. 

Time can never efface from memory the recollections 
of that delightful feast at Yokosuka, the charming polite- 
ness of our host, the little giggling nesans, dressed in dainty 
kimono and brilliant ohi, and the entertainment furnished 
by the geishas. We made our escape amidst a shower of 
farewell salutations, bows, and well wishes, which were no 
doubt stimulated, more or less, by the liberal donation the 
Major had left in the palm of the host in the way of tea 
money or chadai, as the tip is called in Japan. I can still 
see the winsome face of petite Violet, as she lisped in broken 
English, *'Take me home as itty wife.'* Stay where you 
are, little girl, and some day you will raise gallant warriors 
to fight the future battles of Dai-Nippon, which are as in- 
evitable as the setting of the waning sun. 

On entering the station at Dyzuki on our return, our 
coach was filled with thirty or more engineer officers, who 
were returning from a field manoeuvre and going back to 
Tokio. They were an intelligent-looking body of young 
officers, uniformed in service-dress, with field glass, officers ' 
case and the never-failing insignia of authority, the sabre. 
It matters not where you meet the Japanese army officer 
or soldier, you will find him, like his German prototype, 
from whom he has imbibed the ideas of military life, with 
side-arms and buttoned up de rigueur. And more than 
that you will very early recognize that grand seigneur 
manner, which leaves the impression that every one must 
step aside for the descendants of the sons of gods. 

As they lined themselves along both sides of the car I 
saw a brilliant opportunity for securing interesting facts 
from the fountain head, from living encyclopaedias in the 
form of these perambulating military oracles of the day. 

[179] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

I am free to confess that I was deeply interested in the 
Japanese, collectively and individually, and was beginning 
to appreciate the causes of the empire's great successes in 
the prosecution of war and upbuilding of a nation. 

*'You speak English, do you not, Captain?" I boldly 
ventured addressing my nearest neighbor. 

With a smile and a bow he silently replied by pointing 
to an officer down the car. 

Parhleu! A Japanese officer and not to speak English ! 
I now renewed my question to the officer indicated down 
the line, who smiled in return and referred to another of- 
ficer who spoke French. 

Unfortunately my education in the universal court lan- 
guage of the world had been sadly neglected in my youth, 
but the Major came to my relief, and addressing the French 
scholar said, '^Vous parlez Frangais, Mo7isieur, n'est-ce 
pasf' 

The Major's question was greeted by a round of giggles 
from the entire company. No offence was expressed by 
this roar of hilarity, for the Japanese, like amused and 
good-natured children, laugh on all occasions. They smile 
when you pass them on the street, become rollicksome when 
you enter their stores, giggle when you offer them one- 
tenth the price demanded for their wares, and, I verily 
believe, would thank the judge and titter if sentenced to 
death. 

The Major was not to be defeated by the smiling little 
band and repeated his question. Away down from the cor- 
ner of the car came the suggestion that some one spoke 
German. 

The challenge was accepted by the Judge, who asked, 
*' Gieht es jemand Jiier, der Deutsch spricht?" 

The guilty officer remained silent, while the usual smile 
went round. The situation was now becoming embar- 
rassing, and our sign language was exhausted. In vain 
had the Judge and the Major expended their best English, 
French, German, and Spanish, together with a few choice 

[180] 



SAGAMI TO YOKOSUKA 

sentences from Chinook, Apache, Sioux, and dog-Latin. 
One of the officers finally suggested Esperanto. 

''Oh, yes," replied the Major, ''we all speak Esperanto 
in America, even the children on the streets." That was 
too much for our cheerful companions who were still smil- 
ing and giggling as we reached Yokohama and said 
*'Ohio-a, ohio-a/' which means farewell. 



[181] 



CHAPTER XX 

FROM YOKOHAMA TO TOKIO BY RICKSHA 

From Yokohama to Tokio by Ricksha — The Old 
ToKAiDO Highway — The Temple of Kawasaki — The 
Tokio Race Club — The Manufacturing Section of 
Tokio — Murray's Guide Book — The Official Guides 
of Japan — The American Embassy — Shiba Park 
and the Temple of Zojoji — The IMausolea of the 
Shoguns — Temple of Benten — The Shrine of Tema 
— The Maple Club and Saint Andrew's Church. 

ON entering the lobby of the hotel the following morn- 
ing, I found the Judge and the Major arranging for a 
visit to Tokio, which lies only twenty miles up the bay. 

**We have decided to visit the national capital to-day, 
Mr. Rhodes," said the Major, *'and if the plan be agreeable 
to you, we will leave immediately after an early break- 
fast." 

** Nothing would suit me better," I replied, *' since I am 
very anxious to see the wonderful metropolis, which has 
wrought such a material change in Japan during the past 
half century." 

** There are three ways of reaching Tokio," continued the 
Judge, *'by railway, electric tram, or ricksha, but as we 
have arranged for a guide to meet us at 9 :30 this morning 
in the depot over there we will have to take the train." 

The railroad system of Japan, which has been modelled 
after ours, is under government control. The section be- 
tween Yokohama and Tokio has the honor of being the 
first railroad built in the empire and was laid in 1872. The 

[182] 



YOKOHAMA TO TOKIO 

trip by tram to the capital takes an hour and the passenger 
has to make two changes en route, one at Kanagawa and 
the other at Shinagawa, while the train goes direct and re- 
quires but half the time. 

Should the tourist have abundance of time he can put 
in an entertaining and charming forenoon by going over 
to Tokio by ricksha. This will enable him to travel over 
the old Tokaido Highway, which formerly connected the 
sacred throne of the Mikado at Kioto with the capital of 
the powerful Tolmgawa shoguns at old Yedo. The road 
is bordered by fantastic pine trees whose branches reach 
out in the most weird manner, while the scenery along the 
shores of the bay is very entertaining. The Tokaido also 
passes through a number of characteristic Japanese ham- 
lets and villages, among which may be mentioned Kan- 
agawa, Kawasaki, Kamata, and Shinagawa, all of which 
possess considerable historical interest. As before men- 
tioned it was on the great Tokaido Highway, not far 
from Kanagawa, that a member of Lord Saburo's train 
killed Mr. Eichardson, which incident led to the bombard- 
ment of Kiroshima, the capital of Satsuma in 1862. Ka- 
wasaki is interesting from the fact that it contains a won- 
derful miracle-working temple dedicated to the Buddhist 
saint Kobo Daishi. The legend states that the site of the 
temple became sanctified through an image carved by the 
saint himself, which had floated across the Yellow Sea from 
China and was caught in the net of a poor fisherman, living 
near by on the coast. 

Like unto a host of holy healing images, worshipped by 
the faithful of the Roman Church, the Buddhist image at 
Kawasaki has its credited list of unquestionable cures and 
genuine resurrections. The simple-minded patrons of the 
temple have beautified the grounds and trained the trees 
in the shape of junks. 

Special trains are run to Kawasaki on the twenty-first of 
each month for the benefit of the people living along the 
line and in the adjoining cities. The garden surrounding 

[183] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

the temple is beautifully ornamented with flowering trees, 
parterres of flowers, artistic monuments, and a lake con- 
taining live storks. The Japanese inns, nestling among 
gardens of plum-trees in the vicinity, contain attractive 
tea-houses and afford many pleasant hours to the numer- 
ous guests seeking an outing from the crowded districts 
of Tokio and Yokohama, especially during the season of 
the cherry and plum blossom. 

Beyond Kawasaki one crosses the Tamagawa R-iver, which 
rises high up in the mountain gorges far away and passes 
through a valley of picturesque beauty. Near by on the 
left is located the Tokio Race Club where the native swells 
and sports, in silk hat and frock coat, affect an imitation 
of the Derby in merry England. Before reaching the cap- 
ital we pass through Shinagawa, opposite which in the bay 
may be seen a number of obsolete forts built by the slio- 
gun to protect the capital against the Western barbarian a 
half century ago. They were built of masonry and armed 
with the old-fashioned smooth-bores of black powder days. 
Now, like lonely sentinels, dismantled in the bay they stand, 
serving no purpose save as roosting places for the myriad 
shrieking sea-fowl which hover over the harbor. 

The railroad now approaches the manufacturing portion 
of the city, made evident by the many tall smoke-stacks of 
iron tubing, masonry not being safe on account of the fre- 
quent earthquakes, and shortly afterwards terminates at 
the Shimabashi station which is not far distant from the 
Imperial, the principal hotel of the city. 

On arrival at the station we found our guide awaiting 
us, a middle-aged Japanese of education and refinement, 
and the president of his guild. To those who may have the 
pleasure of visiting the land of the Rising Sun, I would 
strongly advise the employment of a guide who can act as 
interpreter as well. In the large cities, and especially in 
Tokio, which covers an enormous area and contains a pop- 
ulation of 2,000,000 people, the stranger will find a guide 
essential. Moreover, the parks, temples, public buildings, 

[184] 



YOKOHAMA TO TOKIO 

and other places worthy of a visit lie scattered over a net- 
work of streets whose names are more perplexing than a 
complicated Chinese puzzle. 

The traveller will usually find that the pleasure derived 
from a trip to the ancient capitals of Kioto, Nara, and 
Tokio depends more or less upon the historical associations 
connected Avith the places visited. The Japanese as a na- 
tion omitted very few of the good things found in the Pan- 
dora Box of the Western world after Perry's visit and did 
not fail to include an examination of their official guides, 
before granting them a license to ply their vocation. They 
are required to have a good general education, to be pro- 
ficient in the history of their country, and able to speak 
one or more modern languages of Europe, besides having 
a local knowledge of cities and places. 

Among the articles which should be included in the tour- 
ist's kit, when wandering through the Mikado's realm, is 
a copy of Murray's Hand-Book. This valuable work is 
indispensable, although the traveller is accompanied by 
a guide. 

"Our first official act," said the Judge, "and that of ev- 
ery American who visits Tokio, should be a call at the Le- 
gation, which will incidentally give us a glimpse of Old 
Glory, the most beautiful sight in the world to an American 
who finds himself far away from home." 

With the assistance of our guide, whom I shall designate 
the Professor, we sallied forth behind four sprightly rick- 
shamen, and were soon rolling towards the hills of Okasaka 
where the embassy was located. The Ambassador had but 
recently returned from a visit to the United States, via 
the Siberian Railroad and informed us that he had experi- 
enced a very wearisome trip. Mr. O'Brien is a tall and 
dignified gentleman, affable and urbane, and with an at- 
tractive face. In leaving the legation after spending a 
delightful half hour, we were pleasantly impressed with 
the fact that the right man was in the right place and that 
the entente cordial between the two nations would remain 

[185] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

intact as long as our distinguished countryman was at 
the hehn. 

**Mr. Murray informs us, Professor," said the Major, 
* ' that Shiba Park is not far distant from here, so with your 
kindly assistance we will proceed there by the most direct 
route. ' ' 

**And from there," asked the guide, ** where do you 
wish to go ? " 

**You have the schedule that we prepared this morning. 
Judge, have you not?" asked the Major. **Ah, here it is, 
a little itinerary, which in all probability will keep us busy 
during the remainder of the day." 

^'Mon Dieu!'^ replied the Professor, '*the programme 
you gentlemen have laid out would require a week. ' ' 

**Let me see," said the Major, **we have the parks, tem- 
ples, and mausolea of the shoguns, the palace grounds. 
Patriots' Shrine, national museums, Joys and Follies of 
Asakusa, Yoshiwara the ward of vice, the shopping district, 
and the tombs of the Forty-seven Ronin in Spring Hill 
Cemetery, and anything else you may be pleased to show us, 
honored Professor." 

**You are aware, gentlemen," said the guide, 'Hhat the 
places mentioned are widely separated, and in order to see 
them in a day, only a casual visit can be paid." 

**You must understand, Professor," said the Major, 
*'that the Judge and I have had the pleasure of visiting 
Tokio before and as Mr. Rhodes is the only one to whom it 
will be necessary to point out the places of interest, but 
one-third of the time will be required. Besides we are 
Americans with whom time, space, or distance count for 
naught. ' ' 

Without further delay, and with, no doubt, a hazy idea 
of the Major's philosophy regarding the reduction of time, 
we reached the Shiba Park, which was less than twenty 
minutes distant by ricksha. 

''Shiba Park," said the Professor, ''until 1877 formed 
the grounds of the great Buddhist Temple, Zojoji, the head- 

[186] 



YOKOHAMA TO TOKIO 

quarters of the Jodo Sect, which was adopted by leyasu 
and taken under his protection in 1600. This beautiful 
temple was originally founded in 1393 and transferred to 
its present site in 1596, after the capital was removed from 
Kamakura to Yedo. Unfortunately the change of faith 
from Buddhism to Shintoism, which the temple underwent 
in 1873, led to friction between the sects in consequence of 
which the main portion of the magnificent edifice was de- 
stroyed in 1874. The building has since been restored 
though in a less imposing manner. Fortunately the large 
red gate and porch of the original temple remain. 

'*The change of public religious faith from Buddhism 
to Shintoism in Japan, during the sixteenth and seven- 
teenth centuries, has its prototype in Europe during the 
Reformation when a large section of the continent changed 
from Romanism to Protestantism for political reasons. 
The coincidence is carried still further by the fact that 
Buddhist temples were transferred to the Shintoists in Ja- 
pan as the Roman churches to the Protestants in Europe. 
The Americans or Europeans who visit Japan and expect 
to find magnificent basilicas and cathedrals with towering 
spires, will be keenly disappointed, for the temples through- 
out the empire are conglomerate and consist of many sepa- 
rate one-story buildings scattered over the temple grounds. 

''While Shiba is a much smaller park than the celebrated 
Ueno, it is considered much more beautiful and is re- 
garded as an ecclesiastical paradise. In its pantheon of 
departed great ones lie six of the Tokugawa shoguns, none 
of whom left an enduring fame. Hidetada, distinguished 
on account of being the son of leyasu, the founder of the 
line, lies buried here. In Ueno Park is the mausoleum 
for six of the same dynasty, w^hile Nik-ko in all its grandeur 
and sublimity was reserved for leyasu himself and his 
grandson lemitsu, the real founders of the government 
which endured in peace and prosperity for two centuries 
and a half after its establishment. 

* ' Shiba is practically divided into three subdivisions, the 

[187] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

first containing the mortuary temples and tombs of the 
seventh and ninth shoguns which we will enter through 
the Niteu-mon gate. The temples of these monarchs 
are celebrated for their rich carvings and arabesques 
and brilliant gold and red lacquer. The elaborate ceiling, 
which is said to have been painted by the celebrated artist 
Kano Chickanobu, is one of the most magnificent in the 
empire. After the lapse of several hundred years we find 
the colors softened and subdued by time and weather, still 
we can conjure up in our imagination the blaze of glory 
which shone forth in all its richness of carving and color- 
ing on completion two centuries ago. The temple itself is 
divided into three parts, an outer oratory, a communicating 
gallery or corridor and an inner sanctum. In feudal times 
when the shogun cajne to worship the spirit of his ancestors, 
he alone ascended to the sanctum, while the great daimios 
ranged themselves next him in the corridor below, the lesser 
nobles occupying the oratory. 

**It is not my intention to attempt a description of the 
elaborate architecture, carvings, and paintings of the beau- 
tiful temples of Tokio, for this I leave to more competent 
hands. It is enough to say that from the eighth to the six- 
teenth centuries, Japan, like Europe, ran mad to build holy 
temples and shrines and to teach its subjects that man was 
born into the world smiply to suffer and prepare for death. 
It was during this period that every mountain range, 
wooded slope, and sequestered dale was dotted with thou- 
sands of temples, monasteries, and convents and the nation 
impoverished with its armies of immoral and militant 
priests and dissolute nuns. It was then that leyasu, on 
finding his government threatened by the armies of priests, 
burned three thousand temples on the mountain of Hiei- 
zan and put -4.000 of the monks to the sword. 

''We will now pass through the Kara-Mon, or Chinese 
gate, and examine the beautifully painted carvings of flow- 
ers and birds which decorate the panels. From here we 
will follow the avenue which leads to the tomb, ornamented 

[ 188 ] 



YOKOHAMA TO TOKIO 

as you will notice by two hundred and twelve bronze lan- 
terns, which were presented by the daimios as a mark of 
respect and esteem to their dead master. Tlie tomb itself 
is reached by ascending a stone stairway, where we come 
face to face with the sarcopha^s which rests upon an oc- 
tagonal base and somewhat resembles a small pagoda. The 
simplicity of the tomb contrasts strongly with the magnifi- 
cence of the temple and preaches a sermon, by design or 
accident, on worldly vanity. 

**Let us now enter the second division of the pantheon 
through the great gate of the Temple of Zojoji, containing 
the temples and tombs of the sixth, twelfth, and fourteenth 
shoguns, which compare favorably with those previously 
visited. Behind the principal temple stands a small, richly 
decorated building, the gogoku-den, containing the treas- 
ures and arms of the dead rulers. Their images clad in 
armor are seated on each side of the altar, while the per- 
sonal objects belonging to them, such as bronze cups, pot- 
tery, coin, reliquaries and arms, are ranged around the 
room on shelves. 

''We reach the third division of the group in visiting 
the temple of the consorts of four of the shoguns who are 
interred in an inclosure beyond. In the extreme corner 
you will see the tomb of a concubine of the fifth shogun. 
The mortuary temple and tomb of Ilidetada, the son of 
leyasu, is located here. The large columns of lacquered 
wood, the gold-lacquered pillars and heavy beams, together 
with the relative height of the interior, make the building 
strangely imposing. On a stand within rests the war-drum 
of the great leyasu. 

''From here we ascend to the top of the hill behind the 
tomb where a magnificent view of the bay may be obtained, 
and from there descend to the little temple of Benten which 
is located below on a small islet, the waters around which 
are covered with the pads of the lotus plant. Benten is one 
of the seven goddesses of good luck, the deity who married 
the child-devouring dragon of Enoshima. Being a female 

[189] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

goddess and interested in the fortunes of the fair sex, the 
temple receives a large number of worshippers whose ambi- 
tion in life is to secure a mate. 

''In front of the temple of the benign goddess stands a 
shrine presided over by Tema who holds the keys of Hades. 
Occasionally the noise and din which one hears in passing 
result from the howls and the drum-beating of the fanatical 
priests, who at that particular time have removed the lid 
of the infernal regions to give the occupants a whiff of 
fresh air. 

''Beyond the valley on the opposite hill you will see the 
Koyokwan or the Maple Club, noted for its excellent Jap- 
anese dinners and attractive geisha girls, and a little far- 
ther on is the English church of St. Andrew." 



[190] 



CHAPTER XXI 

SIGHT-SEEING IN OLD YEDO 

HiBiYA, THE Park of Recreation — Baseball, Tennis, 
AND Football — Kudan Hill and the Patriot's 
Shrine — Museum of Arms — The Emperor's Palace 
— Simple Life of the Mikado — The House of Par- 
liament — University and Educational Institutions 
OF Japan — Ueno Park and Public Museum — 
AsAKusA Park, the Bowery of Tokio — The Yoshi- 
WARA, THE Palace of Vice — Spring Hill Cemetery 
AND THE Forty-seven Ronin. 

ON reaching Shiba Park we dismissed our rickshas and 
concluded to trust to the transportation afforded by 
the street cars which are more rapid and less expensive. 

From Shiba we were conducted to Hibiya Park, which 
is one of the most recent additions to the park system of 
the city and is largely used for athletic sports, among which 
are baseball, tennis, and football. Baseball has taken a 
strong hold among the Japanese youth, and wherever you 
go you will find a game in progress with an interested 
crowd of rooters. Singular as it may appear, the English 
expressions are used, and it is not uncommon to hear in the 
heart of Japan ''Strike Three,'* "Foul BaU," and "Batter 
Out," or "Love Fifteen," "Love Forty," or "Game," 
while playing baseball or tennis. Besides the athletie 
grounds, Hibiya contains the House of Parliament, Naval 
and Judicial Departments, and Courts of Justice. Beyond 
are located the Russian and Chinese legations and the For- 
eign Office. This neighborhood contains the palaces of the 

[191] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

nobles and the homes of the wealthy and the most fashion- 
able element of the gay capital. 

A short way beyond the English embassy on the Kudan 
Hill stands the Patriot's Shrine or the Shohonsha, con- 
structed in 1865 in honor of the illustrious dead who had 
fallen in defence of the country during previous wars in 
the cause of the Mikado. The Kudan Shrine, as it is popu- 
larly called by the English-speaking people, stands on a 
commanding elevation within spacious grounds and affords 
a fine view of the city. A stone pavement, lined with hand- 
some lanterns of stone and bronze, leads up to the little 
shrine, which is of the simplest architecture and character- 
istic of Shinto temples. During May and November of 
each year festivals lasting three days are held on Kudan 
Hill in commemoration of the national dead and include 
games resembling the funereal sports of ancient Rome. 

To the right of the temple stands the Museum of Arms, 
well worthy of a visit; it contains many specimens of an- 
cient and modern arms. Here we see the sword, spear, 
and matchlock of the ancient samurai, old bronze cannon 
from Korea and China, trophies of the war with China and 
Russia, portraits of great military and naval heroes, among 
which are private soldiers and sailors. Japan makes no dis- 
tinction in honoring her illustrious dead, whether noble 
or plebeian, general or private. What a lesson in patriotism 
and amor patriae! Do you wonder, my friend, that the 
chivalrous Japs threw themselves upon the serried ranks 
of the Russian Bear, or never faltered when ordered 
into the very jaws of death on 203 Metre Hill? 

The Japanese nation inspires patriotism among its peo- 
ple from the cradle to the grave. In the public grounds 
and parks, in front of the temples, colleges, and school 
houses, in every sequestered corner of the land, from Naga- 
saki to Hakodate, you will find trophies from the many vic- 
torious wars, mounted on pedestals with appropriate in- 
scriptions announcing the courage and bravery of her sons. 
You will see troupes of scholars from colleges, academies, 

[192] 



SIGHT-SEEING IN OLD YEDO 

and schools, large and small, male and female, headed by 
their masters, filing through the national parks and muse- 
ums in the large cities, at Tokio, Kioto, Nara, and Nik-ko, 
everywhere at government expense, in order that they may 
understand the greatness of their country and what their 
ancestors have done. On the grounds of the Kudan Hill 
statues to many of the distinguished defenders of the coun- 
try have been erected. A handsome bronze immortalizes 
the great patriot Omura Hyobu Tayu, as well as General 
Kawakwan, and there is a superb monument to the gallant 
men who fell during the Satsuma Rebellion. 

"We will now visit the Emperor's palace, which is one 
of the most interesting sights of Tokio and lies within ex- 
tensive grounds in the heart of the city, surrounded by 
moats and walls built in the true Cyclopean style of the 
sixteenth century. 

"Yedo, " said the Professor, "was but a mere fishing vil- 
lage belonging to the fief of a small daimio, Ola Dokwan, 
when seized by leyasu in 1595. On the death of Nobun- 
aga, Hideyoshi, who had phenomenally arisen to the head 
of the government, recognized Yedo as a strategic point 
and directed leyasu to seize it and establish the shogunate 
there. Tokio, as it is now called, has remained ever since 
the capital of the ruling power of the Empire, for on the 
abdication of the last shogun in 1868, Musuhito, the present 
Mikado-Emperor, removed his throne from Kioto. ' ' 

The palace stands within a double line of moats which 
are connected by a vast network of canals traversing the 
city and joined to the Sumida River, which, like the Thames, 
cuts the great capital in twain. The Imperial Residence 
is built in the style of architecture in vogue for many cen- 
turies, an irregular one-story building, containing many 
apartments elegantly furnished and artistically decorated. 
In keeping with the Western ideas, which have been courted 
by the Emperor, the palace is filled with handsome Oriental 
rugs, rich hangings, and European furniture. Behind the 
building are beautiful gardens laid out centuries ago dur- 
13 [ 193 ] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

ing the reign of lemitsu, the grandson of leyasu, at the 
time ruling shogun. 

Here in the palace lives the Mikado, who for the first 
time in 700 years has ruled his people. Previous to this 
time he was considered too sacred to participate in the af- 
fairs of men. So sacred and divine was he held until his 
arrival in Tokio, that no one was allowed to see his face, 
even during audiences with the ambassadors from the sho- 
gun 's capital or the holy processions of priests, who suppli- 
cated at his throne. What a revolution has occurred in Ja- 
pan 's social fabric during two short generations, for now we 
see the once holy IMikado holding public receptions like 
other monarchs and mixing with the public on the streets 
with the simplicity of a Swedish king. Everything has 
been transformed in Dai-Nippon since the coming of 
America's fleet in 1853 which bore the olive branch of 
peace. 

The despotic empire of a dictatorial autocrat has given 
way to the complacent ruler of a constitutional government 
modelled on the plan of Germany's Imperial Diet. 

The Parliament is composed of a House of Peers and 
House of Representatives, the former occupying their seats 
through hereditary prerogative, the latter are elected by 
the people. The diet is convened yearly by the emperor 
and presided over by a president or vice-president nomi- 
nated by him. 

With the constitutional government has also come a rev- 
olution in the educational system of the country. The old 
regime under the Buddhist priests has crumbled away and 
the methods of the Western world introduced. The Uni- 
versity of Tokio includes six faculties : Law, Medicine, En- 
gineering, Literature, Science, and Agriculture, and among 
its graduates are some of the most distinguished men of 
the world, military and scientific. Among the graduates 
of medicine are Kitasato, Shiga, and Nogouchi, who have 
contributed their full meed of work to the wonderful ad- 
vancement made in the study of microbic diseases and 

[194] 



SIGHT-SEEING IX OLD YEDO 

their prevention. A second university has been established 
in Kioto. 

"There are many educational institutions in Japan," 
said the Professor, "among which may be mentioned the 
Higher Normal School for young men and women, fifty- 
seven normal schools, a Higher Commercial School, a For- 
eign Language School, various military- and naval acade- 
mies, a School of Navigation, a School of Fine Arts, the 
Tokio Musical Academy, schools for the deaf and dumb, 
an agricultural college at Sapporo and six high schools lo- 
cated in various provinces. Besides the higher institutions 
of education, the government supports 27,000 public schools 
with a staff of 120,000 teachers and an attendance of 6,000,- 
000 pupils. There are 300 middle schools ^^ith 5,000 
teachers and 150,000 pupils, besides hundreds of kinder- 
gartens, which are well patronized by hundreds of thou- 
sands of uniformed tots imbibing ideas of patriotism and 
good citizenship. In addition to all these there are many 
private colleges and schools for both sexes, among which 
should be mentioned the great educational establishment 
of Fukuzawa Tukichi, who refused a peerage like Glad- 
stone and Bright because he considered the man superior 
to the position. 

"Urbanity, politeness, and courtesy are instilled into 
the mind of every child from infancy, while filial love, re- 
spect, and obedience become the basis of their moral code. 
There is nothing more reprehensible among the Japanese 
children than disobedience to parents and disrespect of the 
old. Besides the mental and moral, physical training is 
by no means neglected ; from the juvenile squad of the kin- 
dergarten to the university' senior, drills and calisthenic 
exercises are required. Patriotism and the militar^^ spirit 
appear ever^^where among the nation as a whole, regard- 
less of age, condition, or sex, and a desire to emulate the 
West in ways of acting and thinking. 

"^Vhen we contrast the results attained by Japan under 
a liberal and unrestricted svstem of education and public 

[195] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

thought with that. of poor old benighted Spain and her fos- 
ter children, the Spanish colonies, which were educated un- 
der the rigid censorship of mediasval monasticism, one might 
readily conceive that the sad experiences connected with 
the expulsion of the Catholic friars from Japan in the 
seventeenth century, were a blessing in disguise." 

We had devoted as much of our day to the palace and 
government grounds as we could spare, so our guide in- 
formed us that we must pass on to Ueno Park if we desired 
to carry out our programme for the day. Ueno, which lies 
on the north side of the city and is reached by the electric 
cars, is the largest park in the city and one of the most 
interesting. 

*' Previous to the establishment of the capital in Tokio," 
said the Professor, ''the property belonged to a private 
family, but was secured by lemitsu, who planned to erect 
a number of temples on the grounds which would eclipse 
in splendor all others in the Empire. The main temple, 
which had always been presided over by a high priest who 
was a son of the Mikado, was destroyed by fire in 1868 
during the war between the shogun and Mikado.'* 

On ascending the hill from the street car the visitor 
reaches a high plateau from which an excellent view of the 
city is obtained, especially of Asakusa Park with its Twelve 
Storied Tower. Among the notable sights connected with 
this park is the beautiful avenue of cherry-trees, which is a 
great drawing-card during the season of blossom. At that 
time thousands repair to the park and spend the day with 
their families, enjoying the exquisite pink clouds above, 
which later form a carpet beneath the trees of the most del- 
icate shade. 

Ueno is celebrated for its Public Museum which con- 
tains departments of natural history, archaeology, art, 
industry, history and fine arts, and in every sense is an 
institution worthy of study and inspection. In the depart- 
ment of natural history fine specimens of the long-tailed 
cocks of Tosa may be seen, several of which parade a caudal 

[196] 




SIGHT-SEEING IN OLD YEDO 

appendage over fourteen feet long. The historical and 
archagological departments contain a fine display of ancient 
armor, arms, and domestic instruments and utensils. Curi- 
ous and ancient gilded bullock carts and draped palanquins 
for the use of shoguns, and thrones with rich hangings 
such as were used by the ]\Iikados before their subjects 
could with safety gaze upon their countenances, are also on 
exhibition, besides the ' ' Trampling Board, ' ' with the figure 
of Christ on the cross, used as a test during the persecu- 
tions of the Catholics. 

Besides the temples, museums, and avenues of trees, 
Ueno contains the mausolea of six of the Tokugawa sho- 
guns, confined to an inclosure by themselves. The two 
mortuary temples resemble those in Shiba Park, though 
possibly not so magnificent in design. The prevailing 
color of these temples is red, which seems to have been a 
favorite hue with the Buddhist priests. Another temple 
in these grounds contains the tombs of eight mothers of the 
Mikados, none of whom were legal wives. 

''The system of concubinage," said the Professor, *'was 
an ancient custom with the Japanese and illegitimacy was 
scarcely recognized. While it is not generally known, it is 
a fact that the present Crown Prince is not the offspring 
from the ruling Empress." 

A fine restaurant has been established in the park 
grounds, the Seiyoken, which is delightfully located and 
affords an excellent view of the city. From Ueno we pro- 
ceeded by train to Asakusa, an environment devoted both 
to religion and pleasure and patronized by the hoi polloi 
of the city. 

' * The great Buddhist temple, ' ' said the Professor, * * which 
is known as the Higashi Hongwangi built in 1657, is lo- 
cated here and protected by iron netting to prevent de- 
struction by fires which were so common in Tokio, owing 
to the inflammable character of the houses, that they were 
known as 'The Flowers of Yedo.' The carvings on the 
porch are exceedingly handsome, representing chrysanthe- 

[197] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

mum and peony flowers with their leaves. The temple, 
as you see, is built on a gigantic scale, for the floor of the 
nave alone requires one hundred and forty mats. On the 
twenty-first and twenty-eighth of November imposing 
ceremonies are conducted here in honor of the founder of 
the Monto sect. On this occasion the male worshippers ap- 
pear in a singular costume, called *Kata-Ginu,' and the 
females with a curious-looking headdress, called 'Horn- 
Hiders.' Unfortunately the white ants which are so de- 
structive in the Philippines and Far East have nearly 
honeycombed the timbers of the entire edifice and it is liable 
at any time to collapse. 

''The temple dedicated to the Goddess Kwannon located 
in Asakusa is also worthy of a visit; according to tradi- 
tion it was established in 553 a.d., during the reign of the 
Empress Suiko. In 1180 Yoritomo endowed it with 
eighty acres of land, which was confiscated when leyasu 
founded his capital in Tokio. This was done because he 
found that the place had gone to ruin and the priests were 
living in idleness and immorality." 

Professor B. H. Chamberlain of Tokio says: **0n no ac- 
count should a visit to this temple and surrounding grounds 
be omitted for it is a great holiday resort of the middle 
and lower classes and nothing is more striking than the 
juxtaposition of piety and pleasure, of gorgeous altars and 
grotesque ex-votos, of dainty costumes and dingy idols, the 
clatter of clogs, cocks, and hens strutting about among 
worshippers, children playing, soldiers smoking, believers 
chaffering with dealers of charms, ancient art, modern ad- 
vertisements ; in full a spectacle than which surely nothing 
more motley was ever witnessed within the precincts of a 
religious edifice." 

Across the way hangs the large bell whose sonorous 
sounds are heard far and near. Among the attractions 
here is the realistic panorama of the Battle of Honnoji 
'which occurred in 1582, tragically painted by Horin Gos- 

[198] 



n 

o 

O 

JO 

> 

H 

s 

5 

o 
o 

2; 

H 

W 

> 

> 

73 
> 

< 

PI 

o 





< 

< 



p6 

< 

o 

fa 
o 

w 
o 
;?; 

> 

w" 
hJ 
H 

< 

o 
o 
< 



SIGHT-SEEING IN OLD YEDO 

eda. Asakusa is the Bowery of Tokio, the quaintest and 
liveliest place in the city. 

On the extreme northern border of the city is located 
the most celebrated palace of vice in the world, the Yosh- 
iwara, a city occupied by 3,000 Jezebels, who appear nightly 
in open, gilded reception rooms, to entice the dissolute 
youth of the city and ennuied married men who find life 
at home, with stupid wives, insufferably dull. 

*'For several centuries in Japan," said the Professor, 
* * the law recognized the great Social Evil, which had spread 
to every inn, tavern, and tea-house in the Empire. So 
common had the practice of prostitution become that dis- 
solute courtesans, with mat in hand, made propositions 
to the most respectable citizens on the public highways. 
In order to remedy the demoralizing situation lemitsu set 
aside the present site of the Yoshiwara, which was far 
beyond the city limits at the time and located in a reedy 
marsh from which it took its name. Since then the dis- 
trict has grown to be a city of itself, with palatial resi- 
dences two and three stories high furnished in the most gor- 
geous style. 

''The courtesans are divided by the police regulations 
into four classes, which are indicated by the outside ap- 
pearance of the dwellings and the expenditure made on 
the toilets of the inmates. The system of recruitment is 
made by civil contracts, in which the young women, none 
of whom are allowed under eighteen years of age, agree 
to remain for the period of three years, although according 
to modern laws they can leave at will. On entering the 
Yoshiwara, where they are usually conducted by a relative 
or friend, from fifty to a hundred yen are advanced to 
bind the bargain and later a sum sufficient to purchase a 
suitable wardrobe, the latter depending upon the class of 
courtesanship the novitiate elects to enter." 

The women found in the Yoshiwara, like courtesans else- 
where all over the wide, wide world, belong to the lowest 

[199] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

classes and few among them are found refined or educated, 
in spite of the many romantic stories told of the daughters 
of noble families who entered a life of shame to save their 
parents from financial ruin, or to raise sufficient money 
to send an aspiring brother to the university. It is true 
that in former times they were held as slaves as long as 
profitable to the proprietors, after which they gravitated 
to the purlieus of social degradation or were found floating 
on the merciful bosom of the Sumida. 

During the evening hours, with red lights streaming 
from a thousand lanterns along the fagade of the houses, 
the painted courtesans in gorgeous reception rooms, open 
to the street, save for a grill of iron, present a brilliant 
and alluring picture to the spectator. It is at the dusky 
hour of eve that hundreds of the youths of the city, and 
frequently men with families, hie themselves to the Yoshi- 
wara to have a friendly chat with their friends or enjoy 
the brilliant panorama spread before them. Few foreign- 
ers who reach Tokio fail to visit this celebrated City of 
Vice, regardless of condition or sex, even beardless youths 
and undeveloped girls. During our visit an American 
youth scarcely twenty with two girls, apparently tourists 
from the United States, were observed among the curious 
crowd. 

The afternoon was passing rapidly away though we had 
completed our programme for the day, except the visit to 
Sengakuji where is located the mortuary temple and tombs 
of the Forty-seven Ronin so celebrated in the song and ro- 
mances of Dai-Nippon. 

''It is getting late. Professor," said the Major, as we 
emerged from the Yoshiwara, *'and we are going to ex- 
cuse you for the remainder of the day. I am well ac- 
quainted with the Sengakuji and will escort the party 
there myself, especially as it lies a mile beyond Shiba 
Park and on the way back to Yokohama." 

It was not long before we reached the celebrated cemetery 
of Spring Hill, as translated in English, which rests upon 

[200] 



SIGHT-SEEING IN OLD YEDO 

an elevation overlooking the bay. In the sacred square, 
ranged in quadrangular form, stood the headstones of 
this immortal band who sacrificed their lives three hun- 
dred years ago to avenge their lord and master, who after 
the most unprovoked insult, was ordered to commit hara- 
kiri, because he dared defend his honor in the palace of 
the shogun. 

In the comer of the square stood the tomb of Sir Big 
Rock, the captain of the immortal band, and but a few 
yards away, the tomb of the unfortunate lord. Around 
them both, like soldiers waiting the final roll-call, ranged 
the tombs of the forty-six ronin, who belonged to the rank 
and file. A short distance away stood the Kauranyo, or 
storehouse, in which are kept to this day the swords, the 
armor, and clothing of the ronin, and near by is the well 
with the waters of which they washed the bloody head of 
Sir Kira, their master's foe, before placing it upon his 
tomb. 



[201] 



CHAPTER XXII 

THE STORY OF THE FORTY-SEVEN RONIN 

The Dual Government — Lords Kira, Ako, and Sama — 
The Royal Envoy from Kioto — Lord Kira's Insult 

— Lord Ako 's Attack — Death of Lord Ako — 
Petition to the Shogun — The Ronin's Resolve — 

— Three Weary Years of Waiting — The Attack on 
Lord Kira 's Castle and His Death — Ceremonies at 
Spring Hill Cemetery — Silence and Death of the 

RONIN. 

THE lingering blush of the golden sun was fading into 
the gray twilight of night as we reached the foot of 
the cemetery en route to Yokohama. 

"You have seen the tombs of the famous Forty-seven 
Ronin," said the Major, *'and if agreeable I will give you 
a brief outline of this remarkable story, which involves a 
principle very dear to the hearts of the nation. 

"From the year 1600 until 1868 Japan," said the Ma- 
jor, "was under the control of a dual government and pos- 
sessed two capitals. One was located in Kioto, and was 
occupied by the sacred Mikado who had little or nothing 
to do with the actual control of public affairs, while the 
other was established at Yedo, now Tokio, and was ruled, 
by the powerful Tokugawa shoguns who managed the af- 
fairs of the government with the autocratic power of a 
Czar, although he recognized the Mikado as the hereditary 
Emperor and spiritual head of the Empire. 

"While the shogun paid no attention to the Mikado, as 
far as the affairs of government were concerned, he ob- 
served with great rigor the social etiquette of his sov- 

[202] 



STORY OF FORTY-SEVEN RONIN 

ereign's court, and sent with marked regularity the annual 
embassy of nobles bearing rich presents and protestations 
of continued loyalty. Likewise the Mikado sent an em- 
bassy of nobles and priests to the shogun's court once 
yearly which was received with the pomp and ceremony 
due the Mikado's representatives. During these visits the 
most distinguished and wealthy daimios in the empire were 
ordered to assist at the reception to the embassy and to par- 
ticipate in the entertainments given in the gay capital of 
the East, as Yedo was called in contradistinction to Kioto 
which was known as the capital of the West. 

"It was early in November, 1698, on the announcement 
of the early arrival of the embassy from Kioto, that Lord 
Kira, master of ceremonies for the shogun, sent word to 
Lords Ako and Sama, two powerful daimios, who were 
visiting Tokio at the time, to present themselves at the 
palace in order to receive instructions relative to the cere- 
monies to be observed on the arrival of the Imperial Envoy. 
Sir Kira was not a nobleman by birth and lacked many of 
the principles which mark the man of breeding. In addi- 
tion to his innate coarseness he was corrupt, greedy, and in- 
solent in the discharge of his duties. 

''Lord Sama's administrator was aware of Sir Kira's 
nature and sent him handsome presents in order to insure 
good treatment for his lord and master. Lord Ako's 
administrator had likewise forwarded handsome gifts, but 
unfortunately the agents had failed to deliver them. It 
will be understood that neither of the courtiers ordered 
to assist in the reception were aware that the bribes had 
been sent, nor did they understand the venal nature of the 
insolent master of ceremonies as well as their trusted 
servants did. 

*'Not having received the consideration from Lord Ako 
to which he felt entitled, Sir Kira decided to humiliate the 
proud nobleman in every way possible during the prepara- 
tory instruction for the reception. Lord Ako, who was re- 
strained by a sense of duty as well as breeding bore the in- 

[203] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

suits with patience as long as possible. On the morning 
the embassy was expected from Kioto the two noblemen 
proceeded to the castle to receive their final instruction. 
After complimenting Lord Sama for his aptness, Sir Kira 
turned to Ako and said ' Here, my lord, tie the string of my 
sock which has become loosened.' 

''Although Lord Ako's patience was nearly exhausted 
he complied with the insulting request. Later Lord Sama 
was excused from further attendance but Lord Ako was 
informed that he was not only clumsy but would be taken 
for a country boor on account of his ignorance and bad 
manners. At this last provocation the insulted lord could 
no longer restrain himself, so drawing his sword he cried, 
'Defend yourself, Lord Kira, for I will no longer submit 
to such unjust treatment.' Instead of defending himself 
Sir Kira, craven that he was, trembled with fear and fled, 
but not before he had received a blow on his brow, the scar 
from which remained until his death. 

"Shortly afterwards an official of the shogun arrived 
on the scene and ordered Lord Ako to retire to his resi- 
dence in arrest. Two weeks later he received an order 
from the Council of Elders to commit hara-kiri, and, at 
the same time, an announcement of the extinction of his 
family and confiscation of his estates. 

"The order had been anticipated by Lord Ako, who in 
the meanwhile had attended to his affairs and made every 
preparation for the ordeal. At once he summoned two of 
his most trusted samurai, who were to act as seconds, and 
bade them remove the screens from a recess in the hall 
where the ceremony was to be enacted. Advancing to the 
place of execution and placing himself on the mats pro- 
vided for the occasion. Lord Ako removed his outer gar- 
ments, which revealed the shiromuka, the white suit worn 
during the ordeal. 

' ' Before him sat the two commissioners from the shogun, 
cold and stern, and behind him his faithful samurai who 
were to perform the awful duty of seconds. Addressing 

[204] 



STORY OF FORTY-SEVEN RONIN 

the commissioners Lord Ako said, 'With your permission 
I will give my final instruction to my councillors.' He 
then bade one of them approach and pointing to a white 
pine box whispered into his ear a message and at the same 
time handed him a letter. The scene was most impressive 
as Lord Ako ceased to speak. He gazed through the open 
screen at the beautiful world he so soon would leave, then 
grasped the knife handed him by one of the seconds and 
bowed his head. That afternoon a mournful funeral pro- 
cession wended its way to the cemetery of Spring Hill Tem- 
ple, where rests to-day all that was mortal of the chival- 
rous and noble Lord of Ako. 

^'Shintoism, the religion of the Land of the Rising Sun, 
taught that loyalty to the sovereign, reverence for ances- 
tral memory, and filial piety were the prime tenets by 
which one's life should be guided and eternal honor and 
existence secured. The golden words of the ancients had 
taught that Svhen the master is insulted it is for the serv- 
ant to die.' Confucius had also said, 'Thou shalt not live 
under the same heaven with the enemy of thy master or 
parent. ' 

''As may be imagined great consternation was felt by 
the band of ronin when they learned of their master's 
death, for they were not only deprived of a chief but of 
the annual allowances paid for their services. They felt 
themselves grossly wronged, for had their lord not been in- 
sulted, humbled, and ordered to commit hara-kiri for an 
act done in defence of his honor? They knew full well 
that the laws of the country demanded their master 's death, 
because he had unlawfully unsheathed his sword in the 
castle of the shogun. They expected, however, that Lord 
Kira would be punished for his conduct, but were dismayed 
to find that beyond a temporary suspension from office, no 
punishment was meted out to the insolent lord. 

"The injury rankled in the hearts of the clansmen, so 
they decided to avenge their master's death, though in so 
doing they would sacrifice their own lives. They knew full 

[ 205 1 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

well that the spirit of their lord would wander restless 
upon the face of the earth until he had been avenged and 
that the unhappy widow could never die content until Sir 
Kira had paid the penalty for his infamy. Shortly after 
Lord Ako's death the clansmen were called to the castle 
by the chief councillor to hear their dying master's letter 
read, which contained nothing save the words *Thou 
knowest. * 

''A deadly silence reigned for a few moments in the 
great hall, when Sir Big Rock, the chief councillor, said: 
'My comrades, we must remember the words of the an- 
cients, ''when the master is insulted it is for the servants 
to die. ' ' But first let us petition the shogun to appoint a 
successor to our late lord and thus restore the house of 
Ako.' / 

"A few weeks later a commissioner arrived demanding 
that the castle be turned over to the shogun 's representa- 
tive at once, and informing the clan that their petition for 
a successor to Lord Ako had been refused. On receiving 
this message Lord Big Rock said, ' Comrades, is it not writ- 
ten by Confucius, "Thou shalt not live under the same 
heaven nor tread the same earth with the enemy of thy 
master or parent'*? But the time has not arrived for us 
to use our swords upon ourselves. The death of our lord 
must first be avenged.' At this point a written compact 
was produced by Sir Big Rock, by which they agreed never 
to rest until Sir Kira was dead. This was read to the 
forty-seven ronin present, all of whom took the solemn 
oath and appended their signatures in blood. After the 
death of a daimio the samurai became ronin and remained 
so until they attached themselves to another master. 

"Several days after the surrender of the castle. Sir Big 
Rock assigned each member of the devoted band to some 
special duty where the movements of Sir Kira could be 
watched. For three long years the members of the clan 
watched the most minute movement and action of their de- 
tested enemy and it would be impossible to recite in this 

[206] 



STORY OF FORTY-SEVEN RONIN 

narrative the many instances of personal sacrifice, poverty, 
and hardships they experienced during the period. The 
ruses and dissimulations resorted to by the faithful band 
were marvellously executed and excited the wonder and 
admiration of every one. 

* ' Sir Big Rock entered into every kind of low debauchery 
and drunkenness to deceive and throw off their guard the 
spies of Sir Kira who watched the movements of the con- 
spirators under assumed names. Numbers of the ronin 
occupied menial positions as servants in the homes of Sir 
Kira's friends or the shogun's officials. Others had van- 
ished from the public eye altogether though they never lost 
sight of the one object for which they continued to live. 

''Three years had now elapsed since Lord Ako's death 
and nothing further was heard of the dreadful compact. 
The conspirators had disappeared from public notice or had 
degenerated as low as the eta *, or became drunkards, and 
the friends of Sir Kira advised him that all danger was 
past. The gratifying news came from a distant province 
that the arch-conspirator, Lord Big Rock, had become a 
common sot and was frequently seen lying in the gutter 
in a besotted condition. It is true that the loyal chief of 
Sir Ako had resorted to the lowest practices to deceive Sir 
Kira's spies and had even become so low that his wife 
would no longer live with him. 

*' Within a few days of the third anniversary of Lord 
Ako's death it was learned that Sir Kira, who had been liv- 
ing in seclusion, intended to return to Yedo and give a pub- 
lic entertainment. The news reached Sir Big Rock who at 
once returned to the capital and summoned the clansmen 
to meet him at midnight in an old vacant house in an un- 
frequented part of the city. Here by the feeble light of 
candles the roll was called and forty-seven ronin responded. 
Sir Big Rock remained silent for a moment engaged in deep 
thought, then gazing upon the devoted band said: 'Broth- 

* The etd represented the social pariahs of Japan, a class with 
whom no respectable person would associate. 

[207] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

ers, three years ago our beloved lord committed this legacy 
to our charge. Since then some of his followers have 
proven faithless to the plighted oath ; those we leave to the 
vengeance of the gods and contempt of their fellow men. 
We who have assembled here have been sorely tried, but 
have patiently waited the hour of duty and sacrifice. Our 
powerful and vigilant enemy has been deceived into be- 
lieving us disloyal and untrue to our trust. In a few days 
Lord Kira gives a feast to his friends and on that night 
he shall cease to live, we care not how closely he may be 
guarded. ' 

^ ' The sacred box was now opened by the loyal chief, who 
revealed the blood-stained robe which had been worn by 
their lord, and the keen-edged knife which had ended his 
days. ' Comrades, ' he continued, * this is the weapon, which 
shall end Sir Kira's life and I swear by the gods of our 
ancestors never to leave his palace until the deed is per- 
formed. ' After receiving instructions as to the rendezvous 
on the night of the feast, the ronin left their chief who 
spent the remainder of the night on his knees before the 
bkuuiy legacy left him by his beloved master. 

"The day before the feast of Sir Kira, Sir Big Rock 
called his faithful domestics around him and said: 'The 
time has arrived when I will no longer need your services, 
I desire you to proceed to Richclitf house and deliver these 
letters to my father-in-law, my divorced but faithful wife, 
and loving children. The time has come for me to go on 
my long and lonesome journey, for the clansmen are to 
carry out their cherished plan to-night. ' 

"In the letter to his wife he said, 'I beg you to forgive 
me for the cruel and brutal manner in which I have treated 
you. You will never realize the misery I have sutfered 
from the separation, which was necessary, and the stigma 
that has fallen on our children. My honest and cherished 
wife, I will never see you again in this life, but my spirit 
will ever be present to watch over your welfare and that 
of the children. Farewell, wife of mv heart, and when my 

[ 208 ] 



STORY OF FORTY-SEVEN RONIN 

duty to my lord has been performed and I am travelling 
through the land of shadows, think of me as tenderly as 
you can and remember that I will be waiting on the Lonely 
Road to greet you when your earthly work is done/ 

''Sir Big Rock then proceeded to the home of Lady Ako, 
now known as Lady Pure Gem, who was suffering bitter 
grief and sorrow on the third anniversary of Lord Ako's 
death. "When the faithful chief was announced she de- 
clined to see him because she believed him false to his trust 
and unfaithful in his obligations. A lady-in-waiting was 
deputized to see Sir Big Rock and learn the object of his 
visit. From him she received a letter for her mistress and 
several books which the chief councillor begged should be 
given her. The letter contained an affectionate farewell 
to Lady Pure Gem and an announcement of the intended 
attack on Sir Kira's palace that very night, promising 
that he should surely die. 

"From the home of his unhappy mistress he went at 
once to the rendezvous of his fellow conspirators who were 
to assemble punctually at 10 o'clock that night. A sym- 
pathetic proprietor of a neighboring inn had prepared a 
bountiful feast for the band, and there they remained un- 
til after midnight, exchanging final vows of eternal fidelity 
in copious bowls of steaming sake. 

"The sounds of music and revelry were heard in the pal- 
ace of Sir Kira as the band armed with swords and ladders 
approached the outer wall of the building. After these 
had died away and the lights were extinguished in the pal- 
ace, the conspirators rapidly scaled the walls and were 
soon engaged in a hand-to-hand conflict with Lord Kira's 
samurai. The struggle was brief but sanguinary and 
within an hour the last defending warrior lay weltering on 
the crimson covered floor of the court. 

"A search was now instituted for the cowardly lord of 

the palace, who was nowhere to be found. His discovery 

was to be announced by the sound of a bugle, which would 

become the signal for the assembly of the band. Anxiously 

14 [ 209 ] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

had the many rooms in the large palace been carefully 
searched and every nook and cranny around the extensive 
grounds, when several of the ronin were suddenly attacked 
by two of Sir Kira's samurai, who were found guarding a 
coal-shed in the rear of the palace. After a short but fierce 
attack the nobleman's guardsmen were killed and the coal- 
shed examined. 

*'Sir Big Kock, whose presence was drawn by the sharp 
struggle said, 'Comrades, where you find one snake it is 
well to look for others, ' and advancing with a lantern found 
an object buried in a heap of coal dust, which resembled 
a large black dog. It proved to be Sir Kira who had 
run out of the palace during the conflict enveloped in a 
white satin sleeping robe which had become as black as 
charcoal. 

' * Immediately the bugle was sounded and the eager band 
of clansmen gathered around the enemy of their dead 
master, though many of them were desperately wounded 
in the deadly combat. Upon being dragged from his lair 
Lord Big Rock asked, 'Are you not Sir Kira?' to which 
the craven refused to reply. 'Yes, it is you, Lord Kira,' 
said one of the ronin, 'for I still see the scar on your brow 
made by our beloved lord when he endeavored to wipe out 
an unjust insult three years ago.' 

"Sir Big Rock then knelt before the trembling noble- 
man and respectfully addressing him, said, 'Sir Kira, we 
are the retainers of Lord Ako, who at your instigation 
was condemned to hara-kiri. We have waited three long 
years to avenge that cruel wrong and thus perform our 
duty as faithful and loyal men. "We pray that you will 
acknowledge the justice of our purpose and therefore be- 
seech you to perform upon yourself the honorable cere- 
mony, and I will honor myself by being your second.' 

"Lord Kira was overcome with fear and covering his 
face with his blackened hands fell upon the ground weep- 
ing. Finding that further argument with the terrorized 
lord was useless, Sir Big Rock produced the fatal dirk 

[210] 



STORY OF FORTY-SEVEN RONIN 

of his master and handed it to one of the ronin, with in- 
structions to terminate without further delay the earthly 
career of the unworthy nobleman. 

'*As the crimson hues of the morning sun began to 
tinge the hills around Yedo, the faithful band proceeded 
to the cemetery of Spring Hill Temple and placed the 
head of their master's foe with the blood-stained knife 
upon his tomb. A messenger was at once sent to Lady 
Pure Gem to come at once, in order to witness the offering 
made to the spirit of their dead master. Lady Pure Gem 
was too ill to leave her home but sent as a substitute Lady 
Pine Island who was her waiting maid. 

** Surrounding the tomb, which had been draped for the 
occasion, were the faithful ronin and their loyal leader, 
Sir Big Rock, who stepped forward with an incense burner 
and live charcoal. The forty-six ronin reverently kneel- 
ing before the tomb, Sir Big Rock took from his bosom a 
scroll and read as follows: 'Most sacred spirit of our noble 
lord, we come this day to do homage at your tomb and 
are willing to lay down our lives in your worthy cause. 
We have eaten your food and partaken of your bounty 
and feel that we are yours in all things according to the 
commands of Confucius. We would not have dared to 
present ourselves before you in Paradise without having 
first avenged you of that cruel insult. Worthy master, 
your life has shed lustre on the race of Nippon and thou- 
sands have come to worship at your shrine. The old, the 
feeble and sick, the young and strong have joyously come 
to end their lives with you. The dirk which poured out 
your noble blood and removed from this world your un- 
worthy foe we return to your tomb.' 

*'The ceremony was completed after each of the ronin 
had sprinkled incense upon the burning charcoal on Lord 
Ako's tomb, after making a farewell address. A few mo- 
ments later four noblemen from the shogun 's court entered 
the cemetery and advancing to Sir Big Rock and the ronin 
addressed them as follows: 'The wise councillors of elders 

[211] 



ON li:avk in japan 

iijive (locidod that you hnvo conspired against, broken into 
the palace, and slain Sir Kira, late master oT ceremonies, 
and his j^nard. You are, Ihi^refore, directed to prepare 
yourselves i'or hara-kiri, but before undergoing this hon- 
orable but just ordeal will be allowed to bid farewell to 
your families and fii(>nds who are to be banished to the 
island of Oshiiiui where they will remain during the pleas- 
ure (d' the sliogun.' 

''When the councillors had stopped speaking Lord Big 
Ivock advaiiciMl and said, *We acknowledge the justice of 
the sentence and gratefully return thanks for being per- 
mitted to die the honorable death of happy despatch.' *' 

On February 4, 1701, at the hour of the snake, 10 
A.M., and before the sounds of the temple bells had died 
away, the forty-six roinn led by thcii' dauntless chief, Sir 
Big ]\ock, i'ell into line and began the long march down 
the Lonely Iload whei-e they were awaited by their beloved 
lord and nuister. Although three centuries have passed 
away since the tragic ending of the forty-seven ronin oc- 
curred, the spirit of Bushido which actuated the gallant 
band, burns as strongly as ever in the hearts of their 
countrymen. 

''do to Spring TTill Temple, whene'er you will, whether 
it be when the pink clouds of cherry blossoms gladden the 
hearts of tlie peo[>lc, or the gorgeous tints of the autumn 
leaves vie with the golden sunset upon the distant hills, 
you will find a band of devotees nnngling their prayers 
with the burning incense in worship of the sacred dead." 



[212] 



CHAPTER XXIII 

NIK-KO AND LAKE CITUZENJI 

Visit to Nik-ko — Avenue of Cryptomerias Leading to 
THE Tomb — Villages of ITAcifi-isiii and Iri-machi — 
Hotels of Nik-ko — The Daiya-gawa and the Sacred 
Bridge — Siiodo Siionin and the Bridge of Snakes — 
Choy-o-kwan and the Rin-no-ji — The Torii and the 
Pagoda — The First Court and the Monkeys of Nik- 
ko — The Second Court and the Great Bell — The 
Gate of Yomei-mon and Third Court — The Kara- 
MON Gate and the *'IIoly of Holies" — The Famous 
Elephants and Sleeping Cat — The Tomb of Ieyasu 
— Trip to Lake Chuzenji — The Fifty Images of 
Amida — The White-Robed Pilgrims — Scenes along 
the Mountain Road — Mount Nan-tai-zan and Lake 
Chuzenji — Yomoto and its Copper-Stained Lake — 
Return to Nik-ko. 

THE day following our visit to Tokio and the Tombs 
of the Forty-Seven Ronin we left on an early train 
for Nik-ko, the crownin^^ necropolis of Nippon's j^reatest 
dead, which was reached after a pleasant journey of eight 
hours. The road runs almost directly north from Tokio 
and follows closely the Old Highway which for centuries 
past has been threaded by countless processions of holy 
pilgrims, en route to worship at the royal tombs. 

Down the hazy vistas of bygone centuries, in our dreamy 
fancies, we still can see the royal cavalcade, as it winds its 
way over the blue hills of ancient Yedo, led by the van- 
guard of powerful dairaios borne along in gilded palan- 

[213] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

quins and followed by the floating banners of their armed 
samurai and faithful retainers; long processions of Bud- 
dhist prelates in richly embroidered vestments, and ton- 
sured monks chanting the litany of their creed and swing- 
ing censers from which clouds of burning incense ascend 
to the spirits of departed ancestors. Legion upon legion 
of faithful white-robed pilgrims follow, whose infatuation 
for ancestor worship overcomes the hardships of the long 
and weary march. 

In making the trip to Nik-ko from Yokohama the trav- 
eller has to change cars at Shinagawa, Akabaue, and Utso- 
nomyia, an altogether useless procedure which should be 
remedied by the railroad authorities. Those who made 
the journey to Nik-ko before the railroad was completed 
beyond Utsonomyia, claim that the place has assumed a 
different atmosphere and is not now half so agreeable. 
The real pleasures of the trip then began on entering the 
magnificent avenue of cryptomerias which extended 
twenty-five miles across hill and dale before it reached the 
massive torii leading to the sacred tombs. 

Nowhere in the world save in the groves of the gigantic 
sequoia of California can more magnificent trees be seen 
than among the majestic cryptomerias which line the av- 
enues and form the background to the tombs of the great 
Tokugawa shoguns at Nik-ko. Hundreds of years ago these 
two grand macadamized avenues were built, the one begin- 
ning at Kanuma, the other at Utsonomyia, joining at Ima- 
chi four miles from Nik-ko, where they form a boulevard 
which has no equal in the world. Since the downfall of 
the shogunate in 1868, time has wrought many changes 
here and there among the great trees which bordered its 
margins; some have disappeared and the roadbed has be- 
come injured by the annual storms and constant use with- 
out repair. 

The country through which the tourist passes, en route 
to Nik-ko from Tokio, is picturesque and interesting and 
the railroad accommodations excellent. The Japanese au- 

[214] 



NIK-KO AND LAKE CHUZENJI 

thorities are very cautious in the management of their 
railway system and, in consequence, accidents are rare. 
Viaducts cross the tracks at every station and their use is 
enforced, it matters not how remote or unimportant they 
may be. Although the shrill whistle of the steam-engine 
now pervades the solemnity of the sacred tombs, nothing 
but the hand of Time can destroy the sublimity and gran- 
deur of the place. 

''Never use the word magnificent until you have seen 
Nik-ko," has become proverbial among the hosts of ad- 
miring visitors who for generations have found their way 
to this enchanting region of sunshine and storm. When 
the celestial gods descended from the Plains of Heaven 
to create Dai-Nippon they must have borne in mind the 
conception which was finally realized in this incomparable 
region of majestic mountains, rugged gorges, smiling val- 
leys, silvery waterfalls, and rolling downs. 

Long before the traveller reaches the sacred mausoleum 
of the dead, the towering peak of Nan-tai-zan, decked in 
the verdant foliage of its mighty forest giants, bursts upon 
the view like a beacon light to the mariner on a starless 
sea. Whether you go there in the early Spring, when the 
beauties of Nature are enhanced by the delicate clouds of 
plum and cherry blossoms and the blaze of glory which 
shines forth from the white and pink azalea trees, or 
whether amid the golden and scarlet tints of autumn, you 
will find Nik-ko the crowning gem of Nippon's mountain 
realm. 

On reaching the station w^e found ourselves at the lower 
end of a wide street a mile and a half long, leading through 
the straggling village of Hachi-ishi, before reaching the 
principal hotels w^hich are located on opposite sides of the 
Daiya-gawa, the little mountain stream which bathes the 
base of the sacred hill in which repose the illustrious dead. 
Fortunately for the traveller, Nik-ko is provided with two 
excellent modern hotels which compare favorably with tour- 
ist hotels in other parts of the world. The rooms are large 

[215] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

and comfortable, bathing facilities good, food excellent and 
the prices reasonable. 

The ''Kanaya'' and the *'Nik-ko" have been erected 
for foreign trade and are practically European in furniture, 
food, and management, although owned by Japanese com- 
panies and conducted by native managers. The native 
tourists usually patronize the Japanese inns and hotels 
which are located farther down the village and nearer the 
station. The Kanaya is most beautifully located on a high 
plateau, under the Daikoku hill, and overlooks the valley 
of the Daiya-gawa and the Sacred Bridge which lies a hun- 
dred feet below. 

It was on the site of the Kanaya that the Buddhist Saint 
Shodo Shonin is said to have built his hut and lived during 
the seventh century. The large and spacious grounds sur- 
rounding the hotel are covered with green lawns, handsome 
flowering trees, and parterres of flowers. Looking north 
from the hotel a beautiful panorama bursts upon the view. 
Tier upon tier of mountain-sides, covered with every shade 
of green, yellow, and scarlet, bursts upon the vision, while 
for miles towards Nan-tai-zan winds the beautiful valley of 
the Daiya-gawa. The Nik-ko, which is a much older hotel, 
is located in the village of Iri-machi on the other side of 
the river, some distance below the tomb of lemitsu. 

Between the two villages which constitute the town of 
Nik-ko flows the brisk mountain stream, the Daiya-gawa, the 
outlet for Lake Chuzenji which lies on the high plateau 
at the foot of Mount Nan-tai-zan, eight miles away. From 
this quiet little lake the impetuous stream leaps headlong 
down the mountain-side, sheer two hundred and fifty feet 
through canon and gorge in its eagerness to reach the 
winding valley below, where it continues its wild course, 
skurrying, flurrying, and hurrying, forcing, tossing, and 
crossing, soaring, pouring, and roaring, grumbling, mum- 
bling, and tumbling, ringing, jingling, and singing an In- 
dian love song of the ancient Aino, as it hastens by temple, 

[216] 



NIK-KO AND LAKE CHUZENJI 

tomb, and sacred bridge before plunging into the deep blue 
sea. 

The pantheon of Nik-ko, which consists of the mortuary 
temples and tombs, is indescribably beautiful and makes 
a fitting resting place for two of the greatest rulers Japan 
has ever produced. Possibly within the entire Empire no 
more appropriate place could have been selected, where 
Nature had so wonderfully conspired to match the 
solemnity and sacredness of the purpose. 

To reach the tombs from the Kanaya hotel or lower vil- 
lage, one has to cross the large temporary bridge con- 
structed for the use of the general public. Forty feet 
farther up the stream is located the Sacred Bridge, of a 
brilliant red color, which was reserved for the sacred feet 
of the shogun, except twice yearly when the white-robed 
pilgrims are allowed to cross. An exception was made to 
our distinguished fellow countryman and former president, 
General Grant, in 1877, who modestly declined the honor. 

This historic bridge was first constructed in 1638, but 
was washed away by the great flood of 1902, and restored 
in 1907. The site where the bridge stands was according 
to legend crossed by the Buddhist Saint Shodo Shonin in 
769. On returning from a journey in quest of four mirac- 
ulous colored clouds which he had seen from the top of 
a neighboring mountain, he found his progress barred by 
the foaming Daiya-gawa and immediately fell on his knees 
and began to pray. Whereupon on the opposite side of 
the river a divine being of colossal size appeared in blue 
robes, with a string of skulls hung around his neck, who 
flung a pair of green and blue snakes across, and in an in- 
stant, like the arch of a rainbow in the clouds, a long bridge 
was seen to span the river. When the saint had crossed 
over both the god and snake bridge had disappeared. 

From an early legend a Shinto temple was said to have 
existed at Nik-ko in the third century but was removed 
to Utsonomyia. Although Shodo Shonin, the Buddhist 

[217] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

saint, is known to have built a temple here in 767, the real 
prominence of Nik-ko began in the early part of the sev- 
enteenth century, in May, 1617, when all that was mortal 
of the great leyasu was removed from Kunosan and laid 
away beneath the tall cryptomerias which ever since have 
so proudly guarded his tomb. 

The morning after our arrival, in company with a guide, 
we crossed the bridge and followed the broad avenue whijch 
ascends the mountain-side. 

"The imposing structure you see on the left is the choyo- 
kwan/' said the guide, **and was used in olden times for 
the reception and use of the daimios and members of the 
Tokugawa clan, who made annual visits to the tombs of 
their ancestors. It is now used as a residence for two 
princesses of the royal house. 

*' Opposite the choyokwan on the right of the avenue 
stands the enclosure known as the Rinnoji, where in former 
days stood the Hombo or Abbott's Palace. Within these 
grounds still remain the Hall of the Three Buddhas, a thou- 
sand-handed Kwannon on the right, Amida or Buddha in 
the centre, and a horse-headed Kwannon on the left. Close 
by stands a pillar of copper, known as the Sorinto, which 
was erected in 1643. It consists of a tall column, forty- 
two feet high, and is supposed to have the power of avert- 
ing the influence of evil spirits. The summit of the column 
is ornamented with four cups shaped like lotus flowers, 
from the petals of which are suspended small bells. 

* ' We will now ascend a number of broad stone steps bor- 
dered by giant cryptomerias and observe on the left the 
handsome five-storied pagoda, 104 feet high, resplendent 
in harmonious colors, from which no doubt the spirits of 
the dead watch the approach of worshipping pilgrims from 
afar. Let us enter the massive torii of granite, twenty- 
seven feet high, which was presented by the Daimio of 
Chikusen in 1618. 

**You will observe, on entering the portal of the first 

[218] 



NIK-KO AND LAKE CHUZENJI 

courtyard, the elaborately carved lions, the ■unicorn, and a 
mythological animal called the baku. The portal is 
guarded by two divas, who, with clenched fists and fierce 
countenances, threaten those who enter. The courtyard 
wall, originally colored in brilliant red, encloses three small 
buildings containing many personal articles belonging to 
the dead monarch, or used in religious ceremonies. A few 
yards away stands the stall of the sacred steed, which ca- 
parisoned in proper harness, awaits the call to be led 
forth for the use of his dead master. 

* ' It is upon the f agade of this small building that Hidari 
Jingori, the left-handed sculptor in wood, carved the blind, 
deaf, and dumb monkeys of Nik-ko, which until the mil- 
lennium comes will preach a code of moral ethics for the 
reproach of scandal-mongers throughout the broad uni- 
verse. Within this court also stands the beautifully dec- 
orated building known as the Ky-o-zo, which contains a 
complete collection of the Buddhist scriptures. Near by 
you will notice the holy-water cistern which is chiselled from 
a single piece of granite. 

*' Another flight of steps leads us to a second court which 
contains the tower of the great bell, whose sonorous tones 
reverberate for miles along the aisles and avenues of the 
wooded hills. Inside this court are the celebrated stone 
lions in the act of leaping, which were presented by 
lemitsu, the grandson of the great leyasu. Here also is lo- 
cated the Temple of Ya-ku-shi, the patron saint to To-go- 
shu, the synonym by which the great monarch was known 
in death. While the outside of this temple is simply col- 
ored black and red, its interior is a blaze of glory and said 
to have no parallel in Nik-ko. 

**0n each side of the fence which leads to the beautiful 
gate of Yomei-mon through which we enter the third court, 
are seen the fine medallions containing mountain birds in 
the upper ones and water-fowls in the lower. The white 
columns which support the roof of the gate are carved in 

[219] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

figures of marvellous beauty. The striped coats of the 
tigers which adorn their sides, are ingeniously represented 
by the veining of the wood. 

''Passing through this gate we enter the third court, 
where the priests perform their religious ceremonies for 
the dead and the priestesses render the sacred dances 
known as the Kagura for the pilgrims who contribute to 
the expenses of the place. 

"The Karamon or the Chinese gate gives access to the 
main shrines which are enclosed in a rich barricade of 
golden trellis, each side of which is fifty yards long. 
Within is the Hon don or oratory, lavishly decorated in the 
most superb carving, representing the best work of the 
Jingori period of the Tokugawa decorations. Over there 
observe the famous elephants and the celebrated sleeping 
cat of Nik-ko. Within the oratory we find a large, matted 
room with an ante-chamber at each end, the one on the right 
intended for the use of the shogun and elaborately deco- 
rated with superb pictures and four carved panels of 
phoenix birds, while the room on the opposite side is deco- 
rated with panels of eagles. The ceilings of this superb 
temple are decorated in square panels with gold dragons 
on a blue ground. 

''In the rear of the immense hall a stairway leads down 
to a stone chamber, the 'Holy of Holies,' into which those 
particularly interested can gain admittance for the sum 
of seven yen. This compartment is divided into three sub- 
chambers, which have special names indicative of the dis- 
tinctive religious ceremonies for which intended. They 
now contain articles of Japanese art, representing the 
acme of its workmanship and coloring. 

"We now pass to the tomb of leyasu, which is reached 
by passing out of the Karamon gate, and entering a moss- 
covered gallery leading up several long flights of stone 
steps, several hundred in all. Built after the tombs in 
Shiba and Ueno, it is pagoda-shaped and composed of 
light-colored bronze into which enters a large percentage 

[220] 



NIK-KO AND LAKE CHUZENJI 

of gold alloy. A stone table located in front of the tomb 
supports a large bronze stork, in whose beak rests an in- 
cense burner. The tomb is covered with a roof of bronze 
and enclosed in a balustrade of stone. 

**The thoughtful visitor who stands over the tomb of 
this remarkable character and considers the turbulent days 
in which he lived and the opposing forces against which 
he had to contend in building up an Empire, which endured 
for two centuries and a half in peace and harmony, should 
ungrudgingly grant that leyasu, the Tokugawa, belongs 
to that galaxy of international heroes which includes Na- 
poleon Bonaparte, Oliver Cromwell, and George Washing- 
ton, the Immortal Father of his Country, whose sacred 
ashes repose in the modest crypt at Mount Vernon. 

''Besides the tombs of leyasu and lemitsu, many other 
shrines and temples, formerly occupied by priest and no- 
ble, dot the mountain-side. In those days villas and tem- 
ples were occupied by powerful daimios who come no more, 
and Buddhist abbott, priest, and monk, long since replaced 
by the white-robed fraternity who advocate the 'Ways of 
the gods.' ** 

Nik-ko does not merely comprise the two small villages 
of Hachi-ishi, Ira-machi, and the sacred site of temple and 
tomb on the mountain-side, but encircles as well a region 
of transcendent beauty where towering peaks, gentle lakes, 
rugged canon and silvery cascade have conspired to create 
a veritable garden of Eden in these mountain ranges of the 
North. The traveller whose itinerary enables him to linger 
over the many beautiful outings which Nik-ko affords, will 
carry away mental pictures whose replicas can be repro- 
duced nowhere else in this land of enchanting beauty. 

Let him who has but a few days to tarry hasten at once 
to Lake Chuzenji, which lies encircled by a wooded plain 
at the foot of Mount Nan-tai-zan, 5,000 feet above the sea. 
The distance to this beautiful lake is eight long miles, al- 
though but three and a half from where the journey is con- 
tinued afoot. While it is customary to leave the ricksha at 

[221] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

Uma-gaeshi, a small hamlet lying at the base of the moun- 
tain and known as the ricksha stable, the entire distance 
may be made in chair, kago, or ricksha, by ladies or others 
not able to endure the exertion of the mountain road on 
foot. 

The aurora of early dawn was fading into the golden 
halo of the rising sun as we crossed the large bridge lead- 
ing from the Kanaya to the valley below, while the crisp 
air warned us of approaching autumn. The road winding 
up the valley clings to the banks of the stream and makes 
many elusive turns before reaching the rugged mountain 
gorge below the falls of Kegon. One mile above the Sacred 
Bridge, ranged in sitting posture, are the gray stone im- 
ages of fifty Amidas who in deathlike silence guard the 
tombs of the royal dead. 

Time and the hands of vandals have mutilated many 
of these ancient figures and several were swept away in 
the swirling current of the flood of 1902, which also carried 
away the Sacred Bridge. The largest of these images was 
carried as far as the lower end of Ima-ichi, where it now 
stands in pink bib, receiving the adorations of the simple- 
minded mountain folk who regard it as a protective deity. 

The road to Chuzenji on the morning of our visit was 
lined with bands of white-robed pilgrims, with sandalled 
feet and wide mushroom-shaped hats, each carrying staff 
and bundle, which signified that they had travelled from 
some remote section of the empire and were bound for the 
sacred temple on the summit of Mount Nan-tai-zan. There 
were also troupes of school children, who had been sent to 
Nik-ko by a paternal government to pay homage to the 
spirits of the illustrious dead, as well as to enjoy the mag- 
nificence of the mountain scenery. 

The national leaders regard the education of the children 
as one of their most important duties, realizing that the 
country's future success depends upon the coming gener- 
ations. The government is in a position to provide these 

[222] 



NIK-KO AND LAKE CHUZENJI 

annual excursions at little cost since it owns the railroads. 
The school children of both sexes are uniformed as a rule, 
the boys in dark blue or gray with caps of the same color, 
while the girls wear skirts of dark blue, plum, or maroon 
with a short kimono jacket to match. I was greatly im- 
pressed with the paternal care exercised, both by the nation 
as well as the teachers, although it is said to be a pleasure 
to teach Japanese children on account of their good man- 
ners and tractability. 

The patriotism instilled into the Japanese youthful minds 
accounts in a great measure for the success of the nation 
during the past wars and her prosperity in time of peace. 
For this reason strikes rarely occur and socialistic agita- 
tions are scarcely ever heard of. At every turn in the 
Great Empire captured cannon or other relics of war at- 
test the valor and courage of her sons. 

The grandeur and beauty of the mountain-sides which 
appeared before our vision as we travelled up the valley of 
the Daiya-gawa, will permit me to digress no longer from 
the enchantment of the scenery. We had arranged our 
visit to Nik-ko so as to arrive there after the frosts of an 
early autumn, and while this is considered the saddest sea- 
son of the year, yet, in its glorious shades of yellow and 
scarlet, it is incomparably the most glorious. 

The uniformity and smoothness of the foliage on the slop- 
ing sides of the mountain suggest the source from which 
the native artists secured the models of those exquisitely 
executed sketches from Nature done in cut velvet. Farther 
up the valley the autumnal changes become more marked 
and I doubt whether anywhere in the world a more artistic 
or brilliant coloring in the various shades of green, com- 
bined with yellow, red, and purple hues could be found. 
Above us to the right and left arose lofty towers, beetling 
cliffs, and fantastic peaks while from afar off on the moun- 
tain-sides drifted musical notes from dozens of silvery 
cascades and dazzling waterfalls. 

[223] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

Until we reached Uma-gaeshi, where we left our rick- 
shas to ascend the mountain trail, the road was paralleled 
by a little tramway which to the left passes on to the rich 
copper mines of Ashio. Large numbers of little cars drawn 
by black native oxen freighted with copper pigs, were 
passing down to Nik-ko, while others loaded with coke, coal, 
and other supplies were going back to the mines. The 
Ashio lodes are large and rich and for centuries have sup- 
plied the nation with this invaluable metal. The road from 
Nik-ko to Ashio crosses the Hoso-o Pass, and while rough 
and steep in many places, is practicable for rickshas. 

The view from the little tea-house of Misawa, which lies 
one mile above the ricksha stable, is wildly picturesque 
and affords a splendid view of the Hannya and Hodo cas- 
cades. Farther up the zigzag road along the mountain- 
side enchanting glimpses of the valley below are obtained, 
and of the rugged gorge which on the right lies under the 
protecting slope of Nan-tai-zan. 

The inexperienced traveller who elects to stop at the lit- 
tle tea-houses en route to enjoy the glorious prospect these 
sites afford must not be dismayed to find at every halt the 
inevitable tea-pot and tray of confections or cake, nor hes- 
itate to remunerate his willing host with the modest charge 
of five cents per guest, which n'est pas cher, for a glimpse 
anywhere along that delightful mountain-side. 

We finally reached the summit, and after a tramp of a 
half mile through an exquisite forest of majestic oak, birch, 
and maple, reached the lake which lies quietly nestling at 
the foot of Mount Nan-tai-zan, 4,700 feet above the sea. 
The lake is eight miles long by three wide and is surrounded 
by low, wooded hills whose foliage is specially beautiful 
during the early days of autumn. The government very 
wisely stocked the lake with salmon, salmon-trout, and the 
iwani, a species of white trout, in consequence of which 
rare sport awaits the disciple of Sir Izaak Walton during 
the fishing season. One half mile to the left, before reach- 

[224] 



NIK-KO AND LAKE CHUZENJI 

ing the lake, the magnificent Kegon Fall may be seen, from 
whose foaming crest the Daiya-gawa leaps 250 feet below, 
forming the most magnificent waterfall in the Empire. 

If the tourist be sturdy and not pressed for time, he may 
even proceed as far as Lake Yumoto which lies three miles 
beyond. The road to Yumoto from Chuzenji leads past 
the lake for three miles, then turns to the left and crosses 
the river a short distance below the Dragon's Head cas- 
cade. The coloring of the maples in this vicinity during 
October displays the richest and most gorgeous tints im- 
aginable, and the waters of the lake are discolored some- 
what by the sulphur which the hot waters so abundantly 
contain. The village of Yumoto is supplied with two good 
hotels, the Kanaya and the Namma, and excellent baths 
which possess wonderfully curative powers for rheuma- 
tism and allied affections. 

Besides outings to Chuzenji and Yumoto, there are many 
interesting and picturesque trips in the vicinity of Nik-ko, 
which would entertain the tourist for weeks, among which 
may be mentioned the ascent of Nan-tai-zan, a visit to the 
mist-falling and pitch-dark cascades, to Jak-ko, the copper 
mines of Ashito, and many other places which possess ex- 
cellent roads and equally beautiful environment. 

Time and tide, it is said, await no man, and the shadow 
from the tall trees which fringed the lake warned us that 
the hour of return had arrived. We had visited the far- 
famed Lake Chuzenji and enjoyed the marvels of its au- 
tumn scenery ; we had been to sacred Nan-tai-zan, had vis- 
ited the temples and tombs of Japan's illustrious dead, had 
at last seen Nik-ko, and as we turned our steps toward the 
mountain path which led down to Uma-gaeshi where our 
rickshas were waiting, we felt that from henceforth we 
could use the word ''magnificent." 

Before leaving Nik-ko visitors are advised to return by 
ricksha as far as Im-achi, a railroad station four miles up 
the road. Such an innovation affords an excellent oppor- 
15 [ 225 ] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

tunity to enjoy the grandeur of the avenue of crypto- 
merias, which is seen at its best that far. Trunks and 
hand-luggage, however, should be sent to the station in ad- 
vance and checked to their destination. The day after 
our visit to Lake Chuzenji, we turned our faces south- 
ward and caught the train at Im-achi after a delightful 
hour's ride through the great avenue. 



[226] 



CHAPTER XXIV 

BRIEF SKETCH OF JAPANESE HISTORY 

Sketch of Japanese History — Largely Mythological 
IN Character — The Ainos and Pit Dwellers — 
JiMMU Tenno, the First Mikado — Emperor Sujin, 
Father of Agriculture — Empress Jingo and Her 
Son Ojin — Prince Shotoku and Buddhism — Feudal- 
ism AND THE FUJIWARAS KlYOMORI, YOSHITOMO, AND 

YoRiTOMO — Tokiwa AND Her Son Yoshitsune YORI- 

TOMO, the First Shogun — Capital at Kamakura, 

DURING our return to Yokohama, the Major enter- 
tained us with the following brief outline of Japan's 
history. 

** Nothing definite was known of Japanese history until 
the fifth century of the Christian era, when the light of 
Chinese civilization began to filter through the country 
from Korea. The government, during the earlier centuries, 
must have been tribal in character and no doubt remained 
so long after that celebrated warrior and god, Jimmu 
Tenno, had crushed and rendered tributary the wild tribes 
he encountered during his famous march by land and sea, 
from the island of Kyushu to the Province of Yamato. 

"There can be little doubt that the accounts handed 
down before Christ are largely mythological in character 
and must be accepted as a mixture of fact with fiction. 
Navigators from the peninsula of Korea and the coast of 
China who during the preceding centuries had been driven 
by adverse winds to the unfriendly shores of Japan, re- 

[227] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

turned with fabulous stories of a race of gods who were con- 
stantly at war with the primitive people of the island. The 
Ainos, who originally occupied the greater portion of the 
mainland, had been gradually driven north by the invaders 
until little territory was left them beyond the island of 
Yezo, across the strait of Tsugura. 

''During these early centuries the country was partially 
controlled by a race of people who claimed divine origin 
and descent from the sun-goddess Amaterasu, the grand- 
mother of Ninigi, who according to the account of the Ko- 
jiki, had descended upon earth commissioned with the 
Sacred Mirror, Sacred Sword and Sacred Stone, the three 
sacred emblems of the Shinto religion. In accordance with 
the Kojiki, Jimmu Tenno subjugated the wild tribes of Ja- 
pan and, as the first Mikado, assumed control of the country 
in 660 B.C. It must be borne in mind that the art of writ- 
ing had not been introduced into Japan before the end of 
the third century, in consequence of which the scanty his- 
torical information pertaining to the country had been 
passed down from generation to generation through the 
memory of man. Apart from the Kojiki and Nihongi and 
a few fragmentary records compiled about 620 a.d. there 
are no historical writings from which to draw information 
on the early history of Japan. 

**I feel quite sure that the Japanese of to-day will not 
take it amiss if the historical student entertains a certain 
amount of incredulity as to the veracity of those highly 
interesting and remarkable records. There can be little 
doubt, however, but that they register events created 
through the fanciful invention of legend and tradition, 
which like the folklore of every race, contain many germs 
of truth. 

*' Jimmu Tenno, the first earthly Mikado, who was re- 
ported to have appeared on the scene 660 e.g., is regarded 
by many historians as a great Mongolian conqueror who 
invaded the country during the mythical age; others im- 
agine him a fierce and adventuresome Malayan leader who 

[228] 



SKETCH OF JAPANESE HISTORY 

arrived with the first wave of emigration from the South 
Sea Islands at an opportune moment to conquer the numer- 
ous discordant tribes and unify the nation. Jimmu started 
on his triumphal tour of conquest from the island of Kyu- 
shu, in the neighborhood of Mount Kirishima, upon which 
his divine grandfather Ninigi descended and founded his 
capital. After many conflicts with the wild tribes he en- 
countered along the shores of the Inland Sea, he landed 
near the site of Osaka and established his capital in the 
Province of Yamato where he finally died and was buried 
at the age of 137 years. He is known as the 'Cyrus of 
Japan' and is rightfully regarded as the founder of the 
present dynasty. 

''From the reign of Jimmu we will pass on down to Em- 
peror Sujin, who is known as the father of Japanese agri- 
culture and occupied the throne in 30 B.C. This wise ruler 
built reservoirs for the collection of water for the irrigation 
of rice, encouraged in every way the growing industries 
of the country and for the first time levied taxes for the 
support of the government. At the age of 141 and after 
a reign of ninety-nine years, he turned the sceptre over 
to his son Sujin who is known as the merciful Emperor. 
At the time of his accession to the throne the cruel custom 
of burying alive members of the deceased Emperor's fam- 
ily, retainers, servants, horses, and other animals was in ex- 
istence. Pits were dug around the tomb and the unfortu- 
nates were buried in the upright position, leaving nothing 
out except the head. It is said that the Emperor was so 
afflicted by the agonizing cries of those buried with his 
father, which were kept up day and night until they died, 
that he ordered in future the substitution of clay figures. 
This mortuary custom was continued at the burial of the 
illustrious dead as late as 700 a.d. and to-day, in Korea, 
heroic figures in marble or stone surround the entrance to 
the tomb of the recently murdered Empress. The burial 
of the royal household with the dead Emperor must have 
been customary with the Chinese also in ancient times and 

[229] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

was changed later to the heroic figures in stone still to be 
seen at the entrance of the Ming tombs near Peking. 

*' Among the many acts of this remarkable ruler none 
have affected the Japanese people and government more 
than the foundation of the sacred temple of Ise which is 
located in the town of Yamada, province of Ise. This an- 
cient Shinto temple contains that holy relic, the Sacred 
Mirror, into which the sun-goddess Amaterasu gazed when 
lured from her cave of darkness where she had hidden her- 
self on account of the prank of her mischievous brother 
Susa-no-o. 

' ' From the point of antiquity and sanctity the holy tem- 
ple of Ise among the Japanese equals in veneration the 
sentiment of the Catholic world for Saint Peter ^s at Rome. 
The tourist who visits Ise will be disappointed, however, 
on account of the exceeding plainness of the temple, and, 
besides, will not be permitted to penetrate beyond the first 
enclosure, the interior being exclusively reserved for the 
Imperial family, priests, and important Japanese person- 
ages. It is said that Admiral Togo visited this temple, 
after his successes against the Russians during the recent 
war, to worship at the shrine of the Mikado 's ancestors and 
other Japanese deities, before returning to Tokio to re- 
ceive the great ovation prepared for him by his fellow coun- 
trymen. Before concluding with Sujin, credit should be 
given him for the introduction of oranges into Japan, 
brought from China under his directions. 

* * Sujin was succeeded by his son Keiko 71 a.d., the father 
of the great Yamato-dake, who to this day is held as a hero 
of romance and the subject of song. He was sent to the 
island of Kyushu to punish a band of fierce and rebellious 
bandits led by two brothers of great renown. Yamato- 
dake entered their camp in the disguise of a young woman 
and on account of his personal beauty quickly won their 
admiration. During the entertainment of the evening 
which followed, and while the feast was at its height, the 

[230] 



SKETCH OF JAPANESE HISTORY 

young prince drew from beneath the folds of his dress a 
short sword and slew them both. 

**The accomplishment of this gallant feat quickly added 
recruits to his banners and enabled him to subdue the re- 
bellious chieftains in the districts about the straits of Shi- 
monoseki and finally to wage successful war against the 
fierce Ainos of the North. During his brief career Yamato- 
dake settled the disturbances throughout the land and re- 
stored peace to his father's kingdom. While en route 
to the sacred shrine of Ise to offer thanks to the gods for 
his many successes, he was overtaken by a fatal disease 
and died at the age of thirty-two. 

**We will now pass down to Emperor Chuai, the husband 
of that remarkable woman, Jingo Kogo, who assumed the 
reins of government after the death of the Emperor, 200 
A.D., as regent and crushed the rebellion on the island of 
Kyushu which was fiercely burning at that critical time. 
She also brought to terms the King of Korea after a vigor- 
ous campaign of three years, during which period she car- 
ried in her womb her son Ojin, deified later by the Shinto 
religion as Hachiman, the Great God of War. 

**Ojin ruled the country for forty years and bequeathed 
the throne to his son Nintoku, who is altogether worthy of 
mention in this brief outline for the reason that he is re- 
membered by the Japanese of to-day for his self-abnegation 
and love of his people. So much was he affected by the 
poverty of his subjects, it is said, that he suspended all 
taxes for such a long period that his income became insuf- 
ficient to repair the roof under which he lived and he was 
thus unable to protect himself and family against storms 
and inclement weather. 

**From the reign of Nintoku down to the sixth century 
nothing of special importance occurred, until Buddhism 
made its appearance. During the reign of Keitai Tenno, 
A.D. 552, an ambassador from Korea presented a statue of 
Buddha to the Emperor. From this date numbers of Bud- 

[ 231 ] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

clliist priests, nuns, diviners, and workmen educated in 
building temples crossed over from Korea to Japan. 

*'In 593 the coronation of the Empress Suiko was cele- 
brated and marks the first instance in the history of Japan 
in which a woman wore the crown. It was during her 
reign that the great teacher, Shotoku Taishi, lived; he is 
held as the founder and promoter of Buddhism in Japan, 
which religious cult subsequently exerted such a profound 
influence on the history and civilization of the country. 
The introduction of Buddhism became the subject of great 
discussion and the cause of two strong and bitter factions, 
the adherents of the old religion of Shintoism and the pros- 
elytes to the new cult. 

**The year following the death of Shotoku, 622 a.d., a 
census of Buddhism was made and there were found to be 
forty-six temples and 1,385 priests and nuns. Many of the 
powerful families vied with one another in building hand- 
some temples at their own expense. The religion brought 
with it culture, education, and literature, which changed 
and modified many of the old characteristics of the people 
and led to the new civilization. A university, schools, and 
the industrial arts followed; books on almanac-making, as- 
tronomy, geography, the art of writing Chinese charac- 
ters, the practice of composition, study of the Chinese 
classics and history rapidly followed one another, so much 
so that the Japanese were considered a few centuries later 
as having descended from the Chinese. 

''Life at court during that period was so encompassed 
with debauchery and licentiousness under the new regime, 
that it led to effeminacy on the part of the Mikados and 
the organization and growth of powerful military families 
who later ruled the kingdom. Surrounded by an entour- 
age of priests, nuns, and gorgeous temples, they had become 
too sacred to participate in the ordinary affairs of the gov- 
ernment, hence the assistance of powerful militant families 
was called in to crush the common enemy and fight the 
battles of the country. It was under these conditions, in 

[ 232 ] 



SKETCH OF JAPANESE HISTORY 

668 A.D., that the powerful Fujiwara family sprang into 
existence and eventually controlled the empire from that 
period until the middle of the eleventh century. 

''The feudal system which grew into prominence under 
these conditions was destined to play a very prominent 
part in the affairs of the nation for the next ten centuries. 
In the year 880 a.d. the office of hwambaku or generalissimo 
was created for the family of the Fujiwara which had be- 
come so powerful in the affairs of the government that it 
dictated the appointment and abdication of the Mikados. 
Moreover wives for the Mikados and royal princes were 
for generations invariably taken from this ruling family 
into whose hands also had fallen all of the offices of the 
court. Many of the Mikados during this time were mere 
babes in arms, who before arrival at the age of adolescence 
were compelled to abdicate in order to make way for other 
child-emperors, who likewise could be influenced and set 
aside at will when the time arrived. 

* ' The same influences which had resulted in a line of de- 
bauched and imbecile rulers finally affected the house of 
Fujiwara, so that in the end it fell a victim to the families 
of the Taira and Minamoto which had arisen to great power 
at the end of the eleventh century. Bitter hostility fre- 
quently arose among the ruling families, some of whom had 
espoused the new religious cult while others remained faith- 
ful to the faith of their fathers and the * * ways of the gods, ' ' 
as Shintoism was called. 

''From now on until the restoration the government of 
the Mikado simply became a shadow and finally, on account 
of his divinity he was considered too sacred to be seen by 
human eye. Thus for centuries he remained immured in 
the walls of his palace at Nara or Kioto and his face was 
even screened from the domestics and members of his court. 
As late as 1868 the various embassies sent annually to Ki- 
oto from the ruling shogun were unable to see more than 
his slippered feet from behind the curtain of his throne. 

** Other families of historical importance rose between 

[233] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

the eighth and twelfth centuries, among whom were the 
Tachibanas and Sugawaras. The most noted representa- 
tive of the latter was Michizane, 890 a.d., who became noted 
as the adviser and councillor to the Mikados Uda and 
Daigo. He adopted literature as a profession and became a 
brilliant scholar in Chinese classics and learning. Kwam- 
baku Tokihara, the leading member of the Fujiwara fam- 
ily, became jealous of his prominence, so sent him to 
Dazaifu in the island of Kyushu as viceroy, which appoint- 
ment was regarded as a political banishment. He died 
there in 903 a.d., and was subsequently canonized under 
the name of Ten j in by the Shintos. Michizane is held sa- 
cred to-day by the nation as the patron saint of the literary 
guild. 

** Japan had now become a feudal camp and the govern- 
ment was controlled by any chieftain who could wield the 
greatest power. We have now arrived at that most inter- 
esting period of Japanese history, namely the creation of 
the shogunate, which occurred in 1190. After the down- 
fall of the Fujiwaras, the military class became an 
important part of the population and those who had an 
aptitude for arms gradually became distinct from the agri- 
cultural classes under the profession of the samurai. The 
struggles between the Tairas and Fujiwaras after the down- 
fall of the latter, were transferred to the Minamotos and 
kept the country in a state of warfare for more than a hun- 
dred years. During this period gallant leaders sprang up 
from both these families and thus for a century or more 
the country was alternately ruled by members of these two 
clans. 

"At this time the Mikados had the power to appoint 
their successors and were allowed to name any of the royal 
princes, provided the appointment was acceptable to the 
Kwambaku. On his death-bed, 1155 a.d., the Emperor 
Konoe selected his brother Go-Shirakawa, who was not tho 
lineal heir to the throne, and this led to a sanguinary and 
bitter conflict known as the war of the red and white ban- 

[234] 



SKETCH OF JAPANESE HISTORY 

ners. The Taira chieftain, Kiyomori, espoused the cause 
of Go-Shirakawa, while the Minamoto family championed 
the cause of the son of Shutoku who was the rightful heir. 
As a result of these contending factions a battle was fought 
in 1156 A.D., resulting in a complete victory for Kiyomori. 

^'The victorious Taira chieftain now became very over- 
bearing and began a career of nepotism which it is said ex- 
ceeded that of the Fujiwara family. He at once banished 
the retired Emperor Shutoku, his son and all the promi- 
nent members of the Minamoto family and through his 
harsh treatment generally offended those who had assisted 
in vanquishing his enemies. The conduct and arrogance 
of Kiyomori grew so unbearable, as his power and author- 
ity increased, that he soon became the subject of a 
conspiracy among his best friends. 

**Yoshitomo of the Minamoto clan conspired with all the 
members of his family and the declining Fujiwaras to over- 
throw the arrogant Taira, but failed in his plans and fled 
to escape death. Besides Yoritomo, by his legal wife, Yo- 
shitomo had three sons by a concubine named Tokiwa, a 
woman of great beauty and the mother of that celebrated 
hero Yoshitsune. In order to escape the vengeance of the 
implacable and cruel Kiyomori who desired to destroy her 
children because they were the sons of Yoshitomo, she 
fled through a snowstorm at night carrying the infant 
Yoshitsune in her arms, while the other two pattered along 
at her side. The incident has been recorded in poetry and 
song for ages and has been a favorite subject for native 
artists of the romantic school. 

* ' Several of the sons of Yoshitomo were put to death, but 
the life of that wonderful genius, soldier, and ruler, Yori- 
tomo, who was destined to become the first shogun of Ja- 
pan, was saved by the mother-in-law of Kiyomori and placed 
in the charge of Hojo-Tokimasa, who became the head of 
the great Hojo family which ruled Japan for one and a 
third centuries after the death of Yoritomo. 

*' During the entire shogunate, which began in 1192 and 

[235] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

continued until 1868, the Mikado was acknowledged as the 
theoretical head of the government and descendant of the 
sun-goddess. There never was any question as to which 
was the real Emperor, the ]\Iikado or the shogun, although 
the former for years was an infant in arms, a shadow of a 
king, amid an entourage of women and priests and liable 
at any time to be set aside by the shogun-dictator and later 
the Hojo regents, whenever they considered it in their inter- 
est to do so. 

**We have noted that the beautiful Tokiwa with the 
three sons of Yoshitomo fled to escape the wrath of the 
tyrant Kwambaku Kiyomori who intended to put him to 
death. The great historical interest which centres around 
Yoshitsune, her youngest boy, compels me to refer to her 
again. During her flight and while reduced to the greatest 
destitution she met a band of the Taira forces from whom 
she learned that her mother was held as a hostage by Kiy- 
omori. A filial sense of duty compelled her to return at 
once and beg mercy at the hands of the Kwambaku, rely- 
ing upon her beauty and forlorn condition to arouse his 
sympathetic interest and save both mother and children. 
Softened by her beauty and at the same time responding 
to the favorable advice of his court, Kiyomori set her 
mother at liberty, sent her sons to various monasteries for 
instruction and accepted Tokiwa as a member of his harem. 

' ' Yoshitsune spent many years in study and warfare and 
finally developed into a gallant and accomplished soldier, 
who played the principal part in many of the battles which 
occurred during the leadership of his half-brother, Yori- 
tomo, and to-day stands in the hearts of his countrjTuen 
as one of their greatest national heroes. The closing inci- 
dents connected with the life of the relentless tyrant Kwam- 
baku Kiyomori are filled with undying historical interest 
and associated with numerous sanguinary conflicts in which 
many men of strong and determined character took part. 
On the death of Yoshitomo, his son, Yoritomo, by his legal 
wife, had been banished to Izu and committed to the care 

[236] 



SKETCH OF JAPANESE HISTORY 

or the Taira clan. On coming of age Yoritomo married 
the daughter of Tokimasa, the leader of the great Hojo 
family which, as has been stated before, usurped the power 
of the throne as regents after his death and ruled the coun- 
try until its downfall in 1333 through the Ashikagas." 



[237] 



CHAPTER XXV 

BRIEF SKETCH OF JAPANESE HISTORY- 
CONTINUED 

The Tairas and Minamotos — Yoshitsune and Mune- 
MORi — The Naval Engagement of Dan-no-ura — The 
Dual Government — Death op Yoritomo — Eleva- 
tion OP the Ho jo Family — Depeat op Kublai Khan 
— Masashige and Nitta Yoshisada — The Ashikaga 
Family — The Introduction op Nobunaga, Hideyoshi, 
AND Ieyasu — The Tokugawa Dynasty — Arrival op 
Commodore Perry — First Treaty with the United 
States — Surrender op Feudalism and the Satsuma 
Rebellion — War with China and Acquisition op For- 
mosa. 

WE have now arrived at that period of Japanese 
history *when knighthood was in flower/ and 
feudal lords ruled supreme. Since the legendary days of 
Jimmu Tenno the Japanese people has been a race of warri- 
ors and accustomed to deadly conflict on untold fields of 
sanguinary battle. For two thousand years the military 
spirit has been inbred into their very marrow and taught 
by heroic mothers from the moment they, were able to lisp 
the sacred name of Mikado. For ages the object of life 
was to die for Dai-Nippon and to join the heavenly host 
of warriors whose martial and protective spirits hovered 
over their sacred soil. The spirit of national justice, a 
sense of right and wrong, was beginning to crystallize 
among the people and Kiyomori began to realize that he 
had far exceeded his prerogative as Kwambaku and ruler. 

[238] 



SKETCH OF JAPANESE HISTORY 

Headed by Yoritomo and supported by the powerful Hojo 
family in his declining years, he saw the war clouds rising 
in the East and West and on his death-bed warned his 
councillors against the growing strength of the young 
Minamoto chief. His last words before expiring, it is said, 
expressed the regret that he had not seen the head of Yor- 
itomo, that formidable spirit who was destined to end 
forever the day of Taira leadership. 

''It would be impossible in this brief sketch to record 
the many battles which occurred before Yoritomo suc- 
ceeded in overcoming the Taira forces and establishing 
himself firmly on the throne as shogun or Emperor, as erro- 
neously called. On the death of Kiyomori his son Mune- 
mori became head of the Taira clan and assembled his 
forces against Yoritomo, the head of the Minamotos. With 
the assistance of his half-brother, Yoshitsune, and cousin, 
Yoshinaka, both of whom commanded large armies, Yori- 
tomo had little difficulty in overcoming the forces of Mune- 
mori and in the succeeding battles literally swept the once 
powerful Taira family off the face of the earth. In an 
engagement on the Nakasendo Road not far from Kioto 
the Taira army under Munemori was completely defeated 
and, with the reigning Mikado Antoku and entire court, 
crossed over to the neighboring island of Shikoku. 

*' Curiously enough Yoshinaka, who had been very suc- 
cessful in waging war against Munemori, imagined himself 
more powerful than his leader Yoritomo and proceeded 
to Kioto where he declared himself shogun. Yoshitsune, 
the brilliant soldier and half-brother to Yoritomo, was 
sent in haste to Kioto to punish Yoshinaka for his 
audacity and disloyalty, and in a battle near Lake Biwa 
administered to that refractory chief a most overwhelming 
defeat which resulted in his committing hara-kiri. 

''Yoshitsune followed up his successes by crossing over 
the Inland Sea in order to destroy the remaining forces 
of Munemori who had established the throne of the Mikado 
in the province of Sanuki. On hearing of the approaching 

[239] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

army of Yoshitsune, who had embarked in 700 junks, Miine- 
mori endeavored to escape in his fleet of 500 junks and pro- 
ceeded with all haste through the Inland Sea towards the 
island of Kyushu. Unfortunately he was overtaken at 
Dan-no-ura, near the village of Shimonoseki, in the narrow 
straits between Kyushu and the mainland, where in a naval 
engagement which followed, the entire fleet of Munemori 
was destroyed and every one put to death or swallowed up 
in the waters of the Inland Sea. Having vanquished his 
enemies and established peace once more Yoritomo pro- 
ceeded to Kamakura, where he established his capital and 
organized the feudal system which prevailed in Japan un- 
til the year 1868. 

*'With Yoritomo, in 1192, begins the dual government 
of Japan which continued with certain modifications until 
the resignation of Yoshinobu, the last of the Tokugawa 
shoguns, in 1868. In addition to Yoritomo 's great genius 
as a military leader he was a man of unusual intelligence 
and administrative ability. Under his rulership the Japa- 
nese people and government made tremendous advances 
in the arts and sciences, agriculture and commerce. He 
made many reforms in the administration of the govern- 
ment, levied taxes for the support of the army, established 
courts of justice and forbade the monks and priests, who 
had become powerful and arrogant, to bear arms and se- 
cured peace for the first time in centuries. 

''Yoritomo died, in the fifty-third year of his age, in 
1198 as the result of a fall from his horse, while inspecting 
the construction of a bridge over the Sagami River. Be- 
fore his death he aspired to the construction of the Dai 
Butsu at Kamakura, and began the subscription for that 
unparalleled work of art which, unprotected for centuries 
under the blue canopy of heaven, has entranced the thou- 
sands of visitors who annually assemble there to gaze into 
that wonderful face, which illustrates the spiritual peace 
that comes from perfect knowledge and subjugation of all 
passions. Unfortunately for the line of Yoritomo his two 

[240] 



SKETCH OF JAPANESE HISTORY 

sons, Yoriiji and Sanetomo, did not hold the shogunate 
long after the death of their father. The elder was re- 
quired to abdicate by his powerful grandfather, Hojo 
Tokimasa, and was later assassinated. Sanetomo now suc- 
ceeded to the shogunate but was killed by his nephew Ichi- 
man, the son of Yoriiji, who held him responsible for his 
father's death, and thus ended forever the family of one 
of the greatest natural-born leaders and soldiers Japan 
ever produced. 

**The Hojo family now became elevated to its highest 
pinnacle of power and ruled with a rod of iron the juvenile 
shoguns appointed to that position. The shoguns during 
this time were the sons of the Mikados or royal princes sent 
from Kioto and had practically nothing to do with the gov- 
ernment. The situation was as unique as it was absurd. 
The Hojos, who never aspired to the position of shogun, 
controlled both the shogun court at Kamakura and the Mi- 
kado 's court at Kioto, and appointed or removed the in- 
cumbents of these two high offices at will. 

** About this time Kublai Khan, who had conquered the 
Lung djTQasty in China, sent ambassadors to Japan de- 
manding subjugation of the country. Several embassies 
were received and indignantly dismissed. In answer to 
the second or third embassies their heads were returned as 
reply, whereupon Kublai Khan sent an army of 100,000 
men which was landed on the coast of Kyushu near the 
seaport town of Daizafui. Tokimune with a large land and 
naval force was sent to drive the invaders from the shore, 
and with the timely assistance of a typhoon which de- 
stroyed the enemy's fleet, succeeded in sealing the doom of 
the Mongolian army. 

**The Hojos as regents controlled the government of 
Japan from 1199, the date of Yoritomo's death, until 1333, 
at which time the family had lost all power through de- 
bauchery and effeminacy. A most singular condition of 
affairs now began to exist; even children were appointed 
to the position of regent, while the real power and auton- 
l& [ 241 ] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

omy of the government was controlled by unscrupulous 
and plotting menials. And thus during the decadent 
period of the Ho jo family we find practically three nom- 
inal heads to the government, the Mikado who had become 
the shadow king and head of the spiritual government, 
the shogun now represented by some irresponsible prince- 
ling of the royal family, and the child-regent, the tool 
of the court inferiors. 

*'It is not to be wondered at therefore that conspiracies 
were organized to overthrow the declining Hojo family. 
Kusunoki Masashige and Nitta Yoshisada, two great gen- 
erals and patriots held in grateful memory by a patriotic 
country to-day, raised armies and marched against the Hojo 
forces which were strongly intrenched at the capital of 
Kamakura. After a desperate battle which raged for days 
around the ancient capital, the rebellious forces won the 
day and put down forever the power of the Hojos who 
had committed the unpardonable crime of making war 
against the Imperial standard. 

''In dispensing the gifts of the forfeited fiefs to the vic- 
torious leaders the new Mikado unwittingly bestowed larger 
favors on the Ashikaga family than on the families of 
Kusonoki and Nitta and, moreover, the Ashikagas charged 
Nitta with disloyalty to the Mikado. These causes led to 
feuds and finally a battle in which both families of the 
Kusonoki and Nitta were vanquished and the Ashikagas 
left in uninterrupted control. During these disturbances, 
1336, there were two ruling dynasties of Mikados, known 
as the Northern and Southern. The Southern dynasty 
lasted until 1374, when it terminated by reason of the ab- 
dication of the Mikado. 

''The Ashikaga family ruled until 1562, by which time 
like their predecessors they had grown effeminate through 
licentious living. Many of their representatives in the 
course of their control had been men of distinguished 
character and ability, however, and had left their impress 
on the age. A number of them were men of elegance and 

[242] 



SKETCH OF JAPANESE HISTORY 

culture and patrons of painting and literature. They 
encouraged the art of lacquer and the manufacture of por- 
celain and built temples and palaces. Ashikaga Yoshi- 
mitsu, who was shogun from 1368 to 1393, built the 
Buddhist monastery of Kin-ka-kuji and the golden pavilion 
near Kioto. Another one of the Ashikagas instituted the 
curious custom of the tea ceremonies which became the 
fashionable craze at court for centuries. The last Ashi- 
kaga shogun was deposed in 1573 by Nobunaga who under- 
took the duties of the position without the title, which re- 
mained vacant until that great military character appeared 
upon the scene, Hideyoshi, the Napoleon of 'Japan. 

**In the discussion of the establishment of Komanism 
in Japan and persecutions of Christianity which occurs 
in a previous chapter, the three great military characters 
of the end of the fifteenth century and beginning of the 
sixteenth, namely, Nobunaga, leyasu, and Hideyoshi have 
been described, as well as the historical points of interest 
during that time. It will be remembered that Hideyoshi 
in 1587 issued an edict ordering that all religious teachers 
should leave Japan on learning of the plots and intrigues 
of the Jesuit priests to win over the people with a view to 
the conquest of the country by the Portuguese; also that 
in 1606 leyasu again called attention to Hideyoshi 's pre- 
vious orders on the subject which had not been obeyed, 
and again in 1614 issued a more stringent one himself in 
which he directed not only that all of the Catholic priests 
and teachers should leave Japan, but that all of their 
churches should be destroyed and the native proselytes 
compelled to recant under pain of death. 

"leyasu did not live long enough to see this terrible 
and far-reaching order carried out for he died in 1616, but 
his grandson and successor, lemitsu, not only carried out 
his grandfather's instructions with the most cruel and 
brutal thoroughness but sealed the country completely from 
the outside world for two centuries and a half, during 
which period there was no intercourse whatever with any 

[243] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

foreign nation except with the Chinese and Dutch traders, 
who were allowed to enter the harbor of Nagasaki, under 
guard and to remain there practically as commercial prison- 
ers. From the death of leyasu, 1616, until the arrival of 
Commodore Perry, 1853, Japan enjoyed under the Toku- 
gawa shogunate an interval of profound peace. Few of 
the descendants of leyasu impressed themselves on the 
country or left marks of their administration. lemitsu, 
the third Tokugawa shogun, required the daimios to spend 
six months of the year in the capital of Yedo and to leave 
their wives as hostages during the remaining six months 
of absence. Japan, during this period, reached the acme of 
her greatness in the ways of the arts, sciences, and liter- 
ature. Metal workers in bronze, steel, and iron excelled, 
and the equal of tempered steel blades has never been 
reached since then. 

*'From the beginning of the peace established by the 
Tokugawas, 1600, the population increased with great ra- 
pidity and reached its maximum about 1700. From that 
time the population remained in statu quo or decreased. 
This condition resulted from a closure of the country to 
foreigners, pestilential diseases such as small-pox, dysen- 
tery, typhus-fever, and other contagious diseases, and earth- 
quakes, fires, and floods. It is said that during some years 
the population decreased from two to one million souls. 
It is recorded that in 1792 the population was 26,891,441 
while in 1846 it was only 24,907,625. In 1732 the register 
showed a population of 26,621,816, which indicates that 
the population remained stationary during a century. 

*' Under the Tokugawa dynasty the daimios were the 
territorial lords or barons and corresponded to the knights 
or baronets of English history during the Middle Ages. 
They varied in personal influence, military strength, and 
territorial domain and were assessed by the central gov- 
ernment in proportion to their power and landed posses- 
sions. The daimios were divided into three classes, namely : 
lords of provinces, lords of smaller districts, and lords of 

[244] 



SKETCH OF JAPANESE HISTORY 

castles, never at any time exceeding more than three hun- 
dred in number. Besides the daimios, there was an in- 
ferior class of nobility known as hatamoto, which may be 
classed with the landed gentry of England. Of this class 
there were about 2,000. There was still a lower class of 
gentry and inferior to the hatamoto, kuown as the gokenin, 
who numbered about 5,000 and occupied the subordinate 
positions. Immediately below the gokenin came the samu- 
rai, the fighting men and retainers of the daimios. Below 
the samurai followed, in the order given, the farmers, arti- 
sans, and merchants, and still a fourth class of social out- 
casts and pariahs, known as etas. 

*'AVhen Commodore Perry arrived in the Bay of Yedo 
in 1853 he found the government tottering and almost on 
the point of dissolution. The principal causes which had 
led to this condition resulted from the attitude assumed 
against foreign nations. By its exclusive policy Japan 
had lost in the race of material progress and industrial 
development with other countries, not only in the economics 
of everyday life, but in the organization and armament of 
their army and navy. "While other nations were using 
modern firearms they were still adhering to bows, arrows, 
spears, and matchlock. 

* ' The magnitude assumed by the whale fishery of the Pa- 
cific in which the United States was interested, the open- 
ing of China to foreign trade on account of the opium war, 
and the development of California through the discovery of 
gold, made a treaty with Japan obligatory in order to se- 
cure coal from their rich coal deposits for use of our ves- 
sels engaged in Oriental commerce. Many Europeans 
were also desirous of making treaties with Japan and had 
for some years been knocking at her doors in vain. Com- 
modore Perry was accompanied by several ships of war 
when he first arrived in the harbor of Yedo and by ten 
when he returned the following year, besides a tremendous 
cargo of presents for the Mikado and shogun in the way 
of modern agricultural and mechanical inventions among 

[245] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

which was a railroad engine and enough rail to lay a road 
track a mile long. 

''After the presentation of President Fillmore's message, 
the shogun sent a round-robin to all the powerful daimios 
asking an expression of opinion regarding the treaty, re- 
ceiving in return, as a rule, opinions opposing such action. 
In spite of this opposition and mainly through the influ- 
ence of that far-seeing and intelligent adviser, Li Kamon- 
no-Kami, subsequently assassinated on account of his lib- 
eral views, the treaty was signed in March, 1854, causing 
the most intense excitement throughout the land. The 
dormant feeling of national hatred and antipathy was 
lighted up anew and thousands of samurai flocked to Yedo 
to offer their services against the Western barbarians. In 
making the treaty a bitter opposition against the shogun 
was aroused amongst the adherents of the Imperial throne 
and hundreds of the armed leaders who desired Japan for 
the Japanese only, including the powerful lords of Sat- 
suma, Choshu, Hizen, Tosa, and Mito. 

*'The first treaty granted the opening of the port of 
Shimoda at once, and of Hakodate a year later. Great 
Britain, France, Russia, and the Netherlands followed suit 
and also applied for treaties. Two strong political parties, 
the pros and cons, arose in Japan as a result of the open 
door, immediately followed by great disorder and blood- 
shed. Many indignities were heaped upon the foreign ele- 
ment, sent to represent the foreign governments, and many 
of them were dangerously wounded or killed. Samurai 
became ronin in order to take a hand in these assassina- 
tions without involving their lords. Parties arose against 
the shogun and his councillors and sedition prevailed 
throughout the land. It was during the years 1867 and 
1868 that the revolution occurred, as a result of which the 
Mikado was restored to the actual throne after the lapse of 
700 years. 

"Now followed the surrender of feudalism and the large 
domains of the daimios, the Europeanizing of Japan, the 

[246] 



SKETCH OF JAPANESE HISTORY 

opening of the mint, the building of railways, the estab- 
lishment of telegraphic communication, the introduction 
of vaccination, the European calendar and dress, photog- 
raphy, meat eating, the end of the persecution of the Chris- 
tians, the organization of steamship companies, of the 
Bourse and Chamber of Commerce, and of the educational 
system. Later occurred the Higo and Satsuma rebellions 
of 1876 and 1877, annexation of the Loochoos, the crea- 
tion of a titled aristocracy, the organization of a consti- 
tutional government, the construction of a modern fleet, 
the organization of an army on the model of Germany, the 
war with China in 1894r-5 and Boxer Expedition of 1900. 

' ' Before entering upon the details of the war with China, 
it is necessary to review in part Japan's relations with 
Korea during the past hundred years. As far back as the 
seventeenth century, Korea sent tributary missions annu- 
ally both to China and Japan, and in a measure recognized 
the suzerainty of both these nations. 

**From an early date in the seventies until war was de- 
clared in 1894 both China and Japan were at liberty to 
keep troops in the Hermit Kingdom under the provisions 
of the Tientsin Convention, which permitted these two na- 
tions to send armed forces to Korea whenever the security 
of the country or its interests demanded such intervention. 
Two strong political parties existed in Korea at this time, 
the Conservatives and the Progressives, the former being 
pro-Chinese, while the latter was pro-Japanese. 

"In the year 1893 the Conservative Party requested 
troops from China in order to suppress a religious insur- 
rection which had arisen. Before sending these forces, 
however, and in compliance with the provisions of the Tien- 
tsin Convention, China informed Japan of her intentions 
but unfortunately designated Korea as her protectorate. 
This undiplomatic insinuation proved to be the casus belli, 
for without further ado Japan sent troops to Korea in 
July, 1894, and not only took possession of the capital city, 
Seoul, but of the royal palace and the king as well. 

[247] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

"\^av was declared August 1, although Captain Togo, 
afterwards the famous Admiral, in accordance with the 
Japanese policy sank the Chinese ship Koiv-Shing on July 
25, a week before its declaration. Every one prognosti- 
cated at the time that the Japanese pygmies would be swept 
off the face of the earth by the Sleeping Giant across the 
Yellow Sea, and that the land of the Kising Sun henceforth 
would become tributary to the Flowery Kingdom. On the 
same day that Togo sank the Chinese transport Kow-Shing, 
General Oshima sallied forth from Seoul and confronted 
the Chinese troops in a strongly fortified position near 
Asan where he gained a signal victory February 28. A 
few weeks later, on historic grounds near Ping-Yang, Sep- 
tember 15, the Japanese forces broke up the Chinese con- 
tingent assembled there and drove them beyond the Yalu. 

' ' It was on the seventeenth of September, two days later, 
that the great naval engagement occurred which estab- 
lished the supremacy of Japan as a naval power in 
the Far East. The Chinese, under Admiral Ting, lined up 
with ten vessels near Haiyang Island against the Japanese, 
under Admiral Ito, with a flying squadron of four cruisers, 
and a main squadron of inferior strength and steaming 
power. By superior seamanship and tactics the Japanese 
outmanoeuvred the Chinese, broke up their formation and 
succeeded in dispersing their fleet after the latter had lost 
four ships besides one driven ashore. The Japanese lost 
no vessels, although the admiral's flagship was severely 
injured. This conflict settled future naval engagements 
for that war and left the high seas under Japanese control. 

* ' The land tactics pursued by the Japanese after crossing 
the Yalu in 1891-5 were almost identical with those em- 
ployed against the Russians in 1904-5. A portion of the 
army was sent north, but rested before reaching Mukden 
to await the results of the siege of Port Arthur which fell 
after a few days' fighting. The war was finally closed 
after the capture by the Japanese of Wei-hai-wei, where 
the majority of the Chinese fleet had taken refuge. Seeing 

[248] 



SKETCH OF JAPANESE HISTORY 

that further resistance was futile, after the loss of nearly 
all of the ships in the harbor as well as the forts, Admiral 
Ting surrendered and committed suicide. The Chinese 
generals on Liu Kieng Islands did likewise. In the mean- 
while the Japanese army in Manchuria pushed as far north 
as New-Chwang and Liao-Yang, driving the Chinese before 
them and finally ended the war with the engagement 
at Tien-Chwang-tai, where the enemy was irretrievably 
defeated. 

**As a result of the disasters which followed the Chinese 
arms on land and sea, an embassj^ from the Flowery King- 
dom, headed by Li Hung Chang, met representatives from 
Japan at Shimonoseki, with plenar>^ powers to arrange a 
treaty. L^nfortunately, a misguided, fanatical crank at- 
tempted to assassinate the great Chinese statesman, ]March 
24, but happily only succeeded in causing a slight wound 
on the cheek. Negotiations were suspended for a few 
weeks, but were finally resumed and the treaty was ratified 
and signed on April 17, Japan stipulated an indemnity 
of 300,000,000 taels, with the cession of Formosa, the Pes- 
cadores Islands, and the Peninsula of Liaotung, including 
Port Arthur. 

**The powers at once became fearful that possession of 
Port Arthur, the 'Gibraltar of the East,' by Japan, would 
give that nation too much influence with China and re- 
quested that the cession of Liaotung Peninsula be omitted 
from the treaty. There was nothing for Japan to do at 
the time but concede to the wishes of the great powers, Rus- 
sia, France, and Germany, although it was known that 
Russia had her eye on Liaotung Province and the fortress. 
Indeed it was but a few years later, that Russia leased the 
peninsula for twenty-five years and began without delay 
to strengthen the fortifications around Port Arthur. She 
also began the construction of the railroad from Harbin to 
Dalny, which was known as the ice-free port of Manchuria. 

''Although the blow was exceedingly humiliating to the 
entire nation and resulted in great excitement with mob 

[249] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

violence in many of the large cities of the Empire, there 
was nothing left for Japan to do but pocket her pride and 
graciously accept the conditions authorized by the powers. 
** Since a recital of the facts connected with the Boxer 
trouble, and war with Russia," said the Major, ''would re- 
quire more time than we have at our disposal this evening, 
I would suggest that we reserve it for some future 
occasion/' 



[250] 



CHAPTER XXVI 

THE THREE CLASSIC BEAUTIES OF JAPAN 

Matsushima and the Sacred Island op Kin-kwa-zan — 
IsHiN-o-MAKi Bay and the Fantastic Archipelago — 
The Tame Deer op Kin-kwa-zan — Amo-no-Hashidate 
and the Pine Clad Dune — Miya jima, the Sacred Isle 
OF THE Inland Sea — The Mountain District op 
Hakone — The Odawara Conference — Myanoshita 

AND THE FUJIYA HOTEL ThE MaiDEN'S PaSS — 

gotemba and subashira ascent op fujiyama 

The Goddess Fuji-sen-gen — The Eruptions of Fuji 
— Trip to Lake Hakone — The Soga Brethren and 
ToRA GozEN — The Legend op the Bowlder on Kama- 
YAMA — The Ten Province Pass — jigoku, the Big 
Hell — Return to Yokohama. 

WE had finished our dinner and the final note of that 
most bewitching Spanish air, **La Golondrina," 
was dying away as we strolled into the lobby of the Grand 
on the evening of our return from Nik-ko, the garden of 
the Japanese gods. 

*'My friends," said the Major, *Hhere are five localities 
in Japan, which every lover of the true and the beautiful 
should visit after enduring the solitude of that endless 
journey across the lonesome Pacific. These favored spots 
are Nik-ko, Hakone, and the Sen-kei, the latter the three 
picturesque marvels of Dai-Nippon. Matsushima, Amo-no- 
Hashidate, and Miyajima, the favored spots embraced in 
this celebrated trinity, have for untold ages evoked the 
wonder and applauding admiration of a race of nature- 

[251] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

loving people. Poets, artists, and dramatists have sung of 
their wonderful beauty, transferred them to canvas, or 
consecrated them as the scenes in many of the country's 
classical dramas. 

"Matsushima, the most northerly one of the three, lies 
on the east coast in the Province of Rikusen, a few leagues 
above the castle town of Sendai, the former seat of that 
once powerful lord, Mutsu-no-kami, the greatest among the 
northern daimios. The beauty of the place is not con- 
fined to the little railroad station, which bears the same 
name, but includes the Promontory and the Bay of Ishin- 
o-maki with its archipelago of pine-clad islets, which ex- 
tends to the Sacred Island of Kin-kwa-zan. 

*' Between the borders of the bay and the Sacred Island 
the waters fairly bristle with eccentric and bizarre-looking 
islands which baffle description. Like disembodied spirits 
these strange freaks of volcanic action appear on every 
side, during the sail through the bay, and provide the spe- 
cial attraction to Matsushima. Hundreds of these fan- 
tastically shaped tufa rocks which lift their heads high 
above the surrounding water are bare of vegetation, save 
here and there where some dwarfed pine has gained a foot- 
ing and clings to its rocky sides with the frenzy of a ma- 
niac. The lashing waves from the storms of centuries have 
played curious pranks with the isles of the archipelago and, 
through the process of erosion, they have assumed curious 
and grotesque shapes. Sharp crags, tooth-shaped fangs, 
castellated towers with counter-scarp and buttress, natural 
bridges with crumbling ruins, sprites, wraiths, elves, gob- 
lins, and furies greet the vision at every point while sailing 
through this wondrous maze of strange creation. 

'* Kin-kwa-zan, which has been famous as a place of sa- 
cred pilgrimage for ages, may be reached by steamer from 
Shiogama to Aikawa which leaves daily, or by following 
the road from the town of Ishinomaki down the coast of 
the narrow, mountainous peninsula to Yamadori, from 
which the tourist is conveyed across by a small ferry after 

[252] 



CLASSIC BEAUTIES OF JAPAN 

ringing a bronze bell in the little ferry-house to announce 
his arrival. 

"For centuries this sacred spot has been the resort of 
pilgrims of the Buddhist faith, except those belonging to 
the gentler sex, who have never been allowed to walk upon 
its sacred soil. The island abounds in tame deer, which 
have become so accustomed to the gentle priests that they 
go to them when suffering from sickness or slight injury. 
Even now these invalids may be seen wandering around 
the temples, their mouths tied up with the sacred rope of 
the shrine, and refusing food until they recover. The 
hospitable priests entertain all visitors to this enchanting 
place, there being no buildings on the island save those 
belonging to the temples, and escort their guests to its sum- 
mit from which a glorious view of the broad, blue Pacific 
can be obtained. 

**Amo-no-Hashidate lies on the north coast of the Prov- 
ince of Tango and is reached by rail from Osaka to 
Maizuru and thence by a small steamer to Miyazu. This 
famous spot may also be reached, after arrival at Maizuru, 
by ricksha over the causeway which runs along bold 
granite cliffs, thus affording a wonderfully fine view of 
the bay and sea. The curious name given Amo-no-Hashi- 
date means the * Bridge of Heaven' and is said to have 
been taken from the 'Floating Bridge of Heaven* upon 
which Izanagi and Izanami stood when Japan underwent 
creation. 

''The marvellous beauty of the locality is confined to 
the long, narrow, pine-covered tongue of land which ex- 
tends two miles across a lateral arm of the gulf, and the 
borders of the shores which are enclosed by high mountains 
covered with dense forests. The beautiful avenue down 
the long, narrow dune begins at Miyazu and can be 
traversed, in ricksha or afoot, under a shaded archway of 
magnificent pines. The musical lapping of the waves at 
one 's feet, together with the magnificent vista of mountain 
coast across the blue waters of the bay, make the prome- 

[ 253 ] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

nade down this famous avenue one of the most glorious 
bits of land and water scape in Japan. 

''Miyajima, the Sacred Island, and last among this 
selected galaxy of Japanese ideals, lies in the Inland Sea 
and is reached from a railroad station of the same name we 
pass en route to Shimonoseki, and as our itinerary on the 
journey south takes us there we will wait before expressing 
an opinion of that famous shrine of pilgrimage and marvel- 
lous beauty. 

"We have had the pleasure of visiting Nik-ko and before 
starting south I would strongly suggest that we run down 
to the mountain district of Hakone in order to secure a 
perfect view of Sacred Fujiyama, the idol of the nation, 
and spend several days at Myanoshita and Hakone, two 
of Japan's most famous summer resorts." 

There was no dissenting voice to the Major's proposi- 
tion, so the following morning we took an early train for 
Kozu which lies one and a half hours south of Yokohama 
on the Tokaido Railway. "While Hakone is the name^ of 
the beautiful lake and popular resort near Myanoshita, 
the entire mountain district between the Bays of Odawara 
and Suruga bears that designation, with all its enchanting 
scenery of rolling plains, wooded peaks, and sulphurous- 
fumed gorges of roaring, boiling waters. 

Kozu, a pretty little town once famous as a halting- 
place for the daimios of old en route to Yedo, lies on the 
Bay of Odawara and affords a fine view of peerless Fuji 
on a clear day. From this point to Yomoto, ten miles fur- 
ther on, the journey is continued via an electric tram which 
runs along the old Tokaido Highway and passes the castle 
town of Odawara, famous for years as the stronghold of 
a branch of the powerful Hojo family which ruled the 
country after the death of Yoritomo until the middle of 
the fourteenth century. 

The junior members of this family continued to live at 
Odawara until 1590, when defeated in the battle of Ishi- 
kake-yama by the great Taiko Hideyoshi. It is said that 

[254] 



CLASSIC BEAUTIES OF JAPAN 

for many months preceding this decisive battle the Hojos 
called frequent councils to decide whether it was best to 
act on the offensive or defensive. During this unsettled 
policy and apparent lull in hostilities, Hideyoshi made a 
sudden coup de main, by which he entirely vanquished 
his enemies. To the various convocations held in Japan re- 
sulting in endless discussions, even to-day the proverbial 
saying of an '^Odawara Conference" is applied. 

After leaving Odawara the road passes through the val- 
ley of the Haya-kawa, the outlet for Lake Hakone, which 
is rendered extremely attractive by the prominent conical 
twin-peaks Futago-yama constantly looming up ahead. 
From Yomoto the tourist may continue the journey to 
Myanoshita which lies to the right up the mountain slopes 
four miles away, or follow the old Tokaido Highway which 
leads to the town of Hakone eight miles further on. 

The journey from Yomoto to Myanoshita is usually made 
in ricksha, which necessitates the employment of two men, 
on account of the heavy grade along the trail. Sturdy 
travellers, accustomed to vigorous exercise, will have no 
difficulty whatever in making the ascent afoot. A short 
distance beyond Yomoto the little village of Tonosawa is 
passed, famous for its mosaic work in wood which affords 
occupation for the entire populace and is sold at every re- 
sort or watering-place in Japan. The serpentine road 
now becomes very attractive as it winds in and out along 
the sides of the green mountain slopes, which are devoid 
of trees and as smooth as a well-kept lawn. Two miles 
above the little hamlet of Ohiradai we finally emerge upon 
the summit of the mountain plain at Myanoshita, 1,500 
feet above the sea. 

The Fujiya Hotel, with which Myanoshita is blessed, 
is exquisitely located at the foot of a steep, wooded hill 
which leads up to a tea-house 700 feet above and overlooks 
the village. This famous hotel has justly maintained its po- 
sition at the head of the many noted hostelries in the Em- 
pire for a number of years, and counts among its guests 

[255] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

the most distinguished citizens of the world. The hand- 
some buildings, comfortable rooms, excellent fare, together 
with its glass-covered piazzas, spacious grounds ornamented 
with spraying fountains, flowering shrubs and blooming 
flowers, and the pleasant guests found under its hospitable 
roof, have made the Fujiya the crowning point of Ha- 
kone's famous mountain plain. 

Besides the pleasure which may be derived from the nat- 
ural beauty of the place and its pure and invigorating at- 
mosphere, there are many natural thermal springs, which 
possess wonderful healing virtue in the cure of rheumatism, 
neuralgia, and kindred affections. Likewise there are 
many attractive walks in the immediate vicinity of the 
hotel and village, among which may be mentioned the 
climb to Sengen-yama, the wooded hill in rear of the hotel, 
and to Kiga, fifteen minutes away, where picturesque 
waterfalls may be seen and a little tea-house, where gold- 
fish are fed. The ravine, which is spanned by bridge near 
by, discloses large, white stones, which have the appear- 
ance of serpents ' vertebrae, and hence is called the * * Stream 
of the Serpent's Bones." About one-half mile up the 
valley beyond Kiga we reach Miyagino, an attractive little 
village lying on both sides of the Hayakawa River which 
arises in Lake Hakone five miles away. 

Should the tourist desire to visit Fuji he can continue 
his journey from Mayagino along the beautiful valley to 
Sengoku, from which the ascent of the Maiden's Pass be- 
gins, leading on to Otome-Toge, seven miles further on. 
The ascent to the pass is steep but the weary traveller is 
rewarded by the exquisite view obtained of Fuji from this 
point. It is on the summit of this beautiful pass that a 
half hour's halt is called for lunch, and to gaze upon the 
marvellous beauty of the panorama which extends to the 
blue waters of the boundless Pacific. Behind us lie Lake 
Hakone and tliie smoking hell of Ojigoku, the snow-clad 
peaks of Koshu and Shinshu, the Plains of Gengoku and 
the blue waters of the Sagami Bay. In front, a sweep of 

[256] 



CLASSIC BEAUTIES OF JAPAN 

country extends down to the Bay of Suruga, while rising 
high above the plains stands the glistening cone of Fuji 
like a peerless gem in a sea of pure azure. From the sum- 
mit of Otometoge the trail leads down to the town of Go- 
temba on the Tokaido Railway, from which the ascent may 
be made direct, or by way of the village of Subashira, which 
is usually recommended. 

The ascent of Fuji may be very comfortably made from 
Myanoshita on foot, horseback or in a kago. The kago 
consists of a seat made of bamboo lashed to a pole below 
which it hangs suspended, the ends of the pole resting on 
the shoulders of two sturdy bearers. The kago has been 
used by the Japanese for centuries, especially by that class 
unable to own or hire the more expensive norimono or 
palanquin, which was reserved for the daimios and wealthy 
classes. Considerable knack is required to enter the kago 
and to ride in one comfortably requires frequent practice. 
The occupant has to crawl in and fold himself like a jack- 
knife after the fashion of a Turk. This mode of transpor- 
tation perfectly suits the Japanese, who for generations 
have been accustomed to sitting on folded limbs and, be- 
sides, enjoy the swinging motion of the cage. It will be 
remembered that the chair forms no part of the furniture 
in a Japanese household and its non-use has been advanced 
by scientists as an explanation for the short legs of the 
people. Steps have been taken by the national leaders to 
introduce the use of the Western chair in Japanese 
families. 

On arrival at Gotemba, either direct by rail from Yoko- 
hama or cross country from Myanoshita or Ilakone, the 
aspiring mountain-climber will find a horse-car which will 
carry him to the village of Subashira, seven miles away 
and 1,500 feet higher up the mountain-side, which appre- 
ciably diminishes the labors of the arduous climb the fol- 
lowing day. The trip to the top of the volcano can be 
made in one day either from Gotemba or Subashira, but 
for those who have time to spare one night should be 
17 [ 257 ] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

spent on the summit of the mountain to enjoy the aurora 
of the early dawn and the splendors of the setting sun. 

Although the government has provided bungalows 
or stone huts along the mountain-sides, where tea and other 
articles of food may be obtained, the tourist should go 
well provided with warm clothing even though he make 
the ascent during the warmest season, for there is no night 
when the thermometer does not go below freezing. On 
making the ascension from Subashira the start should be 
made at 2 a.m., which will enable the tourist to enjoy the 
sunrise on the way up and also to reach the summit by 
slow stages at noon. Should it be decided to spend the 
night in one of the huts on the summit of the mountain, 
the visitor will be enabled to descend into the crater below 
and make the rounds. There are three entrances to the 
crater, each of which is marked with torii and gateways. 

Beautiful Fuji, which is a perfect, silver-crested pyra- 
mid, stands over 12,000 feet high and changes its color 
from dawn to dusk. This famous mountain has been sa- 
cred to the simple-minded natives for countless centuries 
and the subject of every artist in the land. Hok'sai, the 
great Japanese artist, has enriched the artistic collection 
with thirty-six views of classical Fuji, and Hiroshige with 
fifty-three of the old Tokaido Highway, many of which in- 
clude this beautiful peak. 

The word Fujisan means fire and is supposed to have 
been derived from the Aino language, although there have 
been many violent philological discussions on the subject. 
A popular legend states that the mountain was the resi- 
dence of a goddess named Fugi-sen-gen, which makes it 
sacred. It further states that it arose in a single night and 
that Lake Biwa was hollowed out at the same time. Rec- 
ords have been made of the frequent eruptions which have 
occurred since 799 a.d., the last one taking place in 1707, 
when the hump appeared on the southern side. During 
this last eruption the country for miles around was cov- 
ered with lava and the streets of Yedo, sixty miles away, 

[258] 



a 



CLASSIC BEAUTIES OF JAPAN 

with six inches of ashes. The only sign of activity at pres- 
ent is a little steam and smoke which issue from the cracks 
close to the crater on the Subashira side. 

The ascent of Fuji from Subashira, if made comfortably, 
consumes from eight to ten hours, while the descent can be 
made in a little more than half that time. The record 
from Gotemba to the summit and return stands at nine 
hours and ten minutes, but I would advise no one to at- 
tempt to break this record unless his heart and arterial 
circulation were in the most perfect condition. 

In making a visit to the village of Hakone and the beau- 
tiful lake of the same name from Tokio or Yokohama the 
traveller leaves the railway at Kozu, continuing the journey 
to Yomoto on the electric tram, and following the old To- 
kaido Highway up the Hakone Pass via Hata. The To- 
kaido Highway, which connected Yedo in olden times with 
the Mikado's capital at Kioto, was exceedingly picturesque 
before the advent of the railroad and became the daily 
dream of many an ambitious artist. Between Yomoto and 
Hakone the road gradually rises and the scenery is ex- 
tremely beautiful and picturesque, although the hills are 
bare of trees. 

The trip to Hakone may be varied by spending the night 
at Myanoshita and crossing over the rolling hills the fol- 
lowing morning via Ashinoyu and Moto-Hakone, from 
which the traveller enters an impressive avenue of crypto- 
merias leading to ** Hakone on the Lake." Ashinoyu, al- 
though a bare and uninviting village, possesses a number 
of sulphur springs remarkable for the curative powers of 
their waters for skin diseases and rheumatic affections. 
At the end of the village a path leads up to the summit of 
the Twin Mountains, from which a magnificent view of 
Lake Hakone and surrounding country may be obtained. 

From Ashinoyu the road descends most of the way to 
Lake Hakone and passes, a short distance after leaving 
the village, three small stone monuments dedicated to the 
Soga Brethren, Juro and Goro, who are national heroes 

[259] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

on account of the righteous punishment inflicted on Kudo 
Suketsune, the murderer of their father, near Fuji in 1193. 
Juro was killed during the conflict, but Goro, who sur- 
vived, was sentenced to decapitation with a blunt sword. 
Tora Gozen, a beautiful courtesan and mistress to the elder 
brother, assisted at the coup de grace which removed Su- 
ketsune from the world, and after the death of her lover 
became a pious nun, passing the remainder of her days in 
prayers to the gods in his behalf. 

There are several other objects worthy of a short halt in 
this vicinity. On the roadside, a short distance beyond, 
stands a rock of andesite on which are carved in relief 
images of Buddha, about twenty-five in number, supposed 
to have been done about 1293 by the famous Buddhist 
saint, Kpbo Dashi. Several of these images are unfinished 
and the legend states that Kobo had completed twenty- 
two of them during the night, but as the day broke before 
he had finished them all, he departed and left the work in- 
complete. A colossal image of Jizo, on a rock of andesite, 
stands a few yards from the road, also attributed to the 
same sacred sculptor. 

Farther along the traveller passes, on the right and left, 
small lakes, craters to extinct volcanoes, which are stocked 
with fish and afford amusement to the skating fraternity 
during the winter months. On the right of the road a 
trail ascends to the ridge of Koma-ga-take from which an 
excellent view of the surrounding country can be obtained, 
but not half so fine as that from the summit of Mount Kami- 
yama which commands a prospect of the entire surround- 
ing country. A curious legend exists in connection with 
a large bowlder on the top of Koma-ga-take, the hollow of 
which contains water that never evaporates. The peas- 
ants in the vicinity make pilgrimages to it during the sea- 
sons of drought, in order to provoke rain by scattering on 
the mountain-top a few drops of the sacred water. Should 
some of it be taken down the mountain-side, the legend 
states that violent typhoons will at once occur at sea. 

[ 260 ] 



CLASSIC BEAUTIES OF JAPAN 

At the foot of Futago-yama and the crossing of the pass 
stood the old barrier or guard-house in ancient days, where 
all travellers passing to and fro between the provinces and 
Yedo had to stop to undergo an examination. Private per- 
sons going up to Yedo were required to have a passport, 
otherwise they were placed under arrest and confined for 
three days before being allowed to continue their journey. 
The barrier was removed in 1871, but a portion of the stone 
foundation still remains. 

The village of Hakone lies 1,000 feet higher than Myan- 
oshita and hence the atmosphere is cooler. The town is 
beautifully located among handsome trees where many 
feathered warblers fill the air with joyous song. The lake, 
which is a beautiful sheet of water, extends five miles among 
its wooded borders of picturesque hills and affords ex- 
cellent boating and bathing in season. The many cottages 
which dot the margins of the lake are filled with native so- 
journers, who flock there in the summer from Tokio and 
Yokohama to escape the heated season. A summer palace 
for the Mikado, enclosed in spacious grounds which are 
never open to the public, is located on a handsome bend 
of the shore, but is rarely occupied by its royal owner. 
In summing up the respective advantages of Myanoshita 
and Hakone, the former has the advantage of hot springs, 
a drier atmosphere, and a superior hotel, while Hakone is 
cooler and possesses a picturesque lake, upon whose peace- 
ful bosom at eventide may be seen the reflection of peerless 
Fuji in all its crowning perfection. 

The environment of Hakone is equally as interesting as 
that of Myanoshita, and besides is the gateway to Atami, 
via the Ten Province Pass. The view from the pass en 
route to Atami is unsurpassed anywhere in the empire for 
extent and magnificence of scenery. From the summit of 
the ridge the traveller looks down upon the ten provinces 
of Izu, Suruga, Tatomi, Kai, Kotsuke, Shimosa, Kazusa, 
Awa, Musashi, and Sagami, besides bays, peninsulas, is- 
lands, mountain-ranges, and the incomparable and peer- 

[ 261 ] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

less Fuji which towers thousands of feet in its regal beauty 
above them all. **Like a vast and splendid temple it stands 
high above the ocean plain, white with the snows of cen- 
turies and glistening in the sun like a crowning gem. If 
one's memories of Japan were destined to fade one by one, 
the last would no doubt be that of Fujisan." 

In making the ascent of Fuji from Hakone the tourist 
rows across the lake to its northern end, six miles away, 
and follows the road across rolling downs, bare and deso- 
late, passing through clumps of bamboo until he reaches 
Ubago, which is at the junction of the road, one branch 
passing on to Ojigoku, or the Big Hell, while the main road 
continues on to Sengo-ku-hara and thence on to Otome-Toge 
over the Maiden's Pass. From here the descent is made 
down the steep sides of the hilly trail to Gotemba and the 
ascent of Fuji made direct from there or via Subashira. 

The village of Ubago is made up of rows of long, one- 
story buildings, open in front, and occupied by the pro- 
miscuous bathers of both sexes. To reach Ojigoku or the 
Big Hell we ascend a deep path through the forest, then 
across a ridge and down into a valley of desolation. Be- 
fore us lie heaps of ashes, hillocks of sulphur, holes from 
which steam is issuing, and a treacherous crust from be- 
neath which boiling water can be heard roaring and tum- 
bling. The tourist is advised to follow closely the steps 
of the guide in this dangerous region of geysers and boil- 
ing springs, lest he make a misstep and disappear beneath 
the seething current below. The whole gorge reeks with 
the fumes of burning sulphur and the aspect of the scene is 
wild and weird. Since the visit of the Emperor to Ojigoku, 
several years ago, the place has been renamed and is now 
called Owa-kidama. From here we retrace our steps to 
Myanoshita and return once more to Yokohama. 



[262] 



CHAPTER XXVII 

THE BOXER TROUBLE OF 1900 IN CHINA AND 
NAVAL ENGAGEMENTS DURING THE RUSSO- 
JAPANESE WAR OF 1904-5 

The Boxer Trouble — Murder of the German Minister 
AND Japanese Secretary — The Peking Compact — 
Baron Komura and Count Lamsdorff — The Declara- 
tion OF War — Departure of Togo for Port Arthur 

— Sinking of the ''Koreyetz" and **Variag" at 
Chemulpo — The Rendezvous at Elliott Island — 
Night Attack op the Flotilla on Port Arthur — 
Injury to the * ' Tzarevitch, " ''Revitsan," and 
*'Pallada" — Togo's Attack the Following Morning 

— Blockading the Harbor — The Destruction of 
Rod jestvensky 's Fleet. 

IN order to obtain a clear idea," said the Major, *'of 
the causes which led to the Russo-Japanese War, it 
will be necessary to refer to the Boxer Insurrection of 
1900. Although a number of misguided people, opposed 
to the missionary propaganda of the Christian churches, 
insist that the missionaries excited the movement, the world 
knows that the Boxer trouble was initiated by the ultra 
Conservatives, or Know Nothing Party of the Flowery 
Kingdom, whose slogan was 'China for the Chinese.' Un- 
der the Tokugawas, a similar party existed in Japan, from 
the beginning of the seventeenth century and until Com- 
modore Perry unsealed the country in 1853 through the in- 
vincible argument of an American battle-ship fleet. 

''During the early part of the Insurrection in China 

[263] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

the Boxers killed the secretary of the Japanese legation 
and the German minister, besieged the other foreign lega- 
tions in Peking, and overran a considerable portion of 
Pechili Province. England proposed that Japan become 
sponsor for the Chinese empire and be allowed to settle the 
trouble, but this was not conceded by the other foreign pow- 
ers. The invasion of the allied armies from America, Eng- 
land, Germany, France, Russia, and Japan, the attack on 
the Taku forts at the mouth of the Pei Ho, the capture of 
Tientsin, the march to Peking, and the indemnity paid, are 
too fresh in the memory of the general public to require 
repetition. As usual, dear old Uncle Sam, with that mag- 
nanimity which has always been characteristic of the most 
altruistic nation in the world, could not rest easy until he 
had returned every penny of the $3,000,000 which had been 
allotted as his share. 

*'The movement had also extended to Manchuria, which 
gave Russia the inning she had long desired, namely, an 
excuse for sending troops there under the pretext that it 
was necessary to protect her property in Manchuria, espe- 
cially the railroad under construction to Dalny and Port 
Arthur. Before leaving Peking in 1901, the powers ex- 
acted a promise from Russia that she would withdraw her 
troops from Manchuria in three successive evacuations at 
intervals of six months, beginning October 8, 1902, and 
ending October 8, 1903. 

**The first evacuation took place on the required date, 
but instead of continuing the movement as promised, the 
Russians faced about and began sending additional troops 
to Manchuria in order to protect the great timber conces- 
sion which a Russian company had acquired in the valley 
of the Yalu and at the head-waters of that river. It is 
true that a timber concession had been granted a Russian, 
where were immense tracts of valuable forests belonging 
to the Korean Imperial household. This concession was 
never used until the completion of the Manchurian Railway. 
At this time Russia was endeavoring to exact a promise 

[264] 




NuNOBiKi Falls, Kobe, Japan 



1 




k 






t^;^^ 


^^iMB 







^,...\... Y... . . ■. 



Mountain scenery, Miyanoshita, Japan 




Govern MtNT Mint Park, Osaka, Japan 




Ikuta Temple, Kobe, Japan 



BOXER TROUBLE OF 1900 

from China that, in case she did withdraw her troops as 
agreed, no new posts be opened to foreign consuls, although 
the 'open-door policy' was insisted on by the powers in 
the alliance between England and Japan. 

"Count Alexieff was now appointed viceroy of the Amur 
and Kwantung territories, 1903, and without any delay or- 
dered a Russian fleet to Port Arthur and, indeed, required 
English ships to leave the port, much to the astonishment 
and dismay of the Japanese nation. China again urged 
Russia to comply with the Peking compact, at the same time 
informing her that the request was made through the ad- 
vice of the other powers. Russia not only positively re- 
fused to do so, unless granted her terms of the 'closed 
door,' but began negotiations with Korea to lease Yon- 
gampo on the Yalu, which was intended as an open port. 

''Baron Komura, the Japanese premier, then proposed 
to Russia that an agreement be entered into 'to respect the 
independence and territorial integrity of the Chinese and 
Korean empires,' recognizing the special interest of Russia 
in Manchuria and of Japan in Korea but maintaining, at 
the same time, the rights and privileges of the other pow- 
ers acquired by existing treaties with China. Could any 
nation in the world have made a fairer proposition? It 
was Russia's intention not only to acquire Manchuria, but 
in the end, the peninsula of Korea, the dagger-point with 
which she intended ultimately to pierce Japan to her very 
heart's core. 

"The reply from Count Lamsdorff, the Russian premier, 
was long delayed and it was too evident that they were 
simply sparring for time in order to send more troops and 
supplies to the East, and to place the army in a better con- 
dition when the psychical moment arrived for declaring 
war. The Japanese had exercised the most supreme pa- 
tience and forbearance, during those weary six months 
of diplomatic correspondence which passed between Tokio 
and St. Petersburg, principally carried on by means of the 
cable. 

[265] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

** Every one was at fever heat in Tokio on February 5, 
when Mr. Kurino, the Japanese minister, and his staff were 
ordered to leave St. Petersburg and to communicate his 
orders to Count Lamsdorff. Japan was not taken una- 
wares, for every alert military nation knew that she had 
been preparing for this inevitable struggle ever since com- 
pelled to relinquish, by the Great Northern Bear, her rights 
of conquest from China after the treaty at Shimonoseki. 
Japan had not forgotten the splendid Island of Saghalien, 
appropriated by Russia generations ago, under various pre- 
texts, the loss of Port Arthur and the Liaotung Peninsula 
and Russia's declaration in 1901 that she would ultimately 
dominate the East. 

** Since her war with China in 1894-5, Japan had 
strained every nerve to build a modern and powerful navy. 
New dockyards were constructed and navy-yards estab- 
lished in the most favorable and secure harbors of the em- 
pire. For years preceding the war the noise and din of 
forge and hammer were heard from Sasebo in Kyushu to 
Muroran in Yezo. Nor had she neglected her army which 
had been more than doubled since the war with China and 
equipped with the most modern magazine rifle and field 
artillery. 

''In the guise of peddlers and laborers her engineer of- 
ficers had studied and mapped the territory of Manchuria 
and Korea and knew every river, stream, trail, highway 
and mountain pass, from Harbin in the north to Fusan 
opposite Shimonoseki, the Western Gate of the Inland Sea. 
She had even gone farther with her bureau of information 
and sent numbers of her most intelligent soldiers to work 
as coolies in building the forts and redoubts around Port 
Arthur, Nanshan, Liaoyang, Mukden and other important 
strategic points. These men had even assisted in planting 
mines in the enemy's harbors, among the wire entangle- 
ments at Kinchow and elsewhere. 

**Many of the Japanese officers had acquired a thorough 
knowledge of the Korean and Manchu languages and knew 

[ 266 ] 



BOXER TROUBLE OF 1900 

intimately well many of the inhabitants of those countries. 
Colonel 0. E. Wood, who served as military attache in To- 
kio from 1900 to 1904, said that the Japanese Bureau of 
Military Intelligence was inferior to none in the world. 
So well-equipped with information were the Japanese com- 
manders that they were even able to locate the concealed 
mines before making assaults during the campaigns which 
followed. 

"Colonel Wood further adds that the Japanese army 
has no superior in many vital points. The discipline 
among the men was superb and obedience to officers abso- 
lute. The officers themselves were studious, well-informed, 
and keenly observant in regard to details. He observed 
that in emergencies no confusion existed, nor were any 
boisterous commands given, or unnecessary speech indulged 
in. Each officer became a unit in a great system which 
was well-organized and administered. He learned that the 
greatest care was paid to the organization of the medical 
department and that the medical officers were given ple- 
nary power to perform intelligently the functions of their 
various offices. 

"Reports differ as to date and locality of the first shot 
fired during the Russo-Japanese War. The assertion has 
been made that the first shot was fired by Togo 's destroyers 
at Port Arthur on the night of February 8, while others 
state that the Russian cruiser Koreyetz fired across Ad- 
miral Uriu's bow on the afternoon of February 8 at 
Chemulpo. The question of a few hours' priority in this 
regard matters little, when one reflects over the great trage- 
dies which followed a few hours later at each of those 
ports. 

"Anticipating the immediate declaration of war after 
the withdrawal of Minister Kurino^ Japan despatched, Feb- 
ruary 6, Admiral Togo's fleet of battle-ships and fifty 
transports laden with troops, artillery, horses and supplies 
of every kind, to the ports along the coast of Korea and 
Port Arthur where the Russian fleet was lying. At the 

[267] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

same time trains from every city in the Empire were pour- 
ing in troops and supplies at Nagasaki, Moji, Sasebo, and 
Ujina for transportation to the seat of war. The button 
had been pressed, the die cast, and Japan's war-dogs un- 
leashed to struggle with the mighty Russian Bear. 

^ ' On arrival at Chemulpo, Admiral Uriu, with five cruis- 
ers, two destroyers and three transports with about seven 
thousand soldiers, was detached there with orders to land, 
take possession of the harbor and city, and forward the 
troops to Seoul without delay. 

**It was about 3 o'clock in the afternoon of February 8, 
when Admiral Uriu entered the port of Chemulpo with his 
convoy and, without paying attention to the shot fired 
across his bow by the Russian cruiser Koreyetz, proceeded 
at once to debark the troops. The work of debarkation 
continued all night long, and by the first blush of the morn- 
ing sun the supplies were landed and troops apportioned 
off among the Japanese inhabitants of the town. 

**The sun rose bright and clear the following morning, 
and after the empty transports had been securely anchored 
outside the harbor. Admiral Uriu sent a letter to the Rus- 
sian officer in command demanding surrender, that he 
leave the harbor by noon, or prepare for action. He fur- 
ther added that if they were still in the harbor by 4 p.m. 
he would open fire. Every one knew that the contest would 
be entirely unequal and that Russia's cruiser and gunboat, 
the Koreyetz and Variag, would not last thirty minutes 
under the fire of Uriu's powerful fleet of five modern cruis- 
ers besides the two destroyers. The action of the Russian 
commander the day before was simply quixotic in firing the 
shot across the bow of the Japanese flagship, or in fact for 
remaining in the harbor until Admiral Uriu's arrival. 

*' Captain Stefanoff of the Koreyetz hurried at once to 
his foreign naval colleagues and sought advice. America, 
France, Italy, and Korea were represented with warships 
in the harbor at the time ; in fact, the Russian captain had 
dined the foreign commanders on his own ship the evening 

[268] 



BOXER TROUBLE OF 1900 

before. He knew at the time that Japan had seized two 
Russian merchantmen off the coast of Korea that morning 
and was in a quandary as to the course he should pursue. 
"What could he expect under the circumstances? For he 
was informed there was nothing to do but choose one of 
Uriu's alternatives. 

"What difference did it make after all? Should he sur- 
render he would be tried by court-martial, and most likely, 
in accordance with Russian naval regulations, sentenced 
to death. It was with the same feeling of personal courage 
which impels the criminal to ascend the steps of a scaffold 
from which he is to swing a few moments later, that Cap- 
tain Stefanoff ordered his ships to move from the harbor 
at the appointed hour. It is said that the harbor was lit- 
erally strewn with the officers' and men's personal belong- 
ings as the Koreyetz steamed away to meet her certain 
doom. The hilltops around the entire harbor were cov- 
ered with the people of the town and surrounding country 
to witness the impending tragedy, while the crews of 
the other ships lustily cheered as the Koreyetz left her 
moorings. 

**The Koreyetz had scarcely cleared the harbor when the 
Asama, Admiral Uriu's flagship, fired a shot across the bow 
of the Russian vessel and demanded surrender. The Ko- 
reyetz replied by a broadside which went wide of its mark, 
although the distance was but 4,000 yards. The Asama 
then opened fire, piercing the Koreyetz a half-dozen times 
and inflicting such severe injury that nothing was left but 
to steer for shallow water before sinking. So rapid and 
fatal was the Japanese fire that the engagement scarcely 
lasted one-quarter of an hour. 

*'The Yariag was a little late in leaving her moorings 
and getting away, and although she was aware of the fate 
which had befallen her consort, moved out gamely to the 
field of her execution. In leaving the harbor, she endeav- 
ored to pass the Japanese fleet, opening up as she moved 
by with a broadside. While manoeuvring to fire her star- 

[ 269 ] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

board guns, she was literally torn to pieces by the Japa- 
nese fire. Her upper deck was crumpled up, her bridge 
twisted beyond recognition, and the dead and dying piled 
up between the dismantled guns and debris. Riddled with 
shells and in a foundering condition, she returned to the 
harbor and signalled the foreign vessels to assist in remov- 
ing the dead and dying. In ten minutes after entering ac- 
tion, but sixty-seven men out of a crew of 130 were living. 
Both vessels were subsequently blown up by the Russians, 
and the remainder of the crews paroled and sent home. 

** Before following the land forces, w^e will see what Togo 
was doing after leaving Admiral Uriu at Chemulpo. Ar- 
riving at Elliott, sixty-five miles from Port Arthur, on the 
evening of February 8 and not waiting for the Russians 
to strike a blow, he despatched the same night to Port Ar- 
thur a flotilla of ten destroyers, with orders to damage and 
destroy as many of the Russian battle-ships as possible. 
Curiously, as it may seem, the enemy appeared asleep and 
at peace with the entire world when the gallant little flock 
of destroyers at midnight flew across the harbor under 
the frowning guns of the Tiger's Tail and the entire Rus- 
sian fleet, and torpedoed three of her most powerful battle- 
ships, the Tzarevitch, Eevitsan, and Pallada. About two 
hours later the destroyers made another attack, this time 
apparently accomplishing nothing, but getting away in each 
instance hide free. 

*'A comparison of the two fleets may be interesting at 
this point. Togo had with him the fleet of six battle-ships, 
all of which were modern and in every sense up-to-date. 
Four of these ships were of over 15,000 tonnage, each with 
a broadside of over 4,000 pounds in weight. The other two 
battle-ships were of 12,000 tonnage, with corresponding 
weights of broadside. Besides these he had nine modern 
armored cruisers, fifteen thirty-knot torpedo-destroyers, 
and twenty first- and second-class torpedo-boats. The 
Russians had at Port Arthur seven battle-ships, one 

[ 270 ] 



BOXER TROUBLE OF 1900 

armored cruiser, four nnarmored cruisers and a powerful 
fleet of destroyers, some of the fastest in the world. 

''On the night of the destroyer attack, nearly all of the 
naval officers were indulging in a regular jollification 
ashore. Admiral Starck was giving a birthday dinner in 
honor of his wife and had as guests the principal officers 
of the fleet. Barouf sky's circus, which happened to be in 
town, was in full blast and filled with junior officers and 
sailors. The cafes chantants were ablaze with life, mirth, 
and song, while the clubs, bars, and purlieus of the red- 
light districts were crowded to overflowing. 

''The booming of cannon in the harbor arrested but for 
a moment the attention of that wild and besotted crowd 
which under the garish lights, staggered around the streets 
of Port Arthur on that eventful night in February. 

" 'It is nothing more than a salute to some incoming 
vessel from Europe, or possibly target practice,' said a 
few of the most thoughtful, as they hurried away to some 
prearranged rendezvous. 'In any event, let us celebrate 
to-night, for on the morrow we start for Japan to cage the 
pygmies of Dai-Nippon. ' 

"Had any one taken the trouble that night to reach the 
harbor, he would no doubt have seen the great flagship 
Petropaulovsk blinking in dot and dash messages to the 
remainder of the fleet, the injuries the three great battle- 
ships had so unexpectedly received. 

"Bright and early the following morning, Togo paraded 
up and down before the harbor and invited the Russians 
to come out for a duel. Nothing daunted by the accidents 
of the night before, the Russian admiral accepted the chal- 
lenge and moved out of the harbor. The engagement 
lasted about five hours, during which time the battle-ships 
Petropaulovsk and Poltava and the cruisers Diana and 
Askold were hit and injured, besides the little scout-boat 
Novik, which persisted in running out to tackle the Japa- 
nese in spite of its diminutive size. 

[271] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

**The war, which had been declared February 10, was 
now on in earnest and Admiral Makaroff was appointed 
to the command of the Russian fleet. Disaster after dis- 
aster followed the Russians at every step they took and it 
seemed as if they had been abandoned by the 'God of 
Hosts/ for on the thirteenth the Great Admiral and the 
hope of Russia ventured out of the harbor with his battle- 
ship and was accidentally struck by a mine which not only 
carried him and his great flagship and crew to the bottom 
of the sea, but the celebrated artist Verestchagen who was 
on the vessel as a guest at the time. This was followed 
the next day by the loss of the Russian cruiser Boyarin 
which had been torpedoed by the Japanese. 

**In less than one week from the beginning of war, the 
Russians had lost three warships, seven damaged and tem- 
porarily out of commission and by capture thirteen 
merchantmen and whalers. They had even suffered more 
than this, for they had lost entire prestige in Chemulpo 
and Korea generally. Had they been vigilant and active 
with their fleet, it is possible that they might have destroyed 
the Japanese fleet and thus have ended the war in ten 
days. It must not be understood that the Japanese had 
entirely fair sailing, for they had lost one of their battle- 
ships, the Hatsuse, which had run afoul of a mine on May 
15, and the Yoslmio as the result of a collision with the 
Kasuga. 

*'0n February 23 Togo decided to blockade the chan- 
nel of Port Arthur and for this purpose secured five 
steamers loaded down with ballast. Volunteers were asked 
to man the ships and thousands expressed their willingness 
to go. Many of them, like the samurai of old, signed 
their names in their blood. The five steamers were es- 
corted into the harbor by five torpedo boats and then made 
a rush for the channel. None of them reached the goal, 
however, except the old Hokoku which sank near the 
entrance. A second attempt was made March 26, with 
four other steamers, but they suffered the fate of the first 

[272] 



BOXER TROUBLE OF 1900 

ones without accomplishing any beneficial results to the 
Japanese. 

**The third and final effort was made on May 3, for 
which Togo secured eight steamers, larger and more power- 
ful than the others. Amid howling winds and in the 
roughest kind of weather these floating coffins charged up 
the harbor in the face of hundreds of guns and hidden 
mines. They finally reached the channel and in a measure 
made a success of the enterprise. Of the 130 men who 
constituted the crews of these doomed ships only sixty- 
seven survived, and a number of them swam ashore and 
attempted to capture one of the forts single-handed. Was 
there ever such a frenzied set of patriots in the world? 
Never, since the days when all Europe went mad in the 
attempt to rescue the Holy Sepulchre from the hands of 
the Infidel. 

"After the first few months of the war, the Russian 
fleet did nothing more than act on the defensive, and, in 
fact, never ventured beyond the shadow of the heavy guns 
of the fort until their final unfortunate attempt, on August 
10, to escape. It will be remembered that on this occa- 
sion the Pallada and Novik were sunk and the Sevastopol, 
Revitsan, Pohieda, Poltava, and Peresviet driven back into 
the harbor, where they remained until sunk by the plun- 
ging fire of the Japanese from 174 Metre Hill. The re- 
mainder of the fleet escaped to neutral ports where they 
remained disarmed until the close of the war. 

''Every one remembers Rodjestvensky's unfortunate re- 
lief expedition to the East in the Spring of 1905 and the 
ghosts of the Japanese torpedo-flotilla he saw on the Dag- 
ger Banks of the North Sea when he sank two boats be- 
longing to an English fishing fleet. It was on May 14 
that he left neutral waters and directed his course towards 
Vladivostok. Admiral Togo was lying at Chien-hai Bay 
on watch with a fleet superior to the Russians. He kept 
in touch with his fleet by means of the wireless and knew 
when Rodjestvensky would pass through the Korean Strait. 
18 [ 273 ] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

At 2 P.M. on May 27, the Russian fleet passed north of 
Okino Shima in the east channel, steering in two- columns. 

"The day was foggy and the sea heavy, when Togo ap- 
peared from the west, which gave him the advantage of 
light. The Russians began their fire at a distance of six 
miles, while the Japanese reserved theirs until they had 
closed up to within two miles. The Russian fleet was un- 
equal in every regard to the Japanese, in vessels, guns, and 
seamanship, and by 5 o'clock that afternoon was irretriev- 
ably injured, sunk, or scattered over the Sea of Japan. 
Six of the battle-ships were sunk and two captured. Three 
cruisers escaped to Manila, one to Vladivostok, one to 
Shanghai, and one to San Francisco. 

"Admiral Rodjestvensky, who was wounded early in the 
action, was captured the next day on the destroyer Bied- 
ovi. Of the Russian crew, 4,000 were killed and drowned 
and 7,000 taken prisoners. The Japanese lost in killed 
115 and 400 wounded. The annihilation of Rodjest- 
vensky 's fleet called the attention of the world to the fu- 
tility of continuing the war and resulted in the Treaty of 
Portsmouth.*' 



[274] 



CHAPTER XXVIIl 

LAND ENGAGEMENTS OF THE JAPANESE ARIMY 
DURING THE BUSSO-JAPANESE WAR 

Organization of the Japanese Army — Strength of 
THE RussL\N Army — Battle of the Yalu — Kuroki 
i\lARCHES North — The Battle of Motienling Pass — 
Arrival of the Second Army under General Oku — 
The Battle of Nan Shan — Battles of Tehlisz, 
Kaiping, Newchwang, and Taihihkao — Arrival of 
THE Fourth Army under General Nodzu — Battles 
of Fenshuiling and Tomucheng — Siege of Liaoyang 
and Retreat of the Russians — Battle of the Sha- 
HO — The Siege of Port Arthur under General Nogi 

— Battle of Mukden — Negotiations for Peace 

— Meeting at Portsmouth, New Hampshire — Terms 
of the Agreement — Conclusion of Peace — Dis- 
satisfaction in Japan and Russia — Kuropatkin's 
Summary of Causes Leading to Russlin Reverses — 
The Real Causes — Japanese Casualties during the 
War. 

BEFORE following the important steps of land forces 
during the recent war with Russia, it may be as 
well," said the Major, ''to state the composition of 
the different Japanese armies which participated in the 
active campaigns. The First Army, under the command 
of General Kuroki, was composed of the Imperial Guards 
Division, Second and Twelfth Divisions, First Brigade of 
Artillery, Second Brigade of Cavalry and a mixed Reserve 
brigade. The Second Army, under General Oku, con- 

[275] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

tained the First, Third, Fourth, and Sixth Divisions, Sec- 
ond Artillery Brigade and First Cavalry Brigade. The 
Third Army, under General Nogi, was composed of the 
Seventh, Ninth, and Eleventh Divisions, a brigade of Siege 
Artillery, and a mixed Reserve brigade; while the Fourth 
Army, under General Nodzu, consisted of the Fifth and 
Tenth Divisions. The First Division of the Second Army, 
after the battle of Nan Shan, was assigned to Nogi's Army 
and participated in the siege of Port Arthur. 

**In addition to the various regiments composing these 
armies, each division was provided with pontoon bridges, 
supply and ammunition trains, field and telephone detach- 
ments, and six field hospitals. The aggregate strength of 
a mobilized division amounts to something over 20,000 
men, besides 6,000 horses. The thirteen divisions there- 
fore contained about 275,000 troops, besides 50,000 men 
belonging to the seven separate brigades. It is more than 
probable that Field-Marshal Marquis Oyama's army in 
Manchuria, including the general staff, gendarmes, trans- 
port, train, medical, and commissariat services, in addition 
to General Kawimura's army which joined before the bat- 
tle at Mukden, numbered considerably over 400,000 men. 

**I may as well add here, that the Japanese have added, 
since the Russo-Japanese War, six additional divisions to 
their army. Opposed to the Japanese, the Russians had 
100,000 troops in Manchuria and Korea when war was de- 
clared, and it is believed that with the limited railroad 
facilities, at no time during the war were they ever after- 
wards able to muster an army of more than 300,000 men 
in the Far East. 

**We will now return to the movements of the First 
Army under General Kuroki which was engaged at the 
battle of the Yalu, the first engagement of any special im- 
portance of the war. While the largest part of Kuroki 's 
army landed in the northern part of the Korean Penin- 
sula, one brigade entered Chemulpo under the protection 
of Admiral Uriu's squadron and took possession of that 

[276] 



LAND ENGAGEMENTS 

seaport. This brigade eventually marched north, partici- 
pating in the engagements of Pingyang and Chong-fu, and 
finally reached Wiju in time to take part in the battle of 
the Yalu which began on the thirtieth of April and termi- 
nated on the first of May. 

** General Saussalitch, who commanded the Russian 
Army of about 20,000 men, had the advantage of position 
and was besides strongly fortified, while General Kuroki 
had the disadvantage of crossing the river which in places 
had to be waded. It is said that the Russian commander 
made a poor disposition of his troops and should have 
made a better showing, although opposed by more than 
double his force. The Russians lost in killed and wounded 
about 5,000 men, while the casualties of the Japanese 
amounted to about 1,100. 

** After crossing the Yalu and dispersing the Russian 
troops, Kuroki continued his march north, and after re- 
peated successes succeeded in joining the Second and 
Fourth Armies in front of Liaoyang where one of the 
fiercest battles of the war was fought. During his march 
north, Kuroki was engaged in many serious engagements 
and was universally successful. Among the hard-fought 
battles of this campaign were several at Motienling Pass 
which the Russians attempted time and again to recover, 
under the command of General Keller with an army of 
25,000 troops. It was during one of these engagements 
that General Keller was killed. In spite of a dozen or 
more small, but hard-fought engagements en route north, 
General Kuroki disposed of all opposition and was able to 
join Generals Oku and Nodzu at Liaoyang where Kuro- 
patkin's army was driven before its final stand at Mukden. 

*'In order to obtain a better idea of the Manchurian 
campaign it will be necessary to take up the movements 
of each separate army. General Oku, who commanded the 
Second Army, landed at Elliott Island early in May and 
remained sheltered there until the result of Kuroki 's en- 
gagement on the Yalu was known. Immediately after the 

[277] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

Russians were driven north he marched across the Liao- 
tung Peninsula, brushing all opposition aside, and began 
the siege of Nan Shan which is located a few miles south 
of the old Capital of Kinchow. The isthmus is very nar- 
row at that point, only a few miles across from sea to sea, 
and consists principally of sand-dunes with here and there 
an out-cropping rock. 

**The Russians had strongly fortified Nan Shan and a 
hill immediately south and west known as Nankwanlien. 
They had planted sixty-eight guns on the line of fortifica- 
tions on the crest of the hills and extended trenches across 
the isthmus from water to water. In front of these in- 
trenchments they had placed a most complicated system 
of barbed-wire entanglements between which were buried 
mines. The trenches were covered with iron roofing, spaces 
being left for rifle fire. Twenty of the guns were six inches 
in calibre, and were subsequently used by the Japanese 
against the Russians at Liaoyang and Mukden. 

**I will not attempt to describe the battle, but it is 
enough to say that the attack began early in the morning 
of May 26 and lasted until 7 p.m. that evening, at which 
hour the Russians retreated southward and finally joined 
General Stossel at Port Arthur. Great difficulty was ex- 
perienced in breaking through the barbed-wire entangle- 
ments which so effectually screened the covered intrench- 
ments of the enemy. The fourth division, under General 
Ogawa, finally waded through the shallow waters of the 
bay and made a flank movement on the enemy's right 
which put them to flight. The Russians lost 2,000 in killed 
and wounded, besides sixty-eight field guns, ten Maxim 
rapid-fire guns and many other valuable war supplies. 
The Japanese lost 4,000, among whom was a son of Gen- 
eral Nogi. 

'^Immediately following this victory at Nan Shan, Gen- 
eral Oku marched north, winning many battles, among 
which may be mentioned Tehlisz, Kaiping, Newchwang and 
Tashihkao, and finally joined Generals Kuroki and Nodzu 

[278] 



LAND ENGAGEMENTS 

before Liaoyang. The battle of Thelisz, on June 15, was 
considered a great victory for the Japanese ; with an army 
of 24,000 men, they defeated the Russians with an army 
of 30,000 strongly intrenched. Each side employed be- 
tween ninety and one hundred guns. The Japanese losses 
amounted to 1,000, while the Russians admitted about 
2,000. 

' ' On July 9 General Oku drove the Russians from Kaip- 
ing and on the twenty-fourth administered a defeat to 
General Kuropatkin at Tashihkao where the latter sus- 
tained a loss of 2,000 men. The engagement of Newchwang 
occurred on August 3, and from that date until the latter 
part of August Oku's army was engaged in driving the 
Russian forces ahead of him towards Liaoyang. 

''The Fourth Army, under the command of General 
Nodzu, landed at Takushan about the nineteenth of May 
and immediately proceeded north to join the other two 
armies which were to confront the entire Russian forces 
sooner or later. Marching between Kuroki on his right and 
Oku on his left he encountered the Russians at a number of 
points in which his arms were invariably successful. 

"Among the principal engagements during this cam- 
paign may be mentioned Fenshuiling, June 26, and To- 
mucheng, July 31. The Russians lost in the latter fight 
over 2,000 in killed and wounded, besides a large quan- 
tity of ammunition, rifles, and other supplies. The Japa- 
nese lost about 1,000. "When Nodzu joined Oku and Kur- 
oki, ten battles, besides a number of small engagements, 
had been fought in Manchuria in every one of which the 
Russians had been defeated. In their own territory, with 
equal forces and equipment, these results were entirely 
unexpected to the world at large. 

** Before the general engagement at Liaoyang occurred, 
a number of serious affairs had taken place south and west 
with the three columns of the First Army. General Kur- 
oki had pressed the Russians towards Liaoyang and 
occupied the right bank of the Tang-ho. The Second 

[279] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

Army advanced along the Liaoyang-Haicheng road and 
drove the enemy from their positions extending from 
Anshantien to Tengaopao. The Fourth Army followed 
east of the Liaoyang-Haicheng road, and after several en- 
gagements drove the Russians north of the Sha-ho. The 
position of the Japanese on the twenty-fourth of August 
was as follows : Kuroki on the right, Nodzu in the centre, 
and Oku on the left. 

**The main assault on Liaoyang began on the thirtieth 
of August and continued until September 4, on which day 
the Japanese entered the city. The Russians had most 
carefully prepared their lines of defences by practically 
encircling the city with breastworks, trenches, and barbed- 
wire entanglements, from which they were driven after 
frequent assaults and with tremendous losses. On the 
thirty-first of August Oku put in position the heavy siege 
guns captured at Nan Shan, and for the third time that 
day, at 7 p.m., ordered his entire line to charge the in- 
trenchments. In the meanwhile, Kuroki made a flank 
movement around the city to the north, with the intention 
of destroying the railroad to Mukden and cutting off all 
northern communication. 

''In order to overcome this movement Kuropatkin or- 
dered his first and second defences abandoned. The Japa- 
nese continued assaults on the second and third of Septem- 
ber and approached near enough to shell the city and the 
railroad bridge. During this period of the siege the Rus- 
sians began evacuation and were hastily shipping their 
guns, supplies, and troops north to Mukden. In the mean- 
while Kuroki crossed the Tai-tse and threatened the re- 
treating line of the Russians, while the main army entered 
the city on the fourth of September. Kuropatkin made a 
masterful retreat from Liaoyang and was followed by the 
Japanese almost to the Hun, during which many hand to 
hand conflicts took place with the rear-guard. The Jap- 
anese forces at Liaoyang amounted to 160,000 men, while 
Kuropatkin had 140,000. The Japanese casualties in 

[280] 



LAND ENGAGEMENTS 

killed and wounded were 17,535, while the Russian loss 
amounted to 24,830. 

''The day following the capture of Liaoyang the Japa- 
nese began preparations for an advance farther north, 
although the Russians had destroyed the bridges across the 
Tai-tse. Before they had proceeded very far, however, 
the Russians began a southerly movement, crossing the 
Hun again, and began an attack on the Japanese advance- 
guard. A large number of serious engagements occurred 
north of Liaoyang and finally culminated in the great bat- 
tle of the Sha-ho from October 8 to 12, in which the 
Russians were completely routed. During the five or six 
engagements from September 5 to October 15, the Jap- 
anese sustained a loss of 15,878 while the casualties of 
the Russians amounted to the enormous figures of 60,000, 
13,333 of whom were killed. The strength of the Japanese 
at the Sha-ho is estimated to have been 200,000, while the 
Russians had 200,000 infantry and 26,000 cavalry, with 
950 guns. Winter was now coming on, and both armies 
intrenched themselves for further preparation and to await 
developments at Port Arthur. 

**"We will now return to Port Arthur which for months 
had been undergoing one of the most memorable sieges re- 
corded in the pages of the world's history. At the begin- 
ning of the war this celebrated fortress was in a better 
state of defence than ever before. For years engineer of- 
ficers had been at work and many millions of roubles had 
been spent on it. Port Arthur lies at the southern ex- 
tremity of the Liaotung Peninsula. Louisa and Pigeon 
bays lie about five miles away on the western coast, and 
Dalny on Ta-lien-wan Bay, with which it is connected by 
rail, twenty-three miles east. On the north, thirty miles 
distant, is located Kinchow on the famous isthmus at the 
border of which is located Nan Shan, where General Oku 
won his famous battle early in the war. 

''The town of Port Arthur lies along the harbor at the 
foot of an irregular range of hills extending north and 

[281] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

east several miles and intersected by deep ravines and dry 
arroyas. It was on those high hills to the north and east 
of the city that the formidable circle of fortifications was 
located. Around the fortifications extended connecting 
intrenchments, protected by a maze of barbed-wire entan- 
glements which seemed impossible to overcome. Besides 
the fortifications above mentioned Tiger's Tail and Mount 
Man-tan-Shan, at the entrance of the harbor, were occu- 
pied with the heaviest kind of defences. Owing to its po- 
sition and impregnable condition, Port Arthur has here- 
tofore been considered the * Gibraltar of the East.' 

''Early in August General Nogi, who commanded the 
Third Army at the siege of Port Arthur, had driven the 
Russian outposts to within six miles of the Fort and on 
the sixteenth of the month demanded its surrender. 
On the nineteenth by an assault he carried 174 Metre Hill 
on the north and Panlungshan Fort on the east. 

**We have not sufficient time to enter into the details 
of the hundreds of fearless assaults made by the Japanese, 
which were repelled with equal bravery on the part of the 
Russians. Each month the net was drawn more tightly 
around the doomed fort and when General Stossel found 
that it was foolhardy to hold out longer, he surrendered 
on January fourth. After the capture of 203 Metre 
Hill the Japanese destroyed the remaining ships in the 
harbor by indirect fire. Although General Stossel was 
tried by court-martial for surrender, his brave defence 
of the fortress during those long and dreary six months 
has won the praise of the entire world, including Japan. 
During the siege the Russians lost in killed 10,000 and 
17,000 in sick and wounded. The Japanese were reported 
to have lost 40,000 in killed and wounded. 

"Let us now return north to Mukden where Kuropatkin 
was lying with an army of 300,000 men awaiting devel- 
opments at Port Arthur. Several weeks after the surren- 
der of General Stossel, Kuropatkin crossed the Hun and 
attacked the left wing of the Japanese at Chen-chieh-pu 

[282] 



LAND ENGAGEMENTS 

and Hei-kan-tai. On the next day a large Japanese force 
was sent up, resulting in a fierce engagement and defeat 
of the Russians. The Russians lost in this fight 10,000 
while the Japanese lost 7,000. 

** Shortly afterwards was begun before Mukden the final 
land engagement of the war, which was waged along a hun- 
dred miles of front. In addition to the armies of Kuroki, 
Oku, and Nodzu, Nogi had joined from Port Arthur and a 
new army from Japan under Kawimura. After a week of 
hard fighting the Russians abandoned the city on March 
10 and marched north towards Harbin, leaving Muk- 
den in the hands of the Japanese. It is stated that the 
entire Russian army became a disorganized body of fugi- 
tives during the retreat to Mukden, except the centre which 
was commanded by General Linevitch, who superseded 
General Kuropatkin in command after the battle. The 
Japanese are estimated to have lost from 60,000 to 100,000 
in killed and wounded during the preliminary attacks and 
siege, while the losses of the, Russians are believed to have 
been near 150,000. Among the trophies captured by the 
Japanese were sixty field guns besides a large quantity of 
artillery and rifle ammunition. Both armies were com- 
pletely worn out after the six weeks' constant fighting and 
were willing to rest before renewing the conflict. 

''Long before the Russians had committed the greatest 
blunder of the war, in despatching Rodjestvensky's fleet 
to the Far East, the futility of prolonging the conflict had 
become apparent to the world at large. Russia had proven 
herself in no wise a match for the Japanese either in her 
preparations, or the strategical ability of her generals. To 
continue the war meant greater sacrifices of human life, 
with no corresponding advantage to the Russian arms. 
Early in the summer, after consultation with the powers, 
Mr. Roosevelt, President of the United States, proposed 
negotiations which received favorable consideration from 
the belligerent nations. 

* * Russia sent Count Witte and Baron Rosen, her minister 

[283] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

at Washington, and Japan appointed Baron Komura and 
Mr. Takahira. Owing to the heat of summer the repre- 
sentatives met at Portsmouth, New Hampshire, on the fifth 
of August. Baron Komura made a large number of ex- 
travagant propositions to the Russians, which were bluntly 
refused, among which was an indemnity of $600,000,000 
and the entire island of Saghalien. After three weeks' 
discussion a favorable issue was reached on the twenty-sixth 
of August. 

*'By the treaty Russia acknowledged Japan's paramount 
interest in Korea ; transferred the lease of Port Arthur 
with Chang-chung-fu and Kwan-chang-tsu, the coal mines 
in the neighborhood and the southern half of Saghalien 
Island, with the proviso that no military measures be taken 
to impede navigation in the straits of La Pelouse and Tar- 
tary. Both parties agreed to evacuate Manchuria, except 
the concession in the Liaotung Peninsula, within eighteen 
months and to restore its control to China. Besides these 
articles there were a number of minor agreements. 

**The terms of the treaty proved highly unsatisfactory 
to the people of both nations and produced serious riots 
in those countries. The Japanese people had hoped for 
a large money indemnity besides the cession of the entire 
Island of Saghalien, while the Russians wanted to raise an 
army of 600,000 men and continue the war. Martial law 
was proclaimed in Japan after the mob had thrown stones 
at Marquis Ito whom they held responsible for the favor- 
able concessions to Russian demands. In the meanwhile 
feeling ran so high in Russia that the people threatened a 
national revolution. In the course of a few months, how- 
ever, both nations calmed down and recognized the mutual 
advantages in the treaty. 

** Several years after the conclusion of peace General 
Kuropatkin issued a book entitled ' The Russian Army and 
the Japanese War/ in which he summarizes various rea- 
sons for the Russian reverses. Among these he refers to 
the minor part played by the fleet, the small carrying ca- 

[284] 



LAND ENGAGEMENTS 

paeity of the Siberian and Eastern Chinese railways, lack 
of diplomatic arrangements to permit the unhampered des- 
patch and distribution of troops, delay in mobilizing rein- 
forcements, disadvantage of partial mobilization, the trans- 
fer of the regulars to the reserves, delay of arrival of new 
conscripts at the front, weakness of disciplinary measures 
among the commanders, delay in promoting officers for 
gallant and distinguished services and the inadequacy of 
money allotted the army from 1898 to 1903, and to meet 
the present demands. 

' * He also states that the high moral tone among the Jap- 
anese officers and men contributed to their success, and 
that they were saturated with a patriotism imbibed with 
their mothers' milk. He also spoke highly of the simple 
life led by the highest ranking Japanese officers in con- 
trast to that of the Russians. 

^'General Kuropatkin might have gone much further 
in his summary of causes which led to his universal fail- 
ure to win battles. One of the greatest factors conducive 
to Japanese success was the excellent moral training of 
both officers and men and their temperate habits. Very 
few of the Japanese officers or men drank anything be- 
sides their native drink, sake, w^hich is low in alcoholic po- 
tentiality, and none of them were hampered with lewd 
women either in garrison or field. On the other hand the 
Russians were excessive in the use of the very strongest 
alcoholic drinks and openly courted an immoral life. It 
is generally known that during most important and serious 
engagements officers of the highest rank found time to pay 
court to their mistresses who were permitted to accompany 
them to the field and were even provided with tents in 
which to live. 

''Many of the officers' wives accompanied their husbands 
to the field under the guise of Sisters of Mercy and were 
known as 'Margarine Sisters.' These sister-wives had a 
nefarious influence on the army, for during the lulls in 
military operations they would flirt with the young officers, 

[285] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

causing jealousy on the part of their husbands and neglect 
of duty. Moreover, these women impeded the movement 
of the troops and frequently deprived the sick and 
wounded of the trains necessary to carry them back to the 
general hospitals. The oft-quoted statement, 'that the 
fighting man must be a drinking man,* was proved abso- 
lutely erroneous during the war between the drinking Rus- 
sians and the temperate Japanese. 

'*In summing up the Japanese losses during the war, 
Surgeon-General Kepke states that 47,387 were killed in 
action and 172,425 wounded, and that the total killed, 
wounded, and sick during the entire war amounted to 554,- 
885 men. Three hundred and twenty thousand sick were 
returned to Japan for treatment, which rather opposes the 
idea that the sanitary arrangements of the Japanese army 
were carried out so perfectly that but few were taken sick. 
One hundred and thirty-five thousand were killed or died 
during the war, about 14.58 per cent of the total strength 
mobilized and in action. From these figures it will be 
seen that Japan called at least 1,500,000 men to the colors 
during the war. 

''Since the termination of that great conflict, which 
demonstrated to the world that in future Japan will have 
to be considered in settling the disputes of the Orient, the 
empire has continued to increase its army and navy, al- 
though both have reached a high standard of efficiency 
and compare favorably with those of the great nations of 
the world. Whether these preparations are simply made 
to maintain peace at home or to enable them later on to 
cast the gantlet at the feet of some conflicting nation, are 
problems which time alone can solve. '* 



[286] 



CHAPTER XXIX 

J[OURNEY FROM YOKOHAMA TO KIOTO 

The American Fleet in Yokohama — The Departure 
FOR Kioto — The Old Admiral and the Native Lunch 
— The Tokaido and Nakasendo Highways — Oiso, 
Kozu, and Gotemba — Mio-no-Matsubara and the 
Drama of The Robe of Feathers — Kunozan and the 
Tomb of Ieyasu — Nagoya, the Capital of Owari — 
The Old Castle — Atsuta and the Temple op the 
Sacred Sword — The Seto Potteries — The Nagoya 
Hotel and Japanese Maids — Gifu and Cormorant 
Fishing — Seki-ga-hara and Head Mounds — Arrival 
in Kioto. 

MY friends,'* said the Major, the day following our 
return from Myanoshita and the District of Ha- 
kone, *'our visit to Northern Japan is over. We must 
leave gay Yokohama, with its brilliant decorations in 
honor of the arriving American fleet, and hie away to 
Kioto and Nara which are in the heart of old Japan." 

Great preparations had been made by the Japanese gov- 
ernment for the reception of Uncle Sam's battle-ships, both 
in Yokohama and the national capital at the date of our 
departure south, and it is doubtful whether any civic or 
military display in the United States would have equalled 
by half that provided for us, even had our fleet returned 
from a brilliant victory against the most formidable navy 
of the world. Whosoever understands the Oriental char- 
acter, let him step forth and declare. 

Mutterings of impending trouble in the Far East had 

[287] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

found their way to the remotest corners of the Great Ke- 
piiblic ; Japanese spies, in the guise of peddlers of pinoche, 
dulces, and other fol-de-rol were found on every carabao 
trail throughout the island of fair Luzon ; the hills around 
Olongapo in Subig Bay, where our government was rapidly 
building sea-coast defences, were bristling with Japanese 
draughtsmen, making sketches of our emplacements; they 
had photographed Corregidor; the names of every officer 
and the number of enlisted men in our service in the Phil- 
ippines, were in the hands of the War Office in Tokio, and 
our battle-ships in Manila Bay were practically cleared 
for action, when the Strenuous One in Washington ordered 
those sixteen modern death-dealing machines to tour the 
world. 

Can any one doubt why they were sent to the Orient at 
that critical time, and why they found their way into the 
old bay of Yedo, under the very shadow of the Mikado's 
palace ? Every school child in Japan had solved the prob- 
lem months before the fleet arrived, and yet with banners 
and hanzais they had assembled on the bund and cliffs of 
Yokohama to do our government honor. 

From the centre of the city to the farthest outlying 
suburb and hamlet Yokohama was on parade. The prin- 
cipal thoroughfares were arched with the entwined ban- 
ners of America and Japan; public buildings, stores, pal- 
aces, and huts were covered with brilliant bunting; work 
was suspended and hundreds of thousands of loyal Japa- 
nese citizens from all sections of the country, at the nod 
of the Mikado, in gala attire, were on the streets to pay 
us tribute, although in their very hearts each one realized 
that instead of a friendly visit our fleet was but a show 
of force. 

The Japanese are a conglomerate race into which enters 
largely Malay blood, blood which for centuries has been 
shed in Java, in the Philippines, in Formosa, among the 
volcanic islands strewn along the course of the Black Cur- 
rent as far north as the Island of Kyushu and through- 

[ 288 ] 



YOKOHAMA TO KIOTO 

out Japan, in sufficient quantities to float the navies of the 
world. It is this which explains the apparent ecstasy of 
the Japanese people on the occasion above mentioned, be- 
cause of their Malay blood. It was the dying friar Mari- 
ano, who had spent his life in the Philippines in the serv- 
ice of that singular race, who said : * ' I have lived in these 
islands forty years in the closest intimacy with the Filipino 
people, and yet I know absolutely nothing of their charac- 
ter, for they are Malays. ' ' 

In spite of the brilliant national ovation and fetes, our 
plans were completed for leaving the next morning for 
Kioto, which for a thousand years had been the Sacred 
Capital of the Mikado. Our train left at an early morn- 
ing hour, thus affording us an excellent opportunity to en- 
joy the picturesque scenery along the railway which fol- 
lows the old Tokaido Highway almost the entire distance 
to Kioto. The government, which owns the railway system 
in Japan, has arranged a very comfortable daily express 
train from Tokio and Yokohama to Shimonoseki, which 
makes the entire journey in twenty-seven hours. This 
train de luxe is provided with a sleeper and diner com- 
bined, which renders the long journey both comfortable 
and pleasant and at a very reasonable cost besides. If I 
remember correctly the railroad ticket from Yokohama to 
Shimonoseki and the passage across the Japanese Sea to 
Fusan, Korea, cost only $14.25, a distance of 850 miles by 
land and sea. I may just as well add that the extra charge 
for sleeper the entire distance was $1.25, while the break- 
fasts, lunches, and dinners ranged from twenty-five to 
forty cents. It does seem, after all, that governmental 
railroad ownership is of advantage at least to the travel- 
ling public. 

After the usual battle of words at the railway station 
with the ricksha men over the cost of transportation for 
ourselves and baggage from the hotel, we reached our 
train but a few moments before its departure. Although 
a regular tariff list of ricksha charges for the guidance of 
l» [ 289 ] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

travellers has been published in every city of Japan, these 
indispensable servants of the public regard tourists as their 
legitimate prey in the Orient, as do the drivers of public 
conveyances in other parts of the world. 

Unless the traveller understands in advance what he is 
required to pay, a demand is liable to be made for double, 
nay, treble the price which, unless acceded to, results in a 
miserable wrangle a few moments before the departing 
train and at a time when the unfortunate victim is unable 
to adjust the matter with justice to himself. The trav- 
eller in Japan as well as in other parts of the world should 
keep himself thoroughly posted in such matters and let the 
fact be known at the time of engaging the transportation, 
if he hopes to travel in peace and to escape endless discus- 
sion with the hackney tribe. Disagreeable contentions with 
cabbies and ricksha men over the price of the fare fade 
away, however, into utter insignificance when compared 
with the insolence of waiters and flunkies, whose ideas in 
the matter of tips have been utterly perverted by vulgar 
parvenus desirous of demonstrating their importance by 
throwing money away for unmerited service. The ridicu- 
lous prodigality of this class of globe-trotters make travel- 
ling difficult and unpleasant for gentlemen of limited 
means and, besides, advertises as a rule the fact that their 
sires were successful brewers, or had acquired sudden 
wealth by a ''lucky strike" in the Klondike or from a 
*' strong gusher" in some Western oil field. 

On entering the sleeper we encountered a very interest- 
ing group of Japanese naval officers who were returning 
to the Naval Station of Kure after a visit to Yokohama to 
see the great American fleet. Among the number was a 
gallant old admiral who had grown gray in the service 
and lost an eye during the recent engagement with the 
Russian fleet in the Sea of Japan. The Japanese are very 
democratic in their ideas of life, no matter how exalted 
their official or social status may be. This was manifested 
by our old naval hero, who alighted at one of the small sta- 

[ 290 ] 




H 

a; 

o 

a! 
O 

<: 

X 
m 

u 

o 

Q 
< 
tq 

Q 

W 

K 

H 

O 

< 
> 

o 






YOKOHAMA TO KIOTO 

tions en route and purchased a box of lunch from one of 
the numerous peddlers for the small sum of twelve cents. 
I quite envied the old admiral as he disposed of his lunch 
with his brand new chopsticks which accompanied the 
box. 

Native lunches are put up in attractive little wooden 
boxes, immaculately white and bound up artistically with 
pale green bands of rice-straw. I could not but notice the 
contents of the admiral's lunch, which consisted of a half- 
pound of the whitest boiled rice, a prawn croquette, a small 
piece of fried chicken, a bit of white fish, a slice of egg 
omelette, farina jelly, preserved ginger and chestnuts, and 
a few pieces of sweet pickle. To accompany this delicate 
a*nd appetizing menu he had purchased a dainty little 
glazed tea-pot with a cup, which was filled with Kioto's 
choicest up-land brand of pale straw, and all for four sen, 
or two cents of our currency. 

Tea is the common beverage in Japan and is universally 
drank by peasant or noble. It matters not where you go 
or what section of the country you penetrate, you will be 
met by the inevitable cup of weak green tea. Whether 
you like it or not you must drink, and drink again, or else 
insult the hospitality of the people, nor can you ever hope 
to escape the tea-habit if you live in Japan. The choicest 
production comes from the plantations between Kioto and 
Nara in the heart of Old Japan, although the herb grows 
further north. Mr. Hillyer, who was engaged in the ex- 
portation of tea from Japan for many years, states that 
40,000,000 pounds are annually exported to America alone, 
the most going to San Francisco and New York. The best 
growth can be purchased in Japan for twenty-five cents a 
pound, although it costs thrice that sum abroad. Tea was 
introduced into Japan from China by the Buddhist priests, 
who drank quite copiously of the herb in order to keep 
themselves awake during their nocturnal vigils. 

While the admiral was enjoying his lunch his aide-de- 
camp, who was an officer with the rank of lieutenant-com- 

[291] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

mander, purchased a bouquet of chrysanthemums which 
was hung up for the pleasure of all. The Japanese are 
a Nature-loving people and the government is paternal in 
the extreme. Who else but the Japanese would require 
sterilized milk to be kept for sale at all of the stations for 
the infant class of travellers ? Thousands of lives of babes 
are thus saved yearly to the country through this wise and 
valuable sanitary order of the Mikado. Japan will need 
soldiers to fight her battles in the future in order to main- 
tain her supremacy in the Far East and every child saved 
is a warrior gained, be it male or female, for the women 
are as brave and useful as the men when it comes to war. 

The bed of the railroad between Tokio and Kioto follows 
the old Tokaido Highway, and is known as the Tokaido 
Railway, or the Eastern Sea Road. It was completed dur- 
ing the Summer of 1889. Before the Tokaido Railway was 
constructed the government was planning to build the great 
north and south artery via the Nakasendo, or the Central 
Mountain Road, which runs from Kioto through Gifu, 
Fukushima, and Oya along the central backbone of the 
country, miles from the seashore. This plan was aban- 
doned on account of the many engineering difficulties en- 
countered along the road. The Nakasendo Highway seems 
to have been originally constructed in the eighth century, 
although it has a legendary history which goes back as far 
as the year 71 a.d. It is likely that a trail passed through 
this section during the early days, when the entire country 
was in the possession of the Ainos. 

The origin of the Tokaido Highway dates back many cen- 
turies also, although its prominence did not begin before 
the seventeenth century as a result of the transfer of the 
shogunate to Yedo in 1598. From this time on the Tokaido 
became the most prominent highway in the empire and was 
practically crowded throughout the entire year. The sho- 
gun required daimios or feudal lords to beautify and main- 
tain in excellent condition those sections which passed 
through their respective provinces, so that in the course 

[ 292 ] 



YOKOHAMA TO KIOTO 

of time it became the most beautiful and picturesque high- 
way in the kingdom. The roadbed was evenly graded, 
macadamized, and covered with small pebbles, while the 
sides of the avenue were ornamented with majestic cryp- 
tomerias or fringed with the frenzied and distorted-look- 
ing rows of pines which may still be occasionally seen 
as the train hurries by on the road between Kioto and 
Tokio. Curiously enough, since the establishment of the 
railway the government officials have cut down many of the 
handsome cryptomerias on the sides of the highway in or- 
der to put up the telegraph poles and string the wires, 
which vandalism they considered in the line of Western 
progress. 

The beauty of the Tokaido, especially in connection with 
Fujiyama, has been immortalized by numerous native art- 
ists, and although the railway has in a measure done away 
with the journey by road, the great highway will ever re- 
main familiar to the admirers of Hokusai and Iliroshige. 
For centuries the powerful daimios in gilded palanquins 
escorted by glittering retinues of armed samurai and re- 
tainers made their semi-annual visits to the throne of the 
shogun at Yedo over the Tokaido, from the distant prov- 
inces of the South and West. Long processions of white- 
robed pilgrims led by chanting priests, trains of merchants 
with their packs of valuable merchandise, groups of men, 
women, and children, in kago or afoot, and bands of gayly 
attired courtesans and geisha girls, contributed to the 
endless crowds which surged backwards and forwards dur- 
ing the four seasons of the year. Like the knights-errant 
of old the two-sworded men, one sword for self-defence, 
the other for hara-kiri or the ^^ happy despatch," were 
prominent figures in the moving kaleidoscope of the old 
highway, as well as the hoi-polloi, who added to the setting 
of the numerous tea-houses and resting-sheds on the way. 

It is said that after the establishment of the shogunate 
at Yedo, which was in 1595, the Tokaido was the busiest 
thoroughfare in the Empire and more crowded than any 

[293] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

street in the gay capital. No daimio or prominent official 
was allowed to travel unattended by a suitable retinue and 
the situation corresponded exactly with the feudal days 
of Europe. The etiquette of the road was well defined 
and when the trains of two lords met passing in opposite di- 
rections, it was incumbent upon the one of lesser degree 
to draw to the side of the road with his retinue while the 
other passed by. 

The approach of a noble lord was heralded hundreds of 
yards in advance by outriders and it was customary for 
the commonalty of the people who happened to be on the 
road to step aside and make a low bow as the great man 
passed. Woe be to him who violated this social law, for if 
his life were not forfeited on the spot he could consider him- 
self fortunate indeed if left with only a maimed arm or a 
permanent injury as a result. 

Alas for the picturesque and romantic ! The Revolu- 
tion of 1868 swept away feudalism and the power of the 
daimio. The samurai has gone and his sword and spear 
have been sent to the curio shops for sale. Thousands 
of blades equal to the best Toledos have been purchased 
by tourists from the four corners of the globe, while their 
chivalrous owners have glided away into the masses of the 
people unknown and unheard of, and unfitted for work of 
any kind. The spirit of Bushido, which for untold cen- 
turies has been inherent in the breast of every true son of 
Nippon, made it possible for feudalism to pass away at the 
command of the Mikado, and for the powerful lords to re- 
linquish at once their landed holdings and muster out 
their powerful armies of samurai and retainers. With the 
abolishment of castles, landed estates, and armies, passed 
away also right to wear the sword and the badge of honor, 
and it is said that many a noble knight wept like a devoted 
mother who loses her first born, when ordered to lay aside 
forever the faithful blade which in many instances had 
been worn by his illustrious sires for generations past. 

The Tokaido follows the base of the mountainous hills 

[294] 



YOKOHAMA TO KIOTO 

and hugs the shore of the Pacific almost the entire distance 
from Tokio to Kioto, as a result of which it penetrates the 
most beautiful sections of the country and affords innu- 
merable glimpses of superb mountain and ocean scenery. 
Occasionally as the train makes a turn here and there a 
gentle deer may be seen bounding away among the hills or 
a startled hare seeking the protection of a neighboring 
copse or thicket. In 1872 the government established a 
postal route along the Tokaido between Tokio and Kioto, 
which journey required from twelve to thirteen days, but 
it is now made in as many hours by the express train. 

**Well, gentlemen," said the Major, *'as we will be un- 
able to stop at the many interesting points en route, we 
will have to be satisfied with a view from the car window 
and the descriptions given us by Professor Chamberlin, the 
principal compiler of Murray's excellent 'Hand Book of 
Japan.' " 

After leaving Yokohama we pass Oiso, which is worthy 
of notice because it has become a popular bathing-resort 
and summer residence for many of the native political 
leaders who own handsome villas on the slopes of the hills 
or close to the beach. It is said that at this quiet resort 
many meetings occur at which important policies of the 
government are dictated and cabinet officials appointed or 
dismissed. Oiso is a place of considerable antiquity and 
was mentioned in the history of the Soga brethren, whose 
deaths occurred in the twelfth century. 

Shortly after leaving Oiso we reach Kozu, the gateway 
to those famous mountain resorts, ]\Iyanoshita and Hakone. 
From this point the road passes through a country of re- 
markable beauty and climbs the hills leading to Gotemba, 
at an altitude of 1,500 feet, the services of two engines 
being required to draw the train. It will be remembered 
that Gotemba is the station where the traveller detrains to 
visit Fujiyama and is located on a broad and fertile plain 
at the base of the volcano. It was near this famous town 
that the great Yoritomo established his hunting lodge, in 

[295] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

the twelfth century, where he used to beguile with hound 
and hawk the few leisure moments he could spare from 
the cares and worries of official life. Thirty miles further 
along and after passing a number of important towns, we 
reach Sukukawa where the nearest and most perfect view 
of Fujiyama is obtained, and a few moments later Okitsu 
which is beautifully located on the Bay of Suraga and 
commands a fine view of the mountainous Peninsula of 
Izu and the wooded sand-dune of Mio-no-matsubara, 
celebrated alike in poetry and song. 

Some distance to the right lie the blue hills of Kunozan 
with the white seaport town of Shimizu clinging to their 
base. It is at Mio-no-matsubara that the scene of the 
Japanese lyric drama, **The Robe of Feathers,*' is laid in 
which the old fisherman finds the robe hanging on a tree, 
left there by a fairy goddess. He finally returns it to her 
on condition that she perform a dance only known to the 
immortals. Draped in the robe she dances beneath the 
pines on the beach and is finally caught by a breeze and 
wafted heavenwards past Fuji. A small shrine celebrates 
the spot, which contains a relic of the robe. 

An interesting visit by ricksha may be made from Okitsu 
to the hills of Kunozan where the great shogun leyasu 
was originally interred. In 1617 the body, with great 
pomp and ceremony, was transferred to Nik-ko, although 
it is claimed that his body still reposes on the summit of 
Kunozan and that only a single hair from his head was 
buried in the imperial tomb at Nik-ko. The shrine, which 
is a replica of the one at Nik-ko, though less elaborate, is 
undergoing repairs at present. The summit of the hill 
is reached after ascending 1,036 steps cut in the rock of 
the hillside. The temple site was originally occupied by 
a castle belonging to a celebrated warrior named Takecla 
Shingen, who lived during the sixteenth century, preceding 
the Tokugawa dynasty. As a precaution during siege the 
old daimio caused a well 108 feet deep to be dug, from 
which a water supply is still obtained. The compound 

[296] 



YOKOHAMA TO KIOTO 

contains the usual temple buildings, besides a handsome 
five-story pagoda. 

Eeturning from Kunozan, the traveller is usually con- 
veyed to Shizuoka, the capital of the prefecture of the 
same name, which is ten miles distant from Okitsu by rail. 
It was at Shizuoka that leyasu decided to spend the re- 
mainder of his life after abdicating in favor of his son 
Hidetada. At the time this city was noted as a place of 
learning as well as a publishing centre. For the first time 
in history many of the treasures of Japanese literature 
were printed from the original manuscripts and given 
general circulation. Shizuoka is also noted for being the 
home of Keiki, the last of the Tokugawa shoguns, who 
lived here in seclusion after abdicating in 1868. From 
this point to Nagoya, a distance of 115 miles, the railroad 
passes through a rather uninteresting country and a num- 
ber of small towns of no particular importance. A few 
miles before reaching Nagoya the road passes through 
Atsuta, which is really one of its most important suburbs 
and contains a number of Shinto temples, in one of which 
reposes the Sacred Sword, transferred from the Celestial 
Plains above by Ninigi, the son of Amaterasu, when he 
descended to earth. 

Nagoya, the capital of the province of Owari, is one of 
the most important commercial cities of the empire and for 
many years was the seat of the Daimio of Owari. The 
House of Owari, the founder of which was a son of leyasu, 
ranked as one of the "Three August Families," which 
were considered eligible for furnishing candidates for the 
shogunate. The income allowed the Daimio of Owari by 
the government amounted to 550,000 kohu of rice, which 
was equivalent to $3,000,000 per annum, quite a lordly 
income for those benighted days. 

The city of Nagoya is built upon a fertile plain and 
possesses many points of interest to the tourist. It is one 
of the chief centres in Japan for the production of the 
world-renowned cloisonne. It is also noted for the manu- 

[297] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

facture of clocks, cotton and silk fabrics, fans, lanterns, 
embroidery, lacquer, and the celebrated Seto porcelain 
wares. The most important buildings and temples which 
should be visited by every tourist who is able to remain 
several days in the city, are the castle and grounds, the 
temple of the five hundred disciples of Buddha many of 
the statues of which were carved centuries ago, the Higashi 
Hongwanji Temple, the temples of Atsuta, and the Nagoya 
museum. 

The Castle of Nagoya is one of the most remarkable ever 
built in Japan and is in an excellent state of preservation ; 
it was built in 1610 by twenty of the great feudal lords 
as a residence for Yoshinobu, the second son of leyasu. 
The principal donjon is a massive wooden building five 
stories high and resting on solid stone walls eighteen feet 
thick. Two golden dolphins ornament the summit of the 
donjon and were presented by the celebrated General Kato 
Kiyomasa at a cost of $180,000. The scales of the dolphin 
are made of pure gold and can be seen for miles around 
glittering in the sun. One of the dolphins was sent to the 
Vienna Exposition in 1873 and on its return home was 
submerged in the sea in the wreck of the steamer Nile, 
belonging to the Messageries Maritime Line, but was 
finally rescued and returned to its position on the roof. 

The grounds contain the old palace and a number of 
barracks for housing the imperial troops. Although van- 
dals, during the Revolution in 1868, destroyed many of 
the works of art which the palace contained, a number 
of excellent paintings by the Kano school still exist, among 
which are some remarkable paintings of tigers, lions, musk- 
cats, peach blossoms, bamboo, and games of tug-of-war and 
lacrosse. Prom the top of the donjon a magnificent view 
of the city can be obtained as well as the plains of Owari 
and even the distant hills among which rests the sacred 
Temple of Ise. 

Several very interesting excursions may be made from 
Nagoya, among which are the potteries of Seto, to visit 

[298] 



YOKOHAMA TO KIOTO 

which it is necessary to go by train to Kozoji fifteen miles 
distant, then by ricksha to the potteries, which are located 
in four hamlets, the best belonging to Kato Gosuke whose 
wares are noted for their transparency and whiteness. 
The Provinces of Owari and Mino for centuries have been 
celebrated for their porcelain industry, the first pottery 
having been established in 1230 by Kato Shirozaemon, who 
had learned the art in China. For centuries the Seto pot- 
teries furnished those exquisite bottles, jars, ewers, and 
other articles which were employed in the Cha-no-yu or 
tea ceremony, so popular from the fifteenth to the seven- 
teenth centuries in court circles and polite society. 

Before leaving Nagoya it is due that we should mention 
the principal hostelry of the city, the Nagoya, which was 
exceedingly comfortable and homelike. The host and en- 
tire company of assistants met us on the threshold and 
bade us enter with the warmest salutations and greetings. 
The rooms were good and well furnished and the food 
quite satisfactory indeed. Mine host employed Japanese 
maidens as waiters and attendants throughout the hotel, 
thus insuring the guests excellent service, in fact as good 
as, if not better than that received from the importations 
used in America from the other side of the Atlantic. The 
Japanese women are gentle and affable and move around 
as noiselessly as little pussy cats. Besides, they are pleas- 
ant on all occasions, polite and smiling when rendering 
a service, and grateful in the extreme for a moderate tip 
which always comes as an agreeable surprise. At seven 
o'clock in the morning a gentle tap at the door, and Violet 
or Fuehia, as the ease may be, smilingly enters with 
lacquered tray upon which rests a dainty tea-service with 
buttered toast, the tea-pot filled with English breakfast 
tea, out of deference to our English cousins who have 
established this special brand of the fragrant herb through- 
out the entire Orient. A half-hour later another tap and 
the bath is announced, hot and steaming, for no one who 
visits Japan is considered sane who bathes otherwise, even 

[ 299 ] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

the Britisher who breaks the ice in other parts of the world 
at five in the morning, in order to indulge in a cold plunge. 
The little Japanese women understand the art of making a 
man happy, and I wonder not at Sir Edwin Arnold's 
ecstasy over them and his final marriage. 

From Nagoya the railroad leaves the old Tokaido High- 
way and follows on to Gifu over the famous Nakasendo. 
Gifu is the capital of the two provinces of Mino and Hida 
and the former home of the great warrior Oda Nobunaga, 
whose castle was located on a conical hill north of the 
town named Kinkwa-zan. Raw silk and the silk of the 
wild silkworm are produced largely in the surrounding 
district and the product woven, into crepe. The glittering 
threads of the wild silk, which do not take the dye as well 
as the cultivated, are introduced into the fabric to form 
the pattern. 

The tourist who has time to see Old Japan leisurely 
should stop over a day or two to observe the curious method 
of catching fish on the Nagara River by means of cor- 
morants. These birds are trained while very young for 
the fishing industry, which is carried on at night. They 
are provided with a ring around the neck which prevents 
the birds from swallowing the large and valuable fish, and 
a cord around the body by which they are controlled on 
the water. After reaching the grounds the fisherman em- 
barks in a small boat lighted at one end, and begins to 
shout and make other noises in order to attract the fish. 
The birds which have been placed on the water in groups 
begin to dive with wonderful celerity, and in a few mo- 
ments rise to the surface with necks swollen and heads on 
the side, which indicates that they are gorged with a large 
fish. They are now drawn to the boat by means of the 
cord and after the fish is removed, returned to the water 
for further operations. This strange method of fishing 
is mentioned in the Kojiki, or '* Records of Ancient Mat- 
ters, ' ' which was compiled in Japan in 712 a.d., and is still 
employed in many districts of the country. 

[ 300 ] 



YOKOHAMA TO KIOTO 

Twenty miles beyond Gifn the village of Seki-ga-hara is 
reached, where the decisive battle in 1600 was fought be- 
tween leyasu and the allies of Hideyori, the infant son 
of the great Tycoon, Hideyoshi. The carnage was dread- 
ful and it is reported that the confederated armies lost 
over 40,000 men. In accordance with the custom of war 
at the time, the dead of the enemy were decapitated and 
the ghastly mounds, called Kubizuka, in which the heads 
were buried are still shown to visitors. After leaving 
Seki-ga-hara the road enters the mountain region and soon 
emerges along the shore of the Lake of Omi, or Biwa, as 
it is properly called, on account of its resemblance to the 
native guitar. The scenery along the shores of the lake is 
extremely beautiful and greatly varied by wooded hills, 
inlets, bights, and winding sheets of water. On reaching 
Kusatsu the most striking portion of the old Tokaido 
Highway passes in review and we cross the Setagawa where 
the lake opens out and the celebrated Long Bridge is seen. 
After passing Baba or Otsu the train passes through a 
tunnel under the Osakayama, enters a narrow valley which 
is covered with a thick growth of pine, and reaches Kioto, 
until 1870 and for over a thousand years before the sacred 
capital of the Mikado. 



[301] 



CHAPTER XXX 

KIOTO, THE HEART OF OLD JAPAN 

Arrival in Kioto — Hotels for Tourists — The Old 
Palace — The Nijo Castle — The Nishi and Higashi 
HoNGWAN Ji Temples — The Silver and Gold Pavilions 

— The Katsura Summer Palace — The Shimo Gamo 
Temple — Tai-kyoku-den Palace — The Monastery 
of Chion-in — The Famous Dai-butsu — The 1000 
Image Temple of Kwannon — Shooting the Hodzu 
Rapids — Lake Biv^a and the Eight Classic Beauties 

— The Geisha Dance. 

IT was the peaceful hour of twilight when our train 
reached Kioto, a most appropriate time of the day to 
enter the Sacred Capital of the Mikado, the Canterbury of 
Old Japan. 

*' Although I have visited Kioto at least a dozen times," 
said the Major, *'I never fail to experience a thrill of 
quiet joy in approaching this wonderful city of palaces 
and temples whose history reaches back to the dawn of the 
Japanese Empire. Yes, there is a fascination about this 
ancient capital which induces a kind of hypnotism akin to 
the languor of the lotus eater, and beguiles one into spend- 
ing weeks, instead of days. ' ' 

**I have been informed," replied the Judge, ''that no 
city in the empire can compare to Kioto in the number 
or grandeur of its temples. ' ' 

''Yes," said the Major, "Kioto was for more than a 
thousand years the imperial residence of the Mikados and 
the home of the aristocracy, which for centuries past has 

[302] 



KIOTO, HEART OF OLD JAPAN 

furnished the emperors, and many of the shoguns, prince- 
abbots, generals, and leaders of the clans. From time im- 
memorial the Mikado has been the invisible but sacred head 
of Shintoism and Buddhism, and his capital, naturally, the 
cathedral city of the empire. It was for this reason that 
thousands of priests, monks, and nuns of every sect of these 
two national religions, flocked to Kioto and founded their 
temples. It was in the year 784 a.d. that the reigning 
sovereign Kwammu moved the capital from Nara to 
Nagoya, and nine years later to Miyako or Kioto, where it 
remained, with the exception of a few years, until the 
restoration of the Mikado to the temporal power, in 1868, 
when it was transferred to Tokio. Kioto is now known as 
the "Western capital." 

As the Major concluded his remarks the train drew up 
at the central station, where we were promptly met by a 
representative of the Miyako hotel, to which a despatch 
had been sent before leaving Tokio. Kioto is provided 
with three excellent hotels, all of which are managed by 
native companies and run on the American plan. The 
Kioto is pleasantly located on the right bank of the Kamo- 
gawa River in the centre of the city, not more than ten 
minutes from the central railroad station, and is well 
patronized by foreign tourists. 

The Miyako stands on a picturesque hillside some dis- 
tance east of the river, on the Sanjo, one of the principal 
thoroughfares of the city. The hotel consists of a series of 
separate one- and two-story buildings, placed one above 
the other on the hillside, connected by corridors and sur- 
rounded by an attractive park which formerly belonged 
to the Atwata Palace. 

The Yaami, the remaining hotel which caters to foreign 
patronage is also pleasantly situated on a sloping hill in 
the Maruyama district, a suburb almost exclusively occu- 
pied by tea-houses, the resort of holiday-makers bent on 
dancing and pleasure. 

Kioto has not changed front like so many of the large 

[303] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

cities of the empire, but remains to-day characteristic of 
Old Japan and is still given over to a pleasure-loving 
and refined class of people who have not become wedded 
to the one idea of money getting, which has in a certain 
measure destroyed the interest and pleasure of Old Japan. 
The Kiotans are not willing that factories shall sully the 
sparkling waters of the Kamogawa, or that forests of tall 
and dingy smokestacks shall pollute the clearness of the 
ambient ether which surrounds their sacred hills and tem- 
ples. They would rather suffer the decadence of town and 
population than lose the classic beauty of their city. The 
capital lies in an immense valley, on either side of the 
Kamogawa, a clear mountain stream which ripples over a 
shallow pebbly bed. To the north, east, and west rise high 
and picturesque hills clothed with dense forests, and con- 
cealing within their sinuous folds and wooded glens 
numerous ancient temples rich in treasures of early 
native and Chinese art. Along the mountain-sides and 
within the exquisite gardens which surround the palaces 
and temples, grow in luxuriance the plum and cherry trees 
whose blossoms are the first harbingers of spring and 
arouse the never-dying interest and admiration of a united 
populace. 

Before the snow has melted away from the eastern 
slopes of the hillsides the plum blossom, in all its beauty 
and transparency of snowy whiteness, gladdens the heart 
of both young and old, while a few weeks later, the cherry 
tree bursts forth into delicate clouds of pink and white 
and calls forth the adoration of the entire nation. As the 
rose is the queen of flowers to the Western world, so is 
the cherry blossom the pride of Japan, and to see it in all 
its glory and beauty go to Yoshino, among the mountains 
of Yamato, or Arashi-yama near Kioto. 

And here among the hills and dales around the Sacred 
Capital of the West, during the month of April, gathers 
the native world from far and wide to assist in the Festival 

[304] 



KIOTO, HEART OF OLD JAPAN 

of the Cherry Blossom, and again, when hill and glen 
and dale and temple grounds are covered with the scarlet 
and yellow leaves of the maples in the reddening days of 
autumn. 

It is with pleasure that I recall those delightful days in 
Kioto, and the rapid transit in jinricksha from the busy 
marts of the city to some secluded spot in a quiet dale 
far out among the mountains, where we found an ancient 
temple presided over by a venerable abbot in a pale yellow 
robe. Nor can I ever forget the artistic treasures he dis- 
closed on panel and fusama, painted centuries ago by some 
master hand, perhaps "a youth to fortune and to fame 
unknown. ' * 

'*It is impossible," said the Major, after we had com- 
fortably seated ourselves in the jinrickshas provided by our 
host, '*to visit all of the points of interest of the city dur- 
ing our brief stay, so we will have to content ourselves 
with the most important. It is now nine-thirty, and if we 
are diligent we may be able to inspect the Imperial Palace 
and the old Ni jo Castle before lunch. ' ' 

When Kioto was laid out the site measured three miles 
and a half from north to south and three miles from east 
to west. The palace grounds occupied one-fifteenth of the 
entire area and were surrounded by a wall. Since then 
the grounds have been greatly reduced, but the mass of 
buildings which comprise the palace is as great as ever 
and covers an area of nearly twenty-six acres. To visit 
the palace and castle authority has to be obtained from 
the embassy in Tokio, but this can be secured by tele- 
graph if the tourist be cramped for time. Before attempt- 
ing a description of the temples and palaces of Kioto, it 
is best to remove the idea, should such exist, of a resem- 
blance between Oriental and Occidental architecture. I 
feel that I can safely say there is not the slightest simi- 
larity whatever in material or construction between the 
palaces and cathedrals of continental Europe and those 
20 [ 305 ] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

of Japan, Korea, Manchuria, or China, and when I speak 
of temples in the Orient, I compare them with religious 
buildings of the West. 

The castles of Japan, which were very numerous before 
the Revolution of 1868, also differ greatly from those mas- 
sive fortresses of stone with frowning battlements and 
circular towers which are still to be seen in ''Merrie Eng- 
land ' ' and along the ' ' classic Rhine. * ' It is well also to un- 
derstand that the temples of Japan and China were not 
altogether built for religious purposes, for they served not 
only as places of prayer and worship for the people but 
as monasteries for abbot and priest, palaces for the Mikados, 
shoguns, and great military leaders, and residences for the 
princes and noble families. 

Without a knowledge of these facts I would have been 
disappointed, after entering the walls of the palace grounds 
and traversing hundreds of yards of galleries and vast 
halls, waiting and reception rooms, throne-room and apart- 
ments which were in suites and usually separated by slid- 
ing panels. The buildings are all one story high and 
constructed of inflammable material, and so was every city 
and town of Old Japan. There is no wonder then that 
many of the most noted palaces and temples of the empire 
have been destroyed and rebuilt many times since their 
first inception. So common have fires been in Tokio, that 
when the lurid lustre of an almost nightly conflagration 
is seen, it is called a '*Yedo Blossom." Unfortunately for 
this reason some of the rarest and most valuable paintings 
and other ancient works of art have disappeared from the 
world forever. 

The original palace at Kioto was destroyed by fire in 
1177 and has repeatedly fallen a prey to the flames since 
that time. The last time it was rebuilt in 1854 it was in 
the original style as far as possible. The beauty of this 
enormous pile consists of the immense rooms and superb 
decorations in painting and lacquer. The original panels 
and frescoes are gone, but copies of copies of the handi- 

[306] 



KIOTO, HEART OF OLD JAPAN 

work of the great masters who lived during the golden age 
of art still ornament the sides and walls of the palace. 
The throne-room and divan, upon which the Mikado used 
to sit, protected from human gaze behind delicate silk 
curtains of red, white, and black, remain in situ for the 
inspection of the curious visitor. To his entourage, to 
the royal embassies from foreign lands, to the daimios 
from the provinces and the shogun, who was the real 
power, the Mikado was a shadow, a voice behind the throne ; 
to the commonalty, a god. 

The old school of painting ran to Nature subjects and 
hence one finds on walls, panels, and sliding doors, lions, 
tigers, musk-cats, eagles, herons, sparrows, besides trees, 
shrubs, and flowers. Little furniture was seen in any of 
the apartments and the floors were bare and polished or 
covered with native woven mat. European furniture was 
practically unknown in Japan before the arrival of Com- 
modore Perry in 1853, and is only used now in a few rooms 
of the wealthy natives in official or diplomatic service out 
of deference to the foreigner. From the highest nobleman 
to the lowest peasant, they sit tailor-fashion on the floor, 
eat from a table but six inches high, and sleep on thick 
grass mats. 

On passing through the throne-room we reached a flight 
of fifteen steps leading down into the court-yard below, 
each step corresponding to a special rank or grade into 
which the officers of the government were divided. 

*'We have again reached the open," said the Major, on 
arriving at this point, ''and as it is getting late, I propose 
that we proceed to the Old Castle, which we can thoroughly 
see before lunch, if we go at once. ' ' 

The Old Castle of Nijo, which is located a mile south 
and east of the palace, was built in 1569 by Oda Nobunaga 
as a residence for the shogun or controlling authority, but 
was destroyed five years later during a rebellion which was 
instigated by Akeche, one of his generals. In 1883 it 
was declared a residence for the Mikado, although the 

[307] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

grounds are used for barracks and a division of troops. 
The massive walls and the moat, surrounded by donjons, 
and pavilions with curving roofs located along the walls, 
give the entire enclosure the appearance of mediaeval days, 
when with spear and sword and banners floating in the 
air, the armored daimio, with trained samurai, would sally 
forth to punish some refractory feudal lord in a neighbor- 
ing province, or to fight the hated barbarian of the North. 
The principal donjon or keep was destroyed by fire over 
a century ago and has never been rebuilt, though the 
second donjon is in an excellent state of preservation. 

The visitor is admitted into a side door and conducted 
through the kara-mon, which is exquisitely decorated in 
metal work and painted carvings. Opposite this stands 
a second gate, through which the visitor passes and is then 
admitted into the palace proper, which is a "dream of 
golden beauty." The interior of the palace is divided into 
numerous suites of apartments intended for waiting-rooms 
for the samurai and daimios and members of the council 
of state, a hall of audience and suites of living apart- 
ments. The decorations in gold and lacquer are rarely 
equalled in the empire, while the panel and mural decora- 
tions were done by the most celebrated artists of the day. 
The third apartment, the most gorgeous of all, was the 
room in which the shoguns received the daimios, and con- 
tains a magnificent carving of a life-sized eagle. The 
fourth apartment contains the famous heron, and the fifth, 
the wet heron and sleeping sparrows on a snow-laden 
bough. 

Hidari Jingoro, the author of the ''Monkeys of Nik-ko," 
and his pupils, have left many specimens of exquisite carv- 
ing in the ramma, or ventilating panels of the palace, 
among which should be mentioned the Peacocks in the 
Obiro-ma suite, which were brought from Hideyoshi's 
famous palace at Fushimi. A peculiarity of these carv- 
ings is that, though open work, the two sides differ in 
subjects; for instance, the obverse sides of the peacocks 

[308] 



KIOTO, HEART OF OLD JAPAN 

represent peonies. Among the celebrated artists, whose 
names are linked with the paintings of the castle, are 
Kano Naonobu, Kano Koi, and Kano Tanyii. It was Kano 
Tanyu who painted the maples and pine trees so true to 
Nature, that birds which accidentally had flown into the 
room through open windows, tried to perch upon their 
boughs. 

''There are two classes of travellers who go abroad," 
said the Major, after we had finished our lunch, ''those 
who travel to see, and those who travel to be seen, and as 
we belong to the first class, I would call attention to the 
flight of time and the two temples which await our inspec- 
tion this afternoon, the Nishi-Hongwanji and the Higashi- 
Hongwanji." 

These two temples are located in the southwestern por- 
tion of the city, not far from the principal railroad station, 
and are regarded as the largest and handsomest in the 
empire. The Nishi, or the Western branch of the sect, 
was transferred to Kioto in 1591 by the order of Hide- 
yoshi. The apartments of the Prince-abbot who lives here 
are especially magnificent and nowhere in Japan can the 
decorative genius of the Kano school be seen to such 
advantage. There are many superb rooms and apartments 
in the temple, which are named after the decorations, 
among which may be mentioned the bamboo and sparrow 
room, the eagle, oak, and cascade room, the chamber of 
wild geese, the chrysanthemum room, the cedar door with 
sleeping cat, the dressing room with hunting scenes, the 
stork chamber and many other excellent paintings by 
Ryokei, Yusetsu, Hidenobu, Ryotaku, and other celebrated 
artists. The main temple or the Hondo is 138 feet in 
length and ninety-three feet wide, and requires 477 mats 
to cover the floor. 

The Higashi, which is an off-shoot from the Nishi- 
Hongwanji sect, was established in Kioto in 1692 but the 
present buildings only date from 1895. This temple is 
larger than the Nishi and fairly dazzles the eye with its 

[ 309 ] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

brilliancy of coloring and splendor, and gives the visitor 
an idea of the magnificence of coloring which the temples 
of Shiba Park, Tokio, and Nik-ko had when just finished. 
Although much has been said of the decay of Buddhism in 
Japan this temple was rebuilt by popular subscription, 
over a million yen having been contributed for the pur- 
pose, besides an equal amount in value of building ma- 
terial. So much enthusiasm was elicited at the time that 
thousands of Japanese women sacrificed their hair to be 
braided into hawsers for lifting the timbers into place. 
Twenty-nine gigantic hawsers were made of hair for this 
purpose, which are still preserved in a go-down near by. 

As I have stated before it would be impossible to visit 
all of the temples within the city and its environment 
without remaining months and then the task would become 
monotonous in the extreme. Along the hillsides and 
among the groves in the suburbs, temples, temple gardens, 
and cemeteries are encountered without end. Tier above 
tier, the headstones of the departed dead come into view 
as one ascends the hills under whose granite blocks repose 
all that is mortal of the merchant and working classes of 
the past, whose heart throbs have reechoed again and 
again in the breasts of the succeeding generations which 
followed in their tracks. 

Off to the northeast of the city stands a temple, the 
Ginkaku-ji, which has been noted since the days of 
Ashikaga Yoshimasa who abdicated as shogun in 1479 and 
passed the remainder of his life there in company with 
his favorites, So-ami and Shuko, with whom he practised 
the tea ceremonies which their patronage elevated almost 
to the rank of a fine art. This little temple, known as 
the '* Silver Pavilion," was built in imitation of the 
Kinkaku-ji, erected by one of his predecessors, Ashikaga 
Yoshimitsu, who abdicated as shogun a century earlier and 
called his retreat the ''Golden Pavilion." Yoshimitsu be- 
came tired of the world and the cares of government at an 
early age and abdicated in favor of his youthful son Yoshi- 

[310] 



KIOTO, HEART OF OLD JAPAN 

mochi. Relieved of the cares of official life, he shaved 
his head and assumed the garb of a Buddhist monk, 
though still in reality continuing to direct the affairs of 
state. The Golden Pavilion, which is located to the north- 
west of the city, stands on the edge of an attractive lake 
and is three stories high. The well known ''Junk" tree, 
a pine, which has been made to grow like a Chinese junk, 
stands in the garden of the Pavilion, and illustrates an art 
in which the Japanese excel. 

The Katsura Summer Palace, built by the great Hide- 
yoshi and presented to one of the royal princes, is located 
six miles southwest of the city. The grounds are espe- 
cially worthy of a visit, for they were laid out by the 
celebrated landscape gardener, Kobori Enshu, the most 
artistic creator of landscape effects of Japan. With cun- 
ning skill he constructed mountains, valleys, streams, and 
lakes, moss-covered rocks and stone lanterns, and set out 
trees, shrubs, and plants with the most minute detail and 
natural effect. 

The Shimo Gamo Temple which was built in 677 a.d. 
and located at the junction of the Kamo and Takano 
Rivers, north of the city, is really said to antedate the 
Christian era. According to an old legend a daughter of 
one of the gods was working beside the river when a red 
arrow winged with a duck's feather floated towards her, 
which she picked up and carried home. Shortly after- 
wards she became pregnant and gave birth to a son. The 
father was unknown, and as her parents disbelieved her 
statement that she had never known a man, they gave a 
feast as soon as the child was old enough to walk. The 
child was given a wine cup and told to present it to his 
father, but instead of taking it to any one of the company, 
he ran out of the house and placed it in front of an arrow 
which his grandfather had driven in the roof. Then trans- 
forming himself into a thunderbolt he ascended to heaven, 
accompanied by his mother. By a curious freak of Nature 
two trees outside the gate of the temple have grown into 

[311] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

one. "Women fearful of losing the affection of their hus- 
bands repair there in large numbers to worship. The 
dancing and theatrical stages attached to this old temple 
show the close relation which has always existed between 
religion and the drama. The priests in ''ye olden times" 
understood quite well the art of attracting large congrega- 
tions to their churches. 

On the hillside to the north and east, rises the Tai-kyoku- 
den Palace, which was erected in 1895, the eleventh cen- 
tenary of the founding of Kioto by the Emperor 
Kwammu, in whose honor it was built. While the build- 
ings are not more than half the size of the original palace 
it is said to be an exact replica. Behind the palace is a 
Shinto temple where Kwammu is worshipped. 

Not far away from the Tai-kyoku-den Palace stands the 
celebrated monastery of the Jodo sect, the Chion-in, which 
is only second in grandeur and size to the Hong wan ji. 
The interior of the temple is elaborately ornamented with 
carvings, lacquer, and paintings of great merit. A superb 
view of the city can be secured from the outside gallery, 
as well as of the pine-covered mountains of Hiei-zan. 
Farther up the hill is the tomb of Enko Daishi, the 
founder of the temple. His festival is celebrated from the 
nineteenth to twenty-fourth of April, and also on the 
twenty-fourth of every month, on which occasion the great 
bell is rung. 

Within the grounds of the Hoko-ji, where in former days 
an immense temple used to stand, one sees the home of the 
Dai-butsu. No one, however, who has had the pleasure of 
gazing upon the placid countenance of the great Dai-butsu 
of Kamakura, will take the slightest interest in the image 
at Kioto. Originally erected of bronze in 1588, a colossal 
image of Buddha has always stood upon this spot, but one 
after another was destroyed by fire, earthquake, or light- 
ning. The present one is of wood and consists merely of 
shoulders and head. The height of the statue is fifty- 
eight feet, the face being thirty feet long. The huge bell 

[312] 



KIOTO, HEART OF OLD JAPAN 

which is suspended near by is about fourteen feet high and 
weighs sixty-three tons, being one of the four largest bells 
in Japan, the other three being located in the Chion-in 
temple at Kioto, the Tennoji Temple in Osaka, and the 
fourth one at Nara. 

The Sanju-Sangen-do, which was the last temple we 
visited during our stay in Kioto, is located in the south- 
east portion of the city and contains a thousand life-sized 
images of Kwannon, the goddess of Mercy, which are 
ranged in long rows, five deep, on either side of a central 
figure, also representing Kwannon, but of much larger size. 
This temple was founded in 1132 by Emperor Toba and 
like many of the temples and palaces of Japan has been 
destroyed and rebuilt many times, the last time in 1662 
by the Shogun letsuna. Although there are but 1,000 
images of Kwannon in the temple, there are 33,333 figures 
of the goddess, by computing all of the smaller effigies on 
the foreheads, hands, and in the halos. While all of the 
images represent the same divine personage, no two have 
the same arrangement of hands and articles held in them. 
The large central image is surrounded by Kwannon 's 
twenty-eight followers. 

After making the rounds of many of the most promi- 
nent temples of Kioto, both Shinto and Buddhist, I was 
surprised to find how many natives still adhere, with great 
devotion, to the religions of their ancestors. Standing be- 
fore temples everywhere they were observed clapping 
hands to call the gods to witness their prayers and to ask 
blessings for themselves and families. The women of 
Japan, like women in all other parts of the world, were 
the most constant attendants and the most faithful in their 
belief. The celebration of the services by the Buddhist 
priests, the chanting of masses, burning of candles, swing- 
ing of incense burners, prostrations, genuflexions, and bows, 
reminded one strongly of the Roman church at home. It 
was the great similarity of the Christian religion, which 
Francis Xavier introduced into Japan in the sixteenth 

[313] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

century, to Buddhism that enabled the Jesuit fathers to 
proselyte the natives by hundreds of thousands, and the 
same greed of power which crops out in France, Spain, 
and Portugal, that caused the expulsion and terrible mas- 
sacre of the Catholics which followed in the seventeenth 
century. 

It was with genuine pleasure the following morning, 
after a strenuous day in visiting the palaces and temples 
of the city, that we entered our rickshas for Nijo Station, 
bent on a visit to the famous gorge of Arashi-yama and a 
voyage down the Ilodzu Rapids which is considered one 
of the most attractive and exciting trips around Kioto. 
The railroad journey from the station to the town of 
Kameoka requires fifty minutes and then a ten-minute 
walk to the village of Hodzu where the tourist embarks to 
shoot the rapids. The railroad journey to Kameoka is 
exceedingly picturesque, as the line runs along the shores 
of the foaming river and discloses scenery which is ravish- 
ing in beauty. The steep hillsides are covered with a 
thick mat of deep green pines, while the glens and folds 
below along the valley are fringed with maple and cherry 
trees. Many of the cherry trees were brought from 
Yoshino in the thirteenth century by the Emperor Kame- 
yama and attract pilgrims from the outlying districts dur- 
ing the season of the blossom. 

The most attractive feature of Japan to me is its scenery, 
and I marvel not at the ^stheticism of this race born 
under the inspiration of such natural beauty. I have al- 
ways been a lover of Nature and would rather a thousand 
times live under the influence of majestic mountains, end- 
less plains, or restless ocean than in the gayest capital of 
the world. 

I love to be in touch with Nature, to watch the early 
birth of Spring and to catch the first tinge of verdure as 
it covers meadow, field, and dale. I love to watch the 
swelling of the buds which later burst forth into the deli- 
cate coloring of the apple, peach, and cherry blossom, and 

[314] 



KIOTO, HEART OF OLD JAPAN 

to find the tiny pink flower of the trailing arbutus, that 
early harbinger of Spring which unfolds its modest beauty 
long before the last veil of snow disappears from the warm- 
ing slope of the eastern hillside. I love to watch the 
tasselling of the corn in June, the waving fields of golden 
grain, and to hear the lowing of the cattle on the distant 
hills. And when the dog-days have gone and the corn is 
in the shock, to see the purple of the heather and the 
brilliant shades of autumn coming on. It is indeed a 
heritage, a glorious privilege, my friends, to have seen the 
light of day far from the surging throng and garish lights 
of beetling street. 

"To him who, in the love of Nature, holds 
Communion with her visible forms, she speaks 
A various language: for his gayer hours 
She has a voice of gladness, and a smile 
And eloquence of beauty; and she glides 
Into his musings with a mild 
And gentle sympathy, that steals away 
Their sharpness, ere he is aware." 

The boats in which the tourist embarks at the village 
of Hodzu are large, broad of beam, with flat bottoms, and 
can accommodate about six passengers. The crew usually 
numbers four men and the journey requires from one and 
a half to two hours. The excitement of the trip begins 
shortly after leaving Hodzu and continues unabated until 
almost within the sight of Arashi-yama, where the boat 
enters quiet water. 

The bed of the river is very rocky most of the distance 
and is hemmed in here and there by narrow passages be- 
tween artificially constructed embankments of rock, where 
the river rushes along with eddying current. The rapids 
are very numerous along the upper portion of the river 
and ofttimes the boat narrowly escapes destruction as it 
swirls by projecting rock or hindering islet. 

In spite of the pleasure of the excitement one expresses 

[315] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 



H 



a sigh of relief as the boat glides out upon the placid 
waters and ties up along the shores of Arashi-yama. The 
traveller who has plenty of leisure and is fond of scenery 
should order his ricksha to await him at Arashi-yama and 
return to the city, via the Golden Pavilion, by attractive 
country roads ; otherwise he must return by rail from Saga. 

Among others of the pleasant outings from Kioto, is a 
trip to the Lake of Omi or Biwa, as it is popularly called, 
on account of its fancied resemblance to a Japanese guitar. 
This beautiful lake, whose classic shores can be seen from 
the car window en route to Gifu, may be reached over the 
Hiei-zan range, or by train or ricksha to Otsu. Should 
the tourist decide to make a pedestrian trip over Hiei-zan 
to the lake, he should take a ricksha across the flats to 
Shira-kawa which is at the foot of the highest point of the 
mountain. The view from the summit is superb, and in- 
cludes a magnificent panorama both of Kioto, which lies 
in the valley to the west, and the shores of the lake to 
the east. 

During the Middle Ages this mountain range was cov- 
ered with Buddhist temples and monasteries, to such an 
extent that the monks became a menace to the peace of the 
city and would swoop down upon it after the manner of 
banditti. On account of their lawlessness, in the year 
1571 Oda Nobunaga, Hideyoshi's great general, burned 
over 3,000 of their buildings and put hundreds of the 
monks, nuns, and their children to the sword. 

The journey afoot during pleasant weather makes a 
charming outing for the young and sturdy, but is too 
strenuous for those not accustomed to long walks. A 
number of interesting old temples are still in existence 
which may be seen in the parks and groves on the eastern 
slopes of the range. From Shimo-Sakamoto rickshas 
should be taken along the shore of the lake to Utso, from 
which point one may return by train, ricksha, or the canal. 
E71 route to Utso at the village of Karasaki, the visitor 
should make a halt to inspect the monster pine tree, 

[316] 




'See no evil, speak no evil, hear no evil" 




Famous carved monkeys, by Hidari Jingoro, 
NiK-Ko, Japan 




Interior of Temple of Mats, Sacred Island, Japan, 
decorated with wooden rice spoons 




Castle at Osaka, Japan 



KIOTO, HEART OF OLD JAPAN 

famous all over Japan, one of the oldest, and perhaps the 
most remarkable tree, in the world. While the tree is 
only ninety feet in height some of its branches extend out 
380 feet from the trunk and are supported by a series of 
scaffolding, consisting of wooden legs resting on stone 
cushions. 

Lake Biwa is the largest interior body of water in the 
empire and is thirty-six miles long by twelve in width. 
Almost every mountain, stream, or valley in Japan has a 
legend and so has Biwa. It is said that the lake owes its 
existence to a great earthquake which occurred in 286 b. c, 
when also Mount Fuji arose out of the Plain of Suraga 
at the same moment. The southern and eastern shores of 
the lake are especially beautiful and picturesque and have 
been the subject of poet and artist for many centuries. 

The eight classic beauties of Biwa, which have become 
the subject of native artists are as follows: The ''Autumn 
moon seen from Ishiyama,'* the ''Evening Snow in 
Hirayama,'^ the "Sunset Glow at Seta," the "Evening 
Bell of Midera," the "Boats sailing back from Yabase," 
a "Bright Sky with a Breeze at Awazu," "Rain by 
Night at Karasaki," and the "Wild geese alighting at 
Katata." In 1889 a canal joining Lake Biwa with the 
Kamo River in Kioto was opened, thus connecting the 
lake with Osaka Bay. This splendid piece of engineer- 
ing was accomplished by a young native engineer, Tanabe 
Sakura, without foreign assistance, and at a cost of eight 
million yen. The return trip to Kioto by this canal is 
very interesting and passes through three tunnels, the 
first being a mile and a half long, the second 400 feet, 
and the third a half-mile long. Boats on arrival at Kioto 
pass down an incline into the Kamo River canal, in 
wheeled cradles, by electric power. 

We had passed three delightful, but strenuous days in 
Kioto, and were enjoying a quiet cigar the evening before 
our departure for Nara, when one of our shipmates from 
Manila, familiarly known as "Blinks" throughout the 

[317] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

army, appeared iipoii the scene and invited our party to 
attend a geisha dance, which he had arranged at a prom- 
inent tea-house in Kyogoku, the gayest centre of the city. 
As a special inducement we were informed that a dozen 
star graduates from the Royal Geisha School were to 
participate, so there was nothing left but to go. 

The charm of the Japanese singing and dancing girl 
has been the theme of poetry and song for countless ages 
in Dai-Nippon, and the tea-houses the Arcadia of the 
youthful sports during the shades of evening. Kioto is 
noted for its dancing-school and special dances, many of 
which are ancient and greatly patronized. The No dance, 
or classic drama, is only attended by the cultivated and 
refined classes. Generally speaking, foreigners would ap- 
preciate the declamatory and pantomimic frenzy of this 
classical lyric about as much as the ordinary Japanese 
would understand Wagner's Trilogy. 

The story of Japan in fact opens with song and dance, 
according to the mythological legend of the Sun-Goddess, 
who was lured from her cave of darkness through the 
accomplishments of the beautiful Uzume. The geisha girl 
is indeed but a step from the dancing and singing priest- 
esses of the sacred Shinto temples at Ise and Nara, whose 
ceremonial no doubt originated with the first geisha, 
Uzume, before the cave of Amaterasu, at the dawn of 
Japan's history. 

After a ricksha ride of twenty minutes we drew up 
before a rather pretentious looking building and were con- 
ducted into a handsomely appointed room in the second 
story. The mats which, covered the floor were of the 
finest weave, while the wood trimmings and paper panels 
decorating the sides and walls w^ere artistic and refined. 

It was not very long after our arrival before the 
dramatis personce fluttered in, looking like a flock of trop- 
ical birds in their magnificent robes patterned after birds 
and flowers, and brilliant ohis which gave them the ap- 

[318] 



KIOTO, HEART OF OLD JAPAN 

pearance of gorgeous butterflies. None of the girls ap- 
peared to be more than twelve years old, though who 
can reckon age when protected by an artistic mask of 
enamel and paint. Yes, the little geishas were charming, as 
long as they grouped themselves in true Japanese style 
around their guests, or w^ere busily engaged in passing 
sahe^ which was mild at first but exhilarating in 
the cakes and sweetmeats, or Kioto's choicest brew of 
inspiration. 

The flowing bowl had made its fifth and final round 
before the first fairy stepped upon the floor and executed 
a pas seul with the dexterity of a Parisian ballet girl. 
This was followed by other geishas in pairs, who affected 
singular and curious posing movements accompanied by 
weird and doleful songs, while the band of three plainly 
dressed women produced most discordant sounds on the 
samisen. 

It was not until the benign influence of sake began to 
surge through artery and vein that the acme of the enter- 
tainment was reached, and now by threes and fours the 
geishas rushed upon the floor, executing symmetrical but 
contradictory movements, and with shrieks and yells in- 
terpreting, no doubt, ancient tales of the long ago. The 
entertainment would have been far more interesting had 
we known the story which they so graphically tried to 
represent. 

There are Western critics who rave over the discordant 
sounds of Japanese lute and samisen and go into rhapsody 
while listening to the hoarse and high-keyed notes of 
Japan's ancient drama. I do not pretend to be a musical 
critic but I have heard the funeral chant of the Indian 
squaw in the ceremony of her dead, the song of pain from 
the young warrior during the tortures of the Sun Dance, 
and the fierce war-whoop of the dreaded Sioux on the 
"Western plains, and I am free to confess that these, 
compared to the Olle! Olle! of the geisha girl when the 

[319] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

inspiring sake has wrought its work, sound like the low, 
sweet lullaby of a gentle mother at the cradle-side ! I 'was 
really glad when the entertainment was over but will 
carry in mind, while memory lasts, the far-famed Geisha 
Dance of Old Kioto. 



I 



[320] 



CHAPTER XXXI 

NARA, THE ANCIENT CAPITAL OF DAI-NIPPON 

Departure for Nara — Tea District op Uji — Japan *s 
Thermopylae — The Ancient Capital of Nara and the 
Modern City — Yamato, the Cradle of Japan — The 
Mounds and Dolmens of Its Ancient Rulers — The 
Avenue and Roads of the Park — Sacred Bands op 
Deer — Temples and Museums — The ICagura Dance 
— The Crumbling Temples of the Plain — The 
HoRYuji — Osaka, the Chicago op Japan — A Modern 
Japanese Banquet — The Sights of the City — The 
Old Castle and Tennoji Temple — Osaka by Gas- 
light. 

AT an early hour the morning following the geisha dance 
we were well on our way to Nara, though our souls 
were still lingering with fondest recollections in the Im- 
perial Capital of the West. No one, who has ever visited 
that quiet, fascinating city, can fail to appreciate its 
exquisite charm or resist the seductive spell, which chains 
one to it. Our train had left the ancient town of Fushimi 
and the lofty hill of Momoyama upon which the great 
Hideyoshi had built his palace, as the picturesque range 
of Hiei-zan surrounding Kioto, disappeared from our 
view. 

''The hill of Momoyama," said the Major, ''marks the 
field of one of the most sanguinary battles fought during 
the Revolution in 1868, between the partisans of the 
shogun, and the Imperial forces, and, besides, is the site 
of the grandest palace ever built in Japan. This superb 
21 [ 321 ] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

structure was erected in 1593 by order of Hideyoshi, the 
Napoleon of Japan. Although every trace of the palace 
has disappeared, the priceless works of art which it con- 
tained have been distributed among the temples, museums, 
and palaces of Kioto and include many golden screens, 
fusamas, bronzes, and carvings, executed by the most cele- 
brated artists of that day." 

The railroad from Kioto to Nara, only twenty-six miles 
distant, crosses the Yodogawa, the outlet of Lake Biwa, 
Uji, the most famous tea-growing centre in the empire, 
and is well worth a visit during the tea-picking season. 
A few miles before reaching Uji the train stops at Kobato 
from which station an interesting ricksha trip may be made 
to Obaku-san, where stands a massive Buddhist temple, 
surrounded by extensive grounds founded in 1659 by a 
Chinese priest named Inzen. The three principal build- 
ings of this old temple, the Tenno-do or Emperor's Hall, 
Hondo or Main Hall, and Hatto or Storehouse, are in 
good condition. The Hatto contains a complete set of 
wooden blocks (60,000) for printing the Chinese version 
of the Chinese canon. 

A quarter of an hour up the river on the Kioto side 
the bridge is reached which crosses the Yodogawa and con- 
ducts the tourist to Uji's chief sight, the ancient Temple 
of Byodo-in, erected in 1052 a.d., near the theatre of 
that wonderful Japanese Thermopylae, where the famous 
warrior, Yorimasa, with 300 men at one end of the bridge, 
withstood 20,000 of the Taira host, long enough for his 
lord. Prince Mochihito, to escape. After many feats of 
remarkable prowess and with but a handful of his 
faithful band remaining, he retired within the sacred 
precincts of the holy temple and calmly ended his life by 
falling upon his sword. 

Within the temple grounds will be noticed a curious 
building known as the Phoenix Hall, which is built in the 
shape of the phoenix-bird. Originally it was considered 
very beautiful but it is now rapidly approaching decay. 

[322] 



NARA, ANCIENT CAPITAL 

The two-storied central portion represents the body of 
the bird, the right and left corridors and colonnades the 
wings. A corridor in the rear forms the* tail. Many 
handsome paintings and decorations attest the original 
beauty of the temple, although now badly damaged by 
exposure to the tempests and storms of many centuries. 
The altar was originally covered with gold lacquer inlaid 
with mother-of-pearl and doubtlessly presented a gor- 
geous appearance when new. 

In order that the world shall ever bear in fond remem- 
brance the virtues of their soil and the superiority of the 
local shrub, the planters, in 1887, erected in the temple 
grounds a large stone monument in honor of the Uji tea. 
And well may they sound the praises of Uji's fragrant 
leaf which for centuries has been the chosen brand among 
the voluptuaries of the Cha-no-yu. 

Tea was introduced into Japan from China in 805 a.d. 
by the Buddhist saint, Dengyo Daishi. The largest tea 
district exists southwest of Fuji, in which 62,000 families 
are engaged in the culture. The tea-picking season begins 
the last of April or first of May, when the entire district 
has the appearance of a fete champetre. At this season 
the fields are alive -with men, women, and children who, 
with joyous shout and happy smile, are engaged from morn 
till night, in picking off the early tender leaves which consti- 
tute the choicest portion of the crop. 

As soon as possible, after picking, the leaves are placed 
in round wooden trays with wire bottoms and held a half- 
minute over steaming water, after which they are placed 
in wooden frames and fired over charcoal. The curled 
or twisted shape of the leaf is effected by being rolled 
in the palms of the hand. The ordinary tea sold in tea- 
houses costs from ten to twenty-five cents per pound, while 
the higher grades bring from fifty cents to a dollar. The 
Kioto and Uji teas, which rarely leave the country, range 
from five to ten dollars per pound and are considered a 
great delicacy. Since the opening of Japan in 1854, it 

[323] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

has become one of the great tea-producing countries of the 
world and sends across the Pacific to America alone each 
year 40,000,000 pounds. 

During the summer-time Uji becomes very popular with 
the people of Kioto, who flock there in large parties to 
watch the fire-flies, so numerous at that season. Long 
before the advent of gas, electricity, and oils for lighting 
purposes in Old Japan, the student class often read by the 
light of the fire-flies, which were confined by the hundreds 
in small cages arranged for the purpose. 

''My friends," said the Major, on reentering the train 
at Uji for Nara, ''within the hour we will reach that 
sacred region where Dai-Nippon, in primeval days, awoke 
from mountain plain and fen to find itself a nation. 
Yes, it is here in the province of Yamato, but a few 
miles from the old capital of Nara, that the tumulus was 
found which contains all that is mortal of the great Jimmu 
Tenno, the Romulus of Japan and founder of the Empire. 

' ' You will remember that Jimmu, according to the myth- 
ological origin of the people, descended from the Sun- 
Goddess Amaterasu and that he received a commission 
from Heaven to subdue the wdld tribes of the land. After 
a voyage of uninterrupted military successes through the 
Inland Sea, he finally located his capital at Kashiwa-bara, 
in the Province of Yamato, where he was buried at the 
age of 137, after a successful reign of seventy-five years. 

"Until 784 a.d. the Imperial capital was confined to 
Yamato or adjacent provinces, as a result of which the 
country is dotted over with the tumuli of the succeeding 
rulers whose graves have received scant attention, either 
from the simple country folk, or official circles. Burial 
in dolmens or mounds was customary in Japan until the 
eighth century, with rarely an inscription to mark the 
name of the deceased. Hence, of the many Mikados, 
princes, and notables who died preceding the abandonment 
of Nara, but few of their final resting-places are known. 

"While the fertile plain of Yamato has been the cradle 

[324] 



NARA, ANCIENT CAPITAL 

of the Japanese race, we can find nothing to mark the 
site of their ancient courts. It must be remembered, 
however, that until this period a strange superstition pos- 
sessed them which made it impossible for an Emperor to 
live in the capital occupied by his predecessor. The anal- 
ogy between the burial customs of these ancient rulers and 
those of that curious tribe, the Igorots, who are of Malay 
origin and live on the mountain plains of Benguet in the 
Philippines, forges with greater strength the chain of evi- 
dence which links the primitive Japanese to the Malay 
race. To this very day the Igorots destroy by fire the 
habitations of their dead, after the seven-days' feast and 
burial service are over." 

By the time the Major had finished his disquisition 
on the burial places of the ancient Mikados, we had 
reached Nara, which is the very heart of Old Japan. 
The populous city originally occupying the great plain 
at the base of the mountains has disappeared as if by 
magic, and nothing is left to mark its once crowded site 
except a small town, nestling on the undulating slopes 
of its wooded hills, and a dozen or more sacred temples 
scattered along its forest-clad avenues. 

The once teeming plains with crowded streets and busy 
marts have become transformed into wretched farms, now 
the homes of simple peasant or country boor. Although 
slumbering in the glories of its past, the priceless foot- 
prints which remain will evoke the wonder and admira- 
tion of the visiting stranger, as long as glade and dell 
and wooded hill protect them from the mould of time. 

From the station a broad well macadamized avenue 
leads directly towards the park in which the principal 
temples and buildings are located. Beyond the village a 
mile away, and near the main torii leading into the park, 
the traveller passes the Ki-kusui hotel, a charming little 
native inn where excellent food and accommodations may 
be obtained. In a gentle vale beyond, and at the foot of 
a prominent ridge upon which the Nara hotel is located, 

[325] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

an exquisite lake with curving shores reflects at eventide 
the massive five-storied pagoda which crowns a neighbor- 
ing hill. 

After a delightful lunch in the garden of the inn, we 
proceeded at once down the long, wooded avenue of the 
park which was intersected here and there by excellent 
macadamized roads, lined with majestic cryptomerias, 
Lebanon cedars, and spreading maples. Bands of tame, 
spotted deer, with soft and lustrous eyes, crowded around 
our rickshas as we passed along, and mutely pleaded for 
the little cakes which are conveniently sold to the tourist 
as food for these sacred animals. It is said that the 
bucks are dehorned in the fall of the year, in order to 
prevent them from injuring the tourists. Rather than 
suspect these gentle creatures, it would be safer to im- 
pugn the motives of the oJSicials in charge, who no doubt 
reap a rich harvest from the sale of the antlers to the 
carvers of horn. 

At the end of the principal avenue of the park is located 
the ancient Shinto temple of Kasuga-no-miya, founded 
in 767 A. D. and dedicated to the Fujiwaras who for cen- 
turies were regents to the throne. This wonderful, old 
temple is approached by an avenue lined with massive 
stone lanterns, which gives it an impressive appearance, 
although all Shinto temples are characterized by sim- 
plicity of architecture. Generally speaking there is 
nothing significant of devotion about a Shinto temple ex- 
cept the sacred symbols, the sword, mirror, and jewel, 
which are supposed to have been brought to earth by 
Ninigi, the grandson of the Sun-Goddess Amaterasu. 

In a room in this temple are the armor and helmet of 
the famous Yoshitsune, half-brother of the great Yoritomo, 
the first shogun, whose injustice to Yoshitsune has never 
been forgiven by the Japanese people, although nine cen- 
turies have come and gone since then. At an early age, 
Yoshitsune became a brilliant warrior and is to-day the 
idol of the Japanese youth. It was he who won the 

[ 326 ] 



NARA, ANCIENT CAPITAL 

great naval fight at Dan-no-ura in which the power of 
the Tairas was forever broken and the ascension of his 
brother, Yoritomo, to the shogunate made possible. 

A short distance from the entrance to the main temple 
the visitor reaches a small building in which the ancient 
religious dance called the Kagura is performed. The 
young priestesses were attired in wide, red, divided skirts, 
with white undergarments and long gauzy mantles 
adorned with the Kasuga crest of wistaria. The hair 
hung down behind and the faces were enamelled with a 
thick white paste. 

During the dance, which consisted of a series of poses, 
one of the three priests played on a bamboo flute while 
the others produced noisy sounds by clapping sticks. 
The gymnastic movements of the priestesses were accom- 
panied by hand and arm gestures, during which small 
bells or bunches of wistaria were waved. Before the per- 
formance had concluded the Major disappeared in the sur- 
rounding forest, evidently having entirely lost interest in 
this curious, but deadening religious ceremony. 

It is not my intention to burden the pages of this 
itinerary with a description of the numerous Buddhist 
and Shinto temples within the wooded park now preserved 
by State or sect, nor even one of the many, crumbling in 
decay, upon the plains of Nara. These melancholy relics 
within abandoned temple groves appear as disembodied 
spirits floating though the mist of time. No longer da 
they proudly lift their glittering roofs among the mighty 
eryptomerias, which like faithful shepherds have for cen- 
turies sheltered them from tempest and from storm, nor 
do their halls resound with ringing bell or chanting priest, 
or muffled tread of slippered feet, for thuey are crumbling 
in the palsied hands of death. But among the temples 
and buildings of Nara which should be visited by the 
hurried traveller are besides the Kasuga-no-miya just 
mentioned, the Ni-gwatsu-do, a picturesque Buddhist 
temple, the Todaiji which encloses the famous bell of 

[327] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

Nara, the celebrated Image of Buddha, and the National 
Museum which is rich in its collections of mediseval armor, 
early manuscripts, precious lacquers, prehistoric pottery, 
and specimens of porcelain from all of the kilns of the 
country. 

The Ni-gwatsu-do temple is built on piles along the 
steep hillside and is reached by a long flight of stone 
steps. The front is ornamented with rows of handsome 
brass lanterns which give it the appearance of fairy- 
land as their lights twinkle among the foliage of the 
park. This temple was originally dedicated to Kwannon, 
the Goddess of Mercy, and is said to contain a tiny cop- 
per image which possesses the wonderful quality of pre- 
serving the temperature of living flesh. The image is 
exposed for adoration on the eighteenth of every month. 
From the wide gallery which encircles the building a 
superb view may be obtained overlooking the plains of the 
ancient city. 

The great bell enclosed in the Todaiji, was cast in 732 
A. D. and weighs thirty-six tons. For the small sum of one 
sen the guardian allows the tourist to strike it a blow 
wdth the suspended log used as a clapper. The sound 
of the bell is deep and musical and can be heard for miles 
when the atmosphere is right for conveying sound. For 
three full minutes long it mumbles to itself after being 
struck. 

Not far away down the hill from the great bell the 
colossal Buddha sits enclosed in an inartistic building 
which is altogether unworthy of this ancient Image. 
This great bronze figure dates from 749 a. d. and was the 
source of the inspiration, which led Yoritomo, the first 
shogun, to erect the one at Kamakura. The image sits 
upon lotus flowers and is fifty-three and one-half feet 
high. Like most Japanese temples, the building which 
surrounds the Dai-butsu has been destroyed by repeated 
fires. The original statue remains intact except the head 
which fell oS. in the latter part of the sixteenth century, 

[328] 



NARA, ANCIENT CAPITAL 

but it has been replaced by a new one which is not re- 
garded as satisfactory. 

Outside of one of the gates which leads into the en- 
closure occupied by the great Buddha, stands the 
National Museum. The many valuable paintings and 
other works of ancient art which it contains renders this 
museum one of the most valuable store-houses in the 
empire for the study of ancient and media3val national 
development. 

Far out upon the plains of Nara, stands the Horyuji, 
the most ancient and possibly most interesting Buddhist 
temple of all Japan, and no one who visits the sacred 
capital of Nara should fail in going there. This an- 
cient sanctuary was founded in 607 A. d., shortly after 
Buddhism had filtered into the country from Korea, by 
Shotoku Taishi who is still regarded as one of the most 
wonderful men ever produced by Japan. This great 
prince and ruler was the second son of Emperor Yomei, 
and served for thirty years as premier, or regent, during 
the reign of Empress Suiko, his aunt. It was Shotoku 
who gave to Buddhism its first impulse in Japan and 
stimulated among the powerful families the erection of 
hundreds of costly temples throughout the Empire. He 
was not only a great promoter of the new religion but 
an exemplary ruler and patron of Chinese literature and 
art. 

Horyuji may be visited in ricksha, or better still by 
train, by those en route to Osaka, for it lies on the rail- 
road only a few miles beyond Koriyama. Visitors will 
find on arrival priestly guides who are very willing to 
conduct them through the temple grounds and show them 
the priceless treasures of the place. Not many years ago 
the Imperial Government became the patron of Horyuji 
and ever since has contributed largely to its support. 

Among the mass of buildings within the Nam-mon or 
Southern gate, and two-storied Ni-o-mon, repaired in 1902, 
are the Gilded Hall and five-storied Pagoda, which are 

[329] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

the oldest wooden buildings in Japan and take the student 
of Japanese architecture back to the first essays on this 
art. The buildings of Buddhist temple compounds differ 
often with the sect, though all of them usually include 
the two-storied gate, belfry, main temple, reliquary or hall 
of bones, priests' apartments, reception rooms, treasure 
house, kitchen, cistern for washing the hands before wor- 
ship, pagoda, revolving library, torii and stone lanterns, 
the latter being presented as offerings. Besides the above 
mentioned buildings special shrines are frequently built 
in temple enclosures to favored gods. 

Within the temple grounds of Horyuji stands an oc- 
tagonal shrine to Yokushi, the god of medicine, which like 
many Roman Catholic shrines is fairly covered with 
votive offerings. The building is almost hidden under a 
large number of short swords placed there by the bene- 
ficiaries who, in this manner, attest their restoration to 
health and, at the same time, make an offering to their 
favored deity. Numerous mirrors, hair-combs, and pins 
from women also decorate its sides, and hundreds of drills 
are piled along its ledges as evidence of cures from 
deafness. 

After leaving the treasure rooms, which contain an in- 
finity of statues, bronzes, kakemonos, and other works of 
art, the visitor reaches the Hall of Dreams, an octagonal 
building erected in the thirteenth century and divided 
into two parts, one of which is called the Eden or Painted 
Apartment on account of the brilliant painting it con- 
tains. To the right is the Shari-den, or Place of the 
Relic, which is said to contain the pupil of Buddha's left 
eye. This holy relic is enshrined in a crystal reliquary 
encased in seven damask wrappings, but is exposed to 
worship every day at noon in honor of the Sun-God. 

Among the most valuable objects shown to the visitor 
is a kakemono representing Shotoku Taishi seated at a little 
table, holding a hand screen. This painting of the Great 
Teacher is said to be thirteen hundred years old. There 

[330] 



NARA, ANCIENT CAPITAL 

is also another portrait of Shotoku in the temple, which 
represents him at the age of sixteen, in red robe and 
black mantle. Besides the main temple the compound 
contains a convent of nuns who show with infinite pre- 
caution two ancient pieces of hand-embroidery, one of which 
was done over thirteen hundred years ago, the other five 
hundred years later. It would be impossible to describe 
the many wonderful statues to Buddha, exquisite frescoes, 
paintings, and works of ancient art which this unique 
and historic temple contains, without imposing on the 
patience of the reader. I will therefore finish my brief 
description of the famous temple by advising every one 
who passes across the sacred plains of Nara to visit 
Horyuji. It is said of Bishop Phillips Brooks, the 
famous scholar, traveller and divine, that of all the holy 
places in the world which he had visited, none so moved his 
soul as Nara. 

The lingering rays of the setting sun were gilding the 
western sky as we entered the train for Osaka, which was 
less than one hour away. Four consecutive days we had 
passed in the closest study and observation of holy tem- 
ples in the sacred capitals of Kioto and Nara, and my 
soul was becoming steeped in the mysterious metaphysics 
of Buddhism and the simple *'Way of the Gods." We 
had seen the glories of Shiba and Ueno Parks in Old 
Yedo, the splendors of the Mausoleum of leyasu on 
the mountain-side at Nik-ko, and had stood entranced 
before the Image of Buddha upon the pine-clad shores 
of Kamakura. For six weeks we had wandered far and 
wide, over hill and dale and mountain-side, and never 
failed in copse or wooded dell, to find a shrine to some 
strange heathen god. 

Whence arose the source of this great fertilizing flood 
from India which had transported the soul of Dai- 
Nippon and absorbed the simple faith of their divine an- 
cestors? When Buddhism swept over Japan in the 
sixth century it adopted Shintoism, the primitive religion, 

[331] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

as a tenant and a century later had become the national 
religion of the land. Buddhism in Japan paralleled 
Romanism in feudal Europe, until the Reformation, when 
Shintoism, like Protestantism, revolted. 

*'The two great religious cults of Japan, Mr. Rhodes,'* 
said the Judge, as we were approaching the lights of 
Osaka, ''next to the origin of its people, are the most 
engrossing themes of thought and study connected with 
the development of the country, and if agreeable, I will 
be pleased at some opportune time to give you the benefit 
of my researches on the subject." 

On arrival at the Osaka hotel, a comfortable and well 
appointed hostelry for American and European guests, 
we found a banquet in progress, the occasion being a con- 
vention of Japanese journalists who, doubtless, like their 
American colleagues, had gathered together to discuss the 
interests of the guild. A hasty peep into the banquet- 
hall disclosed a company of a hundred or more well- 
groomed Japanese gentlemen, wearing the conventional 
smoking- jacket of the West and using knife and fork in- 
stead of chop-sticks. A Portuguese band was discoursing 
popular Spanish airs, among which were heard the 
familiar strains of ''La Paloma'' and '*La Golondrina," 
the latter being the "Home, Sweet Home'* of Mexico. A 
well-arranged programme had been prepared with a toast- 
master, and no doubt several Chauncey Depews and Henry 
Wattersons sat around the festive board to enliven the 
feast with wit and humor when toasts became the order of 
the hour. 

In an adjoining room a committee of merchants and 
prominent business men were holding a smoker and pre- 
paring plans for the reception of the delegation of Ameri- 
can business men from San Francisco, who were shortly 
to visit Osaka and other principal cities of the empire. 
The hotel is very spacious and among the many dining- 
rooms is one capable of seating four hundred guests. 
The manager, who had spent many years in the United 

[332] 



NARA, ANCIENT CAPITAL 

States, informed us that the Osakans very frequently in- 
dulged in large dinner parties, served according to the 
European menu. Restaurants furnishing European food 
have become very popular among the Japanese recently, 
and unlike the other nations of the Orient, they are more 
than anxious to adopt every custom of the Occident. 

The great metropolis of Osaka, commonly known as the 
Chicago of Japan, is the second city of the empire and 
contains a population of a million people. Conveniently 
located on both banks of the Yodogawa near its estuary 
with the Bay of Osaka, it eclipses all other cities of the 
empire in commerce and manufacture. Over 5,000 smoke- 
stacks break the sky-line at present, which are quite sig- 
nificant of the number of its factories. A large island 
in the centre of the city divides the river into two broad 
channels and adds much to the beauty and pleasure of 
the place. 

Numerous canals and dykes also intersect the city, which 
remind the traveller of Holland's waterways. At even- 
tide, during the summer months, hundreds of pleasure- 
boats lazily drift up and down the river freighted with 
gay parties bent on pleasure, or in quest of the cooling 
breezes which sweep down the mountain-sides. With 
music, merry shouts of laughter, and brilliant fireworks 
during the evening hours, the Yodogawa becomes a con- 
spicuous rival to the Grand Canal of the Queen of the 
Adriatic. 

Besides its commercial side, Osaka possesses an inter- 
esting history and several landmarks which add greatly 
to the pleasure of the traveller. Nowhere in the empire 
was a more majestic castle or sumptuous palace built than 
on the great hill overlooking the valley and city. It 
was in 1583 a. d. that Hideyoshi began this stupendous 
pile, the remains of which fill with admiration the visitor 
of to-day. Thousands of laborers were drawn from all 
parts of the country and the work was completed in the 
marvellous space of two years. During the Revolution 

[333] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

of 1868 the forces of the shogun set fire to all the wooden 
structures within the fortress, hence to-day nothing is 
left but the Cyclopean walls and moats. The visitor who 
gazes upon those massive granite bowlders, some of which 
are forty feet long by ten wide, will wonder how this 
race of Lilliputs ever raised them to the summit of the 
hill and placed them in the wall. 

It was in 1615 a.d. that leyasu besieged the castle then 
occupied by Hideyori, the son of the great Tycoon, upon 
whose deathbed, leyasu swore to place him upon the 
shogun throne. Fearing that he would be unable to found 
the Tokugawa dynasty, should Hideyori become shogun, 
leyasu declared that he was plotting against the peace 
of the State and marched against the town and castle. 
The bodies of Hideyori and his mother were never found 
after the battle which terminated in favor of leyasu, 
it being supposed that they were reduced to ashes during 
the conflagration which followed. 

Among the other attractions of the city are the National 
Mint, the Higashi and Nigishi Hongwanji, and the an- 
cient temple of Tennoji which was founded in 600 a. d. 
by the great Shotoku Taishi, the first patron of Buddhism 
in Japan. This famous temple is well worthy of a visit 
and possesses several features not commonly found in the 
other holy sanctuaries of the empire. Opposite the 
shrine dedicated to the patron saint stands the great 
bell which is only rung at the death of a celebrant, so as 
to call the attention of the Prince-Saint who is supposed 
to conduct the soul into paradise. This enormous bell 
weighs 155 tons and is said to be the largest in the 
world. It is sixteen feet long, twenty-five feet in circum- 
ference and eight feet wide at its mouth. 

Not far away stands a building which contains a curi- 
ous stone chamber into which water continually streams 
through the mouth of a tortoise. Often during the day, 
weeping mothers may be seen passing into this sacred 
stream the names of their departed babes, with a prayer 

[334] 



I 



NARA, ANCIENT CAPITAL 

to the Great Saint to meet their souls upon the long 
and lonesome road of death. Within the Golden Hall is 
seen a shrine to Kwannon which contains the first 
Buddhist image brought from Korea to Japan, although 
the priests in the ancient temple of Zenkoji at Nagano 
claim priority in this line and inform the tourist that 
the triple image of Amida and his two followers reached 
Japan in 552 a. d., a full half century before Tennoji 's 
famous Kwannon arrived. 

*'My friends," said the Major, after we had disposed of 
a satisfying dinner and were enjoying our evening smoke, 
" I am positively depressed from brain-fag, and if com- 
pelled to visit another temple I am sur« I shall become a 
confirmed neurasthenic. ' * 

*'I, too, am suffering from the strain of endless trips 
to holy shrines and temple grounds," replied the Judge, 
''and can deeply sympathize with the patient traveller 
who is forced by aesthetic companions to gaze upon the 
thousands of yards of three-starred saints, madonnas, and 
holy families in the cathedral towns of sunny Italy." 

"We are here for pleasure as well as business," added 
the Major, *'aiid I suggest that we spend our last night 
in Osaka in visiting the Coney Island of the town. ' ' 

A few minutes later we had engaged rickshas and were 
bowling rapidly towards the Dotombori Canal, along 
whose sides lie the theatres, variety shows, and gay res- 
taurants of the city. The streets were brilliantly lighted 
and crowded with a motley but good-natured throng, among 
whom appeared conspicuously a goodly number of the 
tourist world. Before the most pretentious theatres brass 
bands were blaring forth in discordant tones ''Yankee 
Doodle," "A Hot Time in the Old Town" and similar 
American airs, which no doubt had the same effect in 
drawing crowds as did the hoochi-koochi tunes on the Mid- 
way in Chicago during the World's Fair of 1893. Gestic- 
ulating touters, before the smaller booths, were descanting 
on the marvels of their shows to the merry, gaping rabble 

[ 335 ] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

passing by. While the shows were in progress the restau- 
rants and food-stands were filled with men, women, and 
children who, no doubt, had come to Dotombori to have a 
good old-fashioned time. The Japanese beat America far 
and away on the temperance question, although they have 
never suffered from the canteen agitation which since 1901 
has become a qucestio vexata before the American public. 
For amidst that surging mass of commonalty not the slight- 
est sign of intoxication was in evidence, although all the 
shops sold sake and lager beer. Before returning to the 
hotel that night, we visited many of the amusement places 
of the district, and found order, good humor, and hon 
camaraderie everywhere. 



[336] 



CHAPTER XXXII 

THE SHINTO RELIGION — ARRIVAL OF THE 
CHRISTIAN MISSIONARIES 

From Osaka to Kobe — Native Beep and Sake — The 
Shinto Religion — Its Gods and Fetichism — Ances- 
tor Worship on Kudan Hill — Togo 's Speech to the 
Spirits of His Dead Sailors — Teachings op Shinto- 
ism — Early Roman Church in Japan — The Advent 
op Protestantism — Doctors Hepburn, Brown, and 
Verbeck — The Work op Missionaries in the Orient 
— Statistics op Christianity in Japan — Altruism 
op American Missionaries in the Orient and Far 
East. 

ALONG the crescentic shores of Osaka Bay, not more 
than twenty short miles from the great metropolis 
itself, lies Kobe, the favorite seaport town of Japan, and 
the Eastern Gateway to the Inland Sea. From Osaka as 
far as Nishi-no-miya we traversed a broad and fertile plain 
thickly dotted with peaceful hamlets and smiling fields 
of golden rice, with here and there a summer resort where 
Ferris wheel and coasting railway bespoke the Coney Is- 
land of modern Nippon. From this point until the train 
reaches San-no-miya, the station for the foreign settle- 
ment, the plain narrows down to a mere strip along the 
sea coast. 

The journey from Osaka to Kobe, if made during the 

late afternoon hour, is pleasing in the extreme. To the 

north lie the majestic hills high above the city, bathed in a 

purplish haze from the setting sun, while to the south 

22 [ 337 ] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

stretch the iridescent waters of the bay as far west as the 
picturesque and pine-clad shores of Awaji, which forms 
with the mainland, the eastern entrance to the Inland Sea. 

''Kobe," said the Major, as we sat smoking our after- 
dinner cigars in the lobby of the Grand, ''is par excellence, 
the commercial metropolis of the empire, for it exceeds in 
exports and imports every other city in Japan." 

"Besides," added the Judge, "it is the principal mart 
for two very important native products, beef and sake." 

"That is true," replied the Major, "for practically all 
the beef raised in Japan comes from the northwest Prov- 
ince of Tajima, and every connoisseur of the national bev- 
erage knows that the very best sake comes from Nada, two 
miles east of Kobe, on the plain this side of Osaka. Sake 
is to the Japanese what beer is to the German, wine to the 
Italian, and pulque to the Mexican ; light, stimulating and 
fairly agreeable if warmed. It is made from rice and con- 
tains a smaller percentage of alcohol than sherry wine 
which it resembles in odor and flavor." 

"Pardon me. Judge, but you remember the promised 
discourse on the two national religions of Japan, made 
on our departure from Nara. The day is too far spent 
to become better acquainted with Kobe, and if agreeable 
to the Major, I would suggest that you favor us this 
evening. ' ' 

"By all means. Judge," said the Major; "let us have 
the story at once." 

"I believe you will agree with me, my friends," said 
the Judge, "that we have devoted more time to temples, 
since our arrival in Japan, than to all of the other points 
of interest combined. And this is only natural because the 
thousands of temples and shrines which greet the eye at 
every turn represent the history and development of the 
country from its earliest dawn. 

"When Japan awoke from her prehistoric slumber in 
660 B.C., she found Shintoism enthroned as the national 
religion. Not the political cult which it became a thou- 

[338] 




Q 

X 
u 

w 

X 

o 

s 

< 
w 

H 

OS 

w 

H 
O 



W 
en 

W 

< 

< 



THE SHINTO RELIGION 

sand years later when the Mikados and divine warriors be- 
came the prominent gods in its pantheon, nor yet a thou- 
sand years later still after the subtle and refining influences 
of Confucius and Buddha had wrought so many changes 
in that simple faith. 

''In those primeval days, before the conquest of the 
primitive tribes by the Great Jimmu, Shintoism was the 
worship of nature, in which every mountain, stream, and 
wooded copse possessed a tutelary god. There were gods 
to the winds and storms, to fires, pestilences and floods, to 
earthquakes and famine, and indeed to the very pot in 
which they boiled the wild-boar slain with their rude spear 
of stone. 

''Each of these gods, great or small, had to be appeased 
by prayer and peace offerings through their intermediaries, 
whether it was the bear of the north, the fox of the south, 
or the militant badger, who were believed to be able at 
times to assume the human form. They had the power to 
bless the votaries of their gods, to predict the future, pro- 
duce good crops, remove pestilences and famine, control 
storms, abate conflagrations, and restore peace. 

' ' Shamanism and Shintoism went hand in hand in those 
ancient times and even to-day, it is said, that rarely can 
you meet a Japanese farmer, mechanic, or member of any 
trade, who does not wear or carry an amulet or charm which 
he regards with the greatest reverence and superstition. 
So far indeed does fetichism extend in the Land of the Ris- 
ing Sun, that it is rare to find a native house to-day, un- 
protected against fire, lightning, earthquake, or plague, by 
the fetich insurance policy of some Shinto priest. 

"When the Divine Warriors conquered Japan they ab- 
sorbed the primitive faith of the natives and elevated the 
Mikado to the heart of Shintoism. Jimmu 's generals be- 
came founders of temples and later were worshipped as 
gods, and thus the ancient Kai-no-michi of the simple is- 
landers became the political religion of Shintoism or the 
*Way of the Gods.' The Yamato men added their own 

[339] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

stock of fetich to the original creed and claimed the Mikado 
as representative and vice-regent of heaven and superior 
to all the earthly gods. 

''It was at this period of its history that ancestor wor- 
ship became a prominent feature of Shintoism, now a 
national ceremony during the semi-annual festivals held 
at the Kudan Shrine in Tokio. It was for this reason that 
the great Togo, blood-stained and begrimed from the de- 
struction of Rodjestvensky's fleet in the Sea of Japan, 
hastened first to the Sacred Shrine at Ise to worship the 
ancestors of his majesty, the Emperor, and the spirits of 
Japan's illustrious dead before reporting in Tokio. 

''Could any one present ever forget the weird scene en- 
acted on that cloudless morning in October on the green 
hills of Yedo by the great Admiral in honor of his dead? 
There before the simple pine altar draped in cotton cloth 
of spotless white, with the few modest symbols of the Shinto 
faith, and surrounded by the mourners of the combined 
fleet, he spake to the souls of the dead sailors as follows: 
*The clouds of war have disappeared from sea and shore 
and the whole city, with peaceful, placid hearts like that 
of a child goes out to meet the men who shared life and 
death with you and who now return triumphant under 
the Imperial standard, while their families wait for them 
at the gates of their homes. Looking back we recall how, 
braving the bitter cold and enduring the fierce heat, you 
fought again and again with our strong foe, and while the 
issue of the contest was still uncertain you went before us 
to the grave, leaving us to envy the glory you had won by 
your loyal deaths. We longed to imitate you in paying 
the debt we owe to sovereign and country. Your valiant 
and vehement fighting always achieved success. In no 
combat did you fail to conquer. Throughout ten months 
the attack on Port Arthur continued, and the position was 
determined. In the Sea of Japan a single annihilating 
effort decided the issue. Thenceforth the enemy's shadow 
disappeared from the face of the ocean. This success 

[ 340 ] 



THE SHINTO RELIGION 

had its origin in the infinite virtues of the Emperor, but 
it could not have been achieved had not you, forgetting 
yourselves, sacrificed your lives in the public service. The 
war is over. We who return in triumph see signs of joy 
everywhere. But we remember that we cannot share it 
with you and mingled feelings of sadness and rejoicing 
struggle painfully for expression. But the triumph of to- 
day has been purchased by your glorious death and your 
loyalty and valor will long inspire our navy, guarding the 
Imperial land for all time. We here perform this rite 
of worship to your spirits, and speaking something of our 
sad thoughts, pray you to come and receive the offering 
we make.' 

**0n the completion of this address the admiral laid 
the Sakaki on the altar, which consisted of a branch of the 
Cleyera Japanica tied with white paper. 

*' Tribute to the nation's honored dead and adulation 
of their virtues call forth the highest emotions of patriot- 
ism and arouse a desire for emulation among the country's 
youth. The ancestor worship of the Shinto faith is a beau- 
tiful feature of their religion, one well worthy of imitation 
among Western nations whose gods have become money- 
bags and heroes, manipulators of merciless trusts and mo- 
nopolizing corporations. 

'*It is indeed inspiring to see the lowly peasant toiling 
over mountain, vale, and plain to reach the holy shrines 
of Ise or Izumo, where he can pour out his pent-up feel- 
ings of love and patriotic sentiment in honor of the illus- 
trious dead, who through sacrifice and heroic deed, have 
made his country and fireside realities. 

**The tenets of Shintoism are few and the ceremonial 
and ritual very simple. The faithful are enjoined to obey 
the commands of the Mikado, worship the spirits of the 
illustrious dead, and follow their natural impulses. But 
this is not all, because the ideal of the cult is to cultivate 
cleanliness and purity in personal and household arrange- 
ments, to live simply and honestly and to observe the pre- 

[341] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

cepts of the Golden Rule, wliicli makes it an acceptable 
faith after all. 

"Great stress was placed on absolute cleanliness by the 
ancient devotees of the cult, pollution was considered a 
calamity and defilement a sin. Anything that could defile 
the body was looked upon with abhorrence and detestation, 
while physical purity was holiness. 

''Disease and wounds were considered especially defil- 
ing, while births and deaths were regarded as beyond the 
pale to such an extent that expectant mothers and the dy- 
ing were transferred to special huts which were subse- 
quently burned. The priests were required to undergo 
careful ablutions and to attire themselves in spotless 
garments before making the sacred offerings or chanting 
the liturgies. Purification by means of water and common 
salt was a part of the ceremonial, which accounts for the 
presence of the temple well. 

*'The guild of the priesthood during the early histoiy 
of Shintoism was appointed from special holy families and 
frequently from the nobles and relatives of the Mikado. 
The priestly garb consisted of a long, loose gown, with 
wide sleeves and a girdle at the waist, which was only worn 
during the morning and evening service. During the day 
they dressed like other men and were permitted to marry 
and carry on any business or occupation they desired. 

''While this curious and ancient religion has no sacred 
book and does not recognize heaven or hell, there is by 
implication immortality of the soul and a heaven of some 
neutral tint where the spirits of the dead are supposed to 
abide. This condition was emphasized in ancient times 
by the burial of the retainers and members of the house- 
hold with the lord and master in order that he might have 
companions doAvn the long and lonesome road of death, 
as well as to-day on Kudan Hill, where the spirits of the 
departed heroes are called during the semi-annual national 
festivity given in their honor. 

"Every Japanese who offers up his life through noble 

[342] 



THE SHINTO RELIGION 

or patriotic motives becomes a god and is enrolled among 
the deified protectors of the realm. It is partly through 
this belief that the soldiers and sailors so freely offer up 
their lives in defence of country. The deified heroes oc- 
cupy many ranks and grades, the spirits of the Mikados 
naturally occupying the highest spheres. Ilachiman, the 
son of Empress Suiko, whose birth was unnatural and di- 
vine, having been carried three years in his mother's 
womb, as the God of War stands in the loftiest cadre of 
them all. 

''The Shinto ceremonial is very simple and the temple 
plain and unfurnished. Besides the polished steel mirror, 
the gohei or white paper strips, and the straw rope which 
envelopes the temple, the place is bare. The mirror is in- 
tended to reflect the impurities of the soul, the paper strips, 
gifts to the gods, and the straw rope to exclude evil 
spirits. 

''In front of the temple stands the torii, originally in- 
tended as a perch for the chanticleer which announced 
the break of day and the hour for prayer. Sometimes 
at eventide may be seen a number of priests in green vest- 
ments sitting on a dais playing strange musical instru- 
ments, while below stand the worshipful celebrants, clap- 
ping their hands to call the attention of the gods to their 
simple prayers and offering a few sen to appease their 
anger. 

"Shintoism, it is said, has no moral teaching except the 
inculcation of patriotism. Motoori, one of the greatest 
disciples of the cult in the seventeenth century, stated 
that morals were invented by the Chinese because they 
were an immoral people, but in Japan there was no neces- 
sity for any system of morals, since every Japanese acted 
properly by following his honest impulses. 

"Besides the orthodox worship of the pure Shinto cult 
there are many superstitious ceremonies performed by the 
ignorant classes, and it is not infrequent that one sees 
women rolling well masticated paper into balls and throw- 

[343] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

ing them at the temple gods with a prayer, believing that 
if they stick their desire will be granted. In a few of the 
older temples the ceremony of the Kagura dance is per- 
formed by young girls who go through a variety of panto- 
mimic posing and movements. During the service small 
trays with rice, sake, fish, fruits, and other foods are placed 
on the altar to appease the gods. 

*' Singular as it may appear, Shintoism, the native re- 
ligion, practically became obliterated during the thousand 
years which elapsed from the introduction of Buddhism 
and Confucianism, with which it had become amalgamated 
as Rijobu Buddhism. After the Revolution of 1868, and 
with the national growth and patriotism, a demand was 
again made by the great progressive party of the people for 
the reestablishment of the ancient native faith, and the 
rehabilitation of the Shinto shrine. 

**This is believed, however, to have been a purely patri- 
otic movement, because the moral code of Confucius and 
refining influences of Buddhism have, in a large measure, 
been succeeded by the Western cult of aesthetic agnosticism 
and materialistic philosophy among a large majority of 
the educated classes. 

**And now, gentlemen,'' said the Judge, after lighting 
a fresh cigar, "I intend to conclude my discourse to-night 
with a very brief account of Christianity in Japan, for it 
is too late to discuss Buddhism. This interesting subject 
we will postpone until to-morrow evening if agreeable. 

**You will remember that in a previous conversation in 
regard to the early establishment of the Roman Catholic 
Church in Japan and the terrible consequences which fol- 
lowed its eradication, I mentioned that Francis Xavier 
was enticed to the Land of the Rising Sun through the 
glowing accounts of a native named Anjiro who had been 
educated at the Jesuit College of Goa. Although the great 
Jesuit evangelist remained less than two years in Japan, 
he succeeded in planting missions which secured 300,000 
converts during the succeeding thirty years. 

[344] 



I 



THE SHINTO RELIGION 

''The holy fathers first directed their attention to the 
daimios and leading men, through whom they were enabled 
to reach with great certainty the rank and file. So much 
power were the rulers able to exert over the peasantry 
that these were driven from their ancestral homes by thou- 
sands unless they accepted the cross of Christ. It was 
through such drastic and coercive measures that entire 
fiefs, consisting in some instances of 20,000 souls, changed 
their religion in a single day. 

''While these wide-spread conversions were in progress 
the Buddhist priests were driven from the communities, 
their temples enveloped in flames, and the magnificent im- 
ages and works of art hacked to pieces. Unfortunately 
the Catholic invasion of Japan at this time was a political 
movement and was encouraged by the Kings of Portugal 
and Spain with the hope of acquiring territory, by the 
Pope in order to augment the Church, and by the daimios to 
gain foreign trade. 

"Both Nobunaga and Hideyoshi, who lived at that time, 
befriended the Catholic Church, partly because they hated 
the Buddhist priests and partly because they feared their 
rebellious spirit and militant strength. It was some time 
after 1587 that one of the influential court physicians 
informed Hideyoshi that the holy fathers were directing 
every effort in their power to the conversion of the nobles 
in order to secure for themselves political power. Hide- 
yoshi, it is said, laughed at this reasoning, until he visited 
Kyushu, where he found the entire country had become 
Romanized. 

"The great successes of the Portuguese traders and 
priests in Japan began to excite the jealousy of the Span- 
ish traders and monastic orders, in spite of the fact that 
the Pope had declared Japan entirely Portuguese territory 
for trade and the Cross. About 1590 the San Felipe, a 
Spanish galleon from Manila, with a rich cargo and a 
number of Augustinian friars, was stranded on the coast 
of Japan and the captain, in order to overawe the local 

[345] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

authorities presented a map of the world, showing the tre- 
mendous possessions of Spain and her great power. 

" 'How did Spain acquire these vast possessions? ' asked 
the unsuspecting son of Nippon. 

'* 'By first sending priests to induce the people to become 
Christians, after which the task became easy,' replied the 
captain. 

* ' Little did the indiscreet sailing-master realize the boom- 
erang he had cast, for the conversation, which was repeated 
to Hideyoshi, infuriated him to such an extent that he 
immediately ordered the Augustinian friars, together with 
three Japanese Jesuit priests and several native converts, 
to Nagasaki where they were crucified on the cliffs of 
Pappenberg overlooking the harbor. 

** Owing to civil wars, which engaged the attention of the 
shogun from 1592 until 1598, further inimical action was 
suspended and in fact little was done until leyasu issued 
his fearful edict of 1614 which finally resulted in the san- 
guinary wars on the island of Kyushu, during which all 
of the Jesuit fathers were banished and tens of thousands 
of the native converts killed. The Japanese government 
emerged successful from this frightful conflict, but only 
through sealing the country to the world for two and a 
half long centuries of dreary isolation. 

*'In spite of their terrible experiences the emissaries of 
the Catholic Church were the first representatives of 
Christianity to enter Japan after the treaties resulting 
from Commodore Perry's visit in 1853-54. They arrived 
in 1858 and were promptly followed by Protestant min- 
isters of the Presbyterian, Dutch Reformed, and Episcopal 
Churches in 1859 and the Baptist in 1860. 

''Among the most notable of these leaders of the ad- 
vance-guard was Doctor J. C. Hepburn of the Presbyterian 
Church, who will ever be held in sacred memory by the 
Japanese people on account of his noble and gentle nature 
and the altruistic character of his work. A physician by 

[346] 



THE SHINTO RELIGION 

training, he spared no effort to save life and pain among 
the thousands needing medical care. 

''There were also Doctors S. R. Brown and G. F. Ver- 
beck, both of whom have left indelible traces upon the 
shores of distant Nippon. Dr. Brown became a wonder- 
ful factor in educational work in Yokohama and left among 
his students many of the ablest Christian ministers and 
prominent officials of the empire. 

''Doctor Verbeck gained a high place as an instructor 
in an institution which subsequently became the Univer- 
sity of Japan. He became the trusted adviser of some of 
the highest officials of the new government who needed 
the wise counsels of this great missionary leader. To Doc- 
tor Verbeck belongs the distinction of being the only for- 
eign teacher upon whom a decoration was conferred by 
the emperor. 

"In 1873 Doctor Nathan Brown arrived in Japan, a dis- 
tinguished minister and scholar of the Baptist Church who 
had served almost a quarter of a century as a missionary 
in India. Although sixty-five years old and broken down 
in health through his long residence in malarial Assam, 
this wonderful old soldier of the Cross again buckled on his 
armor and responded to the 'call of the East.' While but 
a student at "Williams College, where he graduated in 1827, 
he wrote that exquisite poem entitled 'The Missionary's 
Call.' 

" ' My soul is not at rest. There comes a strange 
And secret whisper to my spirit, like 
A dream of night, that tells me I am on 
Enchanted ground. Why live I here? The vows 
Of God are on me and I may not stop 
To play with shadows, or pluck earthly flowers, 
Till I my work have done and rendered up 
Account. The voice of my departed Lord, 
Go, teach all nations, from the eastern world 
Comes on the night air, and awakes my soul.' 
[347] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

"During his residence in India he translated the New 
Testament and many books, tracts, and hymns into the 
Assamese language, besides attending to his active minis- 
terial labors. After a residence of but three years in Ja- 
pan he succeeded in acquiring the language and translating 
the New Testament into Japanese, besides a number of 
hymns, all of which were printed in a press of his own 
establishment. Dr. Brown was a scholar of rare literary 
ability and no doubt would have left a great name in the 
field of letters had he devoted his life to that calling. 
Crowned with years and honors this consecrated Christian 
warrior died at his post of duty, in Yokohama, January 
1, 1886. 

*'As a result of the two long centuries of persecutions 
to which the Catholics were subjected before the arrival 
of Commodore Perry in 1853, the sentiment against the 
Christian religion in Japan had arisen to a condition of 
intense hatred and most naturally the first Protestant 
missionaries were regarded as spies sent to prepare the 
way for the subjugation of the country by the nations they 
represented. It required considerable time before even 
the intelligent classes learned that Protestant Christianity 
was non-political and hence not a menace to their 
government. 

"When the treaty was made between Japan and the 
other nations clauses were inserted authorizing freedom 
of religious worship and the abrogation of the trampling- 
board, which was still in force and so objectionable to 
Christian sentiment. It will be remembered that the Jap- 
anese officials until the Treaty, required every one, with 
the oath of abjuration, to trample on the crucifix which 
was stamped on a copper plate arranged for the purpose. 

"For a long period after the initiation of the new 
regime the missionaries found it unsafe to leave the envi- 
ronment of the free ports on account of the intense feeling 
against the reintroduction of Christianity, especially in 
the rural districts where considerable opposition exists to- 

[ 348 ] 



THE SHINTO RELIGION 

day. Conditions have greatly changed since then 
among the Japanese and with them a difference in the 
sentiment of the people regarding the missionaries, who as 
a rule are now beloved, revered, and respected. 

**The Japanese should not only glorify the early mis- 
sionaries with reverence and affection, but the entire na- 
tion should feel indebted for the uplift imparted by that 
consecrated band of men and women who braved the dan- 
gers of the long voyage, the acute revolutionary perils of 
the day, and personal sacrifices sustained in leaving coun- 
try, home, and friends. 

* ' While these soldiers of the Cross have not accomplished 
a complete success in turning the nation to Christianity, 
no one who intelligently studies the Japan of to-day will 
remain unmindful of the magnificent results which have 
been accomplished along the lines of education, philan- 
thropy, and morality. Many of the private schools and 
colleges, medical clinics and dispensaries, hospitals and 
asylums, directly or indirectly owe their existence to the 
altruism of the missionaries, not only in Japan, but over 
the entire Orient. Besides the great blessings resulting 
from their hundreds of educational and benevolent insti- 
tutions, they have been the agents for inculcating the high 
ideals of Christian morality and advanced enlightenment 
along the lines of the economics of every-day life. 

*'The great change in the status of womankind in Japan, 
China, Korea, India, Turkey, and Persia may be almost 
directly ascribed to the influence of the missionaries from 
America, England, and other Christian Protestant coun- 
tries. It is a great pleasure to note the aspirations of the 
downtrodden sisterhood in the Orient at this time and the 
difference between their present and previous status of 
servant, slave, or concubine. 

* ' The introduction of illuminating oils, sewing machines, 
agricultural and manufacturing implements, and many ar- 
ticles of commerce never before called for in the Oriental 
trade of our merchants, attest the widely civilizing influ- 

[349] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

ences of the missionary bands which have permeated every 
nook and cranny of the Orient and Far East. 

** While there is no way of estimating the valuable work 
which they have accomplished for the good of the world 
at large every unprejudiced mind should realize that their 
every-day life and example must have been an inspiration 
to the untutored minds of these less favored countries. 
The American missionaries especially carried greater influ- 
ence than those from other nations for the very reason 
that the ' Land of the Free and Home of the Brave ' stands 
for so much among the peoples of the world in the way of 
progress, freedom, liberty, and protection. Christianity 
walks hand in hand with the best in everything that is 
national, educational, political, and social, as may be at- 
tested by a review of those nations, states, municipalities, 
educational institutions, and societies where it presides. 

** While the statistics are not very clear on the subject 
it is definitely known that the Christian sects in Japan to- 
day contain a congregation of over 150,000 souls, divided 
among the various Protestant and Catholic denominations. 
Besides these, the Young Men's Christian Association and 
the Salvation Army number many thousands of members, 
and are accomplishing excellent results among the young 
men of the country and the commonalty among which the 
latter finds its principal field. 

''It is unfortunate that one must listen at times to the 
sneers and criticisms of some who speak lightly of the mis- 
sionary and his work. These ill-favored remarks made 
no doubt in a spirit of jest, thoughtlessly or through dense 
ignorance are often directed to the comparative elegance 
of their homes and extravagance of living when compared 
to that of their flocks. These critics do not realize that 
Americans and Europeans would imperil their lives by liv- 
ing in habitations and on food to which the Oriental has 
become accustomed through countless, generations.'' 



[350] 



CHAPTER XXXIII 

THE ARRIVAL AND HISTORY OF BUDDHISM 

Condition of Japan on the Arrival op Buddhism — De- 
velopment OF THE Country under Buddhistic Influ- 
ences — Condition of the Philippines during this 
Period — Birth and Early Life of Buddha — His 
Mother — The Renunciation — His Life in the 
Wilderness — Enlightenment and Temptation — 
The Four Principles — Cardinals for the Guidance 
OF Mankind — Monasteries and Monks — Buddha's 
Moral Code — Buddhistic Creation of the World — 
Transplantation of Buddhism to Japan — Arrival of 
Confucianism — Riyobu, or Mixed Buddhism. 

WHEN Buddhism," said the Judge, in continuing 
his discourse on the native religions, the following 
evening, *' drifted across seas from Korea, the Land 
of the Morning Calm, with its rich argosies of learn- 
ing, culture, and arts, it found benighted Japan struggling 
against barbarism, dense ignorance, and internal dissen- 
sions. Although there was the semblance of a govern- 
ment, with headquarters in the Province of Yamato, no 
cohesion existed between it and the unruly tribes which 
constituted the nascent nation, nor indeed was there any 
permanency to the capital itself, which until 710 a. d. was 
migratory in character. 

''The population of the country was probably less nu- 
merous than that of Mexico during the reign of Monte- 
zuma, when the early navigators from Spain first invaded 
that primitive empire and found the country and people 

[351] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

equally low in the scale of national development and civi- 
lization. The arts of reading and writing had not reached 
Japan at this time, hence its people were submerged in 
the densest ignorance and superstition. 

** Agriculture, which was of the crudest nature, was lim- 
ited to the cultivation of a few patches of rice-lands here 
and there and manufacture, to the rudest implements and 
tools. Outside of a few oxen and cattle, domestic animals 
were unknown. There were no hogs, sheep, or goats, and 
the horse was regarded as a curiosity. The most primitive 
huts were used as dwellings, and save for a few trails, roads 
were unknown. 

** Japan will ever remain a debtor to the cult of the gen- 
tle Buddha, for it was through his emissaries and disciples 
that Dai-Nippon has become justly celebrated for its brave 
and intelligent people and the country for the beauty and 
development of its valleys, plains, and mountain-sides. It 
was Buddhism, reinforced by Confucianism, which intro- 
duced reading and writing, the sheet-anchor of all people's 
uplift from savagery. These were followed in turn by lit- 
erature, art, dramatic poetry, history, and folk lore. 

** Along with social and intellectual activity, followed 
political organization, manufacturing, and agricultural de- 
velopments, among which may be mentioned the introduc- 
tion of oranges, pottery, and the silk-worm industry. Mil- 
itary roads with bridges of solid masonry began to per- 
meate the land, regularly laid out cities sprung up, and fine 
houses and palaces took the place of primitive huts. Mis- 
erable shrines gave way to gilded temples with sweeping 
roof, recurved eaves, many-columned auditoriums, and im- 
posing gateways. The plain torii made of trunks of trees 
was changed to hewn stone or polished wood and even 
gilded with Sanskrit monograms or tablets with Chinese 
letters. Indeed no other element has been so potent in the 
development of the Japanese people, 

*' 'So vivifying was the touch of the Aryan intellect 
as expressed by the cult of Buddha,' says Doctor Griffis, 

[352] 



I 



HISTORY OF BUDDHISM 

*that a native school of art sprang up at once, and a circle 
of poets led by Utomaro sang. Artists in the joy of 
achievement made temple scenes of ravishing splendor that 
filled Yamato with grace and beauty.' 

** Under these same religious and educational influences 
Japan has reached the highest pinnacle of modern civiliza- 
tion and stands to-day in the front rank of the great pow- 
ers of the world. The net-work of railroads and telegraph 
lines, which bind the remotest corners of the empire, thou- 
sands of smoke-stacks that break the sky-line throughout 
the land, unsurpassed agricultural and educational devel- 
opments, cities and towns, universities, colleges, and public 
schools, general culture and refinement of the masses, to- 
gether with the organization and solidarity of their gov- 
ernment, attest the wonderful and liberalizing influences 
of this pagan religious cult. 

*'Not far away in the Southern Seas where balmy 
breezes, sunny skies, and fertilizing rains clothe mountain- 
side, valley, and plain in a perpetual garb of verdure, lies 
a group of isles whose wretched peoples had been rotting 
away during three long centuries of pitiless misrule and 
thumbscrew government under the monastic orders which 
followed in the wake of the Adelantado Legaspi and Fray 
Urdaneta. 

''The observing traveller, fresh from happy, prosperous, 
intellectual, Buddhist Japan, who entered Manila before 
Old Glory floated over Santiago with its clanking dungeon 
cells, no doubt wondered at the mediaeval Philippines and 
the wretched semi-savages who had been fostered and 
cared for by the holy fathers during that long period of 
cruelty and eternal wrong. 

**It was only necessary to go beyond the limits of 
Manila to learn what few changes for the better had taken 
place in the islands since Rome assumed command. In 
place of railroads and telegraph lines he would have found 
blazed trails and impassable country roads; for thriving 
cities and towns, miserable puehlos and harrios composed 
23 [ 353 ] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

of nipa huts and hovels; for great universities, colleges, 
and public schools, a few educational institutions with 
mediaeval faculties which prohibited intelligent thought 
and restricted mental growth; for public schools, seques- 
tered parochial classes in which the catechism and the 
miracles of the saints formed the entire curriculum; for 
agricultural development, small patches of rice, cane, and 
tobacco; for a universal language, a hundred primitive 
dialects; for chastity, truth, and honesty, immorality, 
lying, and petty larceny; for law and order, organized 
bands of outlaws and murderers; for peace, happiness, 
and prosperity, misery, squalor, and poverty; for educa- 
tion, literature, art, and culture, ignorance, bigotry, feti- 
chism, and superstition ; for freedom of speech, press, and 
religion, dungeon cells, banishment, and the garrote; for 
a liberal government, an overbearing and tyrannical 
theoeracy. 

*' Perhaps, after all, leyasu was wise, when he closed 
the doors of Japan, early in the seventeenth century, 
against the invasion of Eome. Who knows but that he 
was posted on the unhappy conditions in the Philippines, 
Mexico, Cuba, Porto Kico, South America and even in 
miserable priest-ridden Spain itself. But from whence 
came that benevolent cult which regenerated and blessed 
Japan ? 

"Buddha, the originator of that wonderful creed which 
includes in its membership one-third of the world's popu- 
lation, was born in 543 a. d. in the town of Kapilavasta, 
Northern India, and of noble parentage. It was during 
a period of fasting and temptation that he grasped the 
four great principles of his creed: first, that existence in- 
volves suffering ; second, that suffering results from desire ; 
third, that relief from desire and suffering come from 
annihilation; and fourth, that extinction from existence 
can only result from an absolutely correct mode of life. 
It is believed, however, that Buddha meant the extinction 

[354] 



HISTORY OF BUDDHISM 

of the soul's desires to all disturbing influences, and hence 
that state of eternal and unbroken tranquillity, known as 
Nirvana. He laid down three cardinal principles for the 
guidance of mankind. First, that the attainment of a 
sinless state of perfect enlightenment was gained through 
meditation and benevolence ; second, that Karma was cause 
and effect, that each effect in this life springs from a 
cause in some previous incarnation, and that each act in 
this life bears its fruit in the life to come; and third, 
that Karma was discipline and order, or the Lord, Law, 
and the Church. The first monastic system in the world 
was that organized by Buddha. His followers not only 
subscribed to celibacy, poverty, and obedience, but were 
permitted to possess only the following worldly articles, 
namely : three robes, a loin girdle, alms-bowl, needle, razor, 
and a strainer through which drinking water was passed. 
It will thus be noted that Buddha recognized the dangers 
in drinking-water and may be regarded as the inventor 
of the filter. He preached forty-five years after his en- 
lightenment and at his death 500 followers chanted his 
teachings that they might never perish from the memory 
of man. 

**It is to the credit of this great leader that he merely 
represented himself as a guide for suffering humanity and 
his precepts for their consideration. His creed involved 
no complex ritual or dogmas, and his followers were left 
to the dictates of their own free will. He did not preach 
that he was the saviour of mankind, nor that there were 
heaven and hell. 

''His principles involved the highest moral code and 
mainly consisted of prohibition against intemperance, 
lying, stealing, murder, adultery, anger, pride, hypocrisy, 
greed, gossip, cruelty to animals, and every shade of 
vice. He enjoined reverence to parents, care of children, 
submission to authority, gratitude, self-abnegation, modera- 
tion in times of prosperity, forgiveness of others' faults, 

[355] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

and all of the cardinal virtues. When asked in regard to 
the creation of the world. he replied that such questions 
were vain and idle. 

*'A theory of the cosmogony evolved by one of his 
followers was to the effect that a lotus bud emerged from 
the chaos of waters at the beginning and that from this 
flower sprang the universe. The idea is poetical and 
beautiful, for it is known that this incarnation of all 
perfect flowers appears from the slime and fester of stag- 
nant pools, and rising mysteriously from beneath the 
foul surface, unfolds itself into a flower of marvellous 
beauty and perfection. It may be from this historical 
legend that the lotus-pond became conspicuous in the 
grounds of every Buddhist monastery. 

''The transmigration of souls from one body to another 
is also a tenet of the creed, made necessary for souls 
steeped in vice, who through various steps of prepara- 
tion are perfected for the haven of Nirvana. 

** Buddhism made its way into China 250 years B.C., 
and gradually filtered into Korea, from whence it entered 
Japan where it soon became an accepted faith. It was 
through the agency of King Hiaksai of the Hermit King- 
dom that priests, images, and sutras were transported 
across the Sea of Japan and the new religion planted. 
Two historical images, one in the temple of Zenkoji, 
Nogano, and the other in Tennoji, Osaka, are claimed to 
be the original ones sent over by Korea during that 
period. 

''Most naturally the new creed accompanied by foreign 
gods created dismay among the native clergy who had 
held sacerdotal sway ages before the divine Mikado Jimmu 
had descended from heaven. The ruling Emperor there- 
fore decided to assemble a council to settle the momentous 
question which might call forth the ire and curses of 
the native gods. Soga no Iname, a prominent member 
as well as an advocate of Buddhism, was permitted to 
build a temple for the foreign priests and strange idols, 

[ 356 ] 




MOTOMACHI-DORI StREET, KoBE, JaPAN 




Street scene, Tqkio, Japan 




D 

X 
H 

< 

H 
Pi 

C 

< 

X 

X 
in 

6 

CO 
Di 

o 

o 
o 

O 

0, 
X 

w 



HISTORY OF BUDDHISM 

Scarcely had they become well-housed before pestilence 
brooded over the land and was ascribed to the new religion. 
Led by a number of Shinto priests a large band of the 
old school demolished Soga's temple and threw the images 
in the Yodogawa not far from Osaka. A few years later 
the tide turned in favor of Buddhism and Soga was al- 
lowed to reestablish his temple and fish out the images 
from the river. 

**From this period until the appearance of Shotoku 
Taishi, the great native apostle of the new creed, the 
country was seething with conflicts and unrest between 
the two religious factions. Shotoku was the premier of 
the queen and it was through his influence that the Em- 
press and court became converts and further objection 
averted. So much enthusiasm did Shotoku create among 
the nobles and powerful families that many of the famous 
temples built about that time could be traced to his 
influence. 

*'As the strength and organization of the new priest- 
hood increased, the power of the Mikado and court de- 
clined, until the ruler had become a mere shadow and the 
real authority was delegated to a military leader. With 
the increase of Buddhism, the priesthood became the real 
power, and finally dictated the policy of the court. 
Through the confessional, or the influence of the wife, 
concubine, or some favored female, they even obtained 
possession of the treasury and were thus enabled to spend 
lavishly on magnificent temples. One of the order. Monk 
Ugino Do-kio, who had become premier to the emperor 
even aspired to the throne. 

**The homes accompanied the armies to war, and like 
their Roman Catholic colleagues during the early colonial 
days of Spain, immediately took possession of the pacified 
territory and began to convert the natives. It was during 
the acme of their power, that the priesthood became so 
mighty that they resisted the orders of the government. 
In the sixteenth century thousands of temples and monas- 

[357] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

teries dotted the plains and mountain-sides of the country, 
many of which had regiments of armed retainers. On 
the crest of Hiei-zan, overlooking the sacred capital of 
Kioto, were three thousand temples, the occupants of 
which became so rebelious that Nobunaga was forced 
to march against them with an army, during which all of 
the temples were burned to the ground and thousands of 
the monks, concubines, and their families put to the sword. 

**It was about the twelfth century that Confucianism 
added its weight to the new religion and inculcated those 
principles upon which ^Bushido,' or the 'Way of the 
Knight,' is founded, namely, loyalty to Mikado, shogun, 
lord, and master. In China loyalty to parents comes 
first, while in Japan loyalty to king. Filial duty in China 
is the basis of order and national longevity and is one of 
the wonders of the world; coincidentally or otherwise it 
agrees with the Scriptural injunction as laid down in the 
fourth commandment. 

** Confucius is a clear and distinct historical character 
and his parentage, place of birth, public life, offices, work, 
and teaching are properly authenticated. He was born in 
551 B.C. in the Province of Shan Tung, China, where his 
direct line still exists, although seventy-five generations 
have been born and passed out of existence since the birth 
of the Great Teacher. 

''Although Confucius is said to have originated nothing 
beyond that taught at the time, he is justly entitled to 
the honor of being the world's greatest editor and compiler 
to that date. He was also known as the Socrates of his 
day and was followed constantly by devoted disciples who 
lived on his wise utterances. He edited many of the prin- 
cipal works of the old masters and has left a number of 
volumes of his own discussions or conversations which are 
known as the Confucian Analects. 

"He died in 478 B.C. at the age of seventy-one and in 
no wise modified the preexisting religion, which was 
monotheistic, except that he laid great stress on the ob- 

[358] 



HISTORY OF BUDDHISM 

servance of the social and political duties of mankind. 
His teaching referred chiefly to the duties between man 
and man, to etiquette and ceremony. He practically ig- 
nored the existence of a Supreme Being and may be held 
responsible, in a measure, for the agnosticism of China 
and Japan to-day. 

''Many changes were made in the creed of Buddha after 
its transplantation in Japan which greatly facilitated its 
adoption among the people. It was through the influence 
of Kobo Daishi, the most famous of all 'Japanese Buddhist 
saints, that a vast number of the Shinto gods were adopted 
as avatars in the pantheon of Buddhist gods. It was 
currently believed that during a visit made by him to the 
Sacred Shrine of Ise, he communicated directly with Ama- 
terasu, the Sun Goddess, and hence learned that many of 
the most popular Shinto gods, prehistorically, were Indian 
gods and thus enrolled among those of Buddha. The 
Riyobu, or the mixed Buddhist religion as it was now 
called, became very pleasing to the natives since it had 
incorporated the Shinto gods and did not obliterate the 
old customs of pilgrimage, festivals, and other ancient 
rites dear to the people. The bonzes were lovers of 
beauty in art and nature and religious symbolism. Their 
teachings were metaphysical and mystical, political, his- 
torical, scientific, and literary. Credit should be given 
them for horticulture and the Japanese garden, which to 
the refined imagination is far more than meets the eye 
of the alien. 

''Between the twelfth and sixteenth centuries Japanese 
Buddhism became divided^ into many sects and subsects, 
among which may be mentioned as prominent the Zen, 
Shin, Shingon, Jodo, Nicheren, and Tendai, all of which 
hold tenets materially differing from the others although 
many of the points in dispute are highly metaphysical and 
technical. So complicated is the special creed of the 
Shingon sect that Sir Ernest Satow, who is one of the 
greatest authorities on Oriental religions, says, its 'whole 

[359] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

doctrine is extremely difficult to comprehend and more 
difficult to put into intelligible language.' Of another of 
the sects he tells us that its ^highest truths are consid- 
ered to be incomprehensible except to those who have 
attained to Buddhaship. ' 

"The Buddhist body of scripture has never been 
printed in Japanese, and the canons were made up by 
Buddha's disciples or followers for the most part many 
centuries after he had passed away. Doctor Eitel states 
that a number of the books of Buddha received the ap- 
proval of the Ecumenical Council of Cashmere about the 
time of Christ and that Buddha himself has been enrolled 
as a saint in the Church of Rome. Since 1870, about 
which time the new regime became effective in Japan, 
a great revolution occurred in the Riyobu form of the 
faith, by which all of the temples devoted to the mixed 
religion became purged of all Buddhist symbols, furni- 
ture, equipment, and personnel, and returned to the august 
and severe simplicity of the ancient faith. 

**The separate elements forming Japanese Buddhism are 
taken from Brahmanism, Buddhism, Taoism, and Shin- 
toism and it is now said that a new school is proposing 
to add a fifth element, namely, Christianity, with Jesus 
of Nazareth as a Palestine avatar. Whether it be the 
result of the broadening views of Western education and 
civilization or the doctrines promulgated by the disciples 
of Christianity, popular Buddhism in Japan is now, how- 
ever, both ethically and vitally in a low state and rapidly 
going into decay. Thousands of the images are being 
removed from the shrines and temples and sold for old 
junk, while the broad lines of humanity and altruism have 
supplanted the creed and hospitals and orphan asylums, 
the sites of former temples. ' ' 






[360] 



CHAPTER XXXIV 

KOBE AND ENVIRONMENT — TRAITS OF JAPA- 
NESE WOMEN 

The Ancient Capital Hyogo — The Sea-Port Town 
Kobe — The Temple of Ikuta — A Christening Cere- 
mony — The Sacred Dice Box — The Waterfalls of 
NuNOBiKi — The Environment of Kobe — Mr. Wil- 
kinson 's Lawsuit — Hime ji, Okayama, and Fukuyama 
— The Kaleidoscope op the Royal Highway — A 
Japanese Bride and Groom — A Few Traits of Jap- 
anese Women — Their Homes and Housekeeping — 
The Five Maladies which Affect the Female Mind 
in Japan — Stories Illustrative of Their Character. 

MY friends/' said the Major, as we crossed the 
Ai-oi Bridge, the morning following our arrival in 
Kobe, ' ' although you may not be aware of the fact, we are 
nevertheless in one of Japan's ancient capitals." 

As our visit to Kobe was necessarily brief, we had taken 
an early breakfast and started for Hyogo, which joins 
Kobe on the southwest, and may at present be regarded 
as a continuation of that great seaport town, which lies 
at the western gate of the Inland Sea. 

It was in 1180, shortly after the destruction of the 
palace in Kioto by fire, that the powerful regent 
Kiyomori removed the capital to Hyogo for a period of 
six months, after which it was transferred back to Kioto, 
where it remained for over 600 years, and until changed 
to Tokio in 1868. It was during this period that Kiyomori 
became involved in a war with Yoritomo, the head of the 

[361] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

Minamoto clan, during which the former's clan, the 
Tairas, with his son Munemori, were wiped off the face 
of the earth in the naval engagement of Dan-no-ura, near 
Shimonoseki. This town was also the theatre of that 
great battle in 1336 between the Ashikaga forces and the 
troops of the dethroned Emperor, Go-Daigo, led by that 
gallant and intrepid soldier, Kusonoki Masashige, who 
with the few remaining members of his troops, after 
defeat committed liara-kiri, within the temple grounds. 

Besides its historical interest, Hyogo possesses in its 
temples and mountains an enviable local interest. Just 
beyond the bridge, in a square walled enclosure, stands 
the Shinto temple of Nanko which has been dedicated to 
the celebrated warrior Masashige of whom we have just 
spoken. The temple grounds present a gorgeous appear- 
ance annually on the twenty-fifth of May, the anniversary 
of his death. The procession which turns out on that occa- 
sion in his honor is dressed in similar uniform and armor 
to that worn by his troops and presents a striking picture 
of Japan's mediaeval army. 

Hyogo also possesses a gigantic bronze Buddha which 
stands in the temple of Nofukuji and is forty-eight feet 
high. This large statue was presented to the city by an 
enthusiast of the gentle Buddha, as a peace offering to 
that great deity on account of the snug fortune he had 
accumulated through the paper industry. The visitor 
who is unable to visit Kamakura or Nara should by all 
means see Hyogo 's great statue, although the face is not 
so fine as that of the great masterpiece at Kamakura. 

Not far away from the Nofukuji temple may be seen 
a remarkable bronze statue to Amida which stands upon 
a stone pedestal in front of a lotus-pond. In the near 
vicinity towers a thirteen-storied pagoda of stone which 
was built as a monument to Kiyomori, the implacable 
enemy of Yoritomo, the first shogun of Japan. On his 
deathbed, Kiyomori warned his clan of the growing 
dangers from the young Minamoto chieftain and said, 

[362] 



KOBE AND ENVIRONMENT 

**My only regret in dying is that I have not seen the 
head of Yoritomo of the Minamoto. After my decease 
do not make offerings to Buddha or read the sacred 
books, but cut off the head of Yoritomo and hang it on 
my tomb." A few steps away is the temple of Seifukuji, 
where an officer in the service of the Daimio of Bizen 
was condemned to commit hara-kiri because he had 
ordered his lord's troops to fire on the Foreign Settle- 
ment at Kobe in 1868. 

Kobe is beautifully located on the shore of the Inland 
Sea and contains a population of 380,568 souls. It was 
founded as a foreign settlement in 1868 and is noted, 
not only on account of its lead in exports and imports 
among the cities of the empire, but also on account of 
the purity and dryness of its atmosphere which makes 
it a favorite point of residence. Moreover, its proximity 
to Kioto, Osaka, and Nara, located in the heart of Old 
Japan, adds greatly to its many other advantages. 

Like Yokohama the foreign settlement of Kobe is built 
entirely on Western lines and resembles in the width of 
streets and its architecture, American or European cities. 
It possesses a number of excellent hotels, among which 
may be mentioned the Tor, Grand, Continental, California, 
and the Mikado, all of which are prepared to care for 
foreign patronage. 

The business men of Kobe are active and progressive 
and have organized a bankers' association, clearing house, 
chamber of commerce, and a tea traders' association, 
where all of the tea for export is sampled and officially 
stamped, before being shipped to foreign countries. The 
United States has located one of its three coaling stations 
in Kobe and, much to the wonder of the Japanese gov- 
ernment, ships its coal from America instead of purchas- 
ing the native product which is reasonable in price and 
of good quality. 

Fortunately for the traveller who objects to the use 
of the jinricksha, Kobe was well supplied with a number 

[363] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

of excellent one- and two-horse victorias during our visit, 
and I presume with motor cars by this time, for the 
alert Japanese, who is known as the Yankee of the Orient, 
never loses a trick when it comes to business. Among the 
points of interest in Kobe and its environment which 
deserve a visit are the old Ikuta Shinto temple and the 
Nunobiki waterfalls, besides a large number of moun- 
tain peaks with interesting temples and charming seaside 
resorts with excellent hotels, which offer delightful out- 
ings to those able to remain long enough to visit them. 

After our return from Hyogo, we drove at once to the 
Ikuta temple and found it well patronized with a large 
attendance of natives engaged in the customary Shinto 
ceremonial of hand-clapping and throwing small pieces 
of copper money in the slatted offering-box. It was a 
few moments before I noticed the interesting ceremony 
of a christening which was in progress. 

The young mother, babe in arms, sat in the middle of 
the floor while a priest in gorgeous vestments chanted 
a weird song to the accompaniment of a large bass drum 
which murdered conversation for a quarter of a mile 
around. In the meanwhile a young priestess, with a 
staff ornamented with streamers, was cutting a few 
pigeon-wings around the young mother and watching with 
covetous glances several young priests who were passing 
to the old abbot vessels containing sake, fish, fruit, rice, 
and other toothsome morsels as offerings to the temple 
gods. In a few moments the music and dancing ceased, 
and the young mother who was presented by the offi- 
ciating priest with a scroll of instructions regarding baby 
raising, left the stage. 

In leaving the main temple we passed a small shrine 
provided with two octagonal prayer dice boxes about eight 
inches long. Each box was filled with small wooden rods 
bearing numbers with cabalistic inscriptions in the 
Chinese ideogram. In the bottom of the box was a round 
opening, through which the prayer-stick, after shaking 

[364] 



KOBE AND ENVIRONMENT 

the box, was drawn. When the natives had finished 
drawing the Major slipped forward and shook the box. 
A moment later he extracted a stick bearing the unlucky 
number thirteen, with an ideogram which resembled a 
bundle of horned toads. 

*' Don't look so sad. Major,'' said the Judge, *'I will 
prove to you that fortune will continue to smile upon us 
in spite of your bad omen, and that we are playing in the 
greatest luck. ' ' 

Then giving the box several vigorous shakes and utter- 
ing the mystic words enyy meny, miny, mo, with fingers 
crossed, he drew a stick upon which appeared in large, 
red letters, the number twenty-three. 

*'Come, gentlemen, let us skee-doo, for if we don't leave 
the temple grounds at once I fear the goddess will assem- 
ble the gods and put us out. I have a prie that it would 
prove a bad day to play the races. ' ' 

The Ikuta Temple is said to have been founded by the 
Empress Jingo on her return from Korea in 205 a. d. 
after a victorious campaign of three years, as a result of 
which the three independent kingdoms of that country 
became tributary to Japan. The goddess of the temple 
is therefore known as the Japanese Minerva, and is be- 
lieved by the peasantry to control the rainfall, because of 
which she is appealed to during seasons of excessive rain- 
storms or drought. 

About twenty minutes from the centre of the foreign 
settlement the Nunobiki Waterfalls are reached, two very 
attractive and picturesque falls, the * ' male ' ' and ' ' female, ' ' 
both of which are located some distance up the mountain- 
side, well flanked by attractive tea and lunch houses. 
Very much after the fashion of the Jersey mosquitoes 
which lie in wait for the unsuspecting stranger who visits 
the seashore resorts of that state, the geisha girls of Nuno- 
biki scent the game from afar, and before one reaches 
the first fall he finds himself surrounded by a dozen or 
more enamelled and painted nesans who offer all kinds 

[365] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

of inducements to partake of their hospitality. On account 
of this insistent crowd, which is as brazen as the Mar- 
guerites of the Strand after ten o'clock at night, ladies 
are warned to keep away from Nunobiki unless accom- 
panied by gentlemen. 

Probably nowhere in Japan are there more numerous 
or pleasanter resorts than within the mountain regions 
a few miles north of Kobe. Among the most popular of 
these may be mentioned the towns of Suwayama, Maya- 
san, Mino, Naka-yama, Takara-zuka and Arima. The 
celebrated table waters ''Tansan" and *'Hirano," which 
are bottled and sold throughout the Orient, come from 
Takara-zuka and Naka-yama. 

One of the traits characteristic of Japanese business 
men, and the protection afforded foreigners engaged in 
trade over there, may be illustrated by a law-suit between 
Mr. Clifford Wilkinson, the owner of the Tansan bot- 
tling works, and a Japanese firm which was imitating his 
label. Although Mr. Wilkinson obtained a judgment the 
firm appealed and continued bottling. He then applied 
for an injunction against the firm pending the appeal. 
The learned native judge rendered a decision that the 
firm might continue imitating the label as it was winter 
time and Mr. Wilkinson would in all probability suffer 
but little loss as little water was drunk at that season ! 

In leaving Kobe for the west via the Sanyodo Railway 
the traveller shortly passes Suma, Shioya, Maiko, and 
Akashi, popular seaside resorts where many of the resi- 
dents live during the summer months. From Akashi to 
Himeji the scenery along the seashore is extremely pic- 
turesque and beautiful and has for ages been the subject 
of poetry and song. Hitomaro, one of the earliest Japa- 
nese poets, in the eighth century, sang of its enchanting 
beauty, and since that date native poets have never tired 
of singing the praises of this pine-clad coast. 

The old castle at Himeji which was founded in the 
fourteenth century is in an excellent state of preserva- 

[366] 



KOBE AND ENVIRONMENT 

tion, and next to the one at Osaka, is the largest in the 
empire. In 1577 Nobunaga presented the province of 
Harima to Hideyoshi, who enlarged the castle and 
crowned it with thirty turrets, and in 1608 Terumasa, 
who had become its possessor at that time, added twenty 
more. The castle and grounds are now owned by the 
government and occupied by Imperial troops. 

The Imperial Sanyo Kailway, which borders the shores 
of the Inland Sea most of the way from Kobe to Shimono- 
seki, runs through scenery of transcendental beauty, else- 
where unparalleled on the face of the globe for such a 
long distance. It matters not whether the traveller 
turns his eyes towards the distant mountain-tops clear 
cut in bold silhouette against the blue arch of heaven, or 
upon the islet-strewn bosom of the Inland Sea, the pro- 
cession of enchanting scenes never ceases to thrill the 
artistic soul. 

The sky-line along the mountain crests throughout the 
empire lends a peculiar charm to the mountain scenery 
of Japan, found nowhere else in the wide, wide world, 
a felicitous gift from the gods enhanced by the cunning 
art of man. When the popular stream of travel turns 
from the well-beaten paths of Europe to the shores of 
Dai-Nippon, I can imagine no motor course so attractive 
and unique as the historic highway along the Inland Sea. 
Built ages ago and lined with majestic cryptomerias and 
fantastic, freakish pines, it winds its way over hill and 
dale, ever and anon so close to the water's edge that the 
musical lapping of the waves reechoes back from the cliffs 
beyond. 

From the window of our Pullman the commonalty of 
Japan passes in review. Bands of white-robed pilgrims 
with staff and broad bamboo hat are seen threading their 
way to some holy shrine; companies of Imperial troops 
swinging along in cadenced step on their daily practice 
march from the garrison town near by; groups of peas- 
ants driving gayly caparisoned black pack bulls laden 

[367] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

down with the product of their toil and slowly wending 
their way to the nearest market town; curious Japanese 
wagons drawn by little horses with noses almost touching 
the ground and led by rustic drivers in suits of homespun 
blue; groups of uniformed school children bent on a holi- 
day's outing, while the country doctor and wealthy land- 
owner in their two-man rickshas pass by in jog-trot gait 
and complete the kaleidoscopic panorama which forms the 
daily life of that ancient highway. 

The Japanese have for ages been students of nature, 
which accounts for the conformity that exists between the 
work of man and God in that garden of the Far East. 
Go where you may, from Nagasaki to Hakodate, you will 
find no discordant note to disturb the harmony of the 
scale. So effective has the mimicry between the animal, 
vegetable, architectural, and physical creation of Japan 
become, that each is complementary to the other though 
it seems unnatural when transplanted to other portions of 
the globe. 

Indeed so strong has Japan grown into its own char- 
acteristics that any race of people, save the Malay-Mon- 
golian, appears strange and out of place in this land of 
national homogenesis. Quaint and picturesque are the 
villages of houses with one-story, thatched roofs which 
one finds nestling everywhere. In course of time their 
weather-stained walls and gray roofs give the entire vil- 
lage a uniform hue which suggests a patch of monster 
mushrooms resting at the base of some mountain-side. 

The Japanese people are exceedingly anxious to learn 
English, and during our journey to Hiroshima, we met 
a number who spoke the language very well although 
they had never been away from their native land. It is 
taught in all of the universities, colleges, high schools, 
and many of the middle schools, which will insure a gen- 
eral knowledge of English within a few years. Perhaps 
they have taken the cue from Captain Hobson and have 
concluded that our language might become quite handy 

[368] 



KOBE AND ENVIRONMENT 

when they quietly settle down to colonize California and 
our golden Western coast. 

Sixty miles west of Himeji the road passes through 
Okayama, the capital of Bizen, and fifty miles farther 
through Fukuyama, the capital of Bingo, two of the most 
interesting castle towns between Kobe and Hiroshima and 
well worth a visit from the lovers of Old Japan. Among 
the interesting sights of Okayama is the Koraku-en garden 
which represents the ancient type of the Japanese land- 
scape gardening before the art was modified by the Euro- 
pean school. 

The Koraku-en was formerly the charming plaisance 
of the lords of the castle and contains miniature moun- 
tains, lakes, valleys, and hills, and is further embellished 
with flowering trees and plants among which are the 
cherry, plum, and maple trees, palmettos, wistaria, 
peony, and lotus. A few cranes may be seen wading in 
the ponds, which are said to be over two hundred years 
old. The orphanage, located at Okayama contains 1,200 
children and is the largest institution of the kind in 
'Japan. The castle of Fukuyama sits upon a high hill 
overlooking the railroad and presents a striking picture 
as the train whirls by. In gazing on its frowning battle- 
ments, great walls of solid masonry and picturesque 
donjon, the traveller might reasonably imagine that a leaf 
had been torn from the banks of the Rhine and planted 
in the heart of Japan. The Imperial Railway from Oka- 
yama, until it reaches Hiroshima, leaves the seashore and 
plunges into an agricultural country of low hills, with the 
exception of a short glimpse one gets of the sea as it 
skirts along the shore near the bustling town of Onomichi, 
a city of decaying temples, narrow streets and enchanting 
sea views. The Saikokuji temple, a branch of the great 
monastery of Koya-san, built of huge granite blocks which 
are abundant in this vicinity, adds much to the interest 
of the visitor. 

Before leaving Onomichi, a Japanese bride and groom 
24 [ 369 ] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

entered our car, bound for Shimonoseki where they in- 
tended to make their future home. The bride was beauti- 
fully gowned in a handsome silk kimono bearing upon 
its collar the family crest, while the groom was attired 
in the conventional frock coat and silk hat. The neck 
decoration of the young matron was particularly attract- 
ive being composed of light colored silk material laid in 
folds producing rainbow effects. She toyed with a silk 
fan decorated with lobsters, no doubt one of her wedding 
gifts. The lobster is emblematic of long life in Japan 
and is always introduced as a part of the wedding feast. 
The toast to the bride and groom is ''may you live to 
such an age that your back may become as crooked as the 
lobster 's. ' ' 

The seats in the rear of the car were arranged length- 
wise, which permitted the newly married pair to assume 
the native posture and perch themselves like a brace of 
birds on the top of the seat, where they appeared as happy 
as a couple of children before Christmas Eve, as we left 
the train at Hiroshima. 

''The general ideas of Japanese women,'' said the 
Major, "are very much like those of children in their 
love for simple amusements and childish pleasures. Their 
education in the arts and graces of courtesy and cere- 
mony is very pleasing and highly appreciated by the culti- 
vated stranger who sees so much brusqueness among the 
Western nations. Japanese women never become inti- 
mate with their best friends but, building a wall of ada- 
mant around themselves retire within it upon the first 
touch of familiarity. It has been said of them by a 
distinguished traveller that a well-bred Japanese woman 
reminds one of a delicate sea-anemone which at the first 
approach of a rough hand shrinks within itself. While 
timid and morbidly sensitive, they are filled with courage, 
self-reliance, and natural pride." 

Except among the working classes Japanese women take 
little exercise and eat like birds, pecking at food as it were, 

[370] 



iPto^^.^^-.V-'*'^''*-' 




Japanese woman of the wealthy class 




Sacred temple, Miyajima, Japan 




Hachiman Temple, Kamakura, Japan 



KOBE AND ENVIRONMENT 

and hence there should be no wonder that they are so 
petite and slender. The meal hour is extremely irregular 
and as a rule little food is kept in the house. The shops 
near by, or the street venders, supply the daily dishes 
which are purchased in quantities only sufficient for each 
meal. Live fish are hawked around the streets in tubs 
and the venders have not the slightest compunctions in 
dividing a fish for a purchaser, casting the remaining 
stump back in the tub where it wiggles around until it 
dies. 

Housekeeping among the wealthy and well-to-do is an 
easy accomplishment in Japan on account of the abundance 
of well-trained servants and the cheapness of the com- 
modities of life. The markets are supplied with the 
finest vegetables, fruits, eggs, poultry, and meats of all 
kinds at remarkably reasonable rates. The Japanese 
house occupied by the ordinary classes is a little, frame, 
one-story building with sliding partitions, the windows cov- 
ered with oil-paper panes, the structure resembling some- 
what, with its red and gray tiled roof, a Swiss chalet. 

Except for the hahache or brazier their homes are de- 
void of heating apparatus, even during the coldest season 
of the year. The Japanese housekeeper is immaculate in 
her attention to cleanliness, it being a part of her religious 
cult, and no doubt if placed in competition in that regard 
would sweep away forever the proud pretentions of her 
New England sister. The tea-tray is always on hand and 
a Japanese lady is seldom seen far away from it and her 
little pipe which holds but one whiff of mild tobacco. 

Like the Spartan women they are noted for courage, 
bravery, and self-possession, qualities exhibited by their 
sons during the long and sanguinary siege before Port 
Arthur. In the book on the *' Greater Learning of 
Women," they are taught to look upon their husbands as 
superior beings, an Oriental idea, and to avoid the five 
great maladies which affect the female mind, namely: 
Indocility, discontent, slander, jealousy, and silliness, 

[371] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

but above all, to avoid the latter which is considered the 
most reprehensible of all by Japanese men. In order to 
cure themselves of such unfortunate characteristics they 
are advised to undergo frequent self-inspection and self- 
reproach. 

Many stories are told illustrative of the finer qualities 
of Japanese womanhood, among which may be mentioned 
the following historical episode: During the organiza- 
tion of the government after the restoration of the Em- 
peror, the life of Count Ito was threatened by a faction 
which resented his liberal spirit toward foreign nations. 
One day he was pursued by a murderous band bent on 
his assassination and ran into the house of an ordinary 
peasant woman. Closely pursued by the murderers and 
trapped like a rat, the Count drew his sword and pre- 
pared to die like the brave soldier that he was. The 
poor woman recognizing the nobleman and realizing his 
value to the country, in an instant removed the firebox 
and mats in the centre of her room and, lifting the plank 
cover in the floor, pushed him into the pit below. Until 
his death, more than fifty years afterwards, the Prince 
loved to dwell upon this tragic incident which would have 
ended his life, save for the woman's courage and presence 
of mind. She became a pensioner upon his bounty for 
the remainder of her life. 

Another story, illustrating a Japanese woman's sense of 
honor, is told of a nobleman's wife whose husband had 
been called to Yedo by order of the shogun early in the 
seventeenth century. During his absence a neighboring 
daimio swooped down upon his castle and carried off his 
beautiful wife and household into captivity where they 
were held for several months. Several years later, when 
the incident had apparently been forgotten and friendly 
relations again established between the belligerent lords, 
the lady prevailed on her husband to give a great ban- 
quet to which the base knight was invited with the other 
powerful daimios and ladies of the neighboring provinces. 

[372] 



KOBE AND ENVIRONMENT 

The sumptuous entertainment was celebrated on the 
large roof-garden of the castle, . under the soft light of 
the full harvest moon the brilliancy of which was long 
remembered by the distinguished guests present on the 
night of that dreadful tragedy. Away to the south could 
be plainly seen the towering peak of the peerless Fuji, as its 
silvery cone vied with the radiant whiteness of the fleecy 
clouds among which it appeared to float. Off to the east 
for many leagues stretched the moonlit bosom of the isle- 
strewn Inland Sea, while fading far away in the distance 
of the midnight gloom loomed up the pine-clad summit 
of Sacred Miyajima, the croAvning jewel of the three pic- 
turesque marvels of Dai-Nippon. 

During the height of the banquet, now enlivened by the 
clink of crystal and sally of wit, the hostess called the 
attention of the guests and rising before her husband 
said, **My Noble Lord and friends, I have sought in vain 
with heavy heart for many years to make this confession 
which ends my life to-night. 

''Our great teacher Confucius, has taught us that an 
unfaithful servant is unworthy to live under the same 
heaven with his loyal master. During my captivity in 
the castle of yon treacherous lord I was forced to break 
the nuptial vow which I faithfully made on the morning 
of my marriage in the presence of the gods of our ancient 
realm. Believe me, my lord, I would have then ended 
my days, but have patiently awaited this day, the hour 
of retribution. 

''I must now say farewell and when you meet me on 
the long and lonesome road of death, I beg you tell me 
that my sin has been forgiven and the stain of your 
dishonor effaced through vengeance on our common 
enemy. ' ' 

She had scarcely finished her last word, when rapidly 
ascending the parapet she flung herself to the earth full 
eighty feet below. The ignoble daimio was requested to 
commit hara-kiri at once, and just before drawing the 

[373] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

keen edge of the fatal blade, said, ''My Lords, the sen- 
tence is just." 

*'A rather sad story," remarked the Judge, ''but one 
which exemplifies a national characteristic of both sexes." 

A moment later the buffet attendant announced lunch 
and the Major's gruesome story became an incident of the 
past. 



[374] 



CE AFTER XXXV 

THE JAPANESE ARMY AND NAVY — THE SACRED 
ISLAND OF JAPAN — ADIOS 

The Great Naval Arsenal at Kure — Plant for Guns 
AND Armor-Plate — The Japanese Navy — Prepara- 
tion OF Naval Officers — The Naval College on the 
Island of Etajima — The Japanese Army — Reserves, 
Landv^ehr, and Landsturm — The Education and Ap- 
pointment OF Army Officers — Comparison with the 
American Army and Navy — Hiroshima, the Great 
Military Station of Japan — The Methodist Mission 
AND College — Hotels and Restaurants — Approach 
TO Miyajima — The Sacred Temple and Torii — The 
IwAso Hotel and Nesan Attendants — A Hero of 
Port Arthur — The Unhappy Widow — Arrival in 
Shimonoseki — Farewell to Japan. 

A FEW miles west of Hiroshima/' said the Major, 
*' after we had finished lunch and lighted a cigar 
'Manila,' we reached Kaidaichi, the railway gateway 
to Japan's greatest dockyards and naval arsenal, which 
are located at Kure ten or fifteen miles south of the main 
Imperial line. This great naval station is situated on the 
shore of an impregnable harbor which juts well up into 
the mainland and lies opposite the islands of Etajima and 
Kurahashi. The main harbor is entered from the Inland 
Sea through three narrow and tortuous channels, securely 
protected against a foreign fleet by powerful concealed 
batteries as well as a torpedo system during actual war- 
fare. 

[375] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

**The Imperial Naval College is located on the island 
of Etajima, thus affording the cadets an excellent oppor- 
tunity to observe practical ship-building, gun-making, and 
the complex work connected with the arsenal in general. 
I regret very much that, owing to our limited time, we 
shall be unable to run down there for a few days before 
leaving Japan. I understand that many important 
changes, with great improvements, have been made since 
my last visit which was just prior to the war with Russia. 

''The foundation of the naval station at Kure was 
laid in 1894 and the site selected, no doubt, on account 
of the excellence of its harbor and inaccessibility to 
foreign fleets in time of war. Moreover, the convenience 
of its proximity to Hiroshima, the greatest military gar- 
rison in Japan, adds greatly to the advantages of its 
location. Hiroshima was selected as the principal ship- 
ping point for troops during the war with Russia, as well 
as the site for the great hospitals which cared for the sick 
and wounded returning from Port Arthur and the san- 
guinary battle-fields of Manchuria. 

**The arsenal grounds cover upwards of a hundred 
acres and contain tremendous plants for the manufacture 
of armor-plate, naval guns, and projectiles of all sizes 
up to twelve inches. Long before the visitor reaches the 
scenes of this great activity he will be greeted by the 
noise of the great hammers, the immense cranes and ele- 
vators, which rear their proud heads, and the thick vol- 
umes of smoke that obscure the sky. The grounds contain 
shops for boring, turning, finishing, tempering, and 
shrinking, for the manufacture of projectiles and car- 
tridge cases, carpenter and pattern shops, torpedo and 
submarine shops, machine and gun-mounting shops, labora- 
tories, stores, proving butts, etc. The armor-plate contains 
open-hearth furnaces, gas producers, forged containing 
a 10,000-ton hydraulic press and rollers, with their 
necessary machine shops, cementation shops, drawing 
rooms, stores, etc. With the dockyard and arsenal facili- 

[376] 



JAPANESE ARMY AND NAVY 

ties at Kure, Japan can build, arm, and equip the largest 
dreadnaughts known to modern naval science with native 
brains and labor alone. 

''The government has divided the coast into five naval 
districts, with headquarters at Yokohama, Kure, Sasebo, 
Maizuru, and Muroran, all of which, except the latter^ 
are provided with dockyards and ordnance depots. Until 
recently the dockyard at Yokosuka, which is the oldest in 
Japan, was the most important in the empire, and still 
maintains great activity. It has four dockyards and is 
capable of building first-class battle-ships. The grounds 
at Yokosuka cover seventy acres and the shops give con- 
stant employment to 6,000 men. Since the recent war 
with Russia, Japan has added the dockyard at Port 
Arthur to the list and very recently, one on the coast of 
Korea. 

''Although the Japanese Empire has a navy scarcely 
second to that of the United States, Germany, or France, 
she is at work, both night and day, in the construction 
of some of the most formidable battle-ships known to 
modern science. Whether these preparations are simply 
made to maintain the concordat of armed neutrality among 
the powers of the East, or to cast the gantlet at the feet 
of some restraining rival, are problems which time alone 
can solve. 

* ' The present strength of Japan ^s navy is as follows : mod- 
ern battle-ships 15, armored cruisers, first-class, 13, pro- 
tected cruisers 18, submarines 10, torpedo-gunboats and 
scouts 6, destroyers 54, torpedo boats 50, and an auxiliary 
navy of 75 subsidized steamers belonging to the Nippon 
Yusen Kaisha. Under construction or approved by the 
government, 4 modern dreadnaughts, 2 armored cruisers, 8 
destroyers, 45 torpedo boats and 7 submarines. Besides the 
vessels belonging to the modern fleet, Japan possesses 68 
old war-ships, some of which until recently belonged to 
the active fleet. The tonnage of the modern navy amounts 
to 476,630 tons, with 735 guns of from 3.937 to 12 inches 

[377] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

in calibre. Japan relies greatly on her destroyers and pos- 
sesses one of the strongest fleets of this class of vessels 
in the world. Some of her greatest naval triumphs during 
the recent engagements with the Russian fleet were achieved 
through the daring and efficiency of their destroyer com- 
manders. 

''The line officers of the Japanese navy are educated 
at the Imperial Naval College on the Island of Etajima, 
after a three-years' course in seamanship, navigation, 
higher mathematics, English, physics, chemistry, gunnery, 
and torpedoes, steam engineering, etc. Appointment as 
cadet is made on the order of our naval cadets to Annapo- 
lis, through a competitive examination in studies equiva- 
lent to the curriculum of the middle schools, which about 
equals that of our grammar schools. Applicants must be 
between the ages of sixteen and twenty years to secure 
appointment and, besides, pass a successful physical exam- 
ination. The government provides amply for all educa- 
tional and living expenses connected with cadet life and 
gives a commission on graduation. 

''Medical students are selected for appointment to the 
Naval Medical College after a competitive examination and 
commissioned as medical officers in the navy after passing 
a satisfactory examination at the college. Graduates of 
the National Medical Schools or foreign universities are 
also admitted into the navy provided they pass a satis- 
factory examination before an exacting board of naval 
surgeons. 

"Paymasters, naval constructors, ordnance and hydro- 
graphical engineers are prepared in special schools of 
training organized by the government and commissioned 
in those departments after satisfactory physical and pro- 
fessional examinations. Besides the schools above men- 
tioned, various schools for training officers and men in tor- 
pedo work, gunnery, engineering, and other special duties 
have been organized as the Naval Staff College. 

"Promotion to the various grades is made entirely by 

[378] 



JAPANESE ARMY AND NAVY 

selection and the list of candidates deserving this consid- 
eration is decided upon by the Board of Admirals which 
meets yearly. During the session of the board commanders 
of naval stations and squadrons, with the senior officers 
of the different branches, such as medical, engineers, con- 
structors, etc., are summoned. The Minister of Marine 
occupies the position of president of the board. 

**The retiring age for naval officers in the Japanese 
service is as follows: Admiral 68 years, vice-admirals 63, 
rear-admirals 58, captains 53, captains, junior grade 48, 
commanders 45, lieutenants 43, lieutenants, junior grade 
and sub-lieutenants 38, chief gunners and boatswains 51, 
ordinary gunners and boatswains 48. All officers are re- 
tired five years after being placed on the reserve list. 

** Since I have given you a brief outline of the Japanese 
navy,'' continued the Major, **I may as well add a short 
description of the army which gave such an excellent ac- 
count of itself before Port Arthur and at Mukden. The 
army of Japan is divided into the Active Forces, Reserve, 
Landwehr and Landsturm, an organization very similar to 
that of Germany. Military service is also compulsory, 
although the liability for call only begins at seventeen 
years, while the actual service does not begin before 
twenty, except for those who desire to enter at the mini- 
mum age of seventeen years. 

''Examination for conscription is held annually and the 
conscripts divided into two classes, 'the fit' and 'the abso- 
lutely fit.' Those necessary to preserve the fixed number 
on the active list are taken from 'the absolutely fit,' while 
the remainder of 'the fit and absolutely fit' unnecessary 
for active service enter the reserves. Active service for 
infantry lasts only two years, while in the other branches 
it lasts three years. At the conclusion of active service 
the men are transferred to the reserve forces, where they 
remain an additional four years and four months. During 
reserve service, they are called into active training on two 
occasions of sixty days each. 

[379] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

** Having completed seven years and four months in the 
active and reserve forces they pass into the Landwehr, 
where they serve ten years, with two training periods 
during that service of sixty days each. At the end of 
service in the Landwehr, as a rule the men have reached 
about the thirty-eighth year, and become Landsturm, with 
two years and eight months service in that branch, before 
completing their entire military career. The excess of an- 
nual conscripts who are not needed for the active list pass 
into the reserve and have seven years and four months in 
that branch, during which they are called out three times 
for training, the first period for ninety days, the remaining 
periods for sixty days each. After reserve service these 
men also pass into the Landwehr and Landsturm, like those 
who have had active service. 

* * The army is divided into nineteen divisions, the first of 
which is known as the Imperial Guards and possesses a 
stronger organization than the remaining eighteen. Be- 
sides the nineteen divisions there are two independent cav- 
alry brigades, three independent field artillery brigades 
of twelve battalions each, three independent divisions of 
mountain guns and four extra regiments of heavy field 
artillery of twenty-four guns each. To each division is 
attached a brigade of Landwehr, making three brigades 
or eighteen battalions to each division. The Imperial 
Guards division consists of four regiments of infantry, 
three regiments of cavalry, three regiments of field artil- 
lery, one battalion of engineers, one railway regiment, 
one telegraph battalion and balloon section, one train bat- 
talion, four infantry and four ambulance columns, six 
field hospitals, four general supply columns and one 
remount depot. All of the remaining divisions have four 
regiments of infantry, but vary in the strength of cavalry, 
field artillery, heavy field artillery, engineer battalions, 
etc. 

**The military forces are grouped into armies consisting 
of from three to five divisions and numbering from 80,000 

[380] 



I 



JAPANESE ARMY AND NAVY 

to 130,000 men. The total active strength, including the 
reserves, amounts to 600,000 men. In time of war they 
can mobilize 800,000 fighting men in the active and reserve 
lists, and possibly 1,200,000 more in the Landwehr and 
Landsturm. The infantry and cavalry troops are armed 
with the latest improved Arisaka rifle and carbine which 
has a calibre of .256 of an inch and a muzzle velocity of 
2,378 feet per second. 

''Officers are appointed from the graduates of the Cen- 
tral Military Preparatory School and from those who have 
graduated from government or other recognized schools 
and pass an entrance examination. Paymasters are ap- 
pointed from lieutenants or sub-lieutenants who have taken 
the course in the Paymasters' School, or in addition, taken 
instruction at the College of Laws, Imperial Universities 
or higher commercial schools. Medical officers are ap- 
pointed from graduates of the Military Medical School, 
Colleges of Medicine of the Imperial Universities and grad- 
uates of foreign medical schools of equal standing. The 
Japanese government has organized a Staff College and a 
number of military training schools for its army officers, 
among which may be mentioned the Artillery and En- 
gineering School, Military Eiding School, Military Pay- 
masters' School, Military Field Artillery Shooting School 
and schools for gunners, mechanics, veterinarians, 
bandsmen, etc. 

** There are 14 generals, 32 lieutenant-generals and 88 
major-generals, besides a number of general officers of high 
rank among the heads of bureaus and departments. There 
are also 154 infantry colonels, 13 cavalry colonels, 35 field 
artillery colonels, 16 colonels of engineers, 5 train colonels 
and a corresponding number of medical and intendant of- 
ficers of the same rank. In conclusion I may add that in 
no army in the world is there more military zeal or patri- 
otism, braver and better fighters, less intoxication, fewer 
courts-martial and desertions and less regard for death 
under fire, than in the Japanese. 

[381] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

*'It is said that comparisons are odious, nevertheless it 
might be interesting to compare our naval and military- 
strength with that of Japan. The United States navy 
at present is made up of 26 battle-ships, of all classes, 10 
armored cruisers, 5 cruisers first-class, 6 cruisers second- 
class, 13 cruisers third-class, 32 torpedo-boats, 21 destroy- 
ers, 15 submarines and 3 scout cruisers. Besides these 
there are under construction or proposal 6 battleships, 13 
destroyers and 9 submarines. From the above figures it 
will be seen that we are superior at present to the Japanese 
in modern battle-ships, possessing 26 to their 15; slightly 
superior in armored and protected cruisers, 34 to 31, but 
far behind them in torpedo boats and destroyers, having 
but 53 in our navy against 104 in theirs. It will also be 
noted that the Japanese are building 45 new torpedo boats 
while we are building none. 

**The great disparity between our present military 
strength and that of Japan is worthy of special considera- 
tion in view of the frequent journalistic rumors of war. 
It is a well-known fact among military and public men 
in the United States, that our combined forces at present, 
regular and state troops, number less than 200,000 men. 
Moreover, it is well known that the United States could 
not enroll, drill, equip, and mobilize an army of 500,000 
men under six months, while Japan could put into the 
field in less than two weeks 2,000,000 well drilled and 
equipped professional soldiers, and has besides a subsi- 
dized fleet of seventy-five large commercial steamers on 
hand to transport them, while our government has none 
beyond a few transports." 

As the Major was finishing his brief account of Japan's 
military and naval services, our train reached Hiroshima, 
BO conspicuous for its activity during the recent war with 
Eussia. The town is beautifully located on the banks of 
the Ota River under the protection of high and pictur- 
esque hills. Three miles distant lies the harbor of Ujina 
on the Inland Sea, from which port most of the Japanese 

[382] 



JAPANESE ARMY AND NAVY 

army sailed to participate in the campaigns of Port Arthur 
and Manchuria. 

The principal points of interest to the visitor are the 
old castle, barracks and grounds, the noted landscape gar- 
den formerly belonging to the Asano family, the public 
park, a few temples, and the Methodist Mission College. 
The Emperor took up his residence in the old castle during 
the wars with China in 1894^5 and Russia 1904^5 in order 
to be near the scene of action. Although the city is very 
old, having been founded before the days of Kiyomori to 
whom it belonged in the twelfth century, it presents quite 
a modern appearance to-day, especially in the shopping 
district. 

During our visit to the city we had the pleasure of meet- 
ing two of the Methodist missionaries, Messrs. Moseley 
and Myers, who obtained permission for us to visit the 
military garrison and large general hospitals. The men's 
quarters were two-story buildings, very much on the 
order of many of the less modern barracks occupied by 
our troops at home. They were provided with comfortable 
cots and mattresses, good wholesome food, and the ordi- 
nary comforts of life. The men were well-clothed and ap- 
peared robust and happy. 

The officers were polite and obliging in conducting us 
through all of the principal buildings of the garrison, espe- 
cially the men's quarters, kitchens, mess rooms, guard 
house, and hospitals. The ration consists of rice, meat, 
fish, vegetables, and tea, while the officers on duty with the 
troops mess in a casino practically on European diet. We 
were escorted through the regimental infirmaries and gen- 
eral hospital, and while we found the wards neat and com- 
fortable, nothing was observed in the way of hospital ar- 
rangement or methods of caring for the sick superior to 
those employed in our army hospitals. 

Much has been written concerning the great superiority 
of the Japanese medical corps as demonstrated during the 
war with Russia, not only in the field but in their general 

[383] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

hospitals. The Japanese have no advantage over our med- 
ical service, either in professional skill or field equipment. 
In fact I doubt very much whether their medical officers 
are as well prepared professionally as ours, or provided 
with as modern and practical field equipment. I am un- 
willing to admit their superiority in that most important 
duty of the medical officer, camp and military hygiene, of 
which so much was said during their field service. 

I will agree, however, that Japanese division command- 
ers and line officers generally, as well as the rank and file, 
appreciate and apply hygienic rules more intelligently than 
the officers and men of our army. There is better disci- 
pline in the Japanese army than in ours, possibly because 
for centuries they have been taught to respect and obey 
their superiors and hence consider disobedience to officers, 
sanitary or otherwise, disloyalty to the government. It 
was for this reason that their great armies escaped those 
fatal camp diseases which will continue to decimate Ameri- 
can troops in the field as long as our officers do not enforce 
and the men will defy, the common laws of camp hygiene 
and sanitation. 

The Methodist Missionary College was founded a quarter 
of a century ago and began as a circle for the instruction 
of young Japanese women in cooking, sewing, housekeep- 
ing, and Bible study. The original site of the school was 
a small room wedged in between Buddhist temples and a 
cemetery. The college has now grown into a spacious com- 
pound with buildings sufficient to accommodate 600 pu- 
pils. Miss Gaines, a Southern woman of fine type and 
splendid character, has charge of this magnificent insti- 
tution which has proven such a God-send to the many thou- 
sands of young women of Hiroshima and surrounding 
provinces, who have become educated and Christianized 
through its influences. 

It will no doubt strike the American public as remark- 
able that the small sum of seven yen, or three and a half 
dollars, is all that Miss Gaines requires monthly from each 

[384] 



JAPANESE ARMY AND NAVY 

student for board, tuition, books, laundry, and a comfort- 
able home, besides educating one hundred pupils on the 
free list. I know of no missionary school or college in the 
Far East doing better work, or more intelligently and eco- 
nomically administered. It may be of interest to the read- 
ing public to learn that the charming little story of '^The 
Lady of the Decoration" was written while the author 
was one of the teachers there. 

Hiroshima is one of the progressive and bustling cities 
of Japan, with a population of 125,000 and superior busi- 
ness opportunities on account of its great military garrison 
and location near the Port of Ujina. In spite of these ad- 
vantages, however, it is far behind other smaller and less 
prominent towns in hotel accommodations for its foreign 
visitors. Among the hotels which make an effort to secure 
the foreign tourist trade may be mentioned the Mizoguchi, 
which caters as well to native travellers. The business 
men of the city would find it to their interest to organize 
a company for the construction of a modern hotel on Amer- 
ican lines there. There is no doubt but that many of the 
foreign visitors to Japan would spend a day or two in this 
quaint city were there suitable hotel provisions. The man- 
ager of the Mizoguchi, where we stayed, informed us that 
European dishes were becoming very popular with the bet- 
ter class of Japanese, and that many of the cafes and 
restaurants of the city were catering to the modern taste 
in the way of Amei'ican dishes. 

From the rear windows of our rooms facing the street 
along the front of the Ota River, several brilliantly lighted 
restaurants, with native banquets in progress, were pointed 
out where the menu was a la European. Owing to the in- 
creasing numbers of Japanese gentlemen who have recently 
become Epicureans of the Western school, it is rare to re- 
main long at any of the best hotels in the empire without 
noticing these functions, given either for social or political 
reasons. 

The distance from Hiroshima by rail to the station of 
25 [ 385 ] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

Miyajima requires a short hour, and the Sacred Island 
from there may be reached in fifteen minutes by means of 
a small steam ferry. Should the traveller desire to make 
the trip he may take ricksha to the Port of Ujina over a 
most delightful road and ferry from that point to the is- 
land. Miyajima, the Sacred Island, the crowning gem of 
the trinity of Japan's three marvels of beauty, is unques- 
tionably the most popular place of pilgrimage for the na- 
tives and point of interest for foreign visitors, in the 
empire. 

It may be reached either from Shimonoseki or Kobe by 
means of slow, coasting steamers, engaged in trade along 
the busy towns of the Inland Sea. Enough has been said 
in previous chapters regarding the wonders and beauties 
of that famous sea to excite a desire in the bosom of every 
lover of nature to sail through the mazes of its tortuous 
and bewildering channel. From Kobe the voyage is made 
in a night and a day, the steamer making frequent stops 
among the village-strewn shores, to discharge cargo or em- 
bark passengers. 

Approaching by sea, the Sacred Island may be discovered 
from a great distance by means of its towering pine-clad 
peak, which, like a giant sentinel, watches over the holy 
torii and temple at its base. According to accepted tra- 
dition Miyajima became famous during the reign of the 
Empress Suiko, 593 a.d., from which period the site of the 
old temple dates, although the name of the island is derived 
from the eldest daughter of Susa-no-o, one of the three 
Shinto goddesses who floated into the island ages before 
that time. 

The great temple of Miyajima enjoys a world-wide rep- 
utation on account of its construction over the sea, where 
it rests on piles. The famous red torii, the picture of 
which has become so familiar through Japanese lacquer, 
carvings, and art, stands out some distance in the water 
in front of the temple, which it seems to guard with jeal- 
ous care. So wonderfully was the artistic marine effect 

[386] 




Famous Dai-butsu of Kamakura, Japan 




Donjon, wall, and moat, Castle of Osaka, Japan 



JAPANESE ARMY AND NAVY 

studied by the genius who originally conceived its loca- 
tion, that the entire structure appears to float like a dream 
on the surface of the water at high tide. The magical 
effect is greatly enhanced during moonlit festivals, when 
the corridors, 650 feet long, are brilliantly illuminated by 
the hundreds of temple lanterns which line their facades. 
Among the treasures of the temple are many old pictures 
by famous artists. 

The traveller should not fail to visit the Hall of a Thou- 
sand Mats which stands on an eminence to the right of 
the great temple. This building was built by Hideyoshi, 
it is said, from the lumber of a single great camphor tree. 
It served as a council chamber in the sixteenth century 
during the expedition to Korea. During the war with 
China some of the soldiers hung their rice ladles on the 
walls to bring them good luck, a fashion which has been fol- 
lowed ever since by native visitors, so that to-day the in- 
terior of the building is decorated from floor to ceiling with 
this useful eating utensil. 

Those who have the time and endurance to ascend to 
the summit of the island will be rewarded with one of the 
grandest marine views in the world, for nowhere does the 
marvellous beauty of the Inland Sea show to better advan- 
tage. The great temples of former days which crowned 
the summit have gone, but the sacred fire lighted by Saint 
Kobo Daishi centuries ago continues to burn. On other 
portions of the island the government has planted heavy 
sea-fortifications, which are concealed from view and not 
accessible to foreigners. 

The beauty of the curving shores near the great temple 
has been increased by avenues of mighty cryptomerias and 
fantastic pines, lined with rows of large stone lanterns, 
where gentle deer stray at will, and with beseeching eyes, 
elicit from sympathetic strangers little cakes, sold at the 
near-by stands. In the little bay of the island close to the 
shore lies the village of about a thousand souls, who are 
engaged principally as proprietors of native inns or curio 

[387] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

shops. Unless lie guards well his pocketbook the visitor 
will soon discover, in lieu thereof, a quantity of beautiful 
lacquers, trays, carvings, and other curios, which become 
burdensome in the way of baggage. In accordance with an 
ancient religious custom, births and deaths are forbidden 
on the island and it is still customary to send expectant 
mothers away thirty days in advance of the event. While 
patients in extremis are no longer removed, the dead are 
sent at once across the strait to the mainland where the 
principal mourners are obliged to remain fifty days for 
ceremonial purification. 

The contrast between the popularity of Miyajima as a 
resort for foreigners and the number of hotels prepared 
to receive them will, no doubt, strike the traveller soon 
after arrival. Except the Mikado, which is under the ad- 
ministration of the Mikado in Kobe, there is no European 
or American hotel on the island. It is true there is a large 
number of native inns which cater to foreign travel, prom- 
inent among which may be mentioned the Iwaso. This de- 
lightful hostelry, which enticed us within its fold, lies 
some little distance from the village in a picturesque gorge 
through which courses a brisk mountain stream. Its com- 
pound contains a large casino and a number of small one- 
story cottages furnished in Japanese style. The interior 
of these dainty little apartments is finished in polished 
natural woods, and the floors covered with thick, elastic, 
native mats, which form carpet as well as bed. The re- 
mainder of the furniture consisted of low tables, six inches 
high, and several bent-wood chairs, the latter no doubt in- 
troduced out of deference to our nationality. I should 
fail in my description were I to omit the two hahemonas 
on the wall representing a temple procession and a marine 
view, and the scroll over the front door, containing four 
large gilt Japanese letters, which doubtlessly signified that 
familiar motto, oft seen in humble American abodes, * ' God 
bless our Home.'* 

A stone wall covered with red tile separated our com- 

[388] 



JAPANESE ARMY AND NAVY 

pound from the mountain-side and enclosed a beautiful 
native garden with tiny mountains, valleys, grottoes, tem- 
ple lanterns, and handsome flowering shrubs, besides ma- 
ple, cherry, and plum trees. Through the centre of the 
grounds in a deep romantic gorge ran a friendly, chatter- 
ing little brook, chanting and singing a musical lyric as it 
coursed its way to the sea, probably in commemoration 
of the three legendary goddesses who came to the island 
thousands of years ago. 

Our little cottage was attended by daintily attired 
maidens, in native costume and sandals which were left 
upon the sill whenever they entered the house. Unfortu- 
nately our arrival was celebrated by constant showers which 
kept us within doors but in no wise dampened the ardor 
of the little nesans, who made at least twenty visits during 
the day under their purple-colored umbrellas with large 
black ribs, and never came empty-handed. 

While sitting on the floor in true native fashion and 
passing the time away in drinking numberless cups of tea 
and eating the cakes and candied fruit supplied by our 
faithful attendants, the native proprietor entered. Our 
polite host had lived in America and spoke English very 
well. On learning that we were Americans from the Phil- 
ippines and connected with the army, he told us that he 
had been summoned home when war was declared against 
Russia and had participated in the siege of Port Arthur. 

''One night," he said, ''our battalion, which was lying 
in the trenches under the brow of 203 Metre Hill, was or- 
dered to drive the Russians from its crest. The attack was 
made at midnight, under the cover of darkness. We were 
driven back into the trenches after the entire battalion, ex- 
cept myself and ten men, were killed, among them my 
brother, the husband of little Fuchia who is sitting on your 
right. ' ' 

When her husband's name was mentioned the little wid- 
owed matron arose and went to the window which faced 
the north and stood as if transfixed, with eyes turned in 

[389] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

the direction of Port Arthur, where all that was mortal of 
her youthful husband lay mouldering among the unknown 
dead. When she left the room a few minutes later, her 
customary smile had vanished, but a peaceful expression 
of quiet resignation had taken its place. Little Fuchia is 
but one of the untold thousands of Japanese women whose 
husbands, fathers, brothers, and lovers were sacrificed 
in defence of home and country, like their noble sisters of 
the North and South, in America, a half-century ago. 

When we awoke the following morning, the sun was 
brightly shining and all nature smiling in glad relief. 
**A good omen of exit from Japan,'' said the Major, who 
still retained a lingering memory of Ikuta's sacred temple 
and the holy dice box. *'Ring down the curtain, the play 
is over.'* 

At 7 :30 that evening, after a five and a half hours' jour- 
ney, we reached Shimonoseki, where we found the little 
steamer waiting to transport us across the Sea of Japan 
to the ''Land of Morning Calm." 



[390] 



APPENDIX 



APPENDIX 

I KNOW of nothing more interesting to the prospective trav- 
eller than an interview with some one who has recently re- 
turned from the land he contemplates visiting. While it is true, 
that general information concerning the best routes, cost of 
transportation, hotels, etc., can be secured from an army of 
folders, Cook, Gaze, Clark, and other travelling agencies, yet 
there remain dozens of questions which can only be answered 
by those who have been there and are able to supply the nec- 
essary local coloi-ing. 

In the preparation of "An Army Officer on Leave in Japan," 
I have considered its value as a guide for those contemplating 
a journey to the " Land of the Rising Sun," and have taken 
no little trouble in the description of the important cities, moun- 
tain resorts, temples and other points of interest to the tourist. 
Fortunately for the traveller, Japan is a long and narrow 
country intersected by one main railway which stretches from 
Nagasaki in the south to Aomori in the north, and which with 
its short feeders makes it possible for the tourist to begin at 
one end, and without retracing his steps, practically to visit 
every place of interest m the Empire. 

Although much has been written of Japan since the days of 
its seclusion, which lasted until Commodore Perry's visit in 
1853-1854, the vast majority of tourists who visit the country 
leave without a sufficient knowledge of its histoiy, racial origin, 
customs, religion, art, and literature, to derive much benefit from 
their visit. In order to supply such information, I have in- 
serted a number of chapters covering these points, which should 
be carefully studied by every one who travels there. 

The Empire of Japan, excluding Formosa and the Loochoos 
on the south and Saghalien on the north extends from the thir- 
tieth to the forty-fifth degree of north latitude. It will therefore 
be seen that the countiy is by no means situated m the tropics 

[393] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

and that warm clothing is necessary. The climate is cool, invig- 
orating and bracing, and there are no nights during midsummer 
when light blankets are not required. Nagasaki, which lies in the 
southern portion of the Empire, enjoys a much warmer climate 
than Yokohama in the central north, while Nik-ko, Sendai, and 
northern Japan are as cool in summer as Maine or Canada. 

The favored seasons for visiting Japan are during April and 
May, the season of the cherry blossom and wistaria, or October 
and November when the foliage is decked in all its glory of 
red and gold. The rainy season, from June until the middle 
of October, varies, but is no more disagreeable than the cor- 
responding season in the rainy sections of the United States. 
April, the month of the cherry blossom, may offer some sur- 
prises to the tourist who visits Dai-Nippon for the first time. 
Most naturally, he would expect, with the advent of the cherry 
blossom, warmth and balmy air, while on the contrary he is 
liable to experience such raw and cold weather as to require 
the wearing of the heaviest wraps. 

The tourist will find excellent hotels in all of the large cities 
of Japan and comfortable native inns in the smaller towns. 
It must be remembered, however, that American furniture is a 
scarce article in native inns and the absence of bedsteads and 
chairs quite marked. Up until the present time the Japanese 
assume the tailor posture in sitting down and at home occupy 
mats instead of chairs. They likewise sleep on the floor, upon 
comfortable thick mats, called futons, which are kept in cup- 
boards during the day. 

Guides are essential in Japan, and every one who expects to 
enjoy and understand the temples, parks, public buildings, and 
the historical interest connected with them, should by all means 
provide himself with one. Fortunately for the tourist in Japan, 
he will find guides educated and licensed before being allowed 
to practise their profession. They are required to speak English 
and one or two other European languages. Two dollars per 
day is the charge for a party of two, with an extra twenty-five 
cents for each additional member of the party. Travellers 
touring the country will find a guide almost indispensable, espe- 
cially in visiting interior districts where English is not spoken. 
The following is a fairly complete list of the accredited hotels 
and inns in the prominent cities and resorts : 

[394] 



APPENDIX 

Aomorl: iSTakashima. 

Chuzenji: Lake Side. 

Gifu: Tamai-ya. 

Gotemba: Fuji-ya. 

Hakodate: Hakodate. 

Hakone: Hakone. 

Hiroshima: Mizoguchi, 

Imari: Tajima-ya. 

Kagoshima: Yamashita, and Okabe. 

Kamakura: Kai-hin-in. 

Kobe: Tor, Oriental, Mikado, and Grand. 

Kure: Miyoshi, and Horaisha. 

Kioto: Kioto, Miyako, and Yaami. 

Matsushima : Matsusliima. 

Miyajima: Mikado, and Owaso. 

Miyanosbita: Fujiya. 

Mizayu: Araki-ya. 

Moji: Ishida-ya, and Kawa. 

Nagasaki: Cliff House, Nagasaki, and Bellevue. 

Nagoya: Nagoya. 

Nara: Nara, and Kikusui. 

Nik-ko: Kanaya, and Nik-ko. 

Odowara: Atami. 

Osaka: Osaka. 

Sendai: Sendai, and Mutsu. 

Shimonoseki : Sanyo. 

Tokio: Imperial, Metropole, and Central. 

Yokohama : Grand, Oriental Palace Club, and Pleasanton. 

Rates at the hotels range from 5 to 8 yen per day, about 
$2.50 to $4.00. Cook sells coupons at the rate of 6 to 8 yen 
per day at most of the above hotels. Exceptions are made at 
the Grand and the Oriental Palace in Yokohama, the Imperial 
in Tokio, the Mikado at Miyajima, the Oriental and the Tor in 
Kobe. Cook's coupons are accepted in these hotels, although 
an extra yen or two may be demanded during the tourist season. 
Railroad mileage first-class in Japan is practically the same as 
in the United States. Second and third class are much cheaper. 

While Japanese money is on a gold basis, the yen, which is 
the standard, is worth about fifty cents. The fractional money 

[395] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

is the sen and rin. One hundred sen make a yen, and ten rin 
one seii. One sen therefore equals one-half cent, and one rin 
one-twentieth of a cent. The fractional money is divided into 
20 sen, 10 sen and 5 sen pieces. Besides the copper 2 sen piece, 
there are 5 rin pieces. 

There are three distinct routes to the Orient and Par East, 
namely, via the Pacific coast, the Suez Canal, and the Trans- 
Siberian Railway. To reach the Pacific coast from New York, 
Chicago and points east of the Mississippi River, the traveller 
may take any of the trans-contmental lines. The terminals of 
the six trans-continental lines are located as follows: Union 
Pacific, Santa Fe, and Southern Pacific in San Francisco; Great 
Northern and Northern Pacific in Seattle; Canadian Pacific in 
Vancouver. All of these lines have Eastern connections in New 
York, Chicago, and other large cities east of the Mississippi. 

The regailar cost of a first-class railroad ticket from New York 
and Chicago to San Francisco is respectively $79.75 and $56.90, 
while the round trip for nine months is $148.20 and $106.00. To 
Seattle from New York or Chicago, $76.90 and $56.90; round 
trip from New York to Seattle, first-class, good for nine months, 
$148.20; to Vancouver from New York and Chicago, $76.90 and 
$56.90; round trip from New York, first-class, good for nine 
months, $148.20; from Chicago, $106.00. 

The price of railroad tickets from the East to the Pacific 
coast varies according to the season of the year. Quite fre- 
quently excursion rates or season tickets to California are sold 
at exceedingly low rates. Second-class tickets cost about two- 
thirds of the rate of a first-class ticket, but do not allow the 
passenger to avail himself of Pullman sleepers. Second-class 
passengers must take tourist sleepers in case they desire sleeping 
cars. The cost of above tickets may vary from time to time. 

Cost of a lower berth on the Pullman sleeper from New York 
and Chicago to the Pacific coast is respectively $18.00 and 
$13.50. The cost of the drawing-room from New York and 
Chicago is respectively $66.00 and $46.00. 

The journey from New York to San Francisco takes 98 hours; 
to Seattle, 90 hours; to Vancouver, 98 hours. 

The cost of meals from New York or Chicago to the Pacific 
coast depends more or less on the habits of the traveller. Where 
exercise is necessarily limited, as is the case durmg long rail- 

[396] 



APPENDIX 

road and steamship journeys, travellers should be very moderate 
at table, in order to preserve good health. The breakfast should 
be limited to toast and eggs with tea or coffee, and the evening 
meal should be equally light. One full meal daily with a light 
breakfast and supper and plenty of fruit, h an ideal diet for 
travellers on long railroad or steamship trips where daily exercise 
is impossible. The judicious traveller should, therefore, find 
$2.50 ample for his daily needs on the railroad diner. 

Ocean transportation from the Pacific coast to Japan and the 
Orient: Pacific Mail and Toyo Kisen Kaisha, from San Fran- 
cisco. 

1. The fleet of the Pacific Mail consists of the Mongolia and 
Manchuria, 27,000 tons, Korea and Siberia, 18,000 tons, China, 
10,200 tons, Asia, 9,500 tons, and Persia, 9,000 tons. The first 
four are twin screw steamers, while the two latter are single 
screw. 

2. Toyo Kisen Kaisha fleet consists of the Tenyo Maru and 
Chiyo Maru, 21,000 tons, Nippon Maru and America Maru, 11,000 
tons. The two former are triple screw steamers and the two 
latter twin screws. 

Cost of ticket from San Francisco to Honolulu, one way, 
$75.00; to Yokohama, $200.00; to Kobe, $207.50; to Nagasaki, 
$225.50 ; to Shanghai, $225.50 ; to Hong Kong or Manila, $225.00. 
The passenger may go direct from Nagasaki or Hong Kong 
to Manila. Return, good for four months, from Honolulu, 
$135.00; from Yokohama, $300.00; from Kobe, $312.50; from 
Nagasaki, $334.00; from Shanghai, $337.50; from Hong Kong 
or Manila, $337.50. Add $50^00 to the ticket if extended to 
twelve months. 

Length of voyage from San Francisco to Honolulu, G days; 
to Yokohama, 17 days; Kobe, 20 days; Nagasaki, 22 days; 
Shanghai, 24 days; Hong Kong, 27 days. The journey from 
San Francisco to Manila via Nagasaki takes about 30 days, 
including the stop at Honolulu and Japanese ports. 

In the mid-Pacific lies the Hawaiian group which presents an 
attractive picture of tropical life. Tourists travelling via the 
Pacific Mail or the Toyo Kisen Kaisha lines will be allowed to 
break the journey in order to enjoy a visit in these beautiful 
islands where the climate is unexcelled for its equableness. Con- 
jure up in your mind balmy breezes^ blue skies and the most 

[397] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

beautiful sunshine, with a tropical setting, and you have an idea 
of Honolulu climate and surroimdings at all seasons of the 
year. 

You will also find here excellent hotels and many exquisite 
places to visit among the different islands of the group. To 
interest the traveller and beguile the hours away, are the beau- 
tiful beach of Waikiki, the surf bathing, the Pali, parks, aqua- 
rium of the most beautiful fish in the world, and old Diamond 
Head. Among the hotels may be mentioned the Moana, Haleiwa, 
Honolulu, Sea-Side, Alexander Young, Royal Hawaiian, and 
Pleasanton, at reasonable prices. 

Great Northern Steamship Company and the Nippon Yusen 
Kaisha from Seattle: 

3. Minnesota, 28,000 gross tonnage, belonging to the Great 
Northern Steamship Company. 

4. Fleet of the Nippon Yusen Kaisha: Indba Maru, Kama- 
kura Maru, Tamha Maru, Sado Maru, and the Aioa Maru. All 
of the vessels belonging to this line vary from 6,000 to 7,000 in 
tonnage. 

Cost of tickets from Seattle one way to Yokohama, $125.00; 
to Kobe, $127.50; to Nagasaki, $137.50; to Shanghai, $140.00; 
to Hong Kong or Manila, $150.00; return in four or twelve 
months from Manila or Hong Kong, $225.00 or $262.50; from 
Shanghai, $210.50 or $245.00; from Nagasaki, $207.50 or $240.00; 
from Kobe, $192.50 or $225.00; from Yokohama, $187.50 or 
$220.50. 

Length of voyage from Seattle to Yokohama, 17 days; to 
Kobe, 19 days; to Shanghai, 28 days; to Hong Kong, 31 days. 
Stops are made of 3 days at Yokohama, 3 days at Kobe, 2 
days at Shanghai. The Minnesota sails from Seattle to Manila, 
via Yokohama, Kobe, and Nagasaki, and makes the trip in 
about 35 days, retummg via Hong Kong, Shanghai, Nagasaki, 
Kobe, and Yokohama. All the vessels of the Nippon Yusen 
Kaisha sail to Hong Kong, via Yokohama, Kobe, and Shanghai, 
except the Sado and Kamakura, which sail only to Kobe. 

Canadian Pacific Royal Mail Steamship Company from Van- 
couver : 

5. Fleet of the Canadian Pacific : Empress of India, Empress 
of Japan, Empress of China, and Monteagle. All of these ves- 
sels sail from Vancouver to Hong Kong, via Yokohama, Kobe, 

[398] 



APPENDIX 

and Shanghai, and make connection from Hong Kong to Manila. 
Sailing time from Vancouver to Yokohama, 14 days; to Hong 
Kong, 22 days. Add 2 days from Hong Kong to Manila, mak- 
ing about 24 to 25 days for the entire journey. 

First-class ticket, one way, from Vancouver to Yokohama, 
$200.00; Kobe, $207.50; Nagasaki, $222.50; Shanghai, $225.00; 
Hong Kong, $225.00; Manila, $225.00. Round trip to Hong 
Kong or Manila and return, good for four months, $337.50, for 
twelve months, $393.75. 

The Canadian Pacific also sells a special ticket to missionaries 
and their families to Yokohama and Hong Kong, one way, for 
$133.35 and $150.00, and return, good for four months, $200.00 
and $225.00. Besides this they have an intermediate ticket to 
Yokohama and Hong Kong or Manila, one way, for $100.00 and 
$115.00. 

We will now return to the Atlantic sea-board. Among the 
steamship lines shipping passengers to the Orient or Far East 
from the United States may be mentioned the North German 
Lloyd, Cunard, and Spanish Mail. If travellers so elect, they 
may take passage to Europe on any of the many lines sailing 
from the United States and select their Oriental line after 
arrival. 

The North German Lloyd line leaves Bremen, Hamburg, Rot- 
terdam, Antwerp, Southampton, Gibraltar, Algiers, Genoa, or 
Naples. The Cunard line maintains a joint service with the 
Peninsular and Oriental Steamship Navigation Company and 
accepts passengers from Liverpool, Gibraltar, Naples, Mar- 
seilles, or Brindisi. The Spanish Mail leaves New York monthly, 
and transfers its Oriental passengers to its Eastern connections 
with lines running to Hong Kong and Nagasaki. 

Among the other Oriental steamship lines running to China 
and Japan may be mentioned the Italian line from Genoa and 
Naples, Messageries Maritimes from Marseilles to China and 
Japan, Nippon Yusen Kaisha from London to China and Japan, 
Shire line from London to China and Japan, and Glen line to 
London, China, and Japan. 

Cost of tickets by these lines to ports in China and Japan, 
and to Manila, from their initial port in Europe, one way, are 
as follows: 

North German Lloyd Line from New York or Boston, one way, 

[399] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

to Hong Kong, $374.00; Shanghai, $374.00; Kobe, $374.00; 
Yokohama, $374.00; Manila, $374.00; both ways, $641.00. 

Peninsular and Oriental Steamship Navigation Company from 
London first-class to Hong Kong, Shanghai, Kobe, and Yoko- 
hama, $315.00; return for 6 months, $470.00. 

Nippon Yusen Kaisha from London, one way, to Hong Kong, 
Shanghai, Kobe, and Yokohama, $275.00 to $300.00. 

Messageries Maritimes from London, one way, to Hong Kong, 
Shanghai, Kobe, and Yokohama, $357.50; from Marseilles to 
same ports, $336.00. 

Shire Line from London to ports in Japan, $242.00. 

Glen Line, London to China and Japan, $225.00. 

Passengers engaging passage from Boston or New York for 
the Orient and electing to travel by rail from London, Cher- 
bourg, or other cities in Europe to the Mediten-anean ports, 
where they ship for the East, must pay extra railroad fare, unless 
included m the original ticket and arranged before leaving the 
United States. 

Travellers so desiring may buy tickets on the P. & 0., via 
Bombay, and travel across India to Calcutta. From here they 
can go direct or via Rangoon to Singapore, from where the 
journey to China and Japanese ports may be continued. Tickets 
from London, via the P. & 0., one way, to Aden are $259.00; to 
Colombo, $334.00 ; to Smgapore, $362.00. 

Travellers to the Far East who desire to minimize as far as 
possible the journey by sea, may go via the Trans-Siberian Rail- 
way whose eastern terminal is in Vladivostok. The journey by 
rail from London to Vladivostok, Dalny^, or Shanghai consumes 
from 12 to 14 days. From these points steamers may be taken 
to Chinese and Japanese ports. Distance from London to Mos- 
cow, 1890 miles; to Vladivostok, 7151 miles; to Dalny, 7253 
miles; to Peking, 7593 miles; to Yokohama, 7935 miles; to Shang- 
hai, 8273 miles. Express trams via the Trans-Siberian are 
equipped with luxurious sleepmg apartments with baths, electric 
lights, fans, handsome dmers, smoking apartments with libraries, 
and excellent food. Foreigners travellmg through Russia are 
required to show passports which must be viseed before entering 
the countiy. They must also be presented to the authorities 
before leaving the countiy. Ticket from London to Vladivostok, 

[400] 



APPENDIX 

first-class, $235.73; to Peking, $239.50; to Yokohama, $260.78; 
second-class to Vladivostok, $154.75. 

From Harbin the road runs south to Dahiy, Tientsin, and 
Peking. From Peking the traveller may cross the countiy to 
Hankow and from that point take an excellent steamer to Shang- 
hai, via the Yangtse River. The Chinese government has under 
construction a railroad from Hankow to Canton and Hong 
Kong, by which means, within a few years, the traveller can 
practically reach the Far East from Europe by rail. 

Estimated cost of a four months^ trip, first-class, from New 
York to Japan, via Honolulu and return: 

Eailroad ticket from New York to San Francisco and return, 

including sleepers and meals $155.00 

Steamship ticket first-class from San Francisco to Nagasaki, 

Japan, and return 334.00 

Two and two-thirds months' board, at $100 per month 267.00 

(One and one- third months will practically be spent on 
shipboard.) 

Railroad and ricksha fares, guides, tips, etc., in Japan 75.00 

Total $831.00 

Should the traveller continue the journey to Manila, an addi- 
tional $50.00 should be added. 

Second-class or intermediate passage can be secured at one- 
third reduction on above cost. 

Estimated cost of a four months' trip, first-class, from New 
York to Japan, and return via the Suez Canal: 

Round trip steamer ticket, first-class, from New York to 

Japan and return $641.00 

One and a half month's board, at $100 per month 150.00 

Railroad and ricksha fares, guides, admissions, tips, etc 75.00 

Total $866.00 

An additional cost of $22.00 should be added in case the 
traveller goes by rail from London to Marseilles, Naples, or 
Brindisi. 

Should the traveller desire to continue the journey to Hong 
Kong or Manila, an additional $50.00 should be added. 

Second-class and intermediate passage can be secured at two- 
26 [ 401 ] 



ON LEAVE IN JAPAN 

thirds of passage money. Frequently, excellent passage can be 
secured on tramp steamers at one-half cost of regular lines. 

Estimated cost of a four months' trip, first-class, from New 
York to Japan, via the Trans- Siberian Railway: 

New York to London and return $ 150.00 

London to Yokohama and return 520.00 

Board for two and a half months at $100 per month 250.00 

Meals for 26 days on the Trans-Siberian and Manchuria 

Railways, at $1.90 per day . 49.40 

Railroad and ricksha fares, guides, admissions, tips, etc., in 

Japan 75.00 

Total $1,044.40 

Instead of returning via the Trans-Siberian Railway, the 
journey may be continued from Yokohama to San Francisco 
and New York for about $100.00 less in cost. 



THE END 



I 



INDEX 



Abella, 19. 
Adams, Will, 175, 176. 
Agriculture, Japanese, 229, 352. 
Aguinaldo, 26, 29, 44-48. 
Ainos, early inhabitants of 

Japan, 153-155, 167, 216, 228, 

231, 292. 
Ako, Lord, 203-212. 
Alejandrino, insurgent general, 

43. 
Alexieff, Count, 265. 
Amaterasu, Sun Goddess, 102, 

150-152, 228, 230, 31S, 324, 

326, 359. 
American fleet, in Manila, 53-57 ; 

in Japan, 287, 288; compared 

with Japanese, 382, 383. 
American invasion of Japan, 138- 

142. 
Amida, statue of, 362. 
Amo-no-Hashidate, 251, 253, 254. 
Ancestor-worship, 150, 340. 
Anjiro, 344. 
Antipolo, shrine of, 42; crime in 

village of, 42, 43. 
Ardyat, Mount, 43. 
Architecture, Japanese, 155, 305, 

306. 
Arima, 125. 
Arita, 129. 
Army and Navy Club, Manila, 

3, 4, 12, 31. 



Army, Japanese, 267, 275, 276, 
379-381, 384. 

Arnold, Sir Edwin, 300. 

Arsenal, Naval, at Kure, 375-377. 

Aryan race, Japanese belonging 
to, 153. 

Asakusa Park, 196, 198, 

Ashikagas, 104, 237, 242, 243, 
310. 

Atlantic Transportation Com- 
pany, 34. 

Atsula, temple of, 153. 

Augusti, General, 51, 55. 

Augustine, Order of Saint, see 
Friars, Spanish. 

Ayala Bridge, 22, 28. 

Ayuntamiento, 14, 15. 

Baseball in Japan, 191. 

Bataan Mountains, 17. 

Benten, the goddess, 171, 189; 

temple of, 189. 
Biac-nabato, treaty of, 26, 48, 49. 
Bible, Japanese, 151, 348. 
Big Rock, Sir, see Ronin, the 

Forty-seven. 
Bilibid prison, 24, 27, 45, 58. 
Binondo, church and convent of, 

3. 
Biwa, Lake, 317. 
Blanco, General, 12, 45, 46. 
Bluffs, the, Yokohama, 159. 



[403] 



INDEX 



Bonifacio, Andres, 25. 

Boxer Insurrection, in China, 

247, 263, 264. 
Bridge of Spain, Manila, 4, 21, 

22. 
Bridge-work, American, in Phil- 
ippines, 21. 
British, in Philippines, 16; in 

Orient, 165. 
Bronze Horse Temple, see 0-suwa. 
Brooks, Bishop Phillips, 331. 
Bro^^^l, Dr. Nathan, 347, 348. 
Brown, Dr. S. R., 347. 
Bubonic plague, in Manila, 26, 

27. 
Buddha, life and teachings of, 

354-356; statue of, see Dai- 

butsu. 
Buddhism in Japan, 109-116, 161, 

162, 169, 187, 214, 217-219, 

231, 253, 260, 303, 310, 329, 

331, 344, 351-360. 
Buddhist sects, 359, 360. 
Burgos, the priest, 19, 22. 
Burial, in the United States, 80; 

in England, 80; at sea, 91, 92; 

in Japan, 229, 324, 325. 
Bushido, principles of, 131, 294, 

358. 
Byodo-in, temple of, 322. 

Caloooan, 41 ; battle at, 44, 45. 
Camaya, see Mariveles. 
Camphor supply of Japan, 87. 
Canadian Pacific Royal Mail 

Steamship Company, 398, 

399. 
Carabao, 4, 32. 

Carabao, Order of the, 32-34. 
Carromato, 3, 4, 37. 



Catholicism in Japan, 102, 103, 

106, 107, 161, 346, 348. 
Cavite, 17, 22, 43, 44, 47-49, 53, 

55, 58. 
Chair, non-use of, 257. 
Chamberlain, Professor, 112, 150, 

198, 295. 
Chang-chung-fu, 284. 
Cha-no-yu, see Tea Ceremonies. 
Cherry Blossom, Festival of the, 

304, 305. 
"Chicago of Japan" (Osaka), 

333. 
Chikusen, prince of, 111; lords 

of, 134; daimio of, 218. 
Chinese, in Philippines, 4, 17, 23, 

42, 52; in Formosa, 83, 84; in 

Korea, 105; in Japan, 155, 156, 

227, 232, 244, 247-250, 263. 
Chino- Japanese War, 137, 266. 
Chion-in monastery, 312. 
Cholera, Asiatic, in Manila, 26, 

27, 68, 69, 81, 82. 
Christening ceremony, Japanese, 

364. 
Christianity, in Philippines, 11; 

in Japan, 111, 114-117, 124, 

125, 162, 344. 
Chuai, Emperor, 231. 
Chung Ho, Emperor, 83. 
Chuzenji, Lake, 221, 225. 
Cliff House, Nagasaki, 101. 
Columbian road, of Manila, 20. 
Concubinage, system of, 197. 
Confucius, 205, 206, 352, 358, 

359, 373. 
Constabulary, Insular, 3, 5. 
Corregidor, Island of, 41, 52, 55- 

62, %^, 73, 81. 
Cosme de Torres, 109. 



[404] 



INDEX 



Courbet, Admiral, 85. 
Court life, Japanese, 232, 233. 
Crime in Manila, 43. 
Cryptomerias, 214, 218, 225, 293, 

367. 
Ciilion, island of, 24. 
Cunard line, 399. 
Curry and rice, 6, 178, 179. 
Custom-house, Japanese, 100. 

Dai-butsu, 167, 168, 240, 312, 

328. 
Daimios, 244, 245, 294. 
Daiya-gawa, 224. 
Dancing, Japanese, 318-320, 365, 

366. 
Dan-no-ura, naval engagement 

near, 142, 327, 362. 
Dasmarinas, Governor, 17. 
Dazaifu, the capital of Kyushu, 

134. 
Dengyo Daishi, Buddhist saint, 

323. 
Deshima, island of, 99. 
Dewey, Admiral, 50-56, 59. 
Diaz, Bartholomew, 108. 
Division Hospital, Manila, 21. 
Dockyards, see Arsenal, Japanese 

naval. 
Dougherty wagon, 37. 
Dreams, Hall of, 330. 
Drought in Philippines, 40, 41. 
Dutch, in Formosa, 84, 85; in 

Japan, 114, 244. 
Dysuki, 174. 

EcO DE FlLIPINAS, 22. 
Ecumenical council of Cashmere, 

360. 
Eitel, Dr., 360. 



Enko Daishi, 312. 
Enoshima, peninsula of, 170; 
island of, 171; dragon of, 189. 
^ta people, the, 207, 245. 

Faience, manufacture of, 135. 

Fatalism, among Filipinos, 27. 

Fenshuiling, engagement at, 279. 

"Filibusterismo," 18. 

Filipinitis, 79. 

Fillmore, President, 175, 246. 

Fireflies, 324. 

Fires, 306. 

Food, Japanese, 155. 

Formosa, 82-88, 137, 249. 

Fraile, the rock, 41, 52, 56, 67. 

Franciscans, see Friars, Spanish. 

French, in Formosa, 85. 

Friars, Spanish, 13, 14, 22, 25, 

27, 43, 45-49, 100, 107, 109, 

111, 112, 176, 196, 314, 345, 

346. 
Fude-sute-matsu, the pine tree, 

173. 
Fugi-sen-gen, the goddess, 258. 
Fuji, the, 257-259. 
Fujiwara family, 233-235, 326. 
Fujiya Hotel, Myanoshita, 255. 
Fujiyama, 166, 171, 254, 295. 
Fukuoka, the castle to\\Ti, 134. 
Fukuyama, castle of, 369. 
Funston, General, 43. 
Furniture, Japanese, 177, 257, 

307, 394. 

Gaines, Miss, 384, 385. 
Galleons, Spanish, 31. 
Garambi lighthouse, 82. 
Geisha girls, see Dancing, Japa- 
nese. 



[405] 



INDEX 



Gemmyo, Empress, 150. 

Gensho, Empress, 150. 

Geysers, of Kojigoku, 124. 

Ginkaku-ji, 310. 

Glen line, 399, 400. 

Goa, colony of, 109; college of, 
3, 109, 344. 

Go-Daigo, Emperor, 3G2. 

"Golden Pavilion," the, 310, 311. 

Gomez, 19, 22. 

Gonara, the Mikado, 104. 

Goro, 259, 260. 

Go-Shirakawa, 234, 235. 

Goto, Baron Shimpei, 82. 

Grand Hotel, Yokohama, 158, 
159, 166. 

Grant, General, 217. 

Great Northern Steamship Com- 
pany, 398. 

Gregory, Pope, 112, 113. 

Griffis, Mr., 154, 352, 353. 

Guides, Japanese, for travelling, 
394. 

Haciiiman, 102, 16S, 231, 343. 

Hakata, 135. 

Hakone, lake and island of, 256, 

259, 261, 262. 
Hara-kiri, 93, 105, 108, 134, 204, 

210, 212, 239, 293, 362, 363, 

373, 374. 
Harpists, Spanish, 57-59. 
Harquebuses, 109. 
Hawaiian Islands, 397, 398. 
Hemmi Jinroda, 133. 
Hepburn, Dr. J. C, 346, 347. 
Hiaksai, King, 356. 
Hibiya Park, 191. 
Hidari Jingori, 219, 308. 
Hidetada, 187, 189, 297. 



Hideyori, 106-108, 113, 301, 334. 
Hideyoshi, 104-106, 111-113, 129, 

193, 243, 254, 255, 301, 308, 

311, 322, 333, 345, 367, 387. 
Higashi Hong-wanji, temple of, 

197, 309, 334. 
Higo, Prince, 111; province of, 

143; rebellion, 247. 
Himeji, castle at, 366, 367. 
Hiroshige, 293. 

Hiroshima, 376, 382, 383, 385. 
Hitomaro, the poet, 366. 
Hodzu Rapids, 314-316. 
Hojo, family of, 167, 168, 170, 

235-237, 239-242, 254, 255. 
Hoko-ji, 312. 
Ilokusai, 258, 293. 
Hong Kong chair, 74, 75. 
Honnoji, Battle of, 198. 
Hooker, 59, 60. 
Horin Goseda, 198, 199. 
Horyuji, temple of, 329. 
Hospitals, Japanese, 383, 384. 
Hotels, list of, 394, 395. 
Hyogo, the ancient capital, 361, 

362. 



Iemitsu, 115, 187, 194, 196, 219, 

221, 243, 244. 
leyasu, the great shogun, 24, 25, 

104, 106-108, 112-115, 168, 

176, 187-189, 193, 198, 218- 

221, 243, 263, 296, 297, 301, 

334, 346, 354. 
Igorots, 325. 

Ikuta Shinto temple, 364, 365. 
Imperial guards, Japanese, 380, 

381. 
Imperial naval college of Japan, 

376, 378. 

[406] 



INDEX 



Imperial palace, 305. 

Imperial railway of Japan, 3G9. 

Imus, battle of, 26, 29, 46, 47. 

India, sea-route to, 108. 

Inland Sea, 61, 126, 144-147, 367, 

373, 3g6-388, 
Insurrection, Philippine, of 1872, 

44; of 1896, 32, 44-49, 80. 
Ise, shrine and temple of, 153, 

230, 231, 298, 318, 340, 359. 
Ishikake-yama, 254. 
Isla de Mindanao^ Spanish 

transport 55. 
Ito, Admiral, 248, 372. 
Iwaso, 388. 
Izamagi, 151, 253. 
Izanagi, 151, 253. 
Izume, 152. 

Japan, ceramic art in, 106, 129, 
298, 299; railroads of, 126, 
127, 182, 183, 214, 215, 222, 
289, 393, 395; feudalism in, 
129-134, 143, 233, 234, 238- 
247, 294; Europeanization of, 
130, 131; revolution of 1867- 
8 in, 131, 333, 334, 344; mili- 
tary posts of, 147; mythology 
of, 150^153, 171, 227; educa- 
tion in, 194, 195, 222, 223; 
parliament of, 194; history of, 
227-237; population of, 244; 
navy of, 266, 267, 270, 271, 
377-380; fishing industry in, 
300; temples of, 306, 309-313, 
316, 327, 357, 358; music of, 
319; missionaries in 346-350; 
English language in, 368, 369; 
military schools of, 381, 382; 
geographical position of, 393, 



394; climate of, 394; hotels 
of, 394, 395; guides to, 394; 
money of, 395, 396; transpor- 
tation of, 396-402. 

Japanese, in Formosa, 85-87; 
origin of, 149; language of, 
154-156; patriotism of, 192, 
193, 195, 223, 285, 343, 344; 
habits of, 285. 

Jasmine, 87. 

Jean Ferdinand, 109. 

Jesuits, Order of the, see Friars, 
Spanish. 

Jimmu Tenno, 102, 149, 153, 
228-238, 324, 339, 356. 

Jingo Kogo, 102, 231. 

Jinricksha, 119, 289. 

Jizo, image of, 260. 

Jodo sect, 187, 312, 359. 

Juan, Christian convert, 109. 

Juro, 259, 260. 

Kaemper, Dr., 154. 

Kago, 257, 293. 

Kagoshima, 108-111. 

Kagura, dance, 220, 327, 344. 

Kamakura, the ancient capital, 

166, 167, 240. 
Kanaya Hotel, Nik-ko, 216. 
Kanazawa, village and peony 

garden of, 173, 174. 
Kano Tanyu, the artist, 309. 
Karasaki, pine tree at, 316, 317. 
Kashiwabara, 153, 324. 
Kasuga-no-miya, 326, 327. 
Katipunan Society, 25; discovery 

of, 44. 
Katsura Summer Palace, 311. 
Kawakwan, General, 193. 
Kawamura, Admiral, 132, 133. 



[407] 



INDEX 



Kawasaki, 183, 184. 

Kegon Fall, 224. 

Keiko, 230, 231. 

Keitai Tenno, 231. 

Keller, General, 277. 

Kelung, railroad from, 82, 85, 86, 
g8. 

Kin-ka-kuji, monastery of, 243. 

Kin-kwa-zan, the Sacred Island 
of, 252. 

Kioto, 142, 202, 289, 302-313. 

Kira, Sir, see Ronin, the Forty- 
seven. 

Kiroshima, 183. 

Kitasato, 194. 

Kiyomori, 142, 143, 235, 236, 238, 
■ 239, 362. 

Kobe, 148, 337, 361, 363-369. 

Kobo Daishi, Saint, 183, 359. 

Kobori Eushu, 311. 

Kodama, Viscount, 82. 

Kojiki, the sacred book, 149-151, 
228, 300. 

Koma-ga-take, 260. 

Komura, Baron, 265, 284. 

Korea, 105, 106, 129, 247-250, 
284. 

Koreans, invasions of, 155. 

Kosme, Father, 111. 

Koxinga, 85. 

Kozu, 254, 295. 

Kubi-zuka, 107, 301. 

Kublai Khan, 170, 241. 

Kudan shrine, 192, 340. 

Kufer, Admiral, 163. 

Kumamoto, garrison of, 132. 

Kunosan, 218, 296. 

Kurino, the Japanese minister, 
266, 267. 

Kuroda family, the, 134, 135. 



Kuroki, General, 275-283. 
Kuropatkin, General, 277-285. 
Kusunoki Masashige, 242, 362. 
Kwammu, the sovereign, 303, 312. 
Kwan-chang-tsu, 284. 
Kwannon, 122, 168, 198, 313, 328, 

335. 
Kwannon-no-taki, waterfall of, 

122. 
Ky-o-zo, 219. 
Kyushu, 102, 111-114, 130, 143, 

229-231, 240. 

"Lady of the Decoration," 385. 

La Loma, church of, 41. 

Lamsdorff, Count, 265, 266. 

Landor, J. Savage, 68. 

Lastoa, Colonel, 55. 

Lee, General Fitz Hugh, 59. 

Lee, Robert E., 134. 

Legaspi, Adelantado Miguel de, 

11, 13, 14, 18, 353. 
Leprosy, in islands, 24; in 

Manila, 26. 
Liaotung, Peninsula of, 249, 266, 

284. 
Liaoyang, battle at, 277, 279- 

281. 
Liga de los Filipinos, 25. 
Li Hung Chang, 137, 249. 
Li Kamon-no-kami, 139, 246. 
Limahong, Chinese invader, 15. 
Loochoo Islands, 89, 247. 
Loochoon, colony of, 83. 
Luneta, 16-19, 56. 

Macao, colony of, 108. 
Magellan, 2, 4, 20. 
Makaroflf, Admiral, 272. 



[408] 



INDEX 



Malacanan, 27. 

Malay race, 27, 34, 153, 156, 288, 

289, 368. 
Malecon Driveway, 16, 17. 
Manchuria, 264-266, 284. 
Manchurian railway, 264. 
Manila, harbor of, 3, 17, 61, 62; 

custom house of, 3, 8'; hotels 

of, 5; geographical position of, 

11; Botanical Garden of, 4, 21; 

founders of, 13; fall of, 15, 45, 

46; roads and parks of, 16; 

walls of, 17; sanitary condition 

of, 26, 27; bay of, 40-44, 60, 

73. 
Manila Bay, Battle of, 50-55. 
Manilat, 11. 

Manuscripts, Japanese, 297. 
"Margarine Sisters," 285, 286. 
Mariano, Padre, 22, 289. 
Mariano Gil, Padre, 26, 44. 
Mariveles, 61, 62, 64-68, 73. 
Massage, Japanese, 123, 124. 
Matsushima, 251, 252. 
McDougal, Captain David, 140. 
"Memorials of Japan," 176. 
Messageries Maritimes, 125, 126, 

399, 400. 
Methodist Mission College, in 

Japan, 383, 384. 
Michizane, 234. 
Minamotos, 142, 143, 233, 234, 

239, 362. 
Mindanao, 11. 
Mindoro, 68. 
Mio-no-matsubara, 296. 
"Missionary's Call, The," Dr. 

Nathan Brown, quoted, 347. 
Missionaries, rates to, 399. 
Mitsunari, 106, 107. 



Miyajima, the Sacred Island, 

251, 254, 386-388. 
Miyako hotel, Kioto, 303. 
Mochihito, Prince, 322. 
Moji, 121, 122, 125, 135. 
Momoyama, battle at, 321, 322. 
Money, Japanese, 395. 
Mongolian race, 153, 155, 156, 

368. 
Monja, 41, 56, 67. 
Monto sect, 198. 
Montojo, Admiral, 4gf, 51, 52, 54, 

55. 
Moslem faith, in Philippines, 11. 
Motienling Pass, 277. 
Motoori, 343. 
Mukden, 282. 

Munemori, 142, 143, 239, 362. 
Murray's Hand-Book, 185, 295. 
Music, Japanese, 319. 
Musuhito, 193. 
Mutsu-no-kami, 252. 
Myanoshita, 255, 259. 

Nabeshima, daimio, 129. 
Nabeshima family, 129, 130. 
Nagasaki, 31, 92, 97-102, 112, 

120-125. 
Nagoya, 297, 298. 
Nan Shan, battle of, 278. 
Nanko, temple of, 362. 
Nara, 318, 325, 326, 331. 
Neale, Colonel, 139. 
Negritos, 84. 
Nigishi Hong-wanji, 334. 
Ni-gwatsu-do, 327, 328. 
Nihongi, the sacred book, 149- 

151, 228. 
Nijo Castle, 305, 307. 
Nik-ko, 187, 213-221, 296. 



[409] 



INDEX 



Nik-ko Hotel, Nik-ko, 216. 
Ninigi, 153, 228, 229, 297, 326. 
Ninigi-no-Mikoto, 153. 
Nifio de Tabora, Governor Juan, 

42. 
Nintoku, 231. 
Nippon Yusen Kaisha, 125, 398- 

400. 
Nishi-Hongwanji, 309. 
Nitta Yoshisada, 168, 242. 
Nobunaga, Ota, 104-106, 111, 112, 

193, 243, 307, 316, 345, 35S, 

367. 
Nodzu, General, 276-283. 
Nogi, General, 276-283. 
Nogouchi, 194. 

"Noli me tangere," Rizal, 18. 
Norddeutcher Lloyd line, 125, 

399. 
Nozelado, 25, 45, 51. 
Nunobiki waterfalls, 364, 365. 

Obaku-san, temple of, 322. 

O'Brien, Mr., 185, 186. 

Odawara Conference, 255. 

Ogawa, General, 278. 

Oiso, 295. 

Ojigoku, 262. 

Ojin, see Haehiman. 

Okayama, 369. 

Oku, General, 275-283. 

Ola Dokwan, 193. 

Omura Hyobu Tayu, 111, 193. 

Ono Garoeman, 169. 

Oolong tea, 87. 

Oranges, in Japan, 230. 

Oriental Cable Company, 60. 

Oriente Hotel, Manila, 3, 5, 24. 

Osaka, 108, 229, 331-334. 

Oshima, General, 248. 



0-suwa, the temple of, 120. 



Pacific mail line, 397. 

Pacific, voyage across, 2. 

Painting, Japanese, 307. 

Pampanga, 43. 

Pandacan, cemetery of, 28. 

Parliament, Japanese, 194. 

Paterno, Don Pedro A., 48. 

Patriotism of Japanese, 192, 
193, 195, 223, 285, 343, 344. 

Patriot's Shrine, see Shohonsha. 

Paulo de Santa Fe, 109. 

Peninsular and Oriental Steam- 
ship Navigation Company, 
399, 400. 

Perry, Commodore, 114, 130, 138, 
139, 141, 161, 162, 172, 173, 
175, 185, 244, 245, 263, 307, 
346, 348. 

Persecution of Christians, see 
Christianity in Japan. 

Pescadores Islands, 249. 

Philippine Commission, 8. 

Philippines, imports and exports 
of, 8; conditions in, 9, 10; 
forests of, 9, 21; products of, 
9; agricultural industries of, 
10; arrival of Spaniards in, 
11; climate of, 12, 40, 41. 

Phoenix Hall, 322, 323. 

Piedras lighthouse, 81, 82. 

Pinto, Mendez, 108, 109. 

"Plain of the Barrier," battle of, 
107. 

Plains of Heaven, 173. 

Polavieja, 12, 18, 45, 48. 

Porcelain, see Japan, ceramic art 
in. 



[410] 



INDEX 



Port Arthur, 248, 249, 265-267, 

272, 278, 281-284, 340, 389. 
Portsmouth, Treaty of, 274, 284. 
Portuguese, in Formosa, 83, 84; 

in Japan, 99, 100, 102, 113, 

345. 
Printing Press, Civil Government, 

20. 
Prostitution, 199, 200. 
Protestant sects in Japan, 110. 

Quarantine station, in Manila, 
62, 63, 69-72; in Japan, 92-95. 

Race Club, Tokio, 184. 
Railroads, Japanese, 126, 127, 

182, 183, 214, 215, 222, 289, 

393, 395. 
Railway Nationalization Law, 

126. 
Refrigerating Plant, Manila, 21. 
Richardson, C. L., 162, 163, 183. 
Ricksha, see Jinricksha. 
Rinnoji, 218. 

Rivera, General Primo de, 48, 49. 
Riyobu-Buddhism, 343, 359, 360. 
Rizal, Jose, 12, 18, 25, 46, 48; 

widow of, 29. 
**Robe of Feathers," 296. 
Rodjestvensky Admiral, 273, 

274, 283, 340. 
Ronin, the Forty-seven, 200-212. 
Roosevelt, President, 283. 
Rosen, Baron, 283, 284. 
Roxas, 19. 
Russo-Japanese War, 263-286. 

Saburo, Psince, 131, 132, 162, 

163, 183. 
Sacred Bridge, Nik-ko, 217, 222. 



Saga, 129. 

Saghalien, island of, 266. 

Saigo Takamori, 131, 134. 

Saikokuji temple, 369. 

St. Andrew, Church of, 190. 

Sakaki, 341. 

8ak4, 121, 178, 209, 285, 319, 

320, 336, 338, 344, 364. 
Saleedo, Juan, 13. 
Salvation Army, in Japan, 350. 
Sama, Lord, 203, 204. 
Sampans, 97, 98. 
Samurai, 132, 245, 294. 
San Andrew, Church of, 15. 
San Juan del Monte, 22, 26, 45. 
San Lazaro, hospital of, 24. 
Sanetomo, 168. 
Sanjusan-gendo Temple, Kioto, 

122. 
Santa Cruz Bridge, 21. 
Santiago, Fortress of, 15, 16, 26, 

45, 55. 
Santo Domingo, Church of, 15. 
Santo Tomas, college and museum 

of, 15. 
Sanyo Hotel, Shimonoseki, 136. 
Satow, Sir Ernest, 359, 360. 
Satsuma, Prince of, 109, 130, 131, 

163, 246. 
Satsuma, Princess of, 110. 
Satsuma Rebellion, 130-134, 193, 

247. 
Saussalitch, General, 277. 
Seifukuji, temple of, 363. 
Sekigahara, 107, 168, 301. 
Sengakuji, 200. 
Seto, potteries of, 298, 299. 
Sha-ho, Battle of the, 281. 
Shamanism, 339. 
Shiba Park, 186-190. 



[411] 



INDEX 



Shiga, 194. 

Shimabara, Rebellion of, 115, 

116; peninsula of, 123, 125. 
Shim-baba Park, 130. 
Shimo Gamo Temple, 311. 
Shimonoseki, 55, 136-145, 240, 

249, 266. 
Shintoism, 102, 110, 112, 150, 

187, 205, 217, 218, 228, 230, 

232, 233, 297, 303, 331, 338- 

344, 359. 
Shire line, 399, 400. 
Shodo Shonin, Saint, 217. 
Shogunate, 234, 235, 293. 
Shoshonsha shrine, 192. 
Shoshu, 137, 140. 
Shrines, 42. 

Silk industry, 135, 300. 
"Silver Pavilion," The, 310. 
Simon de Anda, Don, monument 

to, 16. 
Smallpox, in Manila, 26, 27. 
Soga, 356, 357. 
Sorinto, 218. 

Spanish-American War, 50-56. 
Spanish fleet, 53. 
Spanish, in Philippines, 11; in 

Formosa, 84, 85. 
Spanish Mail line, 399. 
Starck, Admiral, 271. 
Steamship lines, 125, 397-400. 
Stefanoff, Captain, 268-270. 
Stossel, General, 278-283. 
Subashira, 258. 
Suiko, Empress, 198, 232, 329, 

343, 386. 
Suinin, 229. 

Sujin, Emperor, 229, 230. 
Suketsune, Kudo, 260. 
Susa-no-o, 151, 152, 230, 386. 



Suspension Bridge, Manila, 21. 
Swords, wearing of, 132. 

Tadashima, 99. 
Taft, William H., 8f. 
Taikosama, 105. 

Tai-kyokuden palace, 312. 

Tailors, Chinese, 160, 161; Yoko- 
hama, 161. 

Tairas, the, 142, 143, 233-237, 
239, 327, 362. 

Taishi, Shotuku, 232, 329-331, 
334, 357. 

Takahira, Mr., 284. 

Takida Shingen, 296. 

Takeo, 129. 

Tanabe Sakura, 317. 

Tea, 291, 323, 324, 371. 

Tea ceremonies, 243, 299, 310. 

Temmu, Emperor, 150. 

Temples of Japan, 306, 309-313, 
316, 327, 357, 358. 

Tenjen, temple dedicated to, 134. 

Tennis in Japan, 191. 

Thelisz, battle of, 279. 

Thousand Mats, Hall of a, 387. 

Tickets to Japan, cost of, 396, 
397. 

Tientsin, 264. 

Ting, Admiral, 248, 249. 

Tips, 290. 

Todaiji, temple of, 327, 328. 

Togo, Admiral, 230, 248, 267, 
270-274, 340. 

To-go-shu, 219. 

Tokaido Highway, 183, 254, 255, 
258, 289, 292-294. 

Tokihara, the Kwambaku, 234. 

Tokio, 182-185, 188, 193, 197, 
202, 303. 



[412] 



I 



INDEX 

Tokugawa shoguns, 98, 138, 197, Witte, Count, 283, 284. 



240, 244. 
Tomucheng, engagement at, 279. 
Tondo, 11, 22, 25, 26, 44. 
Tonosawa, 255. 
Topacio, Senor, 49. 
"Torments of the Fosse," 115. 
Toyo Kisen Kaisha, 125, 397. 
Transportation, to Japan, 396- 

402. 
Transports, army, 30-32, 34-37. 
Trans-Siberian Railway, 400-402. 
Trent, Council of, 19. 

Ubago, 262. 

Ueno Park of Tokio, 134, 196. 

University of Japan, 347. 

University of Kioto, 195. 

University of Tokio, 194. 

Uraga, 175. 

Urdaneta, Andr6s de, 18. 

Urdaneta, Fray, 13, 18, 353. 

Uriu, Admiral, 267-270. 

Utomaro, 353. 

Uzume, 318. 

Veles, Padre, 65-68. 
Verbeck, G. F., 347. 
Verestehagen, death of, 272. 
Vladivostok, 273. 

Walled City, Manila, 11, 17. 
Webster, Daniel, 173. 
Weyler, General, 12. 
Wilkinson, Clifford, 366. 



Women, Filipino, 28, 29; Japa- 
nese, 299, 300, 313, 349, 370, 
371. 

Wood, Colonel 0. E., 267. 

Xavier, Saint Francis, 89, 109- 
111, 161, 313, 344. 

Yaami hotel, Kioto, -303. "' 

Ya-ku-shi, 219. 

Yamato-dake, 230. 

Yang, Emperor, 83. 

Yedo, 168, 193, 202, 213, 292, 340. 

"Yedo Blossom," 306. 

Yokohama, 158-166, 288. 

Yokosuka, 172-175; Marine Bi- 
ological Laboratory of, 172; 
dockyards of, 172-175. 

Yokushi, 330. 

Yomei, Emperor, 329. 

Yorimasa, 322. 

Yoritomo, 100, 142, 143, 167, 169, 
198, 235-237, 239, 240, 254, 
295, 326-328, 361-363. 

Yoshinaka, 142, 239. 

Yoshitomo, 235, 236. 

Yoshitsune, 143, 235, 239, 240, 
326. 

Yoshiwara, palace of, 199, 200. 

Young Men's Christian Associa- 
tion, in Japan, 350. 

Zamora, Father, 19, 22. 
Zojoji, temple of, 186, 187, 189. 



THE END 



H 289 85 1 









''■^^c^< 






• » 







L " 






-OS^^ 






^<^ •"■•• <<r ^^ *«•'« ^0 '=v *-'^- ^ 












^0-n^ 



IP *3 












• « s 



\ ^ Deacidified using the Bookkeeper process. 
^ * ' Neutralizing agent: Magnesium Oxide 

, » Treatment Date: April 2003 



• <;^^^^ I 4 O • *pR^^L " Treatment Date: April 2003 

^ ^f^lM^S ^ ^c^ '^'^y^^y PreservationTechnologies 

^ *' ff / 1 ' -^ O^ ♦ O N O "^ -^0 ^ WORLD LEADER IN PAPER PRESERVATION 

\^ <y ^^'^^x, O *0 f 111 Thomson Park Drive 

^ -^ ^ij^^^^^^'' "^^ A*^ *■ C^anberr^y Township, PA 16066 

^r. <i» •VV' * Sm^ * ^ Cy '^ A (724)'779-21 11 











**\'°' 















v« 




4 O 



.0" '^^^ **'rr/-* ^-^^ 




iPv!, 




















HECKMAN 

BINDERY INC. 







/^^s^ 



APR 85 



^W N. MANCHESTER, 
•>*-^ INDIANA 46962 







"^3^T— "^5r3r 



/.^^' «'. 







